GT4: Official Thread
#3001
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umm
#3002
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I found a little guide on maximizing B-Spec (gtplanet.net). The key is the variety of cars and tracks. Doing one track or set of tracks with the same car will only net you so many points. Doing those same tracks with every car (there are 5 "types") will maximize your points and increase your overall B-Spec rating quickly. Use the Family Cup to quickly run B-Spec races with little pee-wee cars to fill out that area of your portfolio. You do NOT need to win to accumulate B-Spec points.
I'll see if I dig up a link...
I'll see if I dig up a link...
#3004
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Doom878
Please do. I always thought you had to win like with A-Spec.
Srika, forget N-Ring. Atlanta Speedway Normal.
Srika, forget N-Ring. Atlanta Speedway Normal.
#3006
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A member at GTPlanet named TigJackson posted this about 6 weeks ago. He got a lot of it from some other site. Here's a link to his post.
I copied the following information from an interesting thread found at GameFaqs. Threads on GameFaqs can only go to 500 posts, then they become locked, and are soon are purged. I thought that I should post some of it here for the sake of posterity.
Most of the following information was translated from a Japanese website and presented by two GameFaqs users: itazura_da (gs) and toga1976. Please note that the author of the Japanese site presents these ideas as theories and doesn't claim to have definitive answers...
1. Maxing out points (overall, machine, course, battle) can be accomplished using just one car from each of four "classes". These classes are referred to as A, B, C ,and D and seem to correspond, respectively, to normal, tuned, race, and special cars. The classes are further divided into A1, A2, B1, B2, C1, C2, D1, and D2. I'm not sure how these "classes" are determined or confirmed (that point doesn't seem to get much attention on the Japanese site), but the author has a table showing the classes to which each car belongs. Tuning a car can change its class designation. Setting opposing car strength to -2 through -10 not only permits managing the race for gradual/steady passing (ensuring high battle points), it also allows you to conduct much of the race in "slow down" or "cruise" mode, which in turn ensures high course points by keeping your driver on the track.
2. The author provides tables showing which cars, tunings, tracks, opponent levels, etc. he used in order to max out B-spec scores using only family cup races ( http://www.geocities.jp/j8ba7yrg/gt4/7_10000.html ). There are two tables -- the first details the first 7000 points (100 machine, 70 course, 70 battle), and the second details the remaining 3000 points.
3. Achieving the first 7000 points can be done using only four cars on the Nurburgring. However, the cars need to be tuned in various ways to cover all of the A-D "subclasses". The cars used by the author of the site are listed below (my apologies if these model names do not correspond exactly with the English designations...Im just translating without referring to an English language list):
A-1: Volkswagen Lupo 1.4 '02, default;
A-2: Mazda Roadster 1800 RS (NB) '04, default
B-1: Mazda Roadster 1800 RS (NB) '04, default + supercharger
B-2: Mazda Roadster 1800 RS (NB) '04, default + stage 3 turbo
C-1: Toyota RSC Rally Raid '02, default
C-2: Toyota RSC Rally Raid '02, default + medium racing tires
D-1: Nissan Fairlady Z Concept LM Race Car '02, default
D-2: Nissan Fairlady Z Concept LM Race Car '02, default + stage 3 turbo
As Toga rightly clarified earlier, the author of the Japanese page still considers all of this a work in progress, and IS NOT trying to say that these are the ONLY cars that can be used, or that this is the only combination or order of races. He has concluded, however, that better results are obtained if you start racing with the A-1 cars and work your way up to the D-2 cars when running the Nurburgring races.
He also proposes some more detailed theories about point breakdowns. For instance, he speculates on this page ( http://www.geocities.jp/j8ba7yrg/gt4/10000_3.html ) , based on his test results, that the initial 7000 points are broken down as follows: 586 points for class A-1 cars, 737 points for class A-2, 901 points for class B-1, 1077 each for classes B-2 and C-1, 983 points for class C-2, 878 points for class D-1, and 761 points for class D-2. The remaining 3000 points, he speculates, are divided evenly (750 points each) between car classes A, B, C and D. He further suggests that the first 7000 points impact machine skill, course skill, and battle skill, and that attaining 7000 points should yield machine, course, and battle skills of 100, 70 and 70, respectively. The final 3,000 points impact only course and battle skills.
