SOLD: FS/TW: COMPTECH SUPERCHARGER KIT with the WORKS!! L@@K!!
11-02-2011, 06:43 AM
#1
FS/TW: COMPTECH SUPERCHARGER KIT with the WORKS!! L@@K!!
Category: Engine - Power Adders
Price: $4200
Private or Vendor Listing: Private Listing
Part Fits (you may select multiples): TL 3G
Location (State/Prov/Terr): CA
Item Condition: Used
a slight retune might be in order, since all cars are not created equal, but that is it. 
heres a list of everything.. the prices are ONLY to show what you would have to spend that is neccessary to make the SC kit truely complete and run as efficiently and reliably as possible.
heres whats included,
-- comptech supercharger kit ($4000)
-- custom alum radiator, made by Griffen (embossed). outlet hose relocated to middle, which will not kink the hose against the blower housing (like stock unit) and also has twice the cooling capacity ($750)
-- AEM fi/c 1910 ($330)
-- AEM extension harness ($125)
-- parts/labor to have harness wired to be 100% PnP and allow full vtec control ($125)
-- rsx-s 310cc injectors ($150-$200)
-- AEM Digital wideband gauge with bosch sensor ($180)
-- AEM Digital boost gauge ($150)
-- AEM Digital oil temp gauge ($150)
-- AEM Digital oil/fuel press gauge ($200)
-- AEM water/meth injection kit ($340)
-- custom SS bracket for meth pump ($50 material/labor)
-- WW resevoir plumbed for meth/water and low level indicator ($50 labor)
-- custom CAI that will accommodate massive 5x9 AEM dryflow filter for maximum performance and not to mention maximum supercharger whine
($110 for tubing, couplings, and filter)-- tune from church auto ($200) same tune ive been running on for over 2 years now.
all the parts listed are in PERFECT working condition. people who know me here and on v 6 p, can vouch how i take great pride in keeping my car in tip top shape both mechanically and cosmetically.. i love the clean look and have all the plumbing done for the meth injection underneath the blower outlet (nozzle and vacuum line) along with the routing of the wires/hoses for the cleanest look possible. like a said, all the work is done for you
the ONLY reason i am parting is yes, i plan on selling the car sometime next year, but most importantly my commute will change from 1.5 miles a day, to 55 miles a day 
starting the 1st of december.. i do have the original airbox to go with it, but i do not have the battery tray. we customized it to fit on the frame rail where (where the battery originally goes) to hold overflow tank, since we did a battery reloction to the rear. you can purchase it from comptech, BUT battery reloction is a must IMO with this kit. the little 51r battery that goes under there is just not enough battery for our cars, especially if your running a sound system. if the battery goes, the supercharger needs to come off each time which can be a real PITA.. sorry for the long post, i just like to be as detailed as possible to cut down on the PM's
im sure theres a few details i missed, but i will update when needed.oh, the ONLY thing i will need back from you is your stock WW resevoir. i also have 6 gallons of the meth mix to throw in the deal
heres a few random pics of blower and meth install.
plumbing for meth injection nozzle and vacuum line (underneath outlet of blower)
AEM pump for meth location with custom SS bracket
picture of custom 5x9 dryflow filter of CAI
here the gauges, but unfortunatly the gauge pod will not work for you TL folks :/
asking price is $4200.00 cash.. which is a STEAL for the kit and everything listed
for now, only looking to sell locally. im located in the 626.
Last edited by 04accordcpe; 11-02-2011 at 06:54 AM.
11-02-2011, 08:46 AM
#3
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
GLWS buddy...wish i was ready to buy this now...
wanna hold it til tax time?
wanna hold it til tax time?
11-02-2011, 12:57 PM
#4
knew i forgot something. you guys want to see #'s
here are the dyno graphs for the current tune i have now.
347hp/300tq
look at the hp curve, no dips, or valleys, just straight up all the way to redline. very very smooth power delivery a/f ratio 11.5 thoughout the poweband at WOT.
@ ONLY 4psi MAX boost
as you can see, only hits 4psi tops, but mostly in the 3-3.5 range, which is VERY easy on our stock high compression engines. never felt the need to switch to the HBP ever..
here are the dyno graphs for the current tune i have now.
347hp/300tq
look at the hp curve, no dips, or valleys, just straight up all the way to redline. very very smooth power delivery
a/f ratio 11.5 thoughout the poweband at WOT. @ ONLY 4psi MAX boost
as you can see, only hits 4psi tops, but mostly in the 3-3.5 range, which is VERY easy on our stock high compression engines. never felt the need to switch to the HBP ever..
