Can someone please send me that closed post that gave detailed instructions on wiring a new sub up? If not feel free to send me instructions. Thanks a ton.

Kevin

 

KrazyKrust:
Wiring a new sub up? You mean from the factory sub and all that? Let me know if that's what you mean.

Austin519

 

Yeah, I am hooking up an aftermarket amp with a sub. Disconnecting the factory sub and amp andrewiring both of them to my new stuff. Can ya give some insight on how to do this? I know it has been talked about but I just cant find the old post.

Thanks

 

Krazykrust:

Assuming you already have a power and ground cable for the amp and cable from the amp to the speakers...

Method 1-
Go to Radio Shack or similar store...go buy this:
-Three wire taps I believe for 16 gauge wire
-A few feet of 16 gauge wire
-Two crimp on RCA connectors

Remove your rear seat...find the wires feeding into the factory amp, a brown coated twisted pair of wires. Tap them with the wire taps and 16 gauge wire and put RCAs on the other end and run it to your amp. Tap the remote wire with the third tap (blue wire) and run it to your car's remote turn on.

Method 2-
Again Radio Shack or similar store:
-LOC (Line Out Converter)
-One RCA-RCA wire
-1 wire tap
-A few feet of 16 gauge wire

Unhook your factory sub, run the wires from it into the LOC. Run the RCA-RCA wire from the LOC to your amp. Tap the same remote wire as listed above and run it to your remote turn on.

Done ,
Austin519

 

Thanks for the help. I will let you know how it goes when I get some free time. Why is Bose hatin' on da bass? Making it too damn hard to redo anything.

 

Krazy,
I would suggest method 1, but if you know how to solder, I would solder the taps and the RCA instead of crimps. You will most likely get a better signal. But if not, no worries.

 

Brewboy:
I agree to some extent. As for soldering the wire taps...not as necessary for good taps...especially those for which the metal tab you push down to "tap" the wires is actually not a thin sheet of metal, but what I use which if you can imagine is a small group of thin sheets mounted onto a pole (this is all really small)...like so -

_____
__|__
__|__
__|__

Much better connection. As for the RCAs I would definitely solder those if you have a soldering iron, but if not for a low current method such as method 1, then you should be alright...I would do it for stength. You'd usually only get a better signal if there were conductive issues within your connections, which again, is doubtful for the low level inputs.

Austin519

 

do you do this after the factory amp before the factory sub?
and do you run only one rca from the LOC to the amp?

 

VeiLsTyleZ:
You use the LOC on the sub wires...so anywhere from after the amp to where it connects to the sub. And it's only 1 channel so yes one RCA.

Austin519

 

so its cheaper to go with the method 1? where as no LOC is needed.
so in method 1....I cut off a rca...strip the wire...then i solder the rca wire to the twisted pair of wires on the factory amp....does this mean...one wire from the amp goes to the like the middle wire of the rca and the other wire goes to the outter wire of the rca?

 

VeiLsTyleZ:
Yep, method 1 is cheaper, and gives you a better signal. But it's harder than method 2, where if you just wire the remote turn on into your fuse box you don't have to tap a single wire or remove your seat...but I'd go with #1.

"so in method 1....I cut off a rca...strip the wire...then i solder the rca wire to the twisted pair of wires on the factory amp....does this mean...one wire from the amp goes to the like the middle wire of the rca and the other wire goes to the outter wire of the rca?"

Well I assume you mean get an RCA cable and cut off one end. Yeah you can do that...but getting one long enough is going to be expensive...like $20 or so I believe from Radio Shack. Whereas just getting wire, and an RCA end adapter you crimp/solder on...is may be like $4 or so with the wire and connector. You don't need more than 12 gauge wire at the thickest. If you do it your way yes, the outer wire is negative and the inner is positive. But that may be a real pain in the arse to do. I suggest instead you just go grab the wire and the RCA terminating end and use that. You don't solder the RCA wire to the twisted pair on the amp...you use a wire tap which, if you can imagine, is a plastic piece that has two channels in it, one for each wire. You then push down a metal clip that looks like an "m" and the clip cuts through the insulation of each of the wires and touches the wiring of each, thus making a connection. You don't have to solder it, and in fact it would be a real pain to do unless you also stripped the wire. You don't strip the wires at all with the wire taps because the little "m" clip cuts through it. And if you remove it later you can't tell you ever used them (think - resale). You'd prefer to solder the RCA connections though if possible, instead of crimpable ones.

Austin519

 

VeiLsTyleZ:
See if the pic below helps you visualize...this is a wire tap. You slide the two wires in (the one that you want to tap and the one running to whatever you want the tapped signal to run to), press down on the metal tab to electrically mate them, then close over the plastic tab, and you're done.