4. The remaining 3000 points require races at the remaining tracks using the same four cars, with no need to alter tunings to achieve different "subclasses". For the final 3000 points, the author uses:
A: VW Lupo 1.4 '02, default + medium racing tires
B: Mazda Roadster 1800 RS (NB) '04, default + supercharger + medium racing tires
C: Toyota RSC Rally Raid Car '02, default + medium racing tires
D: Nissan Fairlady Z Concept LM Race Car '02, default
5. As for strategy, the key point is this: you need to focus on battle points, the other points will come just by running the tracks with the different cars. For each of the "final 3000 point" races, it should be possible to obtain approximately 13 B-SPEC points, of which (the author speculates) 4 are battle points and 9 are course points. Actually, on another page, he speculates in more detail that the final 3000 points are broken down into 750 points per car category (A-D), spread out over 58 courses, such that each course yields 12.93103... points. He speculates that course points are doled out at 8.620 points per track and battle points at 4.310 points per track. Gaining the full battle points for each race is the big obstactle, and the author did some testing and concluded that the key is to NOT PASS THE OPPOSITION TOO QUICKLY or finish the race with TOO BIG A LEAD.
6. That last point requires its own bullet! The author did some testing and found that passing too many opposing cars in roughly the first 12 seconds of a race can reduce battle points awarded. So he adopted a strategy of downgrading the opponent level to a point where the B-Spec driver can be paced in "slow down" mode to lag back and not pass until at least about 13 seconds into the race (or at Nurburging, before the first hairpin), then not run away from the competition. As a result, in all of the races shown in his tables, the opposition skill level has been set at between -2 and -10. He points out that strategies for pacing will vary depending upon whether the race has a grid or rolling start. and will also be impacted by the length of the course. But in any case, the key is to try to hold back, then pass at least a few cars, finishing either in first or in some other position without a large gap between B-Spec driver and opposing cars.
7. Using the above approach, the author reached 10,000 100, 100, 100 in only 267 races (and actually WINNING all of the family cups, for good measure, although winning them is not necessary).
Only time will tell who the first GTPlaneter to get to 10,000/100/100/100 will be.
Most of the following information was translated from a Japanese website and presented by two GameFaqs users: itazura_da (gs) and toga1976. Please note that the author of the Japanese site presents these ideas as theories and doesn't claim to have definitive answers...
1. Maxing out points (overall, machine, course, battle) can be accomplished using just one car from each of four "classes". These classes are referred to as A, B, C ,and D and seem to correspond, respectively, to normal, tuned, race, and special cars. The classes are further divided into A1, A2, B1, B2, C1, C2, D1, and D2. I'm not sure how these "classes" are determined or confirmed (that point doesn't seem to get much attention on the Japanese site), but the author has a table showing the classes to which each car belongs. Tuning a car can change its class designation. Setting opposing car strength to -2 through -10 not only permits managing the race for gradual/steady passing (ensuring high battle points), it also allows you to conduct much of the race in "slow down" or "cruise" mode, which in turn ensures high course points by keeping your driver on the track.
2. The author provides tables showing which cars, tunings, tracks, opponent levels, etc. he used in order to max out B-spec scores using only family cup races ( http://www.geocities.jp/j8ba7yrg/gt4/7_10000.html ). There are two tables -- the first details the first 7000 points (100 machine, 70 course, 70 battle), and the second details the remaining 3000 points.
