thats not my video but it did happen to me i shattered the kicker L7 box that i had it in wasnt thick enough. i dont have pictures but i have witnesses.

 

work looks good. well tearing apart a box and bustin glass 2 way diff things.

 

here's a pic of finished product.I'm gonna pull the box a little more forward btut thats it.This dam thing to 3 hours to fit the box and the seat together.I never to in account for the tilt on the box when I measure the frame work so the botom was 1/8" to tight.every piece was a pain in the ass to put back together.every screw would not line and the added botom piece I had to use all the strenth I had to push the compartment into the seat to attach.I never gave the guy the compartment to work around,so that was almost a bad mistake.beside the area were I had to strech the frame it looks pretty good.just need to position the box a little beter.

 

after some fitment should look nice. and btw i took out one of my 6x9's today pass side. it as blown somehow gonna see tomorrow how much louder she is

 

I'm surprised you decided to keep the back seats like that.

I would of sold the rear seats and use the proceeds to made a nice fiberglass enclosure.

 

let me sit in the back seats after a day of work. lol

 

Looks sweet!! what did you do with the side panels though

 

I still have the pannels but I've havent got to them
to much yet.I've took everything off the back side to make flat as possible.took arm rest off.And started to cut alittle to see the sub but havent touched it since.That will be next and The upolster said he could do a perfect job on them cuz he does stuff like that all the time.maybe he's trying to get me to drop some more cash thou.seam like a real honest guy.He offered to fix any problems I had but I'm not takeing it back off unless necessary.That thing was a nightmare to reinstall.whats everybody think I should do with the side pannels?

 

I've been thinking to keep as much of the factory side pannels as possible and make a leather insert that goes from the back seat about 13-14" high to horse shoe around the subs.that way it will blend in good.

 

have you experimented w/ just running the 12s and just running the 18 to see if you are having cancellation issues?

have you considered an IB setup sealing w/ 2 12's?

could give you some nice results

x1000 on a HU and comps tho

 

It will definitly give a nice massage.

 

=\

 

i have ran the 4 12's by themselfs and I have ran the 18 by its self.for now all subs are running off the same amp.but I do have another upstairs.Both sounded good seprate.Thats why I bought another to make it sound super loud. But tell me what a IB setup is.HU ,comps "I want everything" but I'm like everyone else.I cant buy everything yeasterday.It will come as long as I dont get bored with the car.

 

x2...

 

That's what the BTL is made for

 

But you have to give it room to breathe, and enough power to make it sing...

 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...rix-setup.html

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...omparison.html

^IB

Is it THAT much louder running them together vs separate?

 

depends.the 12's were running 1600w@ 1ohm.The 18 .5ohm so the amp was trying to put out way more.and that was really loud by itself.Now they way they are wired is .66667ohms I think with all subs.Its still putting out more than 1600w,but to 5 subs.To me it is much louder.When the other amp is in something is probally gonna break.I quickly turn down my radio earlier because my sunroof made a loud crack sound.so loud I was inspecting for damage.I dont even want to play what ever song it was when the 2nd amp is installed.

 

yeai imagine something will break. maybe ur alt, or ur batt could take a shit also. can't remember what ele upgrades you did .but you are def gonna need some batts, the big 3 and at least 1-2 runs of 1/0 or bigger. In my case with my monster amp doing the big 3 in 1/0 and putting in my small kinetik 600 helped a ton.

 

I have big 3 in 0 gauge.0 gauge all the way to the amp with a 0 to 4 gauge reducer to go into the amp.The amp only requires 4 gauge.But I'm letting it have all it wants.And I have 2 runs of 0 gauge to ground my amp less than 2 feet away.I've ordered a dual in and dual out 0 gauge fuse block cuz I plan on running another run of 0 to the back and to power my other amp.And I will end up running 2 runs of 0 grounds when I get the extra dough for the batts and alt upgrades. oyea for now I'm running a line converter right off the rear deck speakers with a 3ft pair of rca's.ditched the cap I had.Figured I gonna start wiring up stuff properly soon.One piece at a time but not trying to push the amps to hard before wiring batts and alt upgrades are completed.