Austin519

 

Austin519
...i totaly get it now~~!!!!!

THANKS A LOT

 

VeiLsTyleZ:
No problem man Good luck!

Austin519

 

i think im gonna go with method one... but dont we still need to run the power cable to the front of the car to the fuse box?

 

Jaydef:
Ah, no. You don't run the power wire to the fuse box...you run it through a grommet behind the brake pedal through the firewall and into the engine bay, where you connect it to the battery.

Austin519

 

YO, FUK THAT $HIT! lol. i def am not feelin this installation.... im gnna leave it to the professionals, esp bc i dont wanna fuk up something, like removing the rear seats, etc. considering im giving the car back in a year..... im interning at Service/Parts at Curry Acura through my high school. and i guess they will just help me out.... and ill wait until may i guess when i intern

 

Jaydef:
I don't understand . It's a really REALLY easy install. No more than an hour to do the whole thing. Removing the rear seats is really easy as well, but if you don't want to you can always use a LOC and hook it right up to the wires going to the factory sub. It's really not hard dude...you just gotta get into it. Don't let how it sounds scare you out of doing it. Hell I'm a comp. engr. and don't know crap about cars, but I put in my own intake, exhaust, spark plugs, strut bar, brake lines, lights, and removed and reinstalled my alternator!

Austin519

 

alrite, wuts this LOC business? ha

 

nevermind, i understand.... how much is an LOC, neways? wut does it look like?

so i take the 2 wires going into the sub, hook that up to a LOC, attach the RCA plug to the LOC and run that to the amp.... remove the rear seats, tap the remote wire, run it to the remote in the amp...... then hook my new sub up to my amp ... sorry if this took me awhile... i just dont know nething ab cartronics.

 

Jaydef:
It should be about $15-$40 depending on the model. It looks like a rectangular box with wires coming out of it...and yeah you have that exactly right about the LOC. You don't even have to remove the rear seat if you want. I suggested the LOC because you wouldn't have to remove anything but the trim to run the wires. You'd take the remote cable, and run it up to your fuse box, and patch it in on the tail end of the stereo fuse. That way, no seat removal. If you remove your seat, you may as well do the other way I suggested, which is cheaper and better sound quality, the tapping of the twisted pair in the brown sheath feeding into the sub amp, and while you're down there tapping the remote turn on wire (blue) going into the amp. But if you don't want to hassle with removing the seat, you can just use the LOC and run the remote wire up to the fuse box. Hope that helped. Just don't give up...this is really easy

Austin519

 

so in this method with the LOC, wut do i do ab the power cable? do i still need to run that up to the battery... or all it needs is that remote wire going into the fuse box?

 

Jaydef:
Okay let me break it COMPLETELY down .

You have 4 things total you need to stick into your amp:
Power
Ground
Signal
Remote Turn On Wire

Now...your power wire you run from your battery, through the grommet behind your brake pedal, under the trim, and to your amp.

The ground wire you will terminate the wire in an eyering, and then you will find a screw somewhere in your car, as near to the amp as possible, you will unscrew that screw, sand around the rim of the screwhole so that your eyering gets good contact with metal and not paint, and screw the screw back in with the eyering under it to ground the cable.

There are two ways to tap the remote turn on. You can either 1) run the remote wire under the trim and up to the fuse box, where you will wire it in at the tail end of the stereo fuse or 2) remove your rear seat and tap the blue remote wire feeding into the stock sub amp

There are two ways to tap the sub signal. You can either 1) use a High/Low Converter (aka Line Out Converter, LOC) and tap the wires that run to the stock sub and run that to the LOC, then plug the LOC into the amp or 2) tap the brown sheathed twisted pair wires running into the stock sub amp, put an RCA on the other end of the wires (1 RCA, the wires are + and -) you are using to tap the sub amp wires, and plug that RCA plug into your amp.

Whew
Austin519

 

alrite, i get it... thanks SO MUCH, Austin... im gonna do it. i just think itll b a ***** to run it to the battery. i heard that the grommet is hard to find. but ill try me best and see wut i cud do

 

Jaydef:
Dude no problem . Hopefully all that helped. Good luck. The grommet isn't TOO hard to find...the best way to explain where it is...about 5" out from the right wall of the engine bay, you have to really stick your hand down in there. On the inside, there's a wall between the emergency brake and your other pedals. If you run your hand up along the right side of that wall, then at the top fell up and a little left you'll feel the grommet with the wires protruding from it. You're going to have to knife the grommet and cut a hole in it for the wire. I suggest you get a little spray bottle of water and soap and spray it before you knife it...it'll help the knife cut through. Make sure to use a VERY sharp knife, I use a razor, but don't slip on the soap and lop off a finger

Austin519