3. Achieving the first 7000 points can be done using only four cars on the Nurburgring. However, the cars need to be tuned in various ways to cover all of the A-D "subclasses". The cars used by the author of the site are listed below (my apologies if these model names do not correspond exactly with the English designations...Im just translating without referring to an English language list):
A-1: Volkswagen Lupo 1.4 '02, default;
A-2: Mazda Roadster 1800 RS (NB) '04, default
B-1: Mazda Roadster 1800 RS (NB) '04, default + supercharger
B-2: Mazda Roadster 1800 RS (NB) '04, default + stage 3 turbo
C-1: Toyota RSC Rally Raid '02, default
C-2: Toyota RSC Rally Raid '02, default + medium racing tires
D-1: Nissan Fairlady Z Concept LM Race Car '02, default
D-2: Nissan Fairlady Z Concept LM Race Car '02, default + stage 3 turbo
As Toga rightly clarified earlier, the author of the Japanese page still considers all of this a work in progress, and IS NOT trying to say that these are the ONLY cars that can be used, or that this is the only combination or order of races. He has concluded, however, that better results are obtained if you start racing with the A-1 cars and work your way up to the D-2 cars when running the Nurburgring races.
He also proposes some more detailed theories about point breakdowns. For instance, he speculates on this page ( http://www.geocities.jp/j8ba7yrg/gt4/10000_3.html ) , based on his test results, that the initial 7000 points are broken down as follows: 586 points for class A-1 cars, 737 points for class A-2, 901 points for class B-1, 1077 each for classes B-2 and C-1, 983 points for class C-2, 878 points for class D-1, and 761 points for class D-2. The remaining 3000 points, he speculates, are divided evenly (750 points each) between car classes A, B, C and D. He further suggests that the first 7000 points impact machine skill, course skill, and battle skill, and that attaining 7000 points should yield machine, course, and battle skills of 100, 70 and 70, respectively. The final 3,000 points impact only course and battle skills.
4. The remaining 3000 points require races at the remaining tracks using the same four cars, with no need to alter tunings to achieve different "subclasses". For the final 3000 points, the author uses:
A: VW Lupo 1.4 '02, default + medium racing tires
B: Mazda Roadster 1800 RS (NB) '04, default + supercharger + medium racing tires
C: Toyota RSC Rally Raid Car '02, default + medium racing tires
D: Nissan Fairlady Z Concept LM Race Car '02, default
5. As for strategy, the key point is this: you need to focus on battle points, the other points will come just by running the tracks with the different cars. For each of the "final 3000 point" races, it should be possible to obtain approximately 13 B-SPEC points, of which (the author speculates) 4 are battle points and 9 are course points. Actually, on another page, he speculates in more detail that the final 3000 points are broken down into 750 points per car category (A-D), spread out over 58 courses, such that each course yields 12.93103... points. He speculates that course points are doled out at 8.620 points per track and battle points at 4.310 points per track. Gaining the full battle points for each race is the big obstactle, and the author did some testing and concluded that the key is to NOT PASS THE OPPOSITION TOO QUICKLY or finish the race with TOO BIG A LEAD.
6. That last point requires its own bullet! The author did some testing and found that passing too many opposing cars in roughly the first 12 seconds of a race can reduce battle points awarded. So he adopted a strategy of downgrading the opponent level to a point where the B-Spec driver can be paced in "slow down" mode to lag back and not pass until at least about 13 seconds into the race (or at Nurburging, before the first hairpin), then not run away from the competition. As a result, in all of the races shown in his tables, the opposition skill level has been set at between -2 and -10. He points out that strategies for pacing will vary depending upon whether the race has a grid or rolling start. and will also be impacted by the length of the course. But in any case, the key is to try to hold back, then pass at least a few cars, finishing either in first or in some other position without a large gap between B-Spec driver and opposing cars.
7. Using the above approach, the author reached 10,000 100, 100, 100 in only 267 races (and actually WINNING all of the family cups, for good measure, although winning them is not necessary).
Only time will tell who the first GTPlaneter to get to 10,000/100/100/100 will be.
