75 cruiser

One of the fan motors on my 98 3.2TL needs replacing. both motors are different, so which one do I buy? From what I have found, one is a standard cooling fan, one is an AC fan. But, which is which? Many of the online stores, and some auto part stores sell both, but I don't know which one to ask for. The one that is failing, is the one that continues to run, too long I might add, after the engine is turned off.
I suppose I could go to the local Acura dealer and look through their parts book for the engine compartment layout.
ALSO, if anyone has replaced the fan motor themselves, is it better to buy the complete assembly (motor, fan and shroud) or is it better to just buy the motor, assuming no special tools are needed.
Can anyone advise? Thanks.

01tl4tl

You have a sensor relay prob not a fan prob
If it runs its good
The temp sensor is probably bad or has a bad ground connection

75 cruiser

No, I DO have a bad fan Motor. The length of time it runs after the engine shuts off, is another issue. Thanks anyway.

bpjadhav

The fan on the passenger side is the radiator fan and the one on the driver side is the AC/Condensor fan. I had to replace the motor on my radiator fan as well.
You can find the part number here: http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

75 cruiser

Thanks BPJADHAV.

I bought the motor today. NAPA sells it for ~$80. Acura's price is over $200.

bpjadhav

No problem 75 cruiser, glad I could help.
I had bought the fan from a local import cars parts store called M&D. It cost me around 80-100 bucks as well. I didn't see any point in buying the motor from Acura.
It's normal for the radiator fan to stay on after you have switched the engine off. Apparently it's a "feature".

teekay3001

if the fan didnt stay on the engine would be super hot, after its cooled down to a safe temp then it'll cut off, i was nervous as well when i first got mine because most cars if the fan stays running it'll kill your battery but not here though, its the way the car is made i presume

75 cruiser

Well, regrettably, after pulling the Condenser shroud and motor assembly out of the car (which was a pain) and having to drill out the motor mounting screws (they use small phillips head screws, which deform too easilly), I found that the condenser fan motor from NAPA (their P/N 6551770) does not fit into the mounting I/dia of the shroud. It is about .1" too large. Also the wiring connections are wrong.
According to ACURA the 4 blade fan (drivers side) is the condenser fan. And according to NAPA, the 655-1770 is a condenser fan replacement part. NOT SO.

75 cruiser

After returning the motor to NAPA (Autoparts, not the valley), I was going to buy an Acura replacement part for $200+ but it was not in stock anywhere locally. On a chance, I tried Auto Zone. They had an equivalent for $45 which fitted the shroud. Got the motor installed this evening. Seems to work fine, and saved over $150.
Advise for Gen 1, 3.2TL owners. Don't buy the NAPA part. It doesn't fit.

bpjadhav

Buying the motor from Acura would be a waste. I didn't have any problems with the part I bought from the local store. It's good that you saved 150 bucks by going with Autozone.

dan jacobsen

My car overheated this weekend as I was sitting in traffic for 45 minutes or so on the way to the LSU game, in 93 deg heat. This is the first time I have ever seen the temp be anything other than one temp. I turned off the AC at the last minute, as the temp was climbing. Anyway, it looks like all my coolant boiled out of the radiator thru the reservoir because one of the fans was not working. The passenger side fan does not seem to start by itself, unless I give it a "shove" with my finger. Then it runs. Would any of ya'll mind looking to see if the part you were looking at was the "cooling fan assembly" ($201 at Delray) or just the "cooling fan" (which looks like the motor to me, $31 at Delray). THANKS

dan jacobsen

I replaced the fan on the passenger side of the engine bay. Here is an easy check that I did to verify that the old motor was bad. I took the electrical connector apart, verified that I had 12 volts with the engine running & AC on, then I checked the "motor half" of the connector; the motor leads were "open". After replacing the motor, I pulled the old one apart & found that the brushes are probably just worn down. But for $31, I wouldn't fool around with just replacing brushes. The motor I used was from AutoZone, their part # PM2810. It fit almost perfectly. I had to drill out its mounting bracket holes just a bit to fit the mounting screws, but everything else was pretty easy. I hope this helps somebody!