Removing Sludge
12-18-2011, 10:45 PM
#1
Removing Sludge
Hey fellas, a few months ago my wife and I bought my sister-in-law a 2002 4runner, v6. Anyway it had a bad valve gasket cover, I took it in, they replaced it. Anyway, the mechanic said that the motor has lots of sludge (while the motor was disassembled), especially on the heads etc. Is there anything I can do to remove it? The car drives perfect, has plenty of power, doesn't knock etc.
12-18-2011, 10:58 PM
#2
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
SEAFOAM !!!
this is couple things that I would do:
1 can of seafoam in the crank case
1/2 can of seafoam in gas tank (when the light is on)
drive it, race it LOL....hit redline couple times....only refill the gas once your almost empty....
do an oil change with Penn Plat (they have good cleaning capacity)...switch the spark plugs as well (depends on mileage but i would)....
after 2-3K miles....do an oil change with whatever oil you like (I prefer Redline)....
do this process and your internals will be sparkling...
this is couple things that I would do:
1 can of seafoam in the crank case
1/2 can of seafoam in gas tank (when the light is on)
drive it, race it LOL....hit redline couple times....only refill the gas once your almost empty....
do an oil change with Penn Plat (they have good cleaning capacity)...switch the spark plugs as well (depends on mileage but i would)....
after 2-3K miles....do an oil change with whatever oil you like (I prefer Redline)....
do this process and your internals will be sparkling...
The following users liked this post:
thelastaspec (12-20-2011)
12-18-2011, 11:13 PM
#4
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
^^^ within 100 odd miles.... 
1 can of seafoam should suffice....if you want heavy cleaning, add 1.25 cans in the crankcase and .75 can in the gas tank
1 can of seafoam should suffice....if you want heavy cleaning, add 1.25 cans in the crankcase and .75 can in the gas tank
12-18-2011, 11:38 PM
#6
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
^^^ no problem....
lemme know how it goes or if you have any other questions
for the TL i also do the slurp method in the vac port but i dont know about Toyotas and hence didnt recommend that, just FYI
Seafoam in Gas Tank cleans lines, injectors (hence i said redline it after you seafoam it)
Seafoam in Crankcase cleans the rods/pistons/etc
Seafoam in the Vac port cleans Throttle body/Manifold/runners/etc
lemme know how it goes or if you have any other questions
for the TL i also do the slurp method in the vac port but i dont know about Toyotas and hence didnt recommend that, just FYI
Seafoam in Gas Tank cleans lines, injectors (hence i said redline it after you seafoam it)
Seafoam in Crankcase cleans the rods/pistons/etc
Seafoam in the Vac port cleans Throttle body/Manifold/runners/etc
12-18-2011, 11:41 PM
#7
This can be a touchy subject with lots of varying opinion.
First off, how bad is the sludge? Keep in mind that sludge almost always develops in the valve covers first. From that point it generally forms in other parts of the engine. Just because there is some sludge in the valve covers doesn't always mean it's found it's way to other engine components. I'd like to know how the mechanic arrived at that particular assumption.
Assuming there are sludge deposits in the engine, there are a number of additives which supposedly remove these deposits. Additives such as Seafoam and Auto-Rx are the most common. Some people claim these additives work well, while others are less impressed with their performance. Others are absolutely confident they do more harm than good. The reason being is that the removal of sludge can actually be harmful to an engine if it's gummed up very badly and these additives break down the deposits quickly and in turn plug the oil pickup or harm bearing surfaces. Personally, I feel uncomfortable running any sort of additive that contains as solvent.
I've purchased some cars which have been sitting for long periods of time that I've wanted to get running. After removing the valve covers (to check the valve train) prior to starting, I've often noticed gummy deposits. These are for the most part date coded originals and very expensive and I haven't wanted to inflict any damage. For this reason, many of us prefer to drain the oil in it's entirety and replace it with fresh dino oil minus about one-half to three-quarters of a quart. In it's place we add automatic transmission fluid, or ATF, and then run the engine sparingly for several miles. ATF is a lubricant, but contains a very high percentage of detergents and cleaners. During this process the engine isn't worked hard and the ATF isn't run in the engine for any more than a few hours. If the engine was particularly dirty, then a second treatment may be necessary. It's been my personal experience that this works well without the use of a solvent. I also haven't heard of any other collector or engine rebuilder that has any complaints with this method.
Again, it's something you will have to decide which will work best for you. And whether or not it's even worth doing depending upon the condition of the engine. Whatever method you choose (or not), using a full synthetic oil will alleviate any further sludge issues.
