B16A vs.B18C
#1
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B16A vs.B18C
I have been doing research for quite some time on what to drop into a 1990 CRX I picked up as a project car. I know this isn't a CRX forum, but I've seen that many here know a bunch about these engines. Any input? HMO would probably be my source
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...0Engines&hit=0
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...0Engines&hit=0
#2
For the cost-effectiveness of swaps in Hondas, you're almost better off getting a K20 instead. With the flexibility of the K-Pro setup from Hondata and the abundance of great parts, you can get a lot quicker through the 1320 for not much more initial investment. So you may pay a little more for the motor/tranny initially. You'll sure see the gain when your buddy with his B-series has to keep staring at your taillights.
#3
would the k20 fit? are the mounting points for tranny, etc the same? i would think there would have to be a lot of work done to make it fit, but im not that well versed with the CRX.
#7
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Originally Posted by Edr0e
The k20a DOES NOT CLEAR THE STOCK HOOD. It is several inches tall. I am also doing the CRX project thing
I have a b18c1 but no crx... Im itching to spend some of my savings on that jdm k20.
I have a b18c1 but no crx... Im itching to spend some of my savings on that jdm k20.
I have a CRX but no B18
Sorry for the ambiguity of the first post. I am in school and could not get my point across since I was in the tutoring center. I have about $1,000 ready to go, and am hoping to generate about $2,000 by June to add on to that. Coupled with some odd jobs and selling various items (like my old TV, computer, etc) and a generous loan from my father, who likes the idea now, I should have about $4,000 ready.
The JDM B16 has 170 HP with 113 Lb./Ft. of Torque. The JDM B18C has 180/126. It costs about $1,000 more depending on where you go. The K20 would be ideal, but it will not fit without more modding and it does cost a little too much for me.
I want a car that will take me 0-60 in around 5.5 seconds, ideally I'd want the fastest bang for my buck obviously. Also, I'm assuming that installation will cost around $1,000, and various fitment items will cost $500. Will I need a new suspension setup? New fuel injection system? All this is an assumed "yes".
Thanks for any input, I appreciate it. FYI, the JDM B16A seems like the better choice right now, unless I find a bargain of a B18C.
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#8
SIDENOTE: WOW!! The JDM B18C5 still fetches a [showage]pretty penny[/showage].
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...age&item=30010
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...age&item=30010
#9
^-no shit. i sold my old jdmb18c(5) for 5k less the power steering pump and a/c unit. its insane how freaking expensive they still are
as for putting the b16 in over the b18 or visa versa i would probably side with the b16. i dont know too much about the swaps going into the crx but a few of my friends were breaking a shitload of axles when they had the b18c's in their civic hatches. i tried to stay away from getting too involved in their motor swaps so i dont know exactly what their setups were but most of the time they wound up putting in another civic engine.
as for putting the b16 in over the b18 or visa versa i would probably side with the b16. i dont know too much about the swaps going into the crx but a few of my friends were breaking a shitload of axles when they had the b18c's in their civic hatches. i tried to stay away from getting too involved in their motor swaps so i dont know exactly what their setups were but most of the time they wound up putting in another civic engine.
#11
Originally Posted by gocubsgo55
I have a CRX but no B18
Sorry for the ambiguity of the first post. I am in school and could not get my point across since I was in the tutoring center. I have about $1,000 ready to go, and am hoping to generate about $2,000 by June to add on to that. Coupled with some odd jobs and selling various items (like my old TV, computer, etc) and a generous loan from my father, who likes the idea now, I should have about $4,000 ready.
The JDM B16 has 170 HP with 113 Lb./Ft. of Torque. The JDM B18C has 180/126. It costs about $1,000 more depending on where you go. The K20 would be ideal, but it will not fit without more modding and it does cost a little too much for me.
I want a car that will take me 0-60 in around 5.5 seconds, ideally I'd want the fastest bang for my buck obviously. Also, I'm assuming that installation will cost around $1,000, and various fitment items will cost $500. Will I need a new suspension setup? New fuel injection system? All this is an assumed "yes".