 

well sounds like you've started well on the ele up's. Is your cars speakers factory amplified? Mine are and when I was running a stock hu. It was cleaner and louder having the loc behind the hu(before being amplified).

 

If you're doing 2 runs of 1/0 for power, you need to do 2 runs of 1/0 for ground. You might even be better off doing 1 run for each power and ground...

 

are you low passing the sub signal from your amp? otherwise the subs may be playing too high

 

I do plan on running 2 of each.I would be fine running 1 of each if I was only going to run the 2 1600w amps but,I was thinking about geting a 3rd and and running 2 on the 18.so the 18 can have healthy power.and my amp can run more stable.Not to metion I want atlest 1 4 ch.amp also.I took my old yellow tops after sitting for about 6-8month and had them charged all both of them swelled up.So I looking for a battery thats as good as the 2

 

PM D3100 is just about the best battery on the market today... Also, NSB90's and NSB125s...

 

pm d3100 that's a "power master" correct ? And who makes the other 2 you mentioned.

 

Yes, PowerMaster D3100. The other 2 are NorthStar batteries (NSB). These are some of the best cells period. For example, their g2700 is being used in the loudest Street A car in North America (I know, he wooped my ass in a local comp). He's running 1 battery, an AB 1000.1, and 2 AB 10's and doing 155.3 (highest I've seen, he said it'll do a 155.8 if everything's right). That's 11kw to 2 10's with power from 1 battery... Very impressive to say the least, and the NSB90 and NSB125 are bigger than the g2700...

 

11,000w off 1 battery?whole shit,what's he got for a alt?a nuclelar power plant.....

 

No... He has a 220A alt, but I don't remember what brand. It's not a daily setup, but a burp car. So he only plays like 3 seconds of a sinewave test tone to get those numbers. But still, 2 10's and he's hitting in the 55's. It's a very very loud car...

 

You say your in the comp game.I want comp electric for all day slaming what would be a perfect setup in your eyes that would be good for 4000+w rms to slam all day with out missing a beat.This would probally the best help for me.

 

Call Mechman (1-888-MECHMAN) and ask for Matt (I think his extension is number 7, but I'm not positive). They build/sell top quality alts and batts. You tell him what you're running, and he'll take care of you. It won't be cheap, but you'll get the quality you deserve for your cash. I've bought from them on a couple of occasions, and everything went great. And you can't beat their prices for new Power Master batts... You may think you can, but when you factor in shipping costs, there's no way.

From my experience though, I'd suggest 1 large case (~250-300A alt) and 2-3 good batts should take care of everything...

 

yea i've heard a ton of good stuff about mechman. If I keep the system (which who knows when my bike is finished i may sell all the audio) ill prolly buy from him.

 

Yeah, there's a guy up the road running a 250A mechman alt powering a SS XXX-10000K and 2 CD Omegas. That thing is beastly loud. With 1 HC1800 and 2 D3100s, his voltage only drops to like 12.8 at idle, which is very impressive...

 

dude thats fucking crazyy (the roof flex looks sick) fuckin intense

 

If I only had money for a batt OR a alt witch should be first? Friends are giving me mixed opions.I've found a decent battery for 249 shipped with 135Ah.And its rated higher than a kinetik 3800 and a 3100D I think for half the price as those.

 

whichever is cheaper

 

Thats not a logical answer.My pocket could tellme that man.

 

I'd start with the batt, or wait and get both at the same time... If you're going through Mechman, make sure you give him time to build the alt, since I highly doubt they stock anything for your car... More than likely, I'd just keep the system turned down and make sure the voltage drop isn't too bad, and order both batt and alt at the same time... Although those big batts might go pretty quick, so maybe jump on that, and start saving for an alt...

 

thanks for your opinon.My next free day off from work is wensday,so that will be the day The 2nd amp will go in.And I've also been doing a little more to the side pannels.There's a lot of contors on them.I dont think I'm gonna be able to get around not glassing some of them.

 

Richard , tell me how much the alternator is when you get it , Im looking at getting one but have no Idea how much one goes for