First off, how bad is the sludge? Keep in mind that sludge almost always develops in the valve covers first. From that point it generally forms in other parts of the engine. Just because there is some sludge in the valve covers doesn't always mean it's found it's way to other engine components. I'd like to know how the mechanic arrived at that particular assumption.
Assuming there are sludge deposits in the engine, there are a number of additives which supposedly remove these deposits. Additives such as Seafoam and Auto-Rx are the most common. Some people claim these additives work well, while others are less impressed with their performance. Others are absolutely confident they do more harm than good. The reason being is that the removal of sludge can actually be harmful to an engine if it's gummed up very badly and these additives break down the deposits quickly and in turn plug the oil pickup or harm bearing surfaces. Personally, I feel uncomfortable running any sort of additive that contains as solvent.
I've purchased some cars which have been sitting for long periods of time that I've wanted to get running. After removing the valve covers (to check the valve train) prior to starting, I've often noticed gummy deposits. These are for the most part date coded originals and very expensive and I haven't wanted to inflict any damage. For this reason, many of us prefer to drain the oil in it's entirety and replace it with fresh dino oil minus about one-half to three-quarters of a quart. In it's place we add automatic transmission fluid, or ATF, and then run the engine sparingly for several miles. ATF is a lubricant, but contains a very high percentage of detergents and cleaners. During this process the engine isn't worked hard and the ATF isn't run in the engine for any more than a few hours. If the engine was particularly dirty, then a second treatment may be necessary. It's been my personal experience that this works well without the use of a solvent. I also haven't heard of any other collector or engine rebuilder that has any complaints with this method.
Again, it's something you will have to decide which will work best for you. And whether or not it's even worth doing depending upon the condition of the engine. Whatever method you choose (or not), using a full synthetic oil will alleviate any further sludge issues.
The following users liked this post:
civicdrivr (12-20-2011)
Trending Topics
12-19-2011, 12:03 AM
#9
Thank you Terry, you always deliver 
. I used a relative of my wifes Boss, he has a small shop on the outskirts of town. Like I said, it needed the valve cover gasket replaced, I've done alternators, and starters and what not but never large things like that, so I was somewhat uncomfortable doing it myself. He said when he took the valve cover off it was "all gummed up and hardned, although it still runs good and has plenty of power". Out of respect for my wife's boss and her family I didnt say much. He also said it never had the timing belt changed, however, theres a stamp on the motor from toyota saying it was changed at 90xxxx miles. Then he said that the timing belt needs to be changed every year... Thats new to me, I've always thought it was around the 90-100k mark, unless it has a timing chain. Anyway, my main reason for concern is my sister-in-law drives 50 miles each way to school and shes a real "girly girl" and I'd hate for it to leave her stranded somewhere. I think I'll try the seafoam route and see where it goes.
I have a qt of ATF, I'll throw in too. Cant hurt at this point
I've also heard about running diesel fuel through the engine...
. I used a relative of my wifes Boss, he has a small shop on the outskirts of town. Like I said, it needed the valve cover gasket replaced, I've done alternators, and starters and what not but never large things like that, so I was somewhat uncomfortable doing it myself. He said when he took the valve cover off it was "all gummed up and hardned, although it still runs good and has plenty of power". Out of respect for my wife's boss and her family I didnt say much. He also said it never had the timing belt changed, however, theres a stamp on the motor from toyota saying it was changed at 90xxxx miles. Then he said that the timing belt needs to be changed every year... Thats new to me, I've always thought it was around the 90-100k mark, unless it has a timing chain. Anyway, my main reason for concern is my sister-in-law drives 50 miles each way to school and shes a real "girly girl" and I'd hate for it to leave her stranded somewhere. I think I'll try the seafoam route and see where it goes.I have a qt of ATF, I'll throw in too. Cant hurt at this point
I've also heard about running diesel fuel through the engine...
Last edited by combat mediC; 12-19-2011 at 12:10 AM.
12-19-2011, 12:38 AM
#10
12-19-2011, 12:38 AM
#11
No problem combat. Like I said, just be careful whatever you use. Additives may work perfectly fine, but I can only let you know of my personal experiences. Whatever I do to an engine, I tend to visualize all components and bearing surfaces and what will have either a benefit or detriment. Personally, if I knew of an engine with severe deposits or sludge, I would want them to be removed gradually.
