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I could never lease a car. I picked a 435i convertible thinking an M2 with a couple of options would equal its price:
At least with BMW Select you have the option of a lower payment during "ownership" with a balloon payment due at the end of the term. If you can sell the car for more than the balloon, you're golden; if you want it, buy it; if you can handle the loss, ditch it.
Not only what you are saying is correct, initially you will see higher lease rate on a M2 than M3/M4, due to demand and the money on the hood of the 3/4.
Also lease differs greatly when I look here in LA or 27612 zip (Raleigh).
Even in LA, Nick Alexander has always provided me with significantly better lease deals than my home dealer (Bob Smith)
I use the online BMW FS as a mere suggestion. Akin to buying pants online.... unless you go check it out in person and negotiate hard.... you won't know the real $$.
1)Leased yesterday in TX
"my MSRP is at ~73K and i'm paying about $800/month inclusive of tax (with zero down). "
2) Ordered 10/18 in NY
"I ordered a 2015 with executive / updated rims / backup camera / suspension. 70860 MSRP, 12k a year lease, payment is $673 and I put around 3500 down "
Here is a post from TODAY:
Is this a good deal?
$1078 for 2016 M3 36mo/15K. In Illinois
They say this is based on money factor of .0017
They claim they are chopping $2K off MSRP
No that's awful.
Two additional rebates:
$1,000 for a BMW event, and the current $750 rebate on the M3/M4
1)Leased yesterday in TX
"my MSRP is at ~73K and i'm paying about $800/month inclusive of tax (with zero down). "
2) Ordered 10/18 in NY
"I ordered a 2015 with executive / updated rims / backup camera / suspension. 70860 MSRP, 12k a year lease, payment is $673 and I put around 3500 down "
Here is a post from TODAY:
Is this a good deal?
$1078 for 2016 M3 36mo/15K. In Illinois
They say this is based on money factor of .0017
They claim they are chopping $2K off MSRP
No that's awful.
Two additional rebates:
$1,000 for a BMW event, and the current $750 rebate on the M3/M4
Those #s don't make sense.
Let's just assume he got the deal of the century with $6k off of MSRP on a relatively low equipped M3.
with 61% residual value and .00134 MF, his payment should still be in the 800 range. I also added 1750 rebate (1000 bmw driving event + 750 rebates)
Let's just assume he got the deal of the century with $6k off of MSRP on a relatively low equipped M3.
with 61% residual value and .00134 MF, his payment should still be in the 800 range. I also added 1750 rebate (1000 bmw driving event + 750 rebates)
This was the response to his deals, from other LOCAL M3 owners
""Someone who purchases the car you described, $70,445 MSRP, in new york with 8.875 sales tax (sales tax has to be paid up front as you said), would pay $752 a month for the 2016 M3 on a 10k 36mo lease if they got the car at US invoice price.
If they got it at ED invoice price, it would be $619 a month in the same scenario."
I read those. This is the thing. #s don't lie. Their #s just don't add up. While we are all trying to get a good deal, but at some point it would sound too good to be true.
The problem with their posts is it is missing a lot of key information. like was his car ED or MSD. Also most of people do not understand the difference between drive off and down payment.
$3500 down to me can be easily translated to $3500 cap reduction + $2000 (1st month payment and registeration) + 7 MSD ($4500)
For example my 435 was $60k, RV was 61% with .0013 MF... so bascially the same as current program.
I got a 6k off with $2k drive off,and I verified all fees (Aqu. fee, documentation fee), + 1000 BMW driving event and my payment is still a little over 600.
I do not understand how can someone with a car that is 10k more at selling price with similar program can be just $50 bucks more than me.
at $670 a month with tax included like he said, he is getting similar price as BMW employees and I know exactly how much they pay for theirs (BMW employees)
Last edited by oonowindoo; 10-20-2015 at 01:30 PM.
Yeah even the TLX numbers are all over the place on the forum, with guys paying $30,200 and some paying significantly more.
I would love to pick up a manual trans, base model 3 series sedan, with moonroof. But with 3rd kid on the way, sedans are done for me, that don't fit 3 rear seats.
