Aman

Well, noticed that the third and right brake lights were out last night, so i decided to get them fixed today.

Before I leave, I notice that they're all working. Take it for a spin around the garage, come back to my spot, third and right lights are out again.

1) figured they're loose, so I try pushing in the right brake light, but it won't budge. However...I noticed that there was some electrical tape around the bulb holder thingy, right where the wires run into it. I take it apart to see 5 or 6 wires stripped and crudely twisted around each other, and then crammed into an opening, which is where the electrical tape is wrapped around it. Left bulb's holder thingy has the same wires, sleeved and running directly in, no twisting or electrical tape at all. I try my best to redo the right bulb, but it still only works when it feels like it. Also noticed that the taillight itself is cracked.

2) another (more serious) problem is that I think my car might have been in an accident that i did not know about it. While I was working on the taillights, i decided to take a gander around the rear end. Left rear quarter panel's paint is off by a bit. Also, under the trunk liner, there is supposed to be a sort of cap protecting the suspension, as well as some insulation. There was no cap or insulatoin on the left side, but one on the right side there was both, leading me to believe that our car had been in an accident before we bought it.

We had bought it from a mechanic who was a longtime friend (dad used to share a taxi with him), who told us it was in pristine condition, not even a scratch. Obviously he was wrong.

3) Left headlight is also pointed wayyy to far up, during night driving I can't see the light's reflection on the road, and when that car comes up to you, the left light seems much brighter than the right one. This (I assume) was just poor repair after an accident that my mother had (T-bone at about 25 km/h, grille, hood, left fender and light, bumper replaced). Said grille is also cracked.

4) And now car stalls at idles, and shifts are made high in rev range and are accompanied by a thunk. Burnt clutch?

Well if anyone is good with 3nd gen J-bodies, I could use help with 1 and 3. And is there anything I can do about 2 and 4? We bought the car assuming it was accident-free 8 years ago for 2700 with 160k.

/rant.

HI OFECR

Worked in the car biz for 8 years my advice.

Trade it for a 90s civic or accord.

Aman

you mean the Civic that I can't mod without being look at as a ricer and the accord which will require a rebuilt engine? lol

dallison

sell it

TommySalami

You really think you'll look better in a modded cavalier?

Street Spirit

Sorry...I'm a little confused. Are you saying you have concerns about the car being in an accident prior to when you purchased it, and you've had it for 8 years now? Or is this the new-used car that you just purchased (I know you were looking for one)?

Crazy Bimmer

1. Fix the wiring better so it makes a good connection.

3. Adjust the headlight so its not pointing up.

Sell it like you had planned. https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=#post10033966

03aspec

there we go, now its fixed

HI OFECR

Engine rebuild ? In what parallel universe?

The F22's are bullet proof.

Id drive an 80's civic with a rod knocking and 2 bad axles before id ever roll a caviler.

Ricer lol who the fuck care's at least it will run.

Aman

In time.

good point.


It's still gonna be a while until this car is sold (assuming anyone is desperate enough to buy it), and yeah, it's the same car we still have. I'm just curious as to whether there is anything I should be concerned about now that I know it has been in an accident.

1. I tried already, but the wires have been mutilated. It's imposible.

2. Still trying to figure out how to do that. No idea how the shop got it like that.

3. We're going to wait until we decide on a new car.

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

There is a lot that you should be concerned with if it was in an accident. I would try to fix the minor glitches and move on.

Aman

I've seen plenty of ads for early 90s Accords that have had a rebuilt engine around the 150km mark. My dad used to have an 82 Accord way back when, and that never had anything wrong with it.

Doing my best.

stright-(paint)balling

now in remarks to the F22. that motor you could fire a missle into that motor and it would still run.( a figure of speech)
i got 320,000 everything orginal, on my F22 and i still drive it to work at 70-75 mph on interstate and it does completely fine. doesn't use oil, doesn't stall, does completely fine. grant it not a looker but it's paid for does okay on gas. as long as she runs i don't care i'm gonna run it until she blows up.

Aman

the F22 is the 4-cylinder on early-90s accords?

stright-(paint)balling

correct 94-97 4 popper Accords.
the EXs like my old ass beater Accord were V-TEC

zguy95135

Or the first gen 4 cylinder CL's. The F22 really is a tank, 225,000 miles on my old CL and didn't burn a drop of oil which is more then I can say for my TSX...

03aspec

the h22a's were decent too

stright-(paint)balling

they are a good motor but a pricey swap cause every ricer dropping H22s into their CRXs and Integras

vas25tl

+1 everyone was putting them in.