Keep in mind I've worked on a number of engines that exhibited sludge in the valve covers but didn't have it in any either place. The only good way to determine is to drop the pan and take a look. Anyway, whichever route you decide to take, I think it would be best to use one approach or the other. I don't think it would be a good idea to use a combination of products. And again, a full synthetic doesn't cause sludge as easily as a dino oil does.
Keep in mind I've worked on a number of engines that exhibited sludge in the valve covers but didn't have it in any either place. The only good way to determine is to drop the pan and take a look. Anyway, whichever route you decide to take, I think it would be best to use one approach or the other. I don't think it would be a good idea to use a combination of products. And again, a full synthetic doesn't cause sludge as easily as a dino oil does.
The following users liked this post:
combat mediC (12-19-2011)
12-19-2011, 12:43 AM
#12
Don't use him again.
12-19-2011, 08:49 AM
#17
Banned
This can be a touchy subject with lots of varying opinion.
First off, how bad is the sludge? Keep in mind that sludge almost always develops in the valve covers first. From that point it generally forms in other parts of the engine. Just because there is some sludge in the valve covers doesn't always mean it's found it's way to other engine components. I'd like to know how the mechanic arrived at that particular assumption.
Assuming there are sludge deposits in the engine, there are a number of additives which supposedly remove these deposits. Additives such as Seafoam and Auto-Rx are the most common. Some people claim these additives work well, while others are less impressed with their performance. Others are absolutely confident they do more harm than good. The reason being is that the removal of sludge can actually be harmful to an engine if it's gummed up very badly and these additives break down the deposits quickly and in turn plug the oil pickup or harm bearing surfaces. Personally, I feel uncomfortable running any sort of additive that contains as solvent.
I've purchased some cars which have been sitting for long periods of time that I've wanted to get running. After removing the valve covers (to check the valve train) prior to starting, I've often noticed gummy deposits. These are for the most part date coded originals and very expensive and I haven't wanted to inflict any damage. For this reason, many of us prefer to drain the oil in it's entirety and replace it with fresh dino oil minus about one-half to three-quarters of a quart. In it's place we add automatic transmission fluid, or ATF, and then run the engine sparingly for several miles. ATF is a lubricant, but contains a very high percentage of detergents and cleaners. During this process the engine isn't worked hard and the ATF isn't run in the engine for any more than a few hours. If the engine was particularly dirty, then a second treatment may be necessary. It's been my personal experience that this works well without the use of a solvent. I also haven't heard of any other collector or engine rebuilder that has any complaints with this method.
Again, it's something you will have to decide which will work best for you. And whether or not it's even worth doing depending upon the condition of the engine. Whatever method you choose (or not), using a full synthetic oil will alleviate any further sludge issues.
First off, how bad is the sludge? Keep in mind that sludge almost always develops in the valve covers first. From that point it generally forms in other parts of the engine. Just because there is some sludge in the valve covers doesn't always mean it's found it's way to other engine components. I'd like to know how the mechanic arrived at that particular assumption.
Assuming there are sludge deposits in the engine, there are a number of additives which supposedly remove these deposits. Additives such as Seafoam and Auto-Rx are the most common. Some people claim these additives work well, while others are less impressed with their performance. Others are absolutely confident they do more harm than good. The reason being is that the removal of sludge can actually be harmful to an engine if it's gummed up very badly and these additives break down the deposits quickly and in turn plug the oil pickup or harm bearing surfaces. Personally, I feel uncomfortable running any sort of additive that contains as solvent.
I've purchased some cars which have been sitting for long periods of time that I've wanted to get running. After removing the valve covers (to check the valve train) prior to starting, I've often noticed gummy deposits. These are for the most part date coded originals and very expensive and I haven't wanted to inflict any damage. For this reason, many of us prefer to drain the oil in it's entirety and replace it with fresh dino oil minus about one-half to three-quarters of a quart. In it's place we add automatic transmission fluid, or ATF, and then run the engine sparingly for several miles. ATF is a lubricant, but contains a very high percentage of detergents and cleaners. During this process the engine isn't worked hard and the ATF isn't run in the engine for any more than a few hours. If the engine was particularly dirty, then a second treatment may be necessary. It's been my personal experience that this works well without the use of a solvent. I also haven't heard of any other collector or engine rebuilder that has any complaints with this method.
Again, it's something you will have to decide which will work best for you. And whether or not it's even worth doing depending upon the condition of the engine. Whatever method you choose (or not), using a full synthetic oil will alleviate any further sludge issues.
