Skipping gears whilst upshifting
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Skipping gears whilst upshifting
So far, I haven't been doing that because I heard it's bad for the synchros.
But if it is, why exactly is it bad?
There are lots of times when I find myself at 6500 RPM in 2nd gear and just want to skip 3rd and go straight to 4th. But I still dilegently go through all the gears. I did a search and all I came up with was people saying that doing it was bad, some said it wasn't, and the debate was left open.
So, I reiterate, WHY is it bad to skip gears on the upshift when you're at high RPM (or any other time) excluding the times when you're low enough to lug the engine?
But if it is, why exactly is it bad?
There are lots of times when I find myself at 6500 RPM in 2nd gear and just want to skip 3rd and go straight to 4th. But I still dilegently go through all the gears. I did a search and all I came up with was people saying that doing it was bad, some said it wasn't, and the debate was left open.
So, I reiterate, WHY is it bad to skip gears on the upshift when you're at high RPM (or any other time) excluding the times when you're low enough to lug the engine?
There is no danger to your transmission or clutch assembly by skipping gears when upshifting IF you allow for the increased gear ratio span. If you don't do this, you'll just add addition shock and wear to the components (clutch and synchronizers specifically).
What this means is there is a gear ratio difference between all of the gears. When shifting from second to third gear (something which would be more natural and normal), you know how much time to wait for the shift and clutch engagement because it will be intuitive. But if you skip third gear and go directly to fourth (or even fifth), you must allow more time for the engine RPMs to match the wheel and gear speed of that gear. You will know if you've done this correctly because when you shift and engage the clutch, it will be seemless and smooth. If not, you will have made a mistake in your shift.
What this means is there is a gear ratio difference between all of the gears. When shifting from second to third gear (something which would be more natural and normal), you know how much time to wait for the shift and clutch engagement because it will be intuitive. But if you skip third gear and go directly to fourth (or even fifth), you must allow more time for the engine RPMs to match the wheel and gear speed of that gear. You will know if you've done this correctly because when you shift and engage the clutch, it will be seemless and smooth. If not, you will have made a mistake in your shift.
Oh, as for wear to the synchros, remember what kind of a job they do. If you have spun up the engine and tranny to 6500 RPM, then begin a shift from second to fourth, the synchronizers have to slow the gears down considerably before the shift can be made. The synchro cones are rubbing hard against one another to do this, so that's where the addtional wear comes in to play.
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For a clutchless shift hit the gas and wait till you're about 3500 or 4k rpm (depending on the gear). Once you're here start moving the gear shift in the direction you want to go ie. from 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, etc. You'll feel the resistance and won't be able to actually move into the next gear but then let go of the gas and she'll go into the next gear.
I wouldn't try this whilst downshifting. I do this on both my car and bike a lot.
I wouldn't try this whilst downshifting. I do this on both my car and bike a lot.
Originally Posted by CLpower
I do it all day long, hell there is a built in 1 -> 4 skip shift on my car, but normally I go 1 > 3 >5
or 2>4>6
or 2>4>6
I skip gears as well. Perhaps not all the time though.
I've skipped from 4<->6, 3<->5 both up and downshifting. And when it comes to the downshifting I'm careful about what the RPM's are. I'm not about to throw it in gear and put undue stress on the tranny.
Also I've got 130K+ miles on my '03 CL-S and still on my first Clutch. :knockonwood:
I've skipped from 4<->6, 3<->5 both up and downshifting. And when it comes to the downshifting I'm careful about what the RPM's are. I'm not about to throw it in gear and put undue stress on the tranny.
Also I've got 130K+ miles on my '03 CL-S and still on my first Clutch. :knockonwood:
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Originally Posted by SouthernBoy
Oh, as for wear to the synchros, remember what kind of a job they do. If you have spun up the engine and tranny to 6500 RPM, then begin a shift from second to fourth, the synchronizers have to slow the gears down considerably before the shift can be made. The synchro cones are rubbing hard against one another to do this, so that's where the addtional wear comes in to play.
Here's what I mean:
-I've revved up to 5600rpm.
-I then depress the clutch and go into neutral.
-While coasting, the engine speed drops.