Although I did drive a 98 civic hatch with a H22 in there, I didn't know there was a motor swap. Pulled out and gave it some juice in 1st gear the thing started spinning out. I pulled over right away and opened up the hood.

Aman

I thought you were talking about the '90-'93 4 bangers.

TacoBellSauce

y not buy a 3rd or 4th gen maxima?
you can get em as cheap as $2500-3000

HI OFECR

3rd gen Maxima's had shitty trans if you are going for a max id go for a later model.

Aman

Reliability's a pretty big thing for us right now.

What're your takes on an '03 Accord 4banger, EX-L auto, for 9500?

and...uhhh....152k...

stright-(paint)balling

152 k nothing on an Accord i got 330 k on my 94 Accord and everything orginal on it. been wrecked 2 times(both times other driver was at fault) but i still drive it to work every day. You can't go wrong with an Accord. their fairly good on insurance. good on gas(you'll get on the highway 30-32 and in the city probably about 25 guessing but i don't drive that much in the city.) you can get 4 people in pretty easy. i'd say you can get 10-12 more useful years out of that Accord easy.

Aman

yeah...I really liked that Accord. drove amazing for a family sedan. My mom's reluctant to pay that much for a 152k car however, no matter how reliable it is.

Gfaze

Keep looking, you can find it cheaper. $9500 is too much IMO.

Aman

remember it's CDN though. I've looked around, and i can't find another 7th gen for under 10grand, or even 12 for that matter.

Took it for another, longer test drive today, and in general I liked everything about it. plenty quick, fuel economy is just as good as the Cav's, great to drive. two things that are bothering me are the driver's side mirror, which i can't get to work, and the radio which needs to have a code entered in. I'll probably see if i can get those things fixed before paying.

Brakes are something I have to get used to. Linear, but very light. the brakes on our current car have about an inch and a half of pedal travel until they grip, and when they do, they grip hard.

Anything I should look for problem-wise with this car? I'm going through acord forums left and right, but anywhere i can get advice is great. Thanks in advance.

TS_eXpeed

If you haven't learned your lesson yet, Carfax that shit.

HI OFECR

"Anything I should look for problem-wise with this car?"


Rust on the quarters, blown shocks, weak power window motors .

Alignment make sure you get it up to highway speeds.

Aman

ouch.

got it up to 80km/h today, it seemed ok.

HI OFECR

That stuff is just some of the few and far between ticks on the accord usually due to misuse or maltreatment of the vehicle, well except for the rust.

But if the car feels solid to you then i wouldn't worrie about it.

Change the oil/air-filter/spark plugs and you will have a nice lil car

Aman

seemed pretty solid for any Accord, 152k or not. Think we're going to pull the trigger, just a couple of minor negotiations to be done. Anyone know how much it would cost for Honda to enter the radio code? Radio seems to have quit, needs a code to be input. Knowing Honda, i doubt it'll come cheap.

Street Spirit

You can enter the radio code for free. All you need is the code itself, which the current owner should have, and if he doesn't, have him call the dealer to get it. They must've just had the battery unhooked/replaced for it to need the security code entered. Actually, you should ask him what work has just been done that the radio needs the code (out of curiosity)...usually it's not the radio itself, but the battery being unplugged.

Aman

I'll be sure to ask him when we next meet. The car's actually being sold to us through the same mechanic this thread started out about. Maybe it had some maintenance done there? We were told that everything was done at Honda though, so I'll be sure to clear that up.

Driver's power mirror isn't working either, so that might be the disconnected battery as well. I'll do my best to make sure what happened when we come there next time, which should be this saturday.

I know that high-mileage cars usually have much less power and fuel economy numbers than similar cars with less mileage. Does anyone know whether or not the losses are smaller if the car has been mostly highway-driven?

Street Spirit

So you went on a rant (this thread) about how you feel a mechanic screwed you over and didn't tell you about an accident that your current car was involved with prior to purchase...and now you want to buy from him again?

SwervinCL

I had an f23 with 70k on it. Had I kept the car it would have needed a rebuilt motor. Not all f series motors are bullet proof

Aman

The owner is also friends with the mechanic, so the mechanic let him park his car in front of his lot with a for sale sign. I expressed interest in the car, and he tossed us the keys. The mechanic is simply acting as the middleman.

Aman

what model years was the F23?

SwervinCL

98

Its the same engine as the F22, but with an extra 5hp.

Aman

agh...ALMOST sealed the deal on the Accord today.

battery went kaput today though, and now we have to do a sefety checkup, and all the blahblahs of buying a car. hopefully we'l get everything done by the end of tomorrow.