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My generation of TL is one of the first cars with the Bluetooth and hands free integration and these things are known for the hands free to go bug out in some kind of a booting mode. It would then make the battery drain rapidly as well as wear down the alternator. Ofc decided to start happening right after my first amp was installed haha what a fun journey that was finding the issue...
Cyber, only buy a new battery if you need one, not because you're adding an amp. These Acuras can handle prob 1000w with little issue, I've read. Never seen any light dimming personally, and I always have my stuff turned up loud.
i want to replace my battery because mine has a few engine lights flashing. Awd, check emissions, and TSA lights are all on plus my navigation doesnt work so it has a few "bugs" to work out. the new battery was something suggested by another member in a different post i have, plus it looks like it could use changed anyway cause its rather dirty and old looking.
I have been busy, but when you say your navigation doesn't work, do you mean you just can't use nav, or your whole headunit is blacked out or something like that? Odd that a poor battery would cause those dash lights to flash at you, but not the battery light...
my navigation is just a black screen so i cant access any of the stereo adjustments. i have decided to go ahead and do the sub replacement in the rear deck because my wife decided to get me the subwoofer for xmas. she wanted to surprise me with it but she wasnt sure which one to order so she had to let me know what she was getting me...lol.
i am going with the 8" pioneer shallow mount to replace the factory sub and i will use the 2 channel Pioneer amp i already have laying around. its a dual 2ohm sub so i can run it down to 1ohm once i get a better amp, but its only rated at 150w rms so it wont be any monster amp. later down the road i will pick up a Skar Audio MSK-200.1D which is a 200w rms 1ohm stable D class amp which would be perfect for it.
the little pioneer amp i have is a GM--x332 and is only rated at 2 x 50w rms so it would only be running 100w to the sub but this amp would be temporary until i get the skar.
Last edited by cyberquest; 12-06-2016 at 07:38 PM.
according to pioneers website the specs on the amp are:
Continuous Power (20Hz-20kHz, 0.08% THD)
2 ch: (4 Ohm) 35Wx2
2 ch: (2 Ohm) 50Wx2
1 ch: (4 Ohm) 80Wx1
Maximum Power (EIAJ)
2 ch: (4 Ohm) 70Wx2
1 ch: (4 Ohm) 160Wx1
the sub is a dual 2ohm sub and i was going to use the pioneer amp in 2 channel mode and just run one channel to one vosice coil and one channel to the other voice coil on the sub. so based on the specs they provide i should be getting 100w rms @ 2ohm total using it in 2 channel mode which is 20w more then having it bridged running at 4 ohms.
or would you still run it the amp bridged @ 4ohms bchester6?
The specs on it are based on 12 volt power source and since cars are typically right around a 13.8- 14.4 so expect for it to put out more than the numbers say. I would definitely run it in bridged mode esp that amp. You can wire each voice coil but a subwoofer should see one load coming from an amp so the power is split up evenly amongst it's voice coils but that's just me and my old school approach.
Thing about your sub not being a surprise from your wife is kinda funny haha my parents are like thst with my brother and me for Xmas! It should sound good right there in the cabin too. Do you only listen to CDs in your car, or does AUX work when you plug the cord in?
WD: i listen to cds only because mine doesnt have a Aux input port. and since i know what i am getting for xmas i just ordered a amp install kit, some sound deadening material, and a roller tool to install it. so along with getting a little more bump in the trunk it will also probably sound a little bit better overall with some sound deadening installed. i just ordered a 24x40 roll so it should be enough to do the whole rear deck and i should have a some left over to maybe start on the trunk.
Bchester: ok i will give it a try running it at 4ohms in bridged mode, i have always just tried running things at the lowest ohm load possible. i will give it a try in my sons car too because i have his running how i described i want to do mine. his is a dual 2ohm with the Rockford amp in 2 channel mode with one channel running one coil and the other channel running the other coil with a 2ohm load on each coil. since both his amp and the one i will be using for mine for now are both old school amps taking a old school approach my be the smartest move.
I think from an efficiency standpoint 2 ohm stereo is going to be about the same as 4 ohm Bridged. Now if we were talking about a Class D Mono Amplifier then that would definitely be a different story but even then I would recommend a final load of 2 ohm because even though amplifiers are capable of running 1 ohm they certainly will be drawing a lot more current from your electrical system.
Sound deadening is always good when you add a sub haha. I am going to have to do my rear deck as well, def not excited to take out my rear seats and what not. What deadener did you use?
this will be the first car i have done sound deadening on so we will see how it goes...lol. and thats literally the cheapest stuff i could find on ebay. on previous cars i have done over the years i have just used rubberized undercoating and coated the trunk or hatch area which will create somewhat of the same effect.
i will admit i am excited to do something with the stereo and i like the idea of just replacing what is already there, i am really not looking for overkill on this one like most of my other cars have been. this will just be a nice simple setup that will give the car some nice bass without overpowering the factory speakers. today was the first time i ever quickly cranked the volume up to see how high the numbers went so i could figure out where 75% of full volume would be. mine goes up to 40 so 30 would be 75% of its max volume and i normally listen to the stereo at about 22 at its loudest point so i turned it up to 30 and was like "holy shit"....lol. i think the pioneer will be just enough to compliment the factory system.
once i get everything together i will start my own post and take a bunch of pics of the work. with it being the holidays hopefully everything will make it here before the end of the month.
You don't need overkill, you're not too young like me haha. And yes, the idea of doing a little work on the stereo is kind of exciting. In all honesty, Acuras generally have pretty good factory systems! Rarely do factory systems have a good sub, though. Definitely do a little build thread for the RL guys, everyone appreciates them! I'm going to do a little sound deadening thread for the 3G people to give them updated pics haha
yes i think we may have slightly got this post off topic just a little.....lol. so making a couple new posts with the work we are doing will be more helpful for others.
now i just have sit back and wait for everything to get here which is gonna suuuuck.
