Reach

AZ crowd,

I'd like to install my JL 250/1 amp into my 2006 TSX myself. This would be a first for me, installing an amp by myself. I've done speakers, but I had a friend help wire previous amps, and he is no longer in the area to do such things for me. I'm getting very much into the DIY attitude, and would appreciate pointers on how to go about it.

So, first, I checked the DIY master thread for TSXs. Unfortunatly it is sorely out of date. All but 2 of the applicable external links I found are dead (and they apply to in-car panel removal), and it seems that pictures have expired off of previously helpful and informative AZ posts, which are now basically worthless to me.
While I understand the basics, there are some things I'm confused/concerned about, so here they are in no particular order:

1. With this amp, am I still required to use a remote power on line, or will its signal sensing ability be enough? It does have a remote wire input, so would it be preferrable for some reason to just run the remote wire and keep the remote sensing turn-on ability off?

2. I need instructions to tap the signal from the rear 6x9s to use at the input. I've read that's the easiest but I can't quite find any post saying how to. Some people also say you need a LOC while other threads don't mention them at all.

3. Can I tap the 6x9 signal and keep the 6x9s functional in addition to the signal to the amp?

4. I know I need to run 4 guage wire to the battery. I am nervous about this hookup, for a number of reasons. Can someone explain to me the appropriate fuse to purchase and put on it, and the best way to mount this?

5. Follow up from above, how do I route the wire into the trunk? I've seen the threads about getting it through the firewall (and I have an AT so it should be easy) and I'm sure I can figure out running it through the panneling, but I don't know how to get it into the trunk from the cabin. (concealed, of course.)

Thank you for any information. Please DON'T just say 'go to a shop', I'd like to keep that as my last resort option.

harrjar

Disclaimer: I did my best to answer the questions but if someone out there knows better, please correct me...

I can't help you on the installation details of the TSX since I have a 2 gen TL...but I did some reading up on the 250/1:

1. I don't know enough about the processing in your stock HU to answer this question for sure...if you have full range signal going to those rear 6x9's (no filters or crossovers in the middle) then you will be fine using the signal sensing circuitry...it's designed to sense mid bass frequencies. Nevertheless, the best solution is to run a 12v switched lead.

2. If you are going take the time to run the 12 v lead then you might as well use an LOC to pull an RCA connection off of your stock harness...otherwise you can use t-taps to pull signal off the rear speakers. I would take signal from each speaker since the output from the HU is stereo and let the amp sum the inputs to mono. You will also need to splice the speaker wires into an RCA cable or you can use the LOC here too...and run the input voltage switch in the "high" position...unless the LOC reduces the output voltage to preamp levels...then I guess you can run the "low" position. Just read the manual, it explains it pretty well. You will need at least 200mv on the line for this amp so use a multimeter if you're unsure.

3. I think so...I've never really tried this method but my guess is that since you are using the low power stockers, you won't really notice a difference by dropping the voltage on the line.

4. Yes 4 Ga wire is the right choice...the manual says 30 amp fuse minimum if you are just running this amp. Fuse it as close to the battery as practical...make sure the fuse is not more than 18 in away along the length of your wire.

5. I routed my power (TL) along the driver's side..sort of under the carpet just below the door threshold...hope that makes sense. You can run it the whole length of the car that way. It's easier if you take the back seat out so you can access the trunk from the cabin.

Good luck and have fun! It's only a car afterall...

Reach

Thanks Harrjar.

Re: Point #1... the signal is post-crossover, only bass goes to the rear by nines, and I don't know the frequency offhand. Sounds like I may need to run the dedicated remote line.

Re: Point #5... what I'm actually getting at is not the wire run through the cabin, but TSX specific- how do I get the wire *into* the trunk. Do I have to remove the back seat entirely and route the wire under there?

bullyx2

Ok, I have done this exact install. First, you do not need an LOC. The inputs of the amp will handle the speaker level from the rear 6x9's just fine. You need to conver tthose to RCA's. If you really want to still use them, you can just tap into the speaker wires. I am no longer using them so I bought a pair of these from circuit city for $10:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-BNx2nEQ...012&i=12071012

I soldered them to bare ends of a pair of RCA cables, then disconnected the 6x9's and plugged these in to the wires for them.