Thanks for any input, I appreciate it. FYI, the JDM B16A seems like the better choice right now, unless I find a bargain of a B18C.
Sorry for the ambiguity of the first post. I am in school and could not get my point across since I was in the tutoring center. I have about $1,000 ready to go, and am hoping to generate about $2,000 by June to add on to that. Coupled with some odd jobs and selling various items (like my old TV, computer, etc) and a generous loan from my father, who likes the idea now, I should have about $4,000 ready.
The JDM B16 has 170 HP with 113 Lb./Ft. of Torque. The JDM B18C has 180/126. It costs about $1,000 more depending on where you go. The K20 would be ideal, but it will not fit without more modding and it does cost a little too much for me.
I want a car that will take me 0-60 in around 5.5 seconds, ideally I'd want the fastest bang for my buck obviously. Also, I'm assuming that installation will cost around $1,000, and various fitment items will cost $500. Will I need a new suspension setup? New fuel injection system? All this is an assumed "yes".
Thanks for any input, I appreciate it. FYI, the JDM B16A seems like the better choice right now, unless I find a bargain of a B18C.
Given everything you said I would say the B16, cheaper up front so you can get it in and running with your budget (the budget ALWAYS gets blown on swaps) then you can mod it to the point you are happy when you have the cash.
#12
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The B16A swap seems a lot more likely now. Does anyone here have an idea of what these things could have me running? 170/113 JDM B16A2. I'm sure the 180/126 JDM B18C1 would be faster, but perhaps some cheaper mods can get me right where I'd want to be.
#13
teh Senior Instigator
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From: Huntington Beach, CA -> Ashburn, VA -> Raleigh, NC -> Walnut Creek, CA
screw the K20, too expensive, you can get B series dirt cheap and buy used parts for it all day long. A fully built B series will get you a stock K20
#14
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Just got off the phone with One 6 Motorsport (a very respectable shop in the Chicagoland area), he said he'd be capable of setting everything up for me; he just needs the engine. He said a B16 would get me in the 14s, a B18 in the 13s. Just a matter of what I want to spend. We shall see where I am financially in 2-3 months, and whether I want to compete with 350Zs or Z06s
#16
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yeah. although a k20 is the best solution, i just don't want to spend the money for it. Now, if I get one for $3,000, in fully operatable condition, I'm all over it, right now. Problem is fitting it in, it's not as easy as a B16 or B18, which are simply larger versions of the B15 already in my car.
#17
Good luck with that project
So I take it you are going to be all motor. What are your goals as far as horsepower?
B18B block with B18C1 or B16 head. Referred to as a LS/VTEC, you take a stock LS block and put the GSR or B16 head on it. The reason for this? The LS is actually a slightly larger block than a GSR, this makes more torque, but it doesn’t rev as freely as a VTEC head. So you’re getting the best of both worlds. One of the drawbacks is now you have a top end that’s rev happy but a bottom end that wasn’t designed to rev that high, so many people bulletproof the bottom end before tackling this.
And if you can't afford a b18c1 just get the b17 DOHC 1.7 VTEC. Hp is similar to the B16 at 160 but tq is better at 117. A predecessor to the B18C1, there aren’t many out there. If you do find one, they are typically with higher miles but they are significantly cheaper than the newer GSR engines
So I take it you are going to be all motor. What are your goals as far as horsepower?
B18B block with B18C1 or B16 head. Referred to as a LS/VTEC, you take a stock LS block and put the GSR or B16 head on it. The reason for this? The LS is actually a slightly larger block than a GSR, this makes more torque, but it doesn’t rev as freely as a VTEC head. So you’re getting the best of both worlds. One of the drawbacks is now you have a top end that’s rev happy but a bottom end that wasn’t designed to rev that high, so many people bulletproof the bottom end before tackling this.
And if you can't afford a b18c1 just get the b17 DOHC 1.7 VTEC. Hp is similar to the B16 at 160 but tq is better at 117. A predecessor to the B18C1, there aren’t many out there. If you do find one, they are typically with higher miles but they are significantly cheaper than the newer GSR engines
#18
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Edr0e, I'm considering getting a B16A and using a couple hundred on simple things like exhaust, CAI, maybe an ECU upgrade? I'm assuming I also need a new suspension to handle this as well.