#3007
wow damn you guys are hardcore
im having a hard time beating the professional tuning races....i have some fast ass cars but i keep fucking losing, even in bspec, its getting frustrating
im having a hard time beating the professional tuning races....i have some fast ass cars but i keep fucking losing, even in bspec, its getting frustrating
#3008
Lola
Originally Posted by Liftedoff420
wow damn you guys are hardcore
im having a hard time beating the professional tuning races....i have some fast ass cars but i keep fucking losing, even in bspec, its getting frustrating
im having a hard time beating the professional tuning races....i have some fast ass cars but i keep fucking losing, even in bspec, its getting frustrating
Tell us more details about the race and your car. I have no idea what troubles do you have right now.
#3009
Masshole
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Originally Posted by Liftedoff420
wow damn you guys are hardcore
im having a hard time beating the professional tuning races....i have some fast ass cars but i keep fucking losing, even in bspec, its getting frustrating
im having a hard time beating the professional tuning races....i have some fast ass cars but i keep fucking losing, even in bspec, its getting frustrating
#3012
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Originally Posted by Doom878
pit the right amount of times.
#3013
Team Owner
Yeah it'll do it for you but what I mean is sometime you have the wrong tires on or drive too aggressively and it'll make you pit more frequently than the computer. That means that the computer will eventually catch up to you and most likely pass you during a pit. Some cars have such a huge lead though it won't matter how often you pit because you'll still stay ahead.
#3014
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Thanks for the help Doom. I did 3 endurance races last night:
- El Capitan = Minolta
- New York = Dodge Charger Super Bee
- Laguna Seca = I forget what I won
- El Capitan = Minolta
- New York = Dodge Charger Super Bee
- Laguna Seca = I forget what I won
#3016
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Originally Posted by Doom878
3 in one night. Damn.
Now take that Minolta and do the 24h of N-Ring to get the F1.
Now take that Minolta and do the 24h of N-Ring to get the F1.
The 3 races were done on Bspec at 3x so it only took about 45-60 minutes to do each race. Although, add it up and that's about 3 hours...
#3017
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I got last night. I did the Grand Valley endurance race, expecting to win the Sauber. Instead I got that old ass boat!
(I had the wrong copy of the prize car list)
Also got the NSX-R LM Race Car and the Calsonic Skyline.
(I had the wrong copy of the prize car list)
Also got the NSX-R LM Race Car and the Calsonic Skyline.
#3019
Team Owner
Okay after further review the F1 owns all. I did Suzuka and Motegi and the car just owned everyone. Meanwhile the Sauber and R8 struggled to maintain 3rd. It was obvious anyways but the Sauber will win on tracks like Test Course where it's wide open and it'll utilize it's top end. I also ran 1/4 mile's and the F1 ran the fastest of the 3. My 787B with a Stage 4 turbo ran the fastest overall but I'm sure the Sauber will surpass with the same upgrade.
The handling of the F1 is superior to all cars too and I would definitely say it's the most superior overall. I would challenge any car with it. It does get a little twitchy but the handling of it make up for it's attitude.
The handling of the F1 is superior to all cars too and I would definitely say it's the most superior overall. I would challenge any car with it. It does get a little twitchy but the handling of it make up for it's attitude.
#3020
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Doom878
Okay after further review the F1 owns all. I did Suzuka and Motegi and the car just owned everyone. Meanwhile the Sauber and R8 struggled to maintain 3rd. It was obvious anyways but the Sauber will win on tracks like Test Course where it's wide open and it'll utilize it's top end. I also ran 1/4 mile's and the F1 ran the fastest of the 3. My 787B with a Stage 4 turbo ran the fastest overall but I'm sure the Sauber will surpass with the same upgrade.
The handling of the F1 is superior to all cars too and I would definitely say it's the most superior overall. I would challenge any car with it. It does get a little twitchy but the handling of it make up for it's attitude.
The handling of the F1 is superior to all cars too and I would definitely say it's the most superior overall. I would challenge any car with it. It does get a little twitchy but the handling of it make up for it's attitude.
