ResidualFreedom

After 6 hours of work today......the layout is nearing completion

- I'm going to be covering all the wood with brushed aluminum, matching the amp in the fourth picture.
- I have two amps, one 2400watt and a 5channel , which is installed where the spare tire is supposed to be ( hope I don't get a flat )
- I will be installing a plexi window with neon lights so the amp(s) is visable (I think I'm mainly going to show one of them due to space restrictions, the other will be seen but not directly under the plexi window)
- For starters I will install my cap on the driver side of the trunk with a plexi window and neon light to show the cap... an extra battery will be installed here eventually.
- The passenger side of the trunk will have my AudioControl (four.1) Line Driver and Equalizer..... with a 10 disk MP3/CD player below on the same side (passenger)
- Both the EQ and the Changer will pertrude an 1/8 inch from the finished aluminum cover.
- The thickness of the port seperating the two 15's will remain the same however the height of the port can be adjusted by adding wood to the bottom and the top to tune the speakers (and trunk) properly.. I estimate a 3.5" x 10" port will do... but I've got the ability to adjust..
- That piece of wood spanning the two speakers (on top) is just there for the pic... just a temp piece of wood.

I have to deal with the rear deck lid now... I'll keep you guys posted...

Tsx536

Nice pics...Looks great so far!

Can't wait to see teh finished install!

dark inspire

wow! progress looks good bro, can't wait to see it finished! man ur car is gonna shake the street

elduderino

Looks like lotsa hard work. Hey, RF, you seem to be using 3/4" material in a lot of situations where you could use 1/4 or 3/8"... and a lot of your fascias could be the lighter birch plywood instead of MDF. I only mention it because with all that MDF plus the aluminum, you'll be saggin' in the back end, ya?

Don't want to have too much weight back there is all... done the 3/4" thing and seen it happen.

samkws

how heavy is your system?

and how much does that cost you?

2400 watts is some serious stuff

ResidualFreedom

The box is done in 3/4 but everything else is done in 5/8 MDF, simply because I had 2 1/2 sheets of it laying around..... I'm going to test it with the 5/8 MDF, and if I can get the same stregnth out of 3/8 with aluminum, I will probably change it.. but if I'm going to change it for wieght I might as well fiberglass it, it would be much lighter and stronger.

I am porting through the arm rest hole as well as off the rear windshield so the stregnth of the entire system has to be take in to account, if the boards I use for the sides flex they are not going to give the proper sound through the "arm rest port". Kinda like I'm building a box in a box...

I'm a little worried about saggin in the back end but, hey... it's not the end of the world... I just got headers and I'm putting 200lbs of stereo in my trunk.. go figure? If the saggin and the speed of the car get to me I'll start workin on a fiberglass setup..

Thanks for the advice though..

Scott P

it's lookin good so far, i can't wait to see further updates. One thing you can look at to keep wait down is using 3/4" trupan in place of MDF. it has almost the same strength and wieghs about half as much. I've found , to me atleast, it's alot easier to shape as well.

ou sig

damn RF that looks real nice!!! what did you ever do about your alternator? or are you just going to try it out with the stock electrical system? And be ready for your trunk lid to beg for mercy when you turn it up!, but Im very interested to see what DB you hit - good luck

ResidualFreedom

Probably 100lbs in electrical gear... not including wood.

The cost brand new would be over a grand a piece for each speaker and over grand for the amp... I'ver been building this system for a while and I'll pick up the components I need when I find them around... I would have spent over 5 grand on my system if I had purchased everