Pix from Infected Mushroom (srika's club pics thread)
#281
Earth-bound misfit
I thought the vent was what determined your crop!
#282
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
haha, i know, its terrible, lol... id like to think i SAW it once, then never saw it again..
#283
Senior Moderator
#284
Big Block go VROOOM!
While the good bits are certainly the most fun in real life, I don't think they're adding a whole lot to this particular image. My two suggestions:
1) set the bottom of the crop just below the girl's left hand. It will act sort of like a visual tease that the good bits are down there just below the frame.
2) Drop the background into darkness so that the girl and the light really stand out. This would be one of the few "acceptable" uses for a brightness/contrast adjustment layer. You'll need to do a layer mask of course to keep the girl and the light from being darkened as well.
1) set the bottom of the crop just below the girl's left hand. It will act sort of like a visual tease that the good bits are down there just below the frame.
2) Drop the background into darkness so that the girl and the light really stand out. This would be one of the few "acceptable" uses for a brightness/contrast adjustment layer. You'll need to do a layer mask of course to keep the girl and the light from being darkened as well.
#285
Big Block go VROOOM!
Quick hack n' slash version of what I was talking about. You can see that the selection around the girl would take some work, but I think the end result would be worth it.
#286
Senior Moderator
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I see where you're going with it but I think the background lighting is a part of the mood of the pic. Also, I think its already not entirely easy to see waist-down, so I think that part is covered.
#287
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Originally Posted by fdl
#288
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hey just curious, did you mention what kind of set up you use? i know you use a 5D but what about lenses, flash? any type of flash bracket, etc?
#289
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Mizouse
hey just curious, did you mention what kind of set up you use? i know you use a 5D but what about lenses, flash? any type of flash bracket, etc?
Last edited by srika; 02-19-2007 at 04:20 PM.
#290
Earth-bound misfit
Originally Posted by srika
I see where you're going with it but I think the background lighting is a part of the mood of the pic. Also, I think its already not entirely easy to see waist-down, so I think that part is covered.
#291
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
btw I went with a crop starting from the bottom-right, cutting out just that pesky vent/light.
#292
Earth-bound misfit
Coolio.
#294
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#296
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Standard setting I use on the 580 is ETTL, -1 1/3 (sometimes vary that, as needed), 1st curtain. Better to underexpose than over. No flash on the last shot - that's why its kinda soft.
#297
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by srika
Standard setting I use on the 580 is ETTL, -1 1/3 (sometimes vary that, as needed), 1st curtain. Better to underexpose than over. No flash on the last shot - that's why its kinda soft.
#298
Senior Moderator
I dont think so danny.
You can recover detail in underexposed areas, but you cant recover detail in overexposed areas. Once its blown out, its gone.
Where slightly overexposing helps is with dealing with noise. At high ISO underexposed shots will look noisey, and bumping up in pp will only make it worse.
You can recover detail in underexposed areas, but you cant recover detail in overexposed areas. Once its blown out, its gone.
Where slightly overexposing helps is with dealing with noise. At high ISO underexposed shots will look noisey, and bumping up in pp will only make it worse.
#299
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Thread Starter
heh as I was typing that I had a ? in my head because I wasn't 100% sure of it myself.. it may be more applicable to low-light situations such as a club, but just from what I've seen, it's easier to recover details from an underexposed shot. What do you think Dan? Does it vary by lighting situation or is there a general rule of thumb.
#302
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by fdl
I dont think so danny.
You can recover detail in underexposed areas, but you cant recover detail in overexposed areas. Once its blown out, its gone.
Where slightly overexposing helps is with dealing with noise. At high ISO underexposed shots will look noisey, and bumping up in pp will only make it worse.
You can recover detail in underexposed areas, but you cant recover detail in overexposed areas. Once its blown out, its gone.
Where slightly overexposing helps is with dealing with noise. At high ISO underexposed shots will look noisey, and bumping up in pp will only make it worse.
#303
Photography Nerd
If you want to maximize the dynamic range of your sensor and minimize the amount of noise, the key is to "expose to the right". The histogram should be bunched to the right side (over exposure) as much as possible, without clipping your highlight detail.
The reason for this is your sensor is not linear in it's response; it's heavily weighted to the right side. There are more levels set aside for highlights than there are for shadows. If you underexpose by a half stop, you're only using about 40% of the sensor's dynamic range, resulting in increased noise and banding when you adjust the levels in post. Your best bet is to slightly overexpose the capture, then drop it down a little in post.
A lof of this is personal preference though. There's the theory, and then there's creativity. Underexposing tends to emphasize saturation, so your style would probably lend itself to a slight underexposure. All you can do is try both techniques to see what works best for you.
The reason for this is your sensor is not linear in it's response; it's heavily weighted to the right side. There are more levels set aside for highlights than there are for shadows. If you underexpose by a half stop, you're only using about 40% of the sensor's dynamic range, resulting in increased noise and banding when you adjust the levels in post. Your best bet is to slightly overexpose the capture, then drop it down a little in post.