To me, Seafoam seems to be the latest in the Snake Oil line of products, that can work miracles that only Tim Tebow has been known to do. I don't buy it. There are similar, less expensive products that have been around for a long time that claim, and probably do the same thing.
I'd try to manually remove all the sludge you can by hand before you try to run any kind of product through it. Had a Jeep GC that came through the shop (when I worked there, almost ten years ago) that never had the oil changed and it was sitting at 110k. Boss sold her an 'engine flush' product similar to Seafoam at a small premium over her oil change and sent her on her way. I saw the before, and it was like the oil had returned to a solid state. A week later, we get the call that her engine locked up, and it was due to breaking up the sludge only partially.
While something like this may work for you, it also very well could cost you a ton. I highly ascribe to the method Terry has mentioned with ATF. I've done it several times to vehicles in comparable states, and never had a problem. Of course, it's not a 'marketable' or 'profitable' solution, so you'll rarely find it mentioned by people you do business with.
12-19-2011, 08:52 AM
#18
Team Owner
iTrader: (4)
This can be a touchy subject with lots of varying opinion.
First off, how bad is the sludge? Keep in mind that sludge almost always develops in the valve covers first. From that point it generally forms in other parts of the engine. Just because there is some sludge in the valve covers doesn't always mean it's found it's way to other engine components. I'd like to know how the mechanic arrived at that particular assumption.
Assuming there are sludge deposits in the engine, there are a number of additives which supposedly remove these deposits. Additives such as Seafoam and Auto-Rx are the most common. Some people claim these additives work well, while others are less impressed with their performance. Others are absolutely confident they do more harm than good. The reason being is that the removal of sludge can actually be harmful to an engine if it's gummed up very badly and these additives break down the deposits quickly and in turn plug the oil pickup or harm bearing surfaces. Personally, I feel uncomfortable running any sort of additive that contains as solvent.
I've purchased some cars which have been sitting for long periods of time that I've wanted to get running. After removing the valve covers (to check the valve train) prior to starting, I've often noticed gummy deposits. These are for the most part date coded originals and very expensive and I haven't wanted to inflict any damage. For this reason, many of us prefer to drain the oil in it's entirety and replace it with fresh dino oil minus about one-half to three-quarters of a quart. In it's place we add automatic transmission fluid, or ATF, and then run the engine sparingly for several miles. ATF is a lubricant, but contains a very high percentage of detergents and cleaners. During this process the engine isn't worked hard and the ATF isn't run in the engine for any more than a few hours. If the engine was particularly dirty, then a second treatment may be necessary. It's been my personal experience that this works well without the use of a solvent. I also haven't heard of any other collector or engine rebuilder that has any complaints with this method.
Again, it's something you will have to decide which will work best for you. And whether or not it's even worth doing depending upon the condition of the engine. Whatever method you choose (or not), using a full synthetic oil will alleviate any further sludge issues.
First off, how bad is the sludge? Keep in mind that sludge almost always develops in the valve covers first. From that point it generally forms in other parts of the engine. Just because there is some sludge in the valve covers doesn't always mean it's found it's way to other engine components. I'd like to know how the mechanic arrived at that particular assumption.
Assuming there are sludge deposits in the engine, there are a number of additives which supposedly remove these deposits. Additives such as Seafoam and Auto-Rx are the most common. Some people claim these additives work well, while others are less impressed with their performance. Others are absolutely confident they do more harm than good. The reason being is that the removal of sludge can actually be harmful to an engine if it's gummed up very badly and these additives break down the deposits quickly and in turn plug the oil pickup or harm bearing surfaces. Personally, I feel uncomfortable running any sort of additive that contains as solvent.
I've purchased some cars which have been sitting for long periods of time that I've wanted to get running. After removing the valve covers (to check the valve train) prior to starting, I've often noticed gummy deposits. These are for the most part date coded originals and very expensive and I haven't wanted to inflict any damage. For this reason, many of us prefer to drain the oil in it's entirety and replace it with fresh dino oil minus about one-half to three-quarters of a quart. In it's place we add automatic transmission fluid, or ATF, and then run the engine sparingly for several miles. ATF is a lubricant, but contains a very high percentage of detergents and cleaners. During this process the engine isn't worked hard and the ATF isn't run in the engine for any more than a few hours. If the engine was particularly dirty, then a second treatment may be necessary. It's been my personal experience that this works well without the use of a solvent. I also haven't heard of any other collector or engine rebuilder that has any complaints with this method.
