Can someone tell me the wiring(colors, swicth pin outs) for the sunroof? please, please, plase..

thank you..

 

hmmmmm....cant hep you....but i sence a nice mod coming......one touch open and close maybe??????????????????????

 

one touch open/close...close on arm...open on window roll down...

 

awesome...ill talk to my buddy, a tech at acura, and ill try to get a diagram for you

 

cool thanks...I'll eventualy get to all the windows, too... But I need to start with what I have time to do....

 

Here's the architecture:

The low-current (-) outputs of the switch feed through the limit switches built into the sunroof. These (-) signals then trigger the sunroof Open and Close relays (which are located above the headliner next to the motor). If you are using any aftermarket motor control products (like a Directed 529T, for example) you need to get to the motor wires, NOT to the switch wires - the switch wires will do you no good in that situation.

(NOTE: You could control the motor directly with a relay on the switch wires, but A) you would have NO safety, and B) since motors often generate RF interference, if you try to connect that to a remote button it would probably only move a couple inches and stop, since the motor's RF output would jam the remote signal. I recommend a DEI 529T, since it moves the thing until it reaches its limit.)

Green/Yellow is the wire from the Open relay to the motor.
Green/Black is the wire from the Close wire to the motor.

These wires rest at a hard ground, and if you attempt to put (+)12v to them without first disconnecting them from the source of the hard ground (the relays) then you will pop a fuse or worse. The 529 internally disconnects the motor from the source of resting ground before injecting 12V on the wire. It also measures the speed of the motor motion by sensing the AC noise the motor generates as it moves, and it stops the motor when it hits something that slows it down. It works... trust me.

However, if you don't want to drop your headliner, and you don't care about the safety, the wires at the switch are controllable by (-) inputs and are:

Gray/Blue, pin 6: Open
Lt Green/Black, pin 1: Tilt Open
Gray/blue, Pin 1: Tilt and Close

If anyone can scan and post page 122-1 of the Electrical T-shoot guide, that would help...

 

NOOO!!!!

lol..That's not what I was hoping for...

poop..

 

That's me... making people happy since 1966...

 

Okay, they BOTH can't be Pin one. This SHOULD have read:

Gray/Blue, pin 6: Open
Lt Green/Black, pin 1: Tilt Open
Green/orange, Pin 4: Tilt and Close

Sorry about that.

 

hope this helps....

 

So MB can you do what you want? need any assistance?

Also, ever check that 603 on the bench?

 

I'm not sure if I want to pull the headliner down or not, I'll have to look into what that takes when I have time.

I haven't checked the 603 yet, I had plans on getting a lot of stuff done last weekend, in fact taking a day off to help, but I ended up being sick all weekend and the rest of the week. the only thing I got done was getting my windows tinted..

 

Hopeyou feel better.

 

Ok, now that I've time to think about this.. I don't think I can do the wiring at the switch, because the basic function of the control units uses current draw for it's "on/off" and protection, which the switch wiring would not have...

And if I wire it between the motors and the relays I will probably have problems with one direction because of the tilt feature...I need to stare at the wiring diagram some more...

So maybe I can do some type of pulse timer relays on the switch wiring and at least that would keep the factory protection(which I think is there?)....

 

I helped a guy do this on a first-year LS400 with pulse timers... but he had to get between the relays and the switches.

Do you use your Homelink? I am thinking about hijacking the Homelink buttons for the sunroof...