Interesting article about warming up your car.
01-10-2011, 12:14 PM
#41
Your Friendly Canadian
Join Date: Dec 2007
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In your weather, you'd be lucky to get a diesel engine to start at all.
01-10-2011, 12:21 PM
#42
Sometimes they don't. When they do, it's not very pleasant for them. Oil heaters, coolant heaters, and air intake heaters can only do so much. In -35 to -45 conditions, better just to leave them run. Diesels will idle contently for weeks.
Terry
01-10-2011, 12:21 PM
#43
SouthernBoy, couple of questions for you.
north east (as you know) is pretty cold right this time of year. i recently moved, and now my work is about 3-5 mins from my house.
i usually start my car, have a smoke (outside of the car), then hop in and keep the rpms relatively low all the way to work. keep in mind, my work is only a few mins away from my house...so i know nothing is fully warmed up in my car by the time i arrive at work.
should i be worried my xlr8 exhaust will flake out prematurely?
should i take the scenic route and hop on the highway for a few minutes each morning, instead of taking the 5 min route?
north east (as you know) is pretty cold right this time of year. i recently moved, and now my work is about 3-5 mins from my house.
i usually start my car, have a smoke (outside of the car), then hop in and keep the rpms relatively low all the way to work. keep in mind, my work is only a few mins away from my house...so i know nothing is fully warmed up in my car by the time i arrive at work.
should i be worried my xlr8 exhaust will flake out prematurely?
should i take the scenic route and hop on the highway for a few minutes each morning, instead of taking the 5 min route?
01-10-2011, 12:36 PM
#44
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
this was never really about money, more about how these short cold trips will effect my car.
1. start car when it's freezing outside
2. drive very short amount of time to work
3. shut off car.
4. me wondering how much my car hates me for doing this.
it's not exactly walking distance, plus it was 20deg this morning and every morning. i also have errands to run after work, so i need my car here.
01-10-2011, 12:45 PM
#45
Your Friendly Canadian
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I meant any damage you cause by driving such a short distance in the cold probably wouldn't be as expensive as the extra gas used to avoid that damage.
01-10-2011, 12:50 PM
#46
Registered Member
alright well i've got the v3 jpipe (rids of 3rd cat), and xlr8 exhaust, no resonators only mufflers.
...so basically what i'm trying to avoid is any wear/tear on my exhaust components. i feel like if i just do the short 3-5 min drive, nothing will be warmed up whatsoever towards the back end of the system. you know what i mean?
i guess i should lengthen my commute some, so that everything gets up to operating temps. i know these short stop n go trips are not the most ideal thing...
...so basically what i'm trying to avoid is any wear/tear on my exhaust components. i feel like if i just do the short 3-5 min drive, nothing will be warmed up whatsoever towards the back end of the system. you know what i mean?
i guess i should lengthen my commute some, so that everything gets up to operating temps. i know these short stop n go trips are not the most ideal thing...
Maryland is in the South, though some of your legislators introduced a resolution recently disclaiming that.... interesting. Most of the local news wogheads refer to our dual metro area as the mid-Atlantic. As a physical designation of types, this is not far off. But as a regional description, you would think they would know better. But then again, these are the same types who don't know the difference between the words "bring" and "take" or how to correctly use them in a sentence.
01-10-2011, 12:53 PM
#47
Registered Member
I would argue the article makes a few generalizations that do not apply to all start up conditions. First off, everyone's interpretation of "cold" and "winter" is different depending where you live and the time of year. For the next few days it will be -35 here, and there is no way I would start one of my vehicles and drive away after a few seconds. I wonder if the author has seen an oil pressure gauge taking a second or two to move and heard a power steering pump squeal away upon a very cold start up. At the other extreme, some of my trucks spike oil pressure at cold start up in winter conditions because the oil is way too thick from being cold. Secondly, as mirror mentioned, idling does not hurt a car equipped with modern fuel injection and electronics. I'm sure many here who commute spend much of their time idling away in traffic. Ten seconds is all you need? There isn't enough time for me to go into the different expansion rate of aluminum pistons and steel cylinder liners. I also think diesel and turbocharged engines, becoming much more common, would need much more than ten seconds.
Personally, I think the article makes some good points, but far too generalized to be taken seriously for all winter conditions.
Terry
Personally, I think the article makes some good points, but far too generalized to be taken seriously for all winter conditions.
Terry
01-10-2011, 01:06 PM
#48
Senior Moderator
Most of that article is BS at best or exaggerating.
I dont think some of the sources have ever seen or driven in cold weather. 10 sec is NOT all you need in some weather. Idling wont hurt anything other than the ozone. Winter time for work, my car NEVER gets shut off other than lunch break (no engine issues period). I will usually let it run a good 10 min before i drive off in the am. Ever hear all the components in a car in -20 weather? Moan and Groan, 10 sec isnt enough.
I agree 100%
I dont think some of the sources have ever seen or driven in cold weather. 10 sec is NOT all you need in some weather. Idling wont hurt anything other than the ozone. Winter time for work, my car NEVER gets shut off other than lunch break (no engine issues period). I will usually let it run a good 10 min before i drive off in the am. Ever hear all the components in a car in -20 weather? Moan and Groan, 10 sec isnt enough.