Again, it's something you will have to decide which will work best for you. And whether or not it's even worth doing depending upon the condition of the engine. Whatever method you choose (or not), using a full synthetic oil will alleviate any further sludge issues.
Personally I am not a fan of Seafoam or other additives either.
If it were me I would switch to Pennzoil or another oil that has a high level of active detergents and do frequent oil changes to try to slowly remove the sludge. I like Terry's idea though.
Last edited by RaviNJCLs; 12-19-2011 at 08:56 AM.
12-19-2011, 10:57 AM
#19
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
want to know....am curious....
12-20-2011, 12:02 PM
#20
AZ Community Team
Terry, my thoughts are the same. I've always been very leery of any solvent based engine de-gunk/sludge products. They may work but they also may cause permanent damage.
The last gunked up engine I worked on was my Mom's 71 LTD with a 351 Windsor that looked like the Labrea tar pits when I removed the valve covers. Fortunately she got a new car soon after since a rod knock appeared within a couple months of me discovering the sludge.
The last gunked up engine I worked on was my Mom's 71 LTD with a 351 Windsor that looked like the Labrea tar pits when I removed the valve covers. Fortunately she got a new car soon after since a rod knock appeared within a couple months of me discovering the sludge.
This can be a touchy subject with lots of varying opinion.
First off, how bad is the sludge? Keep in mind that sludge almost always develops in the valve covers first. From that point it generally forms in other parts of the engine. Just because there is some sludge in the valve covers doesn't always mean it's found it's way to other engine components. I'd like to know how the mechanic arrived at that particular assumption.
Assuming there are sludge deposits in the engine, there are a number of additives which supposedly remove these deposits. Additives such as Seafoam and Auto-Rx are the most common. Some people claim these additives work well, while others are less impressed with their performance. Others are absolutely confident they do more harm than good. The reason being is that the removal of sludge can actually be harmful to an engine if it's gummed up very badly and these additives break down the deposits quickly and in turn plug the oil pickup or harm bearing surfaces. Personally, I feel uncomfortable running any sort of additive that contains as solvent.
I've purchased some cars which have been sitting for long periods of time that I've wanted to get running. After removing the valve covers (to check the valve train) prior to starting, I've often noticed gummy deposits. These are for the most part date coded originals and very expensive and I haven't wanted to inflict any damage. For this reason, many of us prefer to drain the oil in it's entirety and replace it with fresh dino oil minus about one-half to three-quarters of a quart. In it's place we add automatic transmission fluid, or ATF, and then run the engine sparingly for several miles. ATF is a lubricant, but contains a very high percentage of detergents and cleaners. During this process the engine isn't worked hard and the ATF isn't run in the engine for any more than a few hours. If the engine was particularly dirty, then a second treatment may be necessary. It's been my personal experience that this works well without the use of a solvent. I also haven't heard of any other collector or engine rebuilder that has any complaints with this method.
Again, it's something you will have to decide which will work best for you. And whether or not it's even worth doing depending upon the condition of the engine. Whatever method you choose (or not), using a full synthetic oil will alleviate any further sludge issues.
First off, how bad is the sludge? Keep in mind that sludge almost always develops in the valve covers first. From that point it generally forms in other parts of the engine. Just because there is some sludge in the valve covers doesn't always mean it's found it's way to other engine components. I'd like to know how the mechanic arrived at that particular assumption.
Assuming there are sludge deposits in the engine, there are a number of additives which supposedly remove these deposits. Additives such as Seafoam and Auto-Rx are the most common. Some people claim these additives work well, while others are less impressed with their performance. Others are absolutely confident they do more harm than good. The reason being is that the removal of sludge can actually be harmful to an engine if it's gummed up very badly and these additives break down the deposits quickly and in turn plug the oil pickup or harm bearing surfaces. Personally, I feel uncomfortable running any sort of additive that contains as solvent.
I've purchased some cars which have been sitting for long periods of time that I've wanted to get running. After removing the valve covers (to check the valve train) prior to starting, I've often noticed gummy deposits. These are for the most part date coded originals and very expensive and I haven't wanted to inflict any damage. For this reason, many of us prefer to drain the oil in it's entirety and replace it with fresh dino oil minus about one-half to three-quarters of a quart. In it's place we add automatic transmission fluid, or ATF, and then run the engine sparingly for several miles. ATF is a lubricant, but contains a very high percentage of detergents and cleaners. During this process the engine isn't worked hard and the ATF isn't run in the engine for any more than a few hours. If the engine was particularly dirty, then a second treatment may be necessary. It's been my personal experience that this works well without the use of a solvent. I also haven't heard of any other collector or engine rebuilder that has any complaints with this method.
