Should I get two 4 ohm 10 inch Type R .... or one 10 inch type X?

 

That's up to you. But why do u want alpine?

 

good question. I used to have a type r...I couldn't really compare it to anything else....and it sounded good.

Is there some other subs that sound better....

 

Tons. What's your budget and what kind of power are you going to be running? RMS, not max power. I'd assume roughly 1kw since that's the power handling of 2 Argh's and/or 1 X.

Check out companies like DC Sound Labs (lvl 3), Fi SSD/AA Chaos (I have 2 10s I may be willing to separate with for the right price), AQ SDC2.5's, etc.

There are literally a ton of brands that people have never heard of that will far outperform drivers from big companies like Alpine, Rockford, JL, etc.

 

I second this. I dont think ill ever buy a big named subwoofer...or amp again. Defiantly look at the brands listed.

 

i have 2 12" type Rs in a fibreglass box powered but the alpine mrp-m2000 amp and yea my roof rattles

 

well I want my subs to sound good, but right now I don't have the money for the top.

I have a Kenwood KAC-9104D 500W RMS at 4 ohm.

I wanted to get dual Type R's....and eventaully upgrade amp.

Any reccomendations on what sub's to purchase...
Is there a difference in sound quality between 4 and 2 ohms. I don't don't understand it.

 

no if u have a amp that is 2 ohm stable and plan on a single sub then get a dual 4 ohm. If u have a 1 ohm stable amp get a dual 2 ohm, it just for wiring. Or if u want 2 subs get dual 4's to wire down to 1 ohm or 4 ohm. Or dual 2's to go 2 ohm or 0.5 ohm.

 

My 10s would work well for you, even on your current amp. Buy 1 (actually, I wouldn't mind that at all because I want to do some testing with 1 sub in my bandpass anyway) and hook it up, then when you get more money, you can buy the other one. Or, I'd actually suggest getting a new amp before you buy the 2nd sub, that way you'll know the full potential of the sub before possibly wasting money on a 2nd one. The price I pm'ed you still stands if you want 1 sub. Or let me know what price you're getting on the Type R and I'll try to match it.

As for 4 ohm vs 2 ohm, most of the time there's no difference and it's only a matter of wiring. However, there are certain subs (like the Bravox EDX) that D2 vs D4 are completely different subs. The D4 is an SQ sub while the D2 is more of an SPL sub. Again, this is a rare occurrence, but it does happen.

See above...

 

My subs specs...

• 4 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan.
• 2 ohms: 900 watts x 1 chan.
• 1 ohm: >900 watts x 1 chan

Using the type r as an example....Since its 4 ohms it would recieve 500 watts rms. and if I had a 2 ohms sub it would get 900 watts rms. so in this case i should get two 2 ohm subs....??

 

I would guess those to be your amp specs, not sub specs.

But yeah, if you get 2 D2's, you can wire them to a 2 ohm final load to give you the 900w from your amp, which would be 450w per sub.

 

Let's keep this on topic, too much hijacking going on here. And Matt, if you're selling subs, make a thread in the BM please

 

Taken care of via PM.

 

any reccomendations for subs....one step above the alpine type R...?

Thanks again matt for the offer, i'll think about it.


Getting a 2 ohm saves you that much more power.....without reduction in quality.??

 

I think you have a misunderstanding of the impedances (ohms) of a speaker and what they do/don't do. The speaker has a given resistance caused by the coil and how much is in the magnetic field of the motor. Different coil options allow you to wire speakers to different final loads that the amp "sees". So, ideally, the lower the impedance, the more power the amp will put out. The problem is, when you run an amp at a lower impedance, they lose efficiency as well as draw a ton more current. More current draw means more strain on your electrical system, which means electrical upgrades (batteries, alternator, etc) to compensate for the extra power. Keep in mind the phrase "It takes power to make power". As I said, most subs sound quality will not change going from 2 ohm coils to 4 ohm coils (or any other coil option, really) but you have to look at the specs.

 

This just seems like another pointless thread where the audio build will never happen.

 

I see the adv. and disAdv. of having lower impedance vs. not. But with that setup would I need a new battery and an alternator if i go with the 2 ohm....

And yea... I have they money to buy the stuff I am just taking my time....

Any sub reccomedations that are equal to or a step above the type R?

 

You could go with many. Like said a dc audio lvl 3. I had a pair a year or so back sold them for 240 shipped. They are killer subs and will squat on some alpines. Or maybe a fi bl. But also said it's all in the box.

 

Check out companies like DC Sound Labs (lvl 3), Fi SSD/AA Chaos (I've posted this 3 times now...)

As for the electrical stuff, every CL I've seen has been different. Personally, I've had no troubles with 500w, but then step up to 1200w and I have problems. Replaced the battery and I'm good to go. If you do decide to replace the battery, do not use a junk one. This will cause more problems in the long run and you'll end up spending even more money. It's better to just do it right the first time, imo.

The SSD is more comparable to the Type Argh, seeing as the Argh is a 500w driver. Yes, you and I both know they'll take up near 1kw in the right enclosure, which would put them up near the stock BL, but I'd rather run the SSD on 500w than a BL. Then again, the SSD is the same thing as the AA Chaos.

 

cool, cool,

I guess one last thing. How can I tell how much rms power my car can take....?

 

The fact that it takes power to make power. First decide on what amp you're going to be running. Then figure out what kind of battery power you're going to need to power that amp (XS Power has a very nice chart here: http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/f...14&postcount=1) then choose the alternator size that you will need to keep the battery charged. Looks like your car is a 98 2.3L, which means it has an 80A alt, same as mine. I've run ~1kws in my car for quite sometime now on the stock alt and an XS Power battery underhood (initially a D5100R and now a D2400) and only 1 run of 1/0 wire. I'm going to be seeing how well the car likes ~4400w of rated power (I should see 2-3kws+ on the clamp) during the upcoming weeks when I drop a pair of borrowed AQ 2200's in the Acura. I don't think the amps will be happy with 1 battery, so I'm going to be running both the D2400 and the D5100R and upping to 2 runs of each power and ground. We'll see how it goes.

The real way to do it is to check it out for yourself. Get your amp hooked up and watch the voltage at the input of the amp to see what it does while you're playing. If it drops bad, then you need more electrical support. If it doesn't, you're good to go. I have a voltage gauge so I can watch the input voltage to the amp from the drivers seat. It's a little extra peace of mind when dealing with a several hundred dollar amp.