I already have 2 two seater fun cars for the weekend. Will be getting rid of one those for wife's convertible..likely next summer
You are going to have a 3rd kid. While you can't have a sedan but your wife is getting a convertible AND you have to get rid of one of your fun cars for your wife's new car.
You are going to have a 3rd kid. While you can't have a sedan but your wife is getting a convertible AND you have to get rid of one of your fun cars for your wife's new car.
:whoopa:
I have a DD -wagon
Wife has a DD-600h
We will need to replace both.
I also have 2, two seaters. They basically sit since I can't use it with kids. Thus we will replace one with a 4 seater vert, so she can use it on weekends at times with the older kids.
and BMW online configuration is far from the reality.
Which is the only reason I posted it because if it is even remotely similar to what a lease is in reality, leasing such a car is ridiculous to me. I cannot fathom spending all that money and having nothing at the end except a good time.
Which is the only reason I posted it because if it is even remotely similar to what a lease is in reality, leasing such a car is ridiculous to me. I cannot fathom spending all that money and having nothing at the end except a good time.
While I understand what you are saying but the "having something to show for at the end" argument is not valid if you really dig into the #s.
That is especially true for brand new German cars.
For you to come out positive in #s, several fixed conditions must be met.
I am planning to drive the car for 10+ years. Well good for you, then buy it
I am planning to drive 20k miles per year. At .15 or .20 miles extra over the standard 12k/15k miles lease. Depends on the situation, it might actually more more sense to buy more miles.
The main reason i prefer leasing is I like the idea of having the OPTIONS, not locked down into a term of depreciating assets.
With leasing, you can buy/sell the car at any time, or at the end of the lease if you really like the car. Based on my calculations the overall # is relatively the same vs. financed for 60 months, which is what most of people do anyways.
Or if you get one of those fucked up lemon or you really hated the car or other unexpected events ( like VW), at least you are not stuck with it. You can just turn the car in and walk away.
One of the most surprising lease i had dealt with was with our company's 2012 Pilot EXL-Nav. We leased it for 0 drive off for $440 a months. and when we sold the car after 2 years (lease term was 3 years) to Carmax, the company actually made $2,000 despite the much lowered monthly payment vs. Financed with 0 down.
^
Yup people will make the 10 year argument
Which you can respond by your lemon law argument etc
Residuals are done by actuaries and are often very close to what the market will bear
This even if you kept a car 10 years you can lease and opt to purchase
I have seen a few deals like that you had on the pilot. I had a similar deal on a Lexus ct200 . I drove it 11 months and came out even (didn't make it profit like you ), but it was well timed and sold before gas market crash
I have also seen some guys with the Infiniti G to come out ahead of residual
And with the recent fiat 500 99 dollar lease
Obviously you aren't ignorant and know what you are doing . I think what gives lease a bad name is the people who use lease to buy more car they can afford
I had a bolt in my tire a week or so ago and I went over to Discount Tire and had them repair and plug it. Thankfully it didn't go through the wall. All done free of charge.
But I ended up getting the protection plan on the PSS tires. Total cost was about $70 and it covers them for the life of the tires. And even if I get a flat and I take it in to any tire shop and have a (any) new tire put on, I can then go to DT and they will do an exact replacement of the PSS for no charge and reimburse me for the tire I had to get. In my 245 size the PSS is a $200 tire so I thought this was a good deal, especially with all of the construction going on around here.
I had a bolt in my tire a week or so ago and I went over to Discount Tire and had them repair and plug it. Thankfully it didn't go through the wall. All done free of charge.
But I ended up getting the protection plan on the PSS tires. Total cost was about $70 and it covers them for the life of the tires. And even if I get a flat and I take it in to any tire shop and have a (any) new tire put on, I can then go to DT and they will do an exact replacement of the PSS for no charge and reimburse me for the tire I had to get. In my 245 size the PSS is a $200 tire so I thought this was a good deal, especially with all of the construction going on around here.
That is a good deal and I definitely will consider that when I replace my tires. I got a nail right through the sidewall/tread seam and that toasted the tire.
I did get road hazard on the replacement but I'm only going to have the Mustang another couple of weeks and then it's getting sold. Sad to do it because I really love the car but it be what it is.
10-16-2015, 12:48 PM
Anyway, I'll probably lease it next year or so.