Bchester6 : this Pioneer has high level inputs, if i use those to tap into the factory sub wiring it would pretty much be the same as using a line converter correct? and would you use those as your input source or would you use a rca converter?
you can see in this pic being a older amp it just has regular speaker wire inputs as apposed to the plug in style ones that newer amps have.
I would definitely try it out and see how it sounds. High level inputs are better used for subwoofers as I wouldn't recommend them for comps because they can be noisy. Bass is just a refined distortion so it should be all good. I was able to solder RCA jacks on the wires coming from my deck and plugged them directly into my amplifier low level inputs then flipped the switch. On-board converter built in. More old school goodness.
I really like that amp by the way it makes me want to get some!!
do you think i should tap into the factory sub wiring before or after the factory amp? i am also curious about the adjustments on the factory stereo since my navigation screen doesnt work and i have never even seen what adjustments it has. i think i watched a video on youtube and it looked like you could adjust the factory subwoofer level and i am curious if i am tapped into the factory sub wiring if that function on the stereo will also adjust the volume level of the aftermarket amp. i have never worked with a newer model stereo like the acura that has factory amps so this one is a learning experience for me.
i get lucky finding the older stuff i gave my buddy $20 for that Pioneer amp, money well spent...lol.
i gave i think $30 for the Rockford Fosgate P3002 in my sons car, and i have another older Sony Xplod amp i got for $20 just to have around because its a 3/4 channel amp that would be ok to run some door speakers.
Last edited by cyberquest; 12-09-2016 at 11:14 PM.
the ebay sound deadening material came yesterday.......whats the saying "you get what you pay for".....lol. its of very cheap quality and is just a foil covered piece of thick foam with a not so sticky backing so i will not be using this stuff,its nothing like the dynomat stuff which is a rubber butyl type material. i may install it on the trunk lid of my sons car since it had no lining to it at all but its not for the acura...lol.
this stuff reminds me of the foam strips you put around your door at your house to stop drafts. it has the same cheap clear glue that never sticks worth a damn.
so needless to say i will be forking over some more cash to pick up the correct stuff.
Cyber, you may want to try Noico deadening. It's really cheap and generally has good reviews. It's not high high quality but it'll def do the job.... If you want good stuff, Roadkill is the best for the price I heard. And yes, foam roll type material doesn't do shit lol I put a bunch on my trunk lid. Good for the licence plate though!
the Noico stuff you mentioned is pretty well priced, on ebay for 10 square feet its like $22 and from the pics its the correct rubber material. it doesnt have to be the best stuff on the market it just needs stop any rattling that it may once i install the new sub and amp. i would like to do the whole rear deck and 10 square feet would be more then enough so i may have to give the noico stuff a try.
I researched it, because I was going to get it actually. From what people say, it's pretty thick and sticky. Some had a few quality control issues such as damaged material and what not (it comes in a roll). It's Russian stuff, so I'm not surprised haha. In general tho, people seemed to have liked it. The only reason I'm going with Roadkill, where the 36 sq ft bulk pack is about $30 more, is because I have less room for error when I gotta do my trunk lid, front doors, and rear deck. It's said to work a little better and I need to make use of ALL of it if I want to get the proper areas lol.
Btw, I'm probably going to wait till the amp for my fronts is put in, everything is deadened, and the new LOC is added to build a box. I'm really concerned on how adding an fancier LOC like the AudioControl LC7i will fair. I'll have to get Bchester's input on that one. I just want a cleaner signal and maybe remove some buzzing from the signal as well.
I researched it, because I was going to get it actually. From what people say, it's pretty thick and sticky. Some had a few quality control issues such as damaged material and what not (it comes in a roll). It's Russian stuff, so I'm not surprised haha. In general tho, people seemed to have liked it. The only reason I'm going with Roadkill, where the 36 sq ft bulk pack is about $30 more, is because I have less room for error when I gotta do my trunk lid, front doors, and rear deck. It's said to work a little better and I need to make use of ALL of it if I want to get the proper areas lol.
Btw, I'm probably going to wait till the amp for my fronts is put in, everything is deadened, and the new LOC is added to build a box. I'm really concerned on how adding an fancier LOC like the AudioControl LC7i will fair. I'll have to get Bchester's input on that one. I just want a cleaner signal and maybe remove some buzzing from the signal as well.
It's the ELS surround system that is standard in all 3rd gen TL's. Only system you can get. I have nav also. It only really does it for the first 5 min of getting in the car especially when it's cold. I only really notice it in really clean sounding songs such as 45 or Simple Man by Shinedown.
I notice it a bit in between songs and during a few songs. It was more noticeable with oem speakers and the RF amp for the subs.
Anyway, that's quite the Xmas present I have never seen one of those subs before, but I imagine it was pretty expensive lol. Looks like you're more into the audiophile type of stuff
Its whatever u want it to be...but yes sound quality should be insane. Paper cones have a nice warm sound typically. Swede's know how to make speaker basically a Scanspeak woofer.
The beauty of it is, Its whatever u want it to be...but yes sound quality should be insane. Paper cones have a nice warm sound typically. Swede's know how to make speaker basically a Scanspeak woofer.
12-03-2016, 08:11 AM
so along with getting a little more bump in the trunk it will also probably sound a little bit better overall with some sound deadening installed. i just ordered a 24x40 roll so it should be enough to do the whole rear deck and i should have a some left over to maybe start on the trunk. 
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