civicdrivr's Z3 thread
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From: Waffles, BU
I know other fields are not like this, but MEs actually come out of school with some useful knowledge
Story of my life....
Congrats on the S!!!
Thats actually one of the options. I have OCD though, so it has to be done right - ex: The electronic power steering must be retained (CAN system). AC must be retained (CAN system). Gauge cluster functionality must be retained (CAN system). There's a lot of stuff that I want to work that ties into the CAN system, which is a MAJOR headache to accomplish - but I believe it can be done and I'm pressing on one of the companies that I plan to go with for engine management to assist in the solution (they already have a full standalone for the FA20 that is CAN capable).
That's another option. Might cost about the same as a swap when all is said and done as I'd be overbuilding the engine and fueling system.
Seems to be a weak link.
Same motor - FA20.
The FB20 and FA20 are about as similar as a C32A and a C32B (re: not at all).
I appreciate the response, and as I said, I am definitely not an engineer.
I do have a few quick notes:
-The rod sheared; it did not bend or buckle - I really wish I got a p
-The engine saw 9psi only only 9psi (data logged). The FA20 has been able to support a sustained 18psi without popping.
-This particular engine has shown issues on that same cylinder, prior to boost (I know, I know, why did I boost it then.....)
Ultimately, I really appreciate your engineering point of few on this. I wish I had the entire motor here so I could take it apart and photograph it bit by bit, but I don't have that option.
It was a rough 1.5 weeks for me. My brother let me borrow his car the first two days, then the following week I'd have to drop him off at work at 730a (he had just started a new job when this happened), then I'd go into work 3 hours early, skip lunch, leave at 4pm to pick him up, drop him off at his house and then go back to work for a few more hours. It was rough, and he helped me out big time during that period.
That's another option. Might cost about the same as a swap when all is said and done as I'd be overbuilding the engine and fueling system.
Seems to be a weak link.
Those connecting rods buckled under compression, not tension. The amount of tension on a connecting rod is nothing compared to the compression it sees. The elongation of the wrist pin hole is not a clear indicator of tension, because the same thing could happen under too much compression. There is also no "necking" on the rod, meaning the rod would have gotten thinner at the break point. It looks like it just sheared/buckled under compression.
My theory is that after the connecting rod buckled. The piston was free to shoot back out and hit the valves (you can see the imprints on the piston head). The piston was then was blasted back in towards the broken rod and crankshaft, shattering the connecting point for the rod on the bottom of the piston, and finally cracking the piston head outwards.
Simply put, you put too much boost through an engine that was clearly not designed for it. There's a reason people swap in forged internals before going forced induction.
Now this doesn't change what happened, but I wanted to bring this to your attention so you don't go around telling everyone you "stretched" a connecting rod. Good luck with the car. Hope everything works out in the end
Source: myself and two colleagues, 4+ years each in Mechanical Engineering field
My theory is that after the connecting rod buckled. The piston was free to shoot back out and hit the valves (you can see the imprints on the piston head). The piston was then was blasted back in towards the broken rod and crankshaft, shattering the connecting point for the rod on the bottom of the piston, and finally cracking the piston head outwards.
Simply put, you put too much boost through an engine that was clearly not designed for it. There's a reason people swap in forged internals before going forced induction.
Now this doesn't change what happened, but I wanted to bring this to your attention so you don't go around telling everyone you "stretched" a connecting rod. Good luck with the car. Hope everything works out in the end
Source: myself and two colleagues, 4+ years each in Mechanical Engineering field
I do have a few quick notes:
-The rod sheared; it did not bend or buckle - I really wish I got a p
-The engine saw 9psi only only 9psi (data logged). The FA20 has been able to support a sustained 18psi without popping.
-This particular engine has shown issues on that same cylinder, prior to boost (I know, I know, why did I boost it then.....)
Ultimately, I really appreciate your engineering point of few on this. I wish I had the entire motor here so I could take it apart and photograph it bit by bit, but I don't have that option.
It was a rough 1.5 weeks for me. My brother let me borrow his car the first two days, then the following week I'd have to drop him off at work at 730a (he had just started a new job when this happened), then I'd go into work 3 hours early, skip lunch, leave at 4pm to pick him up, drop him off at his house and then go back to work for a few more hours. It was rough, and he helped me out big time during that period.
thanks, man. I'm very happy with it. 
Is there any particular reason why you went with that supercharger? I've been lurking on ft86 forum, there's like 20 brands that make pretty good turbocharger/supercharger kits for FRS/BRZ.
Crazy.
I'm interested in AVO turbo kit. It's like $3800. Seems pretty good for what it is.