#19
Good thing about the REX. Parts are dirt cheap
My buddy slapped on my gsr suspension into his 94 EG hatchback civic when he got his gsr/type r motor. i don't see why not.
Civic Type R motor . That is going to be a fun build. Remember try to stick with OEM parts (for reliability).
My buddy slapped on my gsr suspension into his 94 EG hatchback civic when he got his gsr/type r motor. i don't see why not.
Civic Type R motor . That is going to be a fun build. Remember try to stick with OEM parts (for reliability).
#22
Go with a b16, and upgrade the front suspension and drivetrain. Get stronger axles and such. Once you are done with that project, then add some forced induction, and you'd be a beast. Going with the K series will be sweet as hell, but it will cause stress on your drivetrain in the crx. Do it right and do it once. Build up the the support, then add the power. Any other way, unless you baby it, will cost you when you start braking shit.
#23
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I think I will be going with the B16 unless I want to really work hard and put in the B18. It will be a B-Series engine for sure. Turbocharging it is not really in the near future, that would have to wait. However, I will be going to college this summer, so income would be halted fast. This is why I am considering working a lot of hours while I'm in my senior year and investing in a B18.
Does anybody know an estimated 0-60 or 1/4 time on a B16 CRX? A B18 CRX? I know the B16 would cost $3,000 total, and the B18 $5,000 total, so I'm trying to justify the price of either one.
Does anybody know an estimated 0-60 or 1/4 time on a B16 CRX? A B18 CRX? I know the B16 would cost $3,000 total, and the B18 $5,000 total, so I'm trying to justify the price of either one.
#27
As far as handling and autocrossing I think you would prefer the B16b (civic typer) for power to weight ratio.
B16B Specs (Japan)
1997-2000 Civic Type-R
Displacement: 1595 cm3
Compression: 10.8:1
Power: 184 hp (137 kW) @ 8200 rpm & 118 ft·lbf (160 N·m) @ 7500 rpm
Transmission: S4C
Remember if that is not enough displacement and torque, theres always TODA and Spoon stroker kits which increase displacement from 1600cc to 1820cc (Basically a b18). here -
http://www.inlinefour.com/spoon18lstro.html
http://www.modacar.com/products/Hond...K/stroker.html
Type R pistons rods, Type R cams stay OEM !!!
B16B Specs (Japan)
1997-2000 Civic Type-R
Displacement: 1595 cm3
Compression: 10.8:1
Power: 184 hp (137 kW) @ 8200 rpm & 118 ft·lbf (160 N·m) @ 7500 rpm
Transmission: S4C
Remember if that is not enough displacement and torque, theres always TODA and Spoon stroker kits which increase displacement from 1600cc to 1820cc (Basically a b18). here -
http://www.inlinefour.com/spoon18lstro.html
http://www.modacar.com/products/Hond...K/stroker.html
Type R pistons rods, Type R cams stay OEM !!!
#28
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Edroe, I'm getting the B16A from the old SiR, not the B16B.
But that might all change, since at this point I'm really leaning toward either an H22 or B18B Block + B18C/ B16 Head ("LS VTEC"), basically a VTEC head.
This research is frustrating, I keep changing my mind. I guess it's all part of learning more about my options.
But that might all change, since at this point I'm really leaning toward either an H22 or B18B Block + B18C/ B16 Head ("LS VTEC"), basically a VTEC head.
This research is frustrating, I keep changing my mind. I guess it's all part of learning more about my options.
#29
The LS VTEC is a good setup to go with...its much easier, in my opinion, to find someone who has already done the head swap so you dont have to deal with all the crap that comes along with it. engine makes good power and runs strong all the way through the rpms.