I did use a remote wire. Since the signal to the 6x9's isn't full range, I figured it was safer since JL's manual said the auto sensing required more midrange. I tapped into the wire going to the 12V socket in the storage pocket in front of the shifter. Easy to get to and easy to run since you will need to run power cable through the car anyway, just run it along side that.

As far as getting the cable into the trunk, just remove the bottom of the rear seat and it will be easy. There is one bolt near the seat belt mounts that you'll need to remove to do this, but it's fairly simple.

Reach

If I get this correctly, you're running a 14.4v from the battery, fused into the amp power input, and a 12v remote wire, from the cig lighter @ 'not an ashtray' straight (not fused) into the remote wire input.

What guage wire did you run (/ should I run?) for the remote wire?
Do you miss your 6x9's at all? Would I even notice if I disconnected them in favor of the sub?

Tsx536

Bully has some great suggestions

I have a couple too.
For 12v power, I would tap into the remote turn on wire going from the OEM HU to the OEM amp. This way whenever you turn the stereo off, then the amp would go off too. If you wire it to the 12v power in the cig lighter, then it will turn on whenever your car is on. This is not necessarily bad, but your amp will be on whenever the car is on, even if your radio is off. For the guage of the wire, you can run high guage wire and it won't matter. You're not powering the device off of this wire, it's just used as an on/off switch for the amp. Don't worry about putting a fuse on this wire either.

And yes, put a fuse under the hood and run your power wire down the side of the car. If you need help will how to do panel removal, let me know. It's just held on with clips that pop off. And the back seat removal is easy like bully said. One bolt in the middle of the seat. Look for the aspec install instructions for the TSX, there is a post by JTso that shows the bolt that must be removed.

I would disconnect the 6x9's either way. I've tested with and without them and I've found the bass to be cleaner without them.

bullyx2

What TSX said about the remote wire is correct. I used the lighter one because it was easier to get to and I don't know if I ever drive with the radio off. As far as the size, I used 4ga from the battery to the amp, and whatever came in the amp kit i bought for the remote. 16ga-18ga probably. No, I do not miss my 6x9's at all. The real sub more than makes up for them.

Reach

Thanks for the responses everyone. I'm going to attempt this Friday afternoon, I'm pretty sure I've got more than enough info to do this now, its just a matter of panel removal and finding everything. I bought a 30 amp fuse and fuse box last night from BB, and I'll locate enough 4ga wire from RShack today prolly. (BB wanted like $60 for a kit that was just some 4ga wire and spade connectors... are you kidding me?)

In the mean time, any help or advice on panel removal, related to this or not directly, is appreciated. TSX536, if you would PM me any panel removal guidelines I'd love it, or a direct link to the JTso thread w/ back seat removal.

Once again yall have been a great resource. Thanks!

Reach

bump...

I pulled up the door well panelling last night for a test run of sorts, that was easy enough to do. Can someone link me, or explain detailed, how to remove the back seat to run the wires through there?

Thanks. I'm getting anxious.. might do this tonight.

Reach

Also... I need more information about how to locate the remote turn on wire at the stock amp. Which wire is it? Whats the best way to access it? Panel removal to get to it, etc.

Thanks again

Tsx536

Here's the post that shows removing the back seat. Once you have the backseat off, running the wires will be pretty self explanatory. There is a plastic piece with a clip on each side of the seat. Just undo the clip and run the wires underneath there.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...8&postcount=22

Tsx536

Have you seen the sticky at the top of the forum. This is the link for the a/v DIY index for the TSX. Lots of good info there:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...90&postcount=3

For the remote turn on wire. Check this thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/request-diy-subwoofer-amp-install-283229/

I think it is a yellow/green wire. You can get to it in one of two ways:
1. Remove the storage bin and get to it at the factory amp. Do more searching and you should be able to find the pin layout of the wire harnesses at the amp.
2. Remove the rear pillar. Not sure which side. And get to the wire at the factory antenna booster. I've never used this wire myself, but I heard it should work. It's suppose to have the same signal going into it as the factory amp.

Tsx536

More about the possible remote turn on in the C pillar. Hope you have a voltmeter. Good luck!
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=tsx+harness