-As it's dropping, it pauses for approx. 0.7sec at 4100rpm, 3500rpm, and finally at 2000rpm before it lets the revs go to idle speed. I can bypass this effect by tapping the brake once. (those rpm are guesses for example purposes only, I have to look again for the exact numbers)
So, my question now is: What if I'm in 3rd gear at redline in this example, and I wait until the engine speed pauses at the last pause point (2000rpm) before shifting into 6th? I've assumed that each pause corresponds to a time where I could shift into the next gear. So 4100rpm would be 4th, 3500rpm would be 5th, and 2000rpm would be 6th. I know they're not the correct ratios in this example, but just say they are because I don't want to get my car out of the garage and drive it right now to find out what they are for real. I'm guessing this tactic is pretty safe on the synchros because I've waited for the engine to spin down?
teh Senior Instigator
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Huntington Beach, CA -> Ashburn, VA -> Raleigh, NC -> Walnut Creek, CA
Originally Posted by SpeedyV6
Yeah but you have an LS2. On torqueless cars like the S2000 it could lug the engine and cause detonation. I think the sychros would be okay though.
true, I can also take off from a stand still in 4th
Originally Posted by youngTL
What if I wait though? One thing I've noticed about the Accord 6MT (06) is that it will "pause" at certain points.
Here's what I mean:
-I've revved up to 5600rpm.
-I then depress the clutch and go into neutral.
-While coasting, the engine speed drops.
-As it's dropping, it pauses for approx. 0.7sec at 4100rpm, 3500rpm, and finally at 2000rpm before it lets the revs go to idle speed. I can bypass this effect by tapping the brake once. (those rpm are guesses for example purposes only, I have to look again for the exact numbers)
So, my question now is: What if I'm in 3rd gear at redline in this example, and I wait until the engine speed pauses at the last pause point (2000rpm) before shifting into 6th? I've assumed that each pause corresponds to a time where I could shift into the next gear. So 4100rpm would be 4th, 3500rpm would be 5th, and 2000rpm would be 6th. I know they're not the correct ratios in this example, but just say they are because I don't want to get my car out of the garage and drive it right now to find out what they are for real. I'm guessing this tactic is pretty safe on the synchros because I've waited for the engine to spin down?
Here's what I mean:
-I've revved up to 5600rpm.
-I then depress the clutch and go into neutral.
-While coasting, the engine speed drops.
-As it's dropping, it pauses for approx. 0.7sec at 4100rpm, 3500rpm, and finally at 2000rpm before it lets the revs go to idle speed. I can bypass this effect by tapping the brake once. (those rpm are guesses for example purposes only, I have to look again for the exact numbers)
So, my question now is: What if I'm in 3rd gear at redline in this example, and I wait until the engine speed pauses at the last pause point (2000rpm) before shifting into 6th? I've assumed that each pause corresponds to a time where I could shift into the next gear. So 4100rpm would be 4th, 3500rpm would be 5th, and 2000rpm would be 6th. I know they're not the correct ratios in this example, but just say they are because I don't want to get my car out of the garage and drive it right now to find out what they are for real. I'm guessing this tactic is pretty safe on the synchros because I've waited for the engine to spin down?
Aside from that, what you have outlined here in your post, if done properly and carefully, should not harm anything at all. Where people tend to make the mistake doing this is they don't allow sufficient time for the gear speeds to spin down for proper rev matching.
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From: Edmonton, Alberta
Originally Posted by SouthernBoy
I know exactly what you mean. There have been a few times over my driving life when I have had to both upshift and downshift because of a mechanical failure in the clutch cable (Corvair). But it's not something that I do or that I recommend others to do since there is the increased danger of doing some real damage.
Aside from that, what you have outlined here in your post, if done properly and carefully, should not harm anything at all. Where people tend to make the mistake doing this is they don't allow sufficient time for the gear speeds to spin down for proper rev matching.
Aside from that, what you have outlined here in your post, if done properly and carefully, should not harm anything at all. Where people tend to make the mistake doing this is they don't allow sufficient time for the gear speeds to spin down for proper rev matching.
I guess it depends on type of car and driving you're doing. My buddy has a built 94 Mustang GT. He re geared with 4:10s for 1st. he did that for when he drags it he can get awesome holeshots. the 1st gear real "short" his 2nd gear pretty "long". so if we're out in the country screwing around peeling out. he'll say "just leave it in 2nd" but if he's hot rodding or wanting to get a good run on someone he'll use 1st.
