TSX: Subs in trunk...Can you feel the BASS?
#1
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Subs in trunk...Can you feel the BASS?
I want to get 1 12' or 2 12' and i got quick questions about the subs in the trunk.
1. How does the bass feel when the subs are in the trunk? Can you even feel it or is it for show(trunk open) And can you feel the bass better if the back seats are down?
2.If i were to get a subwoofer which way would it be face towards? front or back of the car?
Thanks for your time
1. How does the bass feel when the subs are in the trunk? Can you even feel it or is it for show(trunk open) And can you feel the bass better if the back seats are down?
2.If i were to get a subwoofer which way would it be face towards? front or back of the car?
Thanks for your time
#2
Three Wheelin'
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Well it all depends on how you want to install it. DO you have any exp with audio builds? You could do a sub/port forward and seal it off from the trunk. Then all comes into cabin and no rattles. But is more work to seal. Mattastick could help you out im sure he'll chime in soon as thats how he runs his iirc. You could feel it anyways if you get decent equip. What do you have or what is your budget. We can go from there
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Well it all depends on how you want to install it. DO you have any exp with audio builds? You could do a sub/port forward and seal it off from the trunk. Then all comes into cabin and no rattles. But is more work to seal. Mattastick could help you out im sure he'll chime in soon as thats how he runs his iirc. You could feel it anyways if you get decent equip. What do you have or what is your budget. We can go from there
Good to know you can feel it through the trunk, yup i got a friend that can help me with the install and choosing the right equip.
thanks
#4
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Really depends on how much wattage and power you're pushing, I certainly feel my bass, gives a great back massage
#5
This comes down to cancellation effects, essentially. Bass waves will travel through just about anything, but output is lost when waves are in cancellation interference with each other.
And for that, we have:
http://www.installer.com/tech/aiming.html
http://www.installer.com/tech/aiming2.html
And for that, we have:
http://www.installer.com/tech/aiming.html
http://www.installer.com/tech/aiming2.html
#6
Drifting
Brian (on1wheel) is partially right. I did run forward firing and sealed off from the trunk. If you're going to run everything forward, you need to seal it off. If you don't, it will sound like shit, and will not be loud, I can guarantee it. Been there done that a couple times, and it's not good. But, once you put that seal in, it's money. I could flex the windshield with 2 10s and a 1500w amp that wasn't doing near that power (probably 1100w or so, if I had to guess since I never really clamped it).
There are really 3 ways to get loud. 1 is a lot of power (doable with a trunk setup. Youtube "Thorshammer" for an example). 2 is cone area, which is nearly impossible in a trunk car, due to space limitations (youtube "Hank's 48 10's" and you'll see what I mean). 3 is an efficient enclosure, which is hard to do in a trunk once you go above a certain sub size/quantity. Personally, I'd run a couple 10s on a decent bit of power. That should do plenty. Or a single 12. Hell, I was going to swap from 2 10s to a single 12 before I ripped everything out in favor of another project, but that was due to enclosure restrictions and not having enough room to do the enclosure the way I wanted for the 2 10s (see point 3). The 2 10s setup was pretty damn efficient, burping a 142+ on only 900w of clamped power, but then with a 12 that number should've gone up quite a bit.
It's really going to come down to your budget, and the amount of work you're willing to put into it...
There are really 3 ways to get loud. 1 is a lot of power (doable with a trunk setup. Youtube "Thorshammer" for an example). 2 is cone area, which is nearly impossible in a trunk car, due to space limitations (youtube "Hank's 48 10's" and you'll see what I mean). 3 is an efficient enclosure, which is hard to do in a trunk once you go above a certain sub size/quantity. Personally, I'd run a couple 10s on a decent bit of power. That should do plenty. Or a single 12. Hell, I was going to swap from 2 10s to a single 12 before I ripped everything out in favor of another project, but that was due to enclosure restrictions and not having enough room to do the enclosure the way I wanted for the 2 10s (see point 3). The 2 10s setup was pretty damn efficient, burping a 142+ on only 900w of clamped power, but then with a 12 that number should've gone up quite a bit.
It's really going to come down to your budget, and the amount of work you're willing to put into it...
#7
I spend 2 much time here
mattastick, when you say seal it off...would you reccomend i cover the openings where right the 6X9s in the deck used to be? I dont have speakers there right now so it is just open holes.
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#8
Drifting
Yes. You should put something there. I personally used some old sheet metal that we had laying around that I covered in deadener. You need to seal everything as much as possible with a forward firing setup.
Now, if your subs are firing towards the back of the trunk, you want it to be as open as possible. I know with my CL, I would gain 1.4db at 43hz just by pulling the rear speakers out of the deck.
Now, if your subs are firing towards the back of the trunk, you want it to be as open as possible. I know with my CL, I would gain 1.4db at 43hz just by pulling the rear speakers out of the deck.
#9
I spend 2 much time here
oh actually i was reading what you said backwords haha, my subs fire towards the back of my trunk. so i guess i it setup the right way with the 6X9 openings not sealed off.
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thanks guys for the responses
Brian (on1wheel) is partially right. I did run forward firing and sealed off from the trunk. If you're going to run everything forward, you need to seal it off. If you don't, it will sound like shit, and will not be loud, I can guarantee it. Been there done that a couple times, and it's not good. But, once you put that seal in, it's money. I could flex the windshield with 2 10s and a 1500w amp that wasn't doing near that power (probably 1100w or so, if I had to guess since I never really clamped it).
