JS + TL: Dilemma
Im bored today so ill help.
The cars price is $20k?
10k down (trade in im assuming?)
You will have to pay tax on $10k then, whats the sales tax in cali?
Add title and licensing (dunno how much that is there)
= total out the door price
Then put that total out the door price in the calculator and pop in that 5.9% rate and see what your monthly comes out to.
The cars price is $20k?
10k down (trade in im assuming?)
You will have to pay tax on $10k then, whats the sales tax in cali?
Add title and licensing (dunno how much that is there)
= total out the door price
Then put that total out the door price in the calculator and pop in that 5.9% rate and see what your monthly comes out to.
Im bored today so ill help.
The cars price is $20k?
10k down
You will have to pay tax on $10k then, whats the sales tax in cali?
Add title and licensing (dunno how much that is there)
= total out the door price
Then put that total out the door price in the calculator and pop in that 5.9% rate and see what your monthly comes out to.
The cars price is $20k?
10k down
You will have to pay tax on $10k then, whats the sales tax in cali?
Add title and licensing (dunno how much that is there)
= total out the door price
Then put that total out the door price in the calculator and pop in that 5.9% rate and see what your monthly comes out to.
So that's about $50 a month * 60 months in financing profit for the dealer. Awesome deal.
^
oops.
I don't know how much the cars price was, they were keep on giving me monthly payment numbers. They quoted me $460 @ 60 months for the first try. I was like okay, you can go f yourself. And he was like let me try again. We did that for like 30 minutes and by the time they reached 299, I just got out.
You know, if the car itself is priced at $20K, and if I put down 10K and finance it for 60 months, how much would be the approximate amount of total payoff. I just want to know this so I can have a good idea when I'm at the dealer.
According to the Jesal's calculate, it should be at $23858.2. Is this right?
By the way, the interest rate was 5.99%. My no-credit-whatsoever SSN was used only. They had this special program called Recent College Graduate program.
oops. I don't know how much the cars price was, they were keep on giving me monthly payment numbers. They quoted me $460 @ 60 months for the first try. I was like okay, you can go f yourself. And he was like let me try again. We did that for like 30 minutes and by the time they reached 299, I just got out.
You know, if the car itself is priced at $20K, and if I put down 10K and finance it for 60 months, how much would be the approximate amount of total payoff. I just want to know this so I can have a good idea when I'm at the dealer.
According to the Jesal's calculate, it should be at $23858.2. Is this right?
By the way, the interest rate was 5.99%. My no-credit-whatsoever SSN was used only. They had this special program called Recent College Graduate program.

Tell them you are a cash buyer and that you want to deal with the purchase price only, not monthly payments. Ask for an itemized list of what they are charging you. Negotiating based on monthly payment amounts is the fastest way to get conned at a dealership.
Also secure your own financing. It's easy to call a bank or a credit union and get pre-approved.
Thread Starter
I drive a Subata.
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 20,301
Likes: 2,603
From: Socal
Typical sleazy dealership bullshit. They can hide so many BS fees and balloon things up by going with a monthly payment system. 
Tell them you are a cash buyer and that you want to deal with the purchase price only, not monthly payments. Ask for an itemized list of what they are charging you. Negotiating based on monthly payment amounts is the fastest way to get conned at a dealership.
Also secure your own financing. It's easy to call a bank or a credit union and get pre-approved.

