Anyone know where you can get a Soundgate LOCB cheap? Circuit City has them for $80 and there's a 2 week wait. Or any suggestions on any other good converters??.

 

What do you need them for??

Matthew

 

This place has 5 of them. They are around $80.
http://www.123av2.com/DetailPage.asp?ProductID=SGTLOCB

Email Ron@streeteffectz.com He uses another brand and can probably hook you up. I can't remember what he used in my car.

 

LOCB
Line Output Converter for Bose systems

 

I know what they are! I was just trying to find out what his is going to us them for. We don't need then in your car as the headunit sends a regular low-level signal to the Bose amp.

Matthew

 

I'd assume that his intention is to install aftermarket amps to run different speakers - including a sub - and possibly process his signals thru an EQ - while retaining the use of the factory HU and thereby getting some decent sound in his ride (bose blows!). But this is just a guess

 

Yeah, I do want to upgrade my system. I jus didn't think LOCB's were that much. But thanks NSXNEXT.

 

Y2K3CL-S, how's your music sound? And how do you like that Alpine EQ?

 

I am extremely pleased with the sound of this upgrade. It takes this thing from the quality of an AM/FM portable radio to something just this side short of awesome. Only problem is a small noise problem which we are still trying to isolate and eliminate, but once that is resolved I'll definitely be very, very happy with the system ... it's just taking a bit longer to get there than I had envisioned. And this (or any) EQ is definitely needed as the typical base/treble controls are useless - especially if using any kind of aftermarket amps, as they will magnify the poor sound if you don't use one, IMHO.

 

Will someone please explain to me why you guys are going through all this trouble with this LOCB's when you can just cut the wires from the factory headunit before they enter the factory amp in the trunk?

 

, i don't understand either

 

How can you add an EQ if you do it that way? I definitely want to add an EQ. ??????????????????

 

That's been my question also. I don't see anybody who is just tapping into the wires before the factory amp running thru an EQ, unless they are using the types that you set in the trunk and then never adjust them (especially when moving). Also makes for an unnecessary run of RCA's from the splice in the trunk back to the EQ in the post-it tray, and then back to the amps. The sound you get listening to the aftermarket speakers thru aftermarket amps, using the factory HU with the EQ in the defeat mode just plain sucks! The treble/bass controls on the HU will never come close to providing the clarity and definition that one gets when using an EQ or DSP unit between the HU and the amps. Course, I'm not interested in just loud midrange with booming bass - maybe that's my problem.

 

I totally agree.

 

You don't have to splice them in the trunk... you could just as easily tap them as the leave the back of the headunit in the dash. Then you wouldn't have to make the signal cable runs back and forth.

All you need to do is identify the proper wires and then solder a RCA plug onto them so you can plug them into your eq. That would be the easiest thing to do...

I've never seen one of these converters you guys are talking about, but it seems to me its taking an extra step and could only add noise to the system.

 

Where can you get that "RCA plug"?

 

Radio Shack has them...

RCA Plugs

 

Is that what your using?

 

Yip... sounds great!

 

shakademus - don't know if you're still trying to decide about this, but I have finally resolved the problems I was having with my LOCB. It is not/NOT the correct unit to use. Problem is that the factory HU puts out 3.15 vrms on the speaker leads, and the LOCB is looking to provide a constant 2.5 vrms output. I was getting white noise which I thought was directly attributable to my EQ, since putting the EQ in defeat mode would terminate the noise - however alternator windings were still present. Went back to SOUNDGATE's webpage and did some more searching of their hardware, and noted the LOCPREA which is a "passive" unit. No need for grounding (which turned out to be an issue with the newer EQ) and no need for the +12v feed either. This unit is basically a "passive" pot (potentiometer). Spoke to the Operations Manager at SOUNDGATE, and he informed me that their product information can be misleading because by saying that the LOCB is used for the installation of aftermarket amps while maintaining the factory HU in effect does not apply across the board. After providing him with the HU output information - as begrudgeing provided by Acura - and some resistance measurements, he agreed that the LOCPREA was the better route to take. AND, after replacing the LOCB with the PREA tonight, all white noise and alt windings are history. Seems that since the output from the factory leads (hence the inputs to the LOCB) were more than the output that the LOCB was trying to provide, the LOCB effectively magnified the white noise/alt windings I was hearing throughout the system. All is crystal now, and I couldn't be happier. I only resurface this thread because I'm still not convinced that trying to solder two individual speaker leads - one positive and one negative - into an RCA is a smart thing to do, but I do not/NOT criticize those who have done this and are happy with the results. The PREA retails for around $62, but I have found them on the web for under $40. Cost more than going to radio shack and buying the RCA's? yup. Happier with the results and the potential ease in returning the system to stock without worrying about things such as cold solder joints and trying to solder in a very confined area? yup.