#3021
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
ok so... tonight... I bought the DFP.
and I umm.. don't like it. How long did it take you all to get used to it and start running good laps with it? I had to turn off the 900 degree mode almost ASAP because I have wood floor and the table I secured the wheel to was moving ALL OVER the place while turning in the tight turns of Tsukuba... I could not run any competitive times at all, thereof. Any advice guys?
and I umm.. don't like it. How long did it take you all to get used to it and start running good laps with it? I had to turn off the 900 degree mode almost ASAP because I have wood floor and the table I secured the wheel to was moving ALL OVER the place while turning in the tight turns of Tsukuba... I could not run any competitive times at all, thereof. Any advice guys?
#3023
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
fool!!!! do you have one? what am I missing here. I've played other wheels before (such as the MOMO Force) and they've been easy to just pick up and start playing... but not this one.. hmm. maybe I need to set it up at my computer desk...
#3025
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
ahh well. I don't think I'm gonna have one either. I think I'm gonna return it.
#3026
Instructor
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WHA?! WHY?!
I dislike the 900 degree mode also but run in it 200 (or whatever) it rocks. It does take getting used to, but once you do you have so much fine control over your turning radius and your throttle and brake you can really tweak your times down.
I dislike the 900 degree mode also but run in it 200 (or whatever) it rocks. It does take getting used to, but once you do you have so much fine control over your turning radius and your throttle and brake you can really tweak your times down.
#3027
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Kighter
WHA?! WHY?!
I dislike the 900 degree mode also but run in it 200 (or whatever) it rocks. It does take getting used to, but once you do you have so much fine control over your turning radius and your throttle and brake you can really tweak your times down.
I dislike the 900 degree mode also but run in it 200 (or whatever) it rocks. It does take getting used to, but once you do you have so much fine control over your turning radius and your throttle and brake you can really tweak your times down.
The wheel itself is a fine unit and I can see how it would be great if I had a proper setup for it, like one of those race seat harness contraptions... but as it stands, I don't have that.
I thought I could just get the wheel, bring it home, and start running amazing times compared to the controller. I had the time trial thread in mind. Admittedly I didn't spend a LOT of time with it but it took me considerable effort to get a fast clean lap in - the adjustment process weighing in - and the time I ran was about 4-5 seconds off of the best I ran with the controller.. go figure. I know I could get better with the wheel if I kept playing with it, but it's almost like, I don't want to get better with it...
#3028
Big Block go VROOOM!
Srika, I saw several mentions in one of the GTR forums of people using the DFP with that game on the PC and liking the combo a lot. I have no idea what they were using for software/drivers but apparently it works. Just something you might want to look into before hauling your DFP back to the store.
#3029
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Billiam
Srika, I saw several mentions in one of the GTR forums of people using the DFP with that game on the PC and liking the combo a lot. I have no idea what they were using for software/drivers but apparently it works. Just something you might want to look into before hauling your DFP back to the store.
I was quite stupefied that it would be compatible with PC also - I mean, it doesn't make any sense. There is NO indication of this on the box. I mean, The damn thing would SELL MORE if they put that on the box!!!
#3030
Team Owner
Holy crap anyone try the missions after the slipstreams. I could've sworn they weren't there before. You sit for like 30 seconds or 2 minutes or whatever and like 5 cars get a long ass lead on you. Then when you go you have to pass them before that lap ends. That's going to be the last thing I do if I want 100%. It's too damn hard.
#3031
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
yeah.. I tried the one at Nurburgring with the SLR. Had to wait like 5 minutes or something crazy before starting. It was insane. I just tried it once... yeah. Not a chance.
#3032
Team Owner
I think some cars are haunted. Anyone try the Opel Speedster one-make race yet? That car is haunted. If I'm in 4th and going above 120mph and let off the gas, the car keeps going without decelerating. Maybe if you cut the wheel will it stop. Also if you're in 3rd and hit a turn while downshifting into 2nd, the car doesn't slow down. It takes the turn as if it's holding the gas down. A few posts back I explained how I was using the F1 a lot. Take it to the Practice courses into that one open one with random cones. Ghuyaken or something. Get the car's speed up to like 60mph, then leave it in 1st and hold the wheel to the left or the right. The car will keep going at that speed until you hit a wall or upshift to 2nd. Anyone else notice that on these 2 cars?