Tell them you are a cash buyer and that you want to deal with the purchase price only, not monthly payments. Ask for an itemized list of what they are charging you. Negotiating based on monthly payment amounts is the fastest way to get conned at a dealership.
Also secure your own financing. It's easy to call a bank or a credit union and get pre-approved.
So, I just sent mass emails to like 10 Honda dealerships in LA area, as of now, like 5 of them gave me quotes.
09 Civic Si Sedan with Navi Black/Black
$24,775 -> $21,900
09 Civic Si Sedan without Navi ?/?
? -> $20,821
What you guys think? Do I still have a chance to negotiate this price down when I actually go into dealership with this information.
takin care of Business in
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From: Kansas City, MO
since ur wanting to save money i would suggest you stick to the current car, because you get the most for ur car if you stick to it for like 6-7 years....this is what i would do.....
say you pay 600 a month for ur car (600*60 = 36K.....32K for car and around 4K interest over 5 years).....you will be done with ur payments by end of the year (say).....so u will have owned ur car for like 5 years.....
next 2 years i will put that 600 in a savings account.....(600 x 24 = 14400....plus interest = 15K round figure).....
now i will trade my car in....around 8K for car??? plus 15K u have saved up....= 23K.....
you can actually get ur new civic paid cash at dealership......or if you qualify for 0% APR....keep the money in the savings account and make monthly payments....u will earn interest while paying for ur new car.....
or if u wanna get a new 335i or G39 (by then LOL
) u can put 50% cash down....
u getting my drift !!!! ???
say you pay 600 a month for ur car (600*60 = 36K.....32K for car and around 4K interest over 5 years).....you will be done with ur payments by end of the year (say).....so u will have owned ur car for like 5 years.....
next 2 years i will put that 600 in a savings account.....(600 x 24 = 14400....plus interest = 15K round figure).....
now i will trade my car in....around 8K for car??? plus 15K u have saved up....= 23K.....
you can actually get ur new civic paid cash at dealership......or if you qualify for 0% APR....keep the money in the savings account and make monthly payments....u will earn interest while paying for ur new car.....
or if u wanna get a new 335i or G39 (by then LOL
) u can put 50% cash down....u getting my drift !!!! ???
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,733
From: Kansas City, MO
You can always negotiate the price down. Just make sure to come armed to the brim with research. I've also heard that if you mention that you've gotten a quote from another dealer, salesmen will put forth their best offer to avoid looking stupid. Dunno if it's true though.
since ur wanting to save money i would suggest you stick to the current car, because you get the most for ur car if you stick to it for like 6-7 years....this is what i would do.....
say you pay 600 a month for ur car (600*60 = 36K.....32K for car and around 4K interest over 5 years).....you will be done with ur payments by end of the year (say).....so u will have owned ur car for like 5 years.....
next 2 years i will put that 600 in a savings account.....(600 x 24 = 14400....plus interest = 15K round figure).....
now i will trade my car in....around 8K for car??? plus 15K u have saved up....= 23K.....
you can actually get ur new civic paid cash at dealership......or if you qualify for 0% APR....keep the money in the savings account and make monthly payments....u will earn interest while paying for ur new car.....
or if u wanna get a new 335i or G39 (by then LOL
) u can put 50% cash down....
u getting my drift !!!! ???
say you pay 600 a month for ur car (600*60 = 36K.....32K for car and around 4K interest over 5 years).....you will be done with ur payments by end of the year (say).....so u will have owned ur car for like 5 years.....
next 2 years i will put that 600 in a savings account.....(600 x 24 = 14400....plus interest = 15K round figure).....
now i will trade my car in....around 8K for car??? plus 15K u have saved up....= 23K.....
you can actually get ur new civic paid cash at dealership......or if you qualify for 0% APR....keep the money in the savings account and make monthly payments....u will earn interest while paying for ur new car.....
or if u wanna get a new 335i or G39 (by then LOL
) u can put 50% cash down....u getting my drift !!!! ???
It's surprising to me how many people want to renew their payment obligation with a new car (and payment) instead of keeping their old car a little longer to save up cash for the next ride. I paid off my car in May and the normal payment goes straight into a savings account now. I'm effectively making a payment to myself now.
This technique also helps people buy cars they actually can afford which is another good thing. Perhaps I'll buy another TL when the body style changes in 3 years with cash or some other vehicle. In the mean time cash is accumulating for any interesting investment ideas that come along between now and then.
With the depressed real estate prices and relatively low interest rates, the cash saved may be very handy for buying that first home.
In order to keep your 60 payments under $300 you'll need:
-Find a car under $23,000
-tax, title, registration, etc. = ~3000
$10,000 down
-5.5% interest on a loan
Don't let the dealer do all the calculations, learn to do it yourself and bring a calculator with you.
-Find a car under $23,000
-tax, title, registration, etc. = ~3000
$10,000 down
-5.5% interest on a loan
Don't let the dealer do all the calculations, learn to do it yourself and bring a calculator with you.
Thread Starter
I drive a Subata.
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 20,301
Likes: 2,603
From: Socal
I'll probably get flamed. 
I'm going to pick up the brand new MS3 in 3 hours. Already went to the Mazda dealership in Cerritos and did the deal.
The car is stickered @ 24K + Mark up $1500
After negotiation, the deal came out to be
$8K down
$320 @ 60 months
After my calculation, the total cost of this came out to be $27200.
I test drove it and it was
.... The car felt much better than the Si.... I loved everything about it. It's so much faster and agile than my automatic TL.
I fully understand that it's a bad financial decision to make at this point of my life. However, I always wanted to have one of these affordable sporty cars and this is the right timing.
I've been saving more than 50% of my entire income ever since I started my job and planning to do this continuously.
So, it will be great if you guys congrat me on the new car purchase! Plus, I don't think I did that bad on the deal! Hopefully. haha