Again, it's something you will have to decide which will work best for you. And whether or not it's even worth doing depending upon the condition of the engine. Whatever method you choose (or not), using a full synthetic oil will alleviate any further sludge issues.
No problem combat. Like I said, just be careful whatever you use. Additives may work perfectly fine, but I can only let you know of my personal experiences. Whatever I do to an engine, I tend to visualize all components and bearing surfaces and what will have either a benefit or detriment. Personally, if I knew of an engine with severe deposits or sludge, I would want them to be removed gradually.
Keep in mind I've worked on a number of engines that exhibited sludge in the valve covers but didn't have it in any either place. The only good way to determine is to drop the pan and take a look. Anyway, whichever route you decide to take, I think it would be best to use one approach or the other. I don't think it would be a good idea to use a combination of products. And again, a full synthetic doesn't cause sludge as easily as a dino oil does.
Keep in mind I've worked on a number of engines that exhibited sludge in the valve covers but didn't have it in any either place. The only good way to determine is to drop the pan and take a look. Anyway, whichever route you decide to take, I think it would be best to use one approach or the other. I don't think it would be a good idea to use a combination of products. And again, a full synthetic doesn't cause sludge as easily as a dino oil does.
12-20-2011, 12:11 PM
#21
AZ Community Team
I saw on the PBS TV program Autoweek with host Pat Goss using a engine cleaning machine that physically hooks up to the oil filter and drain plug. The machine pumps in a highly concentrated detergent through the entire engine while it is off. This allows the use of a non-oil product without engine damage. Then machine cycles the detergent through the engine many times after it has been filtered. They showed a demonstration on the program, it looked like a pretty fancy setup. I've never used on before but if I had a lot of sludge I'd use that before trying a solvent based cleaner. The machine recovers the detergent and vacuums up as much as possible, I presume engine oil is re-added and used for a short period to dilute the detergent that is stuck in pools that cannot be drained out.
12-20-2011, 01:59 PM
#22
The sizzle in the Steak
I would avoid products like seafoam.
12-20-2011, 02:45 PM
#24
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
12-20-2011, 02:49 PM
#25
GEEZER
if the engine is apart and the heads are off...Easy Off Oven Cleaner. My Dad did it...I have done it. Works great.
12-20-2011, 03:31 PM
#26
The sizzle in the Steak
12-20-2011, 04:11 PM
#28
it is a solvent, made to destroy other liquids and solids. Some things dissolvable by solvents are rubber seals like the ones on the front and rear of your crank.
not to mention you are removing oil (used to add a microscopic layer of protection to metals that make contact) and replacing it with something that does not serve that purpose.
-phee
not to mention you are removing oil (used to add a microscopic layer of protection to metals that make contact) and replacing it with something that does not serve that purpose.
-phee
12-21-2011, 09:16 AM
#29
AZ Community Team
http://www.engineflush.com/pages/engine.html
These are the kind thing I would try first before running the engine and using a solvent based product to remove sludge. Even these machine may not be able to effectively remove the sludge, but they operate with the motor off so there is no friction or wear damage potential.
These are the kind thing I would try first before running the engine and using a solvent based product to remove sludge. Even these machine may not be able to effectively remove the sludge, but they operate with the motor off so there is no friction or wear damage potential.
12-21-2011, 09:43 AM
#30
Rich and Famous
it is a solvent, made to destroy other liquids and solids. Some things dissolvable by solvents are rubber seals like the ones on the front and rear of your crank.
not to mention you are removing oil (used to add a microscopic layer of protection to metals that make contact) and replacing it with something that does not serve that purpose.
-phee
not to mention you are removing oil (used to add a microscopic layer of protection to metals that make contact) and replacing it with something that does not serve that purpose.
-phee
Sometimes it works and sometimes the cure is worst.
I prefer prevention of sludge and physical removal when necessary.
12-21-2011, 12:10 PM
#32
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
^^^ yes and thats why i asked him to do an oil change withing 100 miles....
again seafoam has worked amazing in my car....i do wanna try some ATF in there as Terry mentioned....
again seafoam has worked amazing in my car....i do wanna try some ATF in there as Terry mentioned....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dainmezron
4G TL (2009-2014)
16
10-16-2015 06:56 PM
detailersdomain
Wash & Wax
3
10-09-2015 10:13 PM