I would argue the article makes a few generalizations that do not apply to all start up conditions. First off, everyone's interpretation of "cold" and "winter" is different depending where you live and the time of year. For the next few days it will be -35 here, and there is no way I would start one of my vehicles and drive away after a few seconds. I wonder if the author has seen an oil pressure gauge taking a second or two to move and heard a power steering pump squeal away upon a very cold start up. At the other extreme, some of my trucks spike oil pressure at cold start up in winter conditions because the oil is way too thick from being cold. Secondly, as mirror mentioned, idling does not hurt a car equipped with modern fuel injection and electronics. I'm sure many here who commute spend much of their time idling away in traffic. Ten seconds is all you need? There isn't enough time for me to go into the different expansion rate of aluminum pistons and steel cylinder liners. I also think diesel and turbocharged engines, becoming much more common, would need much more than ten seconds.
Personally, I think the article makes some good points, but far too generalized to be taken seriously for all winter conditions.
Terry
Personally, I think the article makes some good points, but far too generalized to be taken seriously for all winter conditions.
Terry
01-10-2011, 01:08 PM
#49
Senior Moderator
Because the motor is still turning the trans/gears and pumping the fluid thus heating the fluid. Just because you arent moving dosnt mean that nothing isnt moving. Also many cars have warmers on them (many hondas have radiator coolant that helps warm the trans for cold weather)
01-10-2011, 03:34 PM
#50
Someday, an RS6 Avant+
My Subaru, upon start up, goes to 1500 rpm and stays there for about 30 seconds, then is comes down. And my coolant temp gauge has a blue light, letting me know it is not warm. This means no sport# mode for the transmission. So I give it about 30 seconds, then it settles in and off I go.
The coldest we see here is about 50F, so not really a winter thing.
01-10-2011, 04:01 PM
#51
Because the motor is still turning the trans/gears and pumping the fluid thus heating the fluid. Just because you arent moving dosnt mean that nothing isnt moving. Also many cars have warmers on them (many hondas have radiator coolant that helps warm the trans for cold weather)
oil pressure is higher when the engine is cold
01-10-2011, 05:46 PM
#54
Senior Moderator
A diff as in a center or rear diff in something like a AWD or RWD will only get heated by movement. Trans fluid like stated before is being pumped and circulated with the motor running (especially autos)
01-10-2011, 06:48 PM
#55
Trolling Canuckistan
01-10-2011, 08:02 PM
#56
Senior Moderator
Depends on how its designed but most yes. They are spinning as well as the clutch isnt depressed. Manuals are a little less effected any way as they are gear on gear mesh. They dont have the fluid pressure like autos and multiple clutchplates that need the fluid to get to them right away.
01-10-2011, 09:09 PM
#57
Suzuka Master
I live in socal, most of the cold starts for me this season is about 45 degrees, I usually let my car warm up 30seconds to a minute, sometimes longer if I am loading the car or something.
So I'm gonna guess and say in my location I dont need a much needed warm up? What I do will suffice, or should I warm the car up a little longer?
So I'm gonna guess and say in my location I dont need a much needed warm up? What I do will suffice, or should I warm the car up a little longer?
01-11-2011, 01:52 PM
#58
Senior Moderator
I live in socal, most of the cold starts for me this season is about 45 degrees, I usually let my car warm up 30seconds to a minute, sometimes longer if I am loading the car or something.
So I'm gonna guess and say in my location I dont need a much needed warm up? What I do will suffice, or should I warm the car up a little longer?
So I'm gonna guess and say in my location I dont need a much needed warm up? What I do will suffice, or should I warm the car up a little longer?
01-11-2011, 02:52 PM
#59
I let my S4 idle for a minute or so before I take off. The 4.2L V8 has a timing chain instead of a belt. Between the chain tensioners and the chain is essentially a plastic guide that is sometimes prone to failure (check this out: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...build-Pictures). By keeping the RPMs low and letting oil properly circulate through the chain, it is my belief that the guides will last a little longer. It's around $5000 to pull the motor and fix all the broken bits; I'll take my chances and let it idle for a bit.
All of my others cars I just stick into gear and go.
All of my others cars I just stick into gear and go.
01-11-2011, 03:37 PM
#60
mmmmmm....
My Subaru, upon start up, goes to 1500 rpm and stays there for about 30 seconds, then is comes down. And my coolant temp gauge has a blue light, letting me know it is not warm. This means no sport# mode for the transmission. So I give it about 30 seconds, then it settles in and off I go.
The coldest we see here is about 50F, so not really a winter thing.
01-11-2011, 05:48 PM
#62
Senior Moderator
I wonder sometimes too. As far as warming up a car goes, newer cars are designed to run rich for the first few minutes to dump extra fuel on the catalysts so they can warm up faster and help reduce toxins. This is why you see the car rev at 1500 or so RPM's and then drop to around 1000.
I find that if I turn on my car, set HVAC, get out and check tires and body, get back in, turn on radio and but on my seatbelt that the car is more than likely ready to go. Adding on to that, driving easy for the first few minutes is also good. Then again, that' usually in lower temps like the 40's. If it's colder I usually let it sit for about a minute and then get going.
01-12-2011, 01:36 AM
#63
S E L L
My TL is garaged so I just get in the car, press the garage door opener, start the car. When the door is fully open I pull out, close the garage door and then drive off. Altogether that probably takes about 30 seconds.
01-12-2011, 09:18 AM
#65
Not Registered
When I had my Corvette, all the vette guys said to not go under heavy throttle until the car was warm because of the thermostat was not open and causes pressure in the lines since the loop is closed. Also, will wear out your water pump faster and when an LT1 water pump goes out it ruins the electronic distribution system below it.
01-12-2011, 10:27 AM
#66
Three Wheelin'
in the summer when the temp is 80+, i do the same...just start it and go.
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