#31
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(sorry, they wouldn't let me edit my previous post)..
so I'm going to go with 1 of three options
-JDM B16A 170/113 (worse-case scenario, hopefully)
-H22A 200/156 (If I'm power greedy and want it without considering weight)
-USDM B18C1 170/126 (If everything goes very well)
My question is, are JDM engines capable of passing emissions in the US, and, what would you guys do? Thanks for the previous comments, you guys are making this easier for me and I appreciate the input.
so I'm going to go with 1 of three options
-JDM B16A 170/113 (worse-case scenario, hopefully)
-H22A 200/156 (If I'm power greedy and want it without considering weight)
-USDM B18C1 170/126 (If everything goes very well)
My question is, are JDM engines capable of passing emissions in the US, and, what would you guys do? Thanks for the previous comments, you guys are making this easier for me and I appreciate the input.
#33
Originally Posted by Edr0e
Jdm engines do not pass smog. Its really not that hard to find a hookup
and if you cant find a shop to pass it for you just throw on a catalytic converter meant for a 5.7L chevy or something. often the shops wont cross check the aftermerket cat and will let it slide. thats what i wound up doing a few times
#34
It depends on what your budget is... if money is not a issue then you should drop a k20 in there, Hasport has a motor mount for it, it will only cost you a lil bit more the the b18c5, but I think the k20 has a lot more potential. I'm not saying the the B series isn't cool, it's just the the K series motor is the new generation now.
#35
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yeah, problem is that money is an issue. Otherwise, the 220 HP K20 Type-R would be my choice by FAR. That's why I'm debating between the 3 given choices, for the moment.
#36
Originally Posted by datplayaz
It depends on what your budget is... if money is not a issue then you should drop a k20 in there, Hasport has a motor mount for it, it will only cost you a lil bit more the the b18c5, but I think the k20 has a lot more potential. I'm not saying the the B series isn't cool, it's just the the K series motor is the new generation now.
but if you have an option of an H22 that would also be a good choice H22 / K20 / B18 with head swaps are were I WOULD be if given the chance
#38
teh Senior Instigator
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From: Huntington Beach, CA -> Ashburn, VA -> Raleigh, NC -> Walnut Creek, CA
Originally Posted by Edr0e
As far as handling and autocrossing I think you would prefer the B16b (civic typer) for power to weight ratio.
B16B Specs (Japan)
1997-2000 Civic Type-R
Displacement: 1595 cm3
Compression: 10.8:1
Power: 184 hp (137 kW) @ 8200 rpm & 118 ft·lbf (160 N·m) @ 7500 rpm
Transmission: S4C
Remember if that is not enough displacement and torque, theres always TODA and Spoon stroker kits which increase displacement from 1600cc to 1820cc (Basically a b18). here -
http://www.inlinefour.com/spoon18lstro.html
http://www.modacar.com/products/Hond...K/stroker.html
Type R pistons rods, Type R cams stay OEM !!!
B16B Specs (Japan)
1997-2000 Civic Type-R
Displacement: 1595 cm3
Compression: 10.8:1
Power: 184 hp (137 kW) @ 8200 rpm & 118 ft·lbf (160 N·m) @ 7500 rpm
Transmission: S4C
Remember if that is not enough displacement and torque, theres always TODA and Spoon stroker kits which increase displacement from 1600cc to 1820cc (Basically a b18). here -
http://www.inlinefour.com/spoon18lstro.html
http://www.modacar.com/products/Hond...K/stroker.html
Type R pistons rods, Type R cams stay OEM !!!
b16b is what we put in our CRX, thing fuckin rocked
#39
teh Senior Instigator
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Huntington Beach, CA -> Ashburn, VA -> Raleigh, NC -> Walnut Creek, CA
Originally Posted by SanJoseRoller
gutted CRX + H22a4 + Jmag 15" wheels and slicks = fuckin fast
till you try to turn, the h22 is way to much motor (weight) for a CRX unless you only like to go straight
#40
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I'm thinking a B16 for now, then when I get the money, buy that stroker kit somebody posted here. What kind of times can I expect from a JDM B16?
Regarding the H22, exactly how bad is the handling? Is it ok for everyday hard turns? Autocrossing I am assuming SUCKS.
Regarding the H22, exactly how bad is the handling? Is it ok for everyday hard turns? Autocrossing I am assuming SUCKS.