I'm going to pick up the brand new MS3 in 3 hours. Already went to the Mazda dealership in Cerritos and did the deal.
The car is stickered @ 24K + Mark up $1500
After negotiation, the deal came out to be
$8K down
$320 @ 60 months
After my calculation, the total cost of this came out to be $27200.
I test drove it and it was
.... The car felt much better than the Si.... I loved everything about it. It's so much faster and agile than my automatic TL.I fully understand that it's a bad financial decision to make at this point of my life. However, I always wanted to have one of these affordable sporty cars and this is the right timing.
I've been saving more than 50% of my entire income ever since I started my job and planning to do this continuously.
So, it will be great if you guys congrat me on the new car purchase! Plus, I don't think I did that bad on the deal! Hopefully. haha
I really hope you did your homework on that price. Seems kinda high. I just couldnt imagine paying a markup, let alone sticker price in this market.
What are others on the Mazda forum paying for them?
Either way its a great car and if you happy then congrats
What color combo?
What are others on the Mazda forum paying for them?
Either way its a great car and if you happy then congrats

What color combo?
congrats! Personally I'm not a fan of the new giant smiley face look, but to each his own.... most people approve of the new 3 styling. You're being smart about your income still, and I personally feel you should have some fun at least while saving up for a house.
Thread Starter
I drive a Subata.
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 20,301
Likes: 2,603
From: Socal
Thanks guys!
What's CBE!? I don't know anything about these I-4 turbo engines.
I'm thinking of keeping this car stock for at least 1 year. Howver, I'll put 6K HIDs for low beam and fog light within 1 month. I'll mod it for sure in the future though.
I think even with the stock form, it is still plenty faster than my TL.
What's CBE!? I don't know anything about these I-4 turbo engines.
I'm thinking of keeping this car stock for at least 1 year. Howver, I'll put 6K HIDs for low beam and fog light within 1 month. I'll mod it for sure in the future though.
I think even with the stock form, it is still plenty faster than my TL.
Thanks guys!
What's CBE!? I don't know anything about these I-4 turbo engines.
I'm thinking of keeping this car stock for at least 1 year. Howver, I'll put 6K HIDs for low beam and fog light within 1 month. I'll mod it for sure in the future though.
I think even with the stock form, it is still plenty faster than my TL.
What's CBE!? I don't know anything about these I-4 turbo engines.
I'm thinking of keeping this car stock for at least 1 year. Howver, I'll put 6K HIDs for low beam and fog light within 1 month. I'll mod it for sure in the future though.
I think even with the stock form, it is still plenty faster than my TL.

Congratulations dude!
That is definitely the car to get in that category. I think I'd get it over the Si as well. Post some pictures asap!
If you need to know a good MS3 forum, charliemike is the guy to ask as I know he owned one previously.
That is definitely the car to get in that category. I think I'd get it over the Si as well. Post some pictures asap! If you need to know a good MS3 forum, charliemike is the guy to ask as I know he owned one previously.
www.mazda3forums.com is probably the biggest.
Pretty young group over there though.
There are a few here that own/have owned a MS3 so we can probably answer some questions.
Did you drive the previous gen? I'm thinking about test driving a new MS3 to see how much better it is.
Pretty young group over there though.
There are a few here that own/have owned a MS3 so we can probably answer some questions.
Did you drive the previous gen? I'm thinking about test driving a new MS3 to see how much better it is.
Thread Starter
I drive a Subata.
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 20,301
Likes: 2,603
From: Socal
I'm going to post pictures tomorrow! HA!
Meanwhile, can someone find out which bulb do I have to get for 2010 MS3? Low beam and fog lights. I can't find it on the Sylvania website... I'm going to order 2 sets from our sponsor HIDEXTRA!
Should look really sharp with them!
Meanwhile, can someone find out which bulb do I have to get for 2010 MS3? Low beam and fog lights. I can't find it on the Sylvania website... I'm going to order 2 sets from our sponsor HIDEXTRA!
Should look really sharp with them!
Last edited by JS + XES; Sep 24, 2009 at 02:41 AM.
Thread Starter
I drive a Subata.
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 20,301
Likes: 2,603
From: Socal






Here's my new ride 2010 Mazdaspeed3 Black on Black!
Yes, some people don't like the new styling the I think it looks awesome. And I think I can kinda modify it a little to make the front looking pretty evilish smile so...
I don't know much about MS3s... and turbocharged engines. You guys can probably help me out what to mod.
I've already ordered sets of 6K HID kits for the low-beams and probably tint my windows this weekend. Don't know what to do after that.
I read that Corksport?? has some performance modifications coming out soon. Here's the First Dyno results of the new 2010 MS3.
http://www.corksport.com/blog/2010-m...-dyno-results/
231.03 horsepower and 269.70 torque on the wheel
And, Mods, can you guys add like 2010 Mazdaspeed3 pictures added on the thread title for me? Thank you very much!
does someone in Socal want to do some photoshoot with me? I don't have a good camera....
Last edited by JS + XES; Sep 24, 2009 at 01:48 PM.
turboback exhaust + tune should net you quite a lot of horsepower. Usually that's how it goes for forced induction cars. I don't know how restrictive the intake/exhaust system is on the MS3 but merely an intake can add quite a bit too, just make sure you've got everything you need before you tune