A lof of this is personal preference though. There's the theory, and then there's creativity. Underexposing tends to emphasize saturation, so your style would probably lend itself to a slight underexposure. All you can do is try both techniques to see what works best for you.
#304
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by danny25
That's true, if something is completely blown out, you'll get no detail. I think it was referring to non extremes though, like overexposed 1 f-stop > underexposed 1 f-stop.
#305
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Dan Martin
Your best bet is to slightly overexpose the capture, then drop it down a little in post.
#307
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Lister00169
Excellent pics srika! I am waiting for the day when point and shoots can take pics that vibrant
#308
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
btw I reckon I need to start using that histogram thingy.. would be a good way to combat the innaccuracy of the LCD.. and since it shows clipping, you know how over you can go...
#309
I miss my 03 CL-S :(
I ran into this guy's blog... check out this entry:
http://electrohippy.livejournal.com/...tml?mode=reply
I really like how that first wide shot is lit - looks like it's a still from a movie.
Check out his previous entries as well - there are some nice non-club photos.
http://electrohippy.livejournal.com/...tml?mode=reply
I really like how that first wide shot is lit - looks like it's a still from a movie.
Check out his previous entries as well - there are some nice non-club photos.
#310
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Yea thats some nice lighting. Also like the 2nd shot. While we are on the topic of other links, check this out:
http://www.clubplanet.com/Articles/1...kes-Vegas-Sexy
god I wish I could quit my dayjob and do this full-time.
http://www.clubplanet.com/Articles/1...kes-Vegas-Sexy
god I wish I could quit my dayjob and do this full-time.
#312
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Thread Starter
thanks for having a look!
here's one I liked from Armin van Buuren this past Saturday.
here's one I liked from Armin van Buuren this past Saturday.
#313
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#315
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yea I turned up the heat a bit..
#316
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#317
Moderator Alumnus
okay, stupid question, in that sort of lighting, how do you prevent getting totally owned by long shutter speeds?
Like I was at this dance thing, and I was shooting people.
I was using my 20mm at F1.8, ISO 400 and my shutter was bouncing between 1/8 to 1/10 and that was with internal flash on. Both pics were bleh due to motion blur.
Now, why is the shutter so freakin' long with flash on? Internal flash issue? How
do you get around this sort of thing? Crank up ISO? Shoot in manual? (I usually shoot in A).
I totally suck at night/flash shots. I need to study up on this.
Like I was at this dance thing, and I was shooting people.
I was using my 20mm at F1.8, ISO 400 and my shutter was bouncing between 1/8 to 1/10 and that was with internal flash on. Both pics were bleh due to motion blur.
Now, why is the shutter so freakin' long with flash on? Internal flash issue? How
do you get around this sort of thing? Crank up ISO? Shoot in manual? (I usually shoot in A).
I totally suck at night/flash shots. I need to study up on this.
#318
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Well the trick is, light. I know, shocking. The shot above, it was a sequence of burst shots while the massive strobes at the back of the room were going on. While those are on, you are golden (assuming you have the shutter open for the correct amt of time). It's also lot of times a question of luck in regard to timing. I use burst a lot (and keep in mind this is on the slow 5D) and manage to get at least a few really good shots when the strobes and other lights are on. But sometimes lighting will be great and I will get crap shots. I've held the camera steady, I don't know how that happens.
Unfortunately I don't have a lot of experience shooting at anything faster than f/4 - but that 1.8 *should* have been ridiculous in the club, just based on what I know about the numbers. Ohhh.. I think Manual is very necessary in these situations. Usually when I see the massive strobes come on I'll quickly set the shutter somewhere between 1/25 to 1/40 (I usually am at 1/3 to 1/6 or so) and burst. You can do it with the other modes but you'll have a better success rate if you use manual, imo.
Unfortunately I don't have a lot of experience shooting at anything faster than f/4 - but that 1.8 *should* have been ridiculous in the club, just based on what I know about the numbers. Ohhh.. I think Manual is very necessary in these situations. Usually when I see the massive strobes come on I'll quickly set the shutter somewhere between 1/25 to 1/40 (I usually am at 1/3 to 1/6 or so) and burst. You can do it with the other modes but you'll have a better success rate if you use manual, imo.
#319
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
a few more from Armin.
#320
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
btw here's the EXIF from the wide strobe shot at the top (post #312)... since the EXIF seems to have been erased somehow...
Image Date: 2007:03:11 02:21:12
Flash Used: No
Focal Length: 24.0mm
CCD Width: NaNmm
Exposure Time: 0.040 s (1/25)
Aperture: f/5.0
ISO equiv: 500
White Balance: Auto
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: Manual
Exposure Mode: Manual
Image Date: 2007:03:11 02:21:12
Flash Used: No
Focal Length: 24.0mm
CCD Width: NaNmm
Exposure Time: 0.040 s (1/25)
Aperture: f/5.0
ISO equiv: 500
White Balance: Auto
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: Manual
Exposure Mode: Manual