There are really 3 ways to get loud. 1 is a lot of power (doable with a trunk setup. Youtube "Thorshammer" for an example). 2 is cone area, which is nearly impossible in a trunk car, due to space limitations (youtube "Hank's 48 10's" and you'll see what I mean). 3 is an efficient enclosure, which is hard to do in a trunk once you go above a certain sub size/quantity. Personally, I'd run a couple 10s on a decent bit of power. That should do plenty. Or a single 12. Hell, I was going to swap from 2 10s to a single 12 before I ripped everything out in favor of another project, but that was due to enclosure restrictions and not having enough room to do the enclosure the way I wanted for the 2 10s (see point 3). The 2 10s setup was pretty damn efficient, burping a 142+ on only 900w of clamped power, but then with a 12 that number should've gone up quite a bit.
It's really going to come down to your budget, and the amount of work you're willing to put into it...
There are really 3 ways to get loud. 1 is a lot of power (doable with a trunk setup. Youtube "Thorshammer" for an example). 2 is cone area, which is nearly impossible in a trunk car, due to space limitations (youtube "Hank's 48 10's" and you'll see what I mean). 3 is an efficient enclosure, which is hard to do in a trunk once you go above a certain sub size/quantity. Personally, I'd run a couple 10s on a decent bit of power. That should do plenty. Or a single 12. Hell, I was going to swap from 2 10s to a single 12 before I ripped everything out in favor of another project, but that was due to enclosure restrictions and not having enough room to do the enclosure the way I wanted for the 2 10s (see point 3). The 2 10s setup was pretty damn efficient, burping a 142+ on only 900w of clamped power, but then with a 12 that number should've gone up quite a bit.
It's really going to come down to your budget, and the amount of work you're willing to put into it...
i was thinking about getting an fi btl 12.
wow really?
Last edited by FoRMuIaz; 07-23-2010 at 02:03 PM.
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#14
Drifting
A completely brand new setup, no probably not. But a used setup, you should be able to find for $800.
And ditch the BTL. It's overpriced... Plus if you go that route, you're going to want 2-3kws to power it, and that's when things start really getting expensive because you'll need electrical upgrades and all that jazz. The electrical alone could pretty easily blow your $800 budget...
And ditch the BTL. It's overpriced... Plus if you go that route, you're going to want 2-3kws to power it, and that's when things start really getting expensive because you'll need electrical upgrades and all that jazz. The electrical alone could pretty easily blow your $800 budget...
#15
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Yea the btl is a monster but does require tons of power to move. But I just did a install with a btl 18 with a saz1500 and it's stupid loud and doin a 147.5. His total build cost was right at 900 with the box I made for him and all.
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Thanks
A completely brand new setup, no probably not. But a used setup, you should be able to find for $800.
And ditch the BTL. It's overpriced... Plus if you go that route, you're going to want 2-3kws to power it, and that's when things start really getting expensive because you'll need electrical upgrades and all that jazz. The electrical alone could pretty easily blow your $800 budget...
And ditch the BTL. It's overpriced... Plus if you go that route, you're going to want 2-3kws to power it, and that's when things start really getting expensive because you'll need electrical upgrades and all that jazz. The electrical alone could pretty easily blow your $800 budget...
nice
#18
Check out jl audio dot com bro. they're having a sale right now. "Buy a amp and get two subs for free". Check it out be4 the sale's over. -prices around $220 - $350- and maybe spend the other $400 on speakers.
Click here ----->>>>> http://www.shopatron.com/products/ca....76559.0.0.0.0
Click here ----->>>>> http://www.shopatron.com/products/ca....76559.0.0.0.0
Last edited by samnguyen; 07-23-2010 at 10:00 PM.
#19
Racer
I defiantly feel the bass in my car. I did my whole setup for about 550 dollars, amp was brand new, and my sub was slightly used. Defiantly pay attention to what some of the people on here say as they do know what they are talking about....but dont check out that sale...please!!!! There are many other brands that are 100 times better in quality and price than all the mainstream stuff people will throw at you. Ive been there trust me.
#20
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I defiantly feel the bass in my car. I did my whole setup for about 550 dollars, amp was brand new, and my sub was slightly used. Defiantly pay attention to what some of the people on here say as they do know what they are talking about....but dont check out that sale...please!!!! There are many other brands that are 100 times better in quality and price than all the mainstream stuff people will throw at you. Ive been there trust me.
#21
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I defiantly feel the bass in my car. I did my whole setup for about 550 dollars, amp was brand new, and my sub was slightly used. Defiantly pay attention to what some of the people on here say as they do know what they are talking about....but dont check out that sale...please!!!! There are many other brands that are 100 times better in quality and price than all the mainstream stuff people will throw at you. Ive been there trust me.
Also maybe a used sundown audio saz1500 they go for about 325 sometimes with a warranty. Then get a nice ported box built that's around $125-150. Then scan caco for used subs and have slamming setup and prolly have a bit left over.
#22
Racer
Im pretty happy with my amp (Audio Que 1200d)....and its 249 new. Ive never used Sundown products though but i have only herd good things. Try looking up Audioque online....CACO...and youtube(although you cant really tell much about how a subwoofer sounds when someones using a cell phone camera.)
#25
1.if you have a good sub or a good pair of subs then u can definately feel it. it kinda feels like the entire car is shaking. the subs are for both show and use. you can listen to music like normal just with alot more bass but you can also show them off. you can feel it better with the seats down but it sounds better with them up in my car. it takes away the sound of the subs flexing but it might sound better in your car. 2. if you got a subwoofer or a set of subs it would be better to face them tawards the back of the car. it gives off better sound quality and deeper bass. i put a set of mtx terminator 12s with a 400 watt amp in my car and it sounded alot better with the subs facing the back. i hope this helps you decide on you system. good luck
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