Last edited by 04accordcpe; 11-02-2011 at 12:59 PM.
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11-04-2011, 01:04 PM
#13
its obvious you guys need to do your homework and educate yourselves on the different type of dyno machines out there. unlike roller machines such as the dynojet, mustang dyno, and dynodynamics, the dynopack requires the wheels to be taken off. 1. because it is a lot safer and dont have to worry about your car flying off, 2. the dynopack allows the tuner to add load to the machine, rather than just spin on a couple of drum rollers for a much more accurate real world tune. so in theory its more like hp "to the hubs" and does minus the weight of the wheels, BUT adding the load makes up for that 5% or so loss from removing the wheels and not to mention their is also a decrease in true hp #'s due to the heatsoaking from being on the machine for an hour worth of tuning..
case and point, my very first tune was with my original j30a4 engine. after an hour on the dynopack and final tune, it read 306hp.. two months later on a dynojet, car cool, first run ran a 308hp.. thats 2 more hp than it read on the dynopack
understand? besides, you dont trap consistant 108-109mph trap speeds in the 1/4 at only 300whp lolwish i could ken, but really trying to sell the kit as a whole for now. i have a few bites for the entire kit already and dont think people realize what a bargain this deal is if they are serious about SCing their car the right way. there isnt a stone unturned when it comes to this kit.
Last edited by 04accordcpe; 11-04-2011 at 01:10 PM.
11-04-2011, 01:30 PM
#14
wow... i expected more from a couple of guys who are boosted :/
its obvious you guys need to do your homework and educate yourselves on the different type of dyno machines out there. unlike roller machines such as the dynojet, mustang dyno, and dynodynamics, the dynopack requires the wheels to be taken off. 1. because it is a lot safer and dont have to worry about your car flying off, 2. the dynopack allows the tuner to add load to the machine, rather than just spin on a couple of drum rollers for a much more accurate real world tune. so in theory its more like hp "to the hubs" and does minus the weight of the wheels, BUT adding the load makes up for that 5% or so loss from removing the wheels and not to mention their is also a decrease in true hp #'s due to the heatsoaking from being on the machine for an hour worth of tuning..
case and point, my very first tune was with my original j30a4 engine. after an hour on the dynopack and final tune, it read 306hp.. two months later on a dynojet, car cool, first run ran a 308hp.. thats 2 more hp than it read on the dynopack understand? besides, you dont trap consistant 108-109mph trap speeds in the 1/4 at only 300whp lol
its obvious you guys need to do your homework and educate yourselves on the different type of dyno machines out there. unlike roller machines such as the dynojet, mustang dyno, and dynodynamics, the dynopack requires the wheels to be taken off. 1. because it is a lot safer and dont have to worry about your car flying off, 2. the dynopack allows the tuner to add load to the machine, rather than just spin on a couple of drum rollers for a much more accurate real world tune. so in theory its more like hp "to the hubs" and does minus the weight of the wheels, BUT adding the load makes up for that 5% or so loss from removing the wheels and not to mention their is also a decrease in true hp #'s due to the heatsoaking from being on the machine for an hour worth of tuning..
case and point, my very first tune was with my original j30a4 engine. after an hour on the dynopack and final tune, it read 306hp.. two months later on a dynojet, car cool, first run ran a 308hp.. thats 2 more hp than it read on the dynopack
understand? besides, you dont trap consistant 108-109mph trap speeds in the 1/4 at only 300whp lol
11-04-2011, 11:52 PM
#16
Safety Car
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Dec 2008
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its kool bro. If I had the money I would take it all. The SC itself it worth what your asking. All the extra are just icing on the cake. nom nom nom
Good luck with the sales!
Good luck with the sales!
11-19-2011, 02:14 AM
#26
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
Shame you only want to sell locally. Not sure if I have time to drive down to socal during this month... holidays and all. This is looking very tempting. I have like 0 forced induction knowledge and this seems to require a lot of work. Although I am still pondering. I PM'd you with a quick question.
11-23-2011, 12:40 PM
#28
Sorry for the late response, havent logged on in for few days. Been goinggoing backnforth witb a interested local guy the last couple days. All pm's were answered.
The supercharger kit is sale pending to the same guy for now, but will let u guys know if it falls through..
The supercharger kit is sale pending to the same guy for now, but will let u guys know if it falls through..
11-25-2011, 05:28 PM
#29
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Are you sure you arent willing to ship it? I have been looking for something to up my car even more
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