Originally Posted by youngTL
What if I wait though? One thing I've noticed about the Accord 6MT (06) is that it will "pause" at certain points.
Here's what I mean:
-I've revved up to 5600rpm.
-I then depress the clutch and go into neutral.
-While coasting, the engine speed drops.
-As it's dropping, it pauses for approx. 0.7sec at 4100rpm, 3500rpm, and finally at 2000rpm before it lets the revs go to idle speed. I can bypass this effect by tapping the brake once. (those rpm are guesses for example purposes only, I have to look again for the exact numbers)
So, my question now is: What if I'm in 3rd gear at redline in this example, and I wait until the engine speed pauses at the last pause point (2000rpm) before shifting into 6th? I've assumed that each pause corresponds to a time where I could shift into the next gear. So 4100rpm would be 4th, 3500rpm would be 5th, and 2000rpm would be 6th. I know they're not the correct ratios in this example, but just say they are because I don't want to get my car out of the garage and drive it right now to find out what they are for real. I'm guessing this tactic is pretty safe on the synchros because I've waited for the engine to spin down?
Here's what I mean:
-I've revved up to 5600rpm.
-I then depress the clutch and go into neutral.
-While coasting, the engine speed drops.
-As it's dropping, it pauses for approx. 0.7sec at 4100rpm, 3500rpm, and finally at 2000rpm before it lets the revs go to idle speed. I can bypass this effect by tapping the brake once. (those rpm are guesses for example purposes only, I have to look again for the exact numbers)
So, my question now is: What if I'm in 3rd gear at redline in this example, and I wait until the engine speed pauses at the last pause point (2000rpm) before shifting into 6th? I've assumed that each pause corresponds to a time where I could shift into the next gear. So 4100rpm would be 4th, 3500rpm would be 5th, and 2000rpm would be 6th. I know they're not the correct ratios in this example, but just say they are because I don't want to get my car out of the garage and drive it right now to find out what they are for real. I'm guessing this tactic is pretty safe on the synchros because I've waited for the engine to spin down?
Hondas(don't get me wrong I love them I have 2) are a little more likely to stall than a for example a GTO or Mustang due to the torque. the "shift spot." is wider on a torquey engine vs a high hp engine. if you up0shift a S2000 down around 2000-2500 the engine will either die or "load up"(meaning bog down). if you do that with a mustang or GTO it take a while to get up to speed in that gear but it will probably won't stall.
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From: Edmonton, Alberta
Originally Posted by Water-S
you have to drive the car to find the shift point. for example a S2000 will shift at higher RPM than a "normal" Civic. if you're doing "normal driving"(not out burning off tires or speed shifting)
Hondas(don't get me wrong I love them I have 2) are a little more likely to stall than a for example a GTO or Mustang due to the torque. the "shift spot." is wider on a torquey engine vs a high hp engine. if you up0shift a S2000 down around 2000-2500 the engine will either die or "load up"(meaning bog down). if you do that with a mustang or GTO it take a while to get up to speed in that gear but it will probably won't stall.
Hondas(don't get me wrong I love them I have 2) are a little more likely to stall than a for example a GTO or Mustang due to the torque. the "shift spot." is wider on a torquey engine vs a high hp engine. if you up0shift a S2000 down around 2000-2500 the engine will either die or "load up"(meaning bog down). if you do that with a mustang or GTO it take a while to get up to speed in that gear but it will probably won't stall.
I know where the shift points are while I'm driving. I was just saying I can't remember the numbers off the top of my head.
I've only stalled my 6MT Accord once. And that was because I forgot it was in gear while I was on the side of the road and let out the clutch instantly without giving it any gas.
The J30A5 is torquey enough. It's nothing like the S2000 at all. I can upshift my car at 2000rpm and It'll go down to 1400rpm with no trouble or loading up.
Originally Posted by Water-S
I guess it depends on type of car and driving you're doing. My buddy has a built 94 Mustang GT. He re geared with 4:10s for 1st. he did that for when he drags it he can get awesome holeshots. the 1st gear real "short" his 2nd gear pretty "long". so if we're out in the country screwing around peeling out. he'll say "just leave it in 2nd" but if he's hot rodding or wanting to get a good run on someone he'll use 1st.
I put 3.55's in my '88 LX 302CID and they were great for the street.
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