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and thanks to mizouse for letting me know that the 1.4x TC (which I already have) will fit on the 17mm TSE making it a 24mm. And apparently the performance in this configuration might even be better than the 24mm TSE. Have a look:
So my EF-S 17-55 2.8 has become dusty to the point where it's not usable. I'm not about to try to clean it myself. Has anyone sent a lens back to Canon for cleaning? Is that $250? What was the turn around time?
Anyone know of any shops in the DC area that could do it?
Have a beach trip coming up and would like to rent a lens for the week. Curious what you would recommend.
Last year I tried a wide angle and would like to try something different.
No real plans for pics. If I knew we would be near a place to see wildlife, a telezoom would be nice, but I'm thinking a fast prime or "standard" zoom would be better.
I have a Canon 70D w/ 18-135, 50 1.8, and 70-300 (non L). I plan to bring my tripod along as well.
When birds are flying I shoot hand held or sometimes use the head below. However when I go to get the eagles this fall, for dedicated flight shots, I'll try the Gimbal.
Both of these are with the Sigma and ON the ball head above:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/petshots/20081843628/in/dateposted-public/" title="GBH flying c ns0450"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/457/20081843628_e670ea16b4_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="GBH flying c ns0450"></a>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/petshots/20601654235/in/dateposted-public/" title="Ring-billed Gull over the ridge c 0893"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/750/20601654235_b0ed0ed248_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="Ring-billed Gull over the ridge c 0893"></a>
what do you guys think of Sigma 17-50 f2.8? i'm planning to get it for my d5100.
I've never used one. But my advice is to get it from a reputable dealer who has a fair and reasonable return policy such as B&H. That way if you are dissatisfied in anyway, you're only out the return shipping.
Any thought on this lens? It's old and the AF runs a little slow but otherwise it appears to be in good shape. Image quality at full zoom on my t5i is close to the 55-250 EFS I have, maybe not quite a sharp. Would any of that have to do with the FF lens on the crop body? Maybe it could use a service? I took apart the front end of the lens and cleaned what I could before I ever used it.
That lens is usually thrown into package bundles. It does get the focal length as the average consumer would think it's awesome but reality it's slow, variable aperture lens. Hence why some retailers just throw it in. It's more of the lens than the body unless you are using the 5d classic or 5d2 which have pretty bad af.
Any thought on this lens? It's old and the AF runs a little slow but otherwise it appears to be in good shape. Image quality at full zoom on my t5i is close to the 55-250 EFS I have, maybe not quite a sharp. Would any of that have to do with the FF lens on the crop body? Maybe it could use a service? I took apart the front end of the lens and cleaned what I could before I ever used it.
No. It's just a notoriously soft/mediocre lens. Your 55-250 is a vastly superior lens to that one.
Any thought on this lens? It's old and the AF runs a little slow but otherwise it appears to be in good shape. Image quality at full zoom on my t5i is close to the 55-250 EFS I have, maybe not quite a sharp. Would any of that have to do with the FF lens on the crop body? Maybe it could use a service? I took apart the front end of the lens and cleaned what I could before I ever used it.
As said, no. Your camera body is probably fine. If your experience with image quality so far is with the 75-300, you'll sh1t your pants when you try a L series lens. Even the 70-300mm IS will be a SUBSTANTIAL improvement in quality.
Thanks guys. I didn't buy the 75-300. My friend gave it to me. When I needed a zoom a couple years back I bought the 55-250, pretty much because it was good bang for the buck and pttl had taken some photos with his that looked amazing. It is way faster, has IS and has better image quality (than the 75-300), fo sho. I took the 300 out to get a better zoom at the moon, and had just been messing around with it.
I am actually thinking there is no reason to be in a hurry to buy a bunch of new gear. I think buying the 70-200 F/4 IS, getting my second flash up and running and continuing to learn is the best way for me to go right now. Oh, and I'm getting a new tripod too.
Blending a concise wide-angle zoom range with a fast, constant maximum aperture, Tokina has just announced the AT-X 14-20mm f/2 PRO DX lens, which is dedicated to Canon EF APS-C and Nikon F DX-format shooters, providing a 22.4-32mm or 21-30mm equivalent focal-length range, respectively. Rare for a zoom, this lens is uniquely characterized by its bright f/2 maximum aperture that affords consistent low-light performance throughout the zoom range to benefit working in difficult lighting conditions. Also, the variety of wide-angle perspectives afforded by this lens is especially well suited for environmental and astrophotography applications, as well as interior, reportage, and landscape photography.
Moving beyond the distinct focal length and aperture combination, the lens also separates itself through the inclusion of one plastic-molded aspherical element, two Super Low Dispersion (SD) elements, and two glass-molded aspherical SD elements. Combined, these aspherical and low-dispersion designs aim to reduce chromatic and spherical aberrations throughout the zoom range for improved clarity and sharpness, as well as controlled distortion and more accurate color rendering. A multi-layer anti-reflective coating has also been applied to individual elements to suppress lens flare and ghosting for increased contrast when working in harsh lighting conditions.
Complementing the imaging assets, the AT-X 14-20mm f/2 PRO DX lens also sports an internal focusing design that limits the overall lens length during use and quickens autofocus speeds. A One-Touch Focus Clutch Mechanism is also employed for fast switching between manual and autofocus modes by simply sliding the focusing ring.
Announced alongside the lens itself is the dedicated petal-shaped BH-823 Lens Hood, which helps to prevent stray light from causing unwanted lens flare.
I would say that you post to places like PoTN and Fred Miranda and try to sell them. It's a place to start selling. I have a few friends that have never posted on FM and I vouched for them in their post.
I would say that you post to places like PoTN and Fred Miranda and try to sell them. It's a place to start selling. I have a few friends that have never posted on FM and I vouched for them in their post.
OK, thanks.
Originally Posted by Mizouse
I just looked up used prices, range from $350 to $475.
I've sold almost all of my gear on local craigslist. I've never had a bite on the photography websites like POTN. FM requires you to pay to sell so I haven't done that but I've bought a few things off of the site.
Toss it up on here though, someone might want it...the 10-22 is a relatively desirable lens.
04-15-2015, 09:00 PM
Untitled by Matt Garner, on Flickr
by Matt Garner, on Flickr
by Matt Garner, on Flickr
you get what you pay far, i mean it is a $180 lens 