Crazy.
I'm interested in AVO turbo kit. It's like $3800. Seems pretty good for what it is.
Last edited by JS + XES; Dec 26, 2013 at 05:22 PM.
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Is there any particular reason why you went with that supercharger? I've been lurking on ft86 forum, there's like 20 brands that make pretty good turbocharger/supercharger kits for FRS/BRZ.
Crazy.
I'm interested in AVO turbo kit. It's like $3800. Seems pretty good for what it is.
Crazy.
I'm interested in AVO turbo kit. It's like $3800. Seems pretty good for what it is.
when the engine loses a rod.
Is there any particular reason why you went with that supercharger? I've been lurking on ft86 forum, there's like 20 brands that make pretty good turbocharger/supercharger kits for FRS/BRZ.
Crazy.
I'm interested in AVO turbo kit. It's like $3800. Seems pretty good for what it is.
Crazy.
I'm interested in AVO turbo kit. It's like $3800. Seems pretty good for what it is.
I didn't want to go turbo due to stress. The centrifugal supercharger slowly builds boost and rpms increase, while the AVO kit (which I honestly really liked) builds boost low and puts a lot of stress on the internals. There have been some talk here and there about the oil pump in this engine being variable rate depending on RPM; which, if true, could be problematic when additional stress is introduced at lower rpms.
Then again, looking at the motor the wrong way could be problematic as well
There might be a few people in the Mojave that are interested in a Mazdaspeed 3 rally car.
So, I washed it for the first time since "The Incident". The taillight has had condensation in it since Thanksgiving and I was tired of dealing with the dealership for replacements. So I went a different direction.
I ordered the Tom's clear USDM tails back in November, they were sitting around waiting for me to get off my ass to install, which I finally did last Sunday.
Here they are in action compared to stock.
In order of appearance - brake light; turn signal and brake light; turn signal, brake light and running light; turn signal and running light; running light.
I also ordered these JDM 86 replica headlights in December, but after installing the taillights, I'm thinking about going with the BRZ headlights instead as they have a similar light tube look that the tails do.
Thoughts?
I ordered the Tom's clear USDM tails back in November, they were sitting around waiting for me to get off my ass to install, which I finally did last Sunday.
Here they are in action compared to stock.
In order of appearance - brake light; turn signal and brake light; turn signal, brake light and running light; turn signal and running light; running light.
I also ordered these JDM 86 replica headlights in December, but after installing the taillights, I'm thinking about going with the BRZ headlights instead as they have a similar light tube look that the tails do.
Thoughts?
Woah! I thought those tailights are solid red outside!?
That looks really good on your color! I'm going to get a solid red one for mine. Quoted 450 shipped from one of the vendors at ft86.
Looks awesome!
That looks really good on your color! I'm going to get a solid red one for mine. Quoted 450 shipped from one of the vendors at ft86.
Looks awesome!
Your Friendly Canadian
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Toronto, Ontario
Love the tails. If I were you I'd throw in LED license plate bulbs, just to complete the rear end lighting.
Is there a significant performance/output difference between the replica 86 and the BRZ headlights?
Is there a significant performance/output difference between the replica 86 and the BRZ headlights?
Performance wise, the BRZ headlights are better. For one, they are HID from the factory and use the same bixenon projectors that are used in the RX350; which, after a lens swap, are an amazing projector (I have a pair that were going into the CL). The replicas are halogen and made to be plug and play with the FR-S - so my plan was to swap the RX350 bixenons into them. And since they aren't exact replicas (the housing is all chrome vs certain areas being black), my plan was to paint them while they were open.
But, take a look at the light tube in the BRZ headlights. It's a perfect match to the Tom's tails, so I'm going to sell the replicas and source a set of BRZ lights. Unfortunately, it won't be an immediate thing as the BRZ lights are still expensive
takin care of Business in
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From: Kansas City, MO
Morgi, I love them lights....
I local guy has the same lights and I was hoping you would go that route but I didnt know if that was the ricer in me talking and I guess it wasnt
Looks SICK brothaa
I local guy has the same lights and I was hoping you would go that route but I didnt know if that was the ricer in me talking and I guess it wasnt
Looks SICK brothaa
I've got another mod that I need to stop being lazy and install....
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Joined: Sep 2008
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Looks great, Morgan. Solid choice.
Now that you're not going to need the 2 oem fishtanks, you think about cutting them open or having Bruce cut them open to see about oem tail modding potential?
Now that you're not going to need the 2 oem fishtanks, you think about cutting them open or having Bruce cut them open to see about oem tail modding potential?
I've thought about it. But I need to come up with a solid design plan before proceeding.