Oh and back to the Opel, if anyone wants easy A-Spec points buy this car. In its one-make race you have to go strongest turbo, tranny, full power, etc. and RACE tires. Do not use sports tires as you'll be all over. Weird that a non-race car has no limit on tires. Well I bought R4's and was getting 185 point victories. With S2's I would've gotten 200 but couldn't get traction for shit.
Oh and back to the Opel, if anyone wants easy A-Spec points buy this car. In its one-make race you have to go strongest turbo, tranny, full power, etc. and RACE tires. Do not use sports tires as you'll be all over. Weird that a non-race car has no limit on tires. Well I bought R4's and was getting 185 point victories. With S2's I would've gotten 200 but couldn't get traction for shit.
#3033
Lola
Originally Posted by Doom878
I think some cars are haunted. Anyone try the Opel Speedster one-make race yet? That car is haunted. If I'm in 4th and going above 120mph and let off the gas, the car keeps going without decelerating. Maybe if you cut the wheel will it stop. Also if you're in 3rd and hit a turn while downshifting into 2nd, the car doesn't slow down. It takes the turn as if it's holding the gas down. A few posts back I explained how I was using the F1 a lot. Take it to the Practice courses into that one open one with random cones. Ghuyaken or something. Get the car's speed up to like 60mph, then leave it in 1st and hold the wheel to the left or the right. The car will keep going at that speed until you hit a wall or upshift to 2nd. Anyone else notice that on these 2 cars?
Oh and back to the Opel, if anyone wants easy A-Spec points buy this car. In its one-make race you have to go strongest turbo, tranny, full power, etc. and RACE tires. Do not use sports tires as you'll be all over. Weird that a non-race car has no limit on tires. Well I bought R4's and was getting 185 point victories. With S2's I would've gotten 200 but couldn't get traction for shit.
Oh and back to the Opel, if anyone wants easy A-Spec points buy this car. In its one-make race you have to go strongest turbo, tranny, full power, etc. and RACE tires. Do not use sports tires as you'll be all over. Weird that a non-race car has no limit on tires. Well I bought R4's and was getting 185 point victories. With S2's I would've gotten 200 but couldn't get traction for shit.
#3034
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
ok guys... I've decided I can't continue using the controller for GT4 - esp with the time trial challenges. My hands are just aching too much from continued and prolonged hard racing with the controller. It's so bad that I think I have no choice but to use the wheel. I just have to get used to it. Do you guys use full 900 degree mode? I tried 200 degree mode, but I feel like its too restricting. any pointers and/or tips on how to maximize the performance out of this thing? I tried the wheel again today, and it feels quite good, contrary to my prior review... still need to sort out the setup issue... I think I need a rug or something lol.
#3036
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
yeah I have used for instance the MOMO Force with GT3 with great results - absolutely loved it. With this wheel though, in 200 degree mode, it just feels kinda weird. It takes an unnatural amount of effort to keep the car going straight - it's not bad at all with 900 degree mode - feels like normal driving... but the turns are killer, until I get used to it at least....
srika
trying the wheel with GTR
srika
trying the wheel with GTR
#3037
Lola
Hey srika I just read the first post of this thread...(the index)
The review on page 17 should be the "NTSC-J Traditional Chinese version" not PAL. I also got review #2 on page 23 as well.
EDITED: review #2 on page 24 not 23.
The review on page 17 should be the "NTSC-J Traditional Chinese version" not PAL. I also got review #2 on page 23 as well.
EDITED: review #2 on page 24 not 23.
#3038
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by MSZ
Hey srika I just read the first post of this thread...(the index)
The review on page 17 should be the "NTSC-J Traditional Chinese version" not PAL. I also got review #2 on page 23 as well.
EDITED: review #2 on page 24 not 23.
The review on page 17 should be the "NTSC-J Traditional Chinese version" not PAL. I also got review #2 on page 23 as well.
EDITED: review #2 on page 24 not 23.
#3040
Lola
Originally Posted by Doom878
Did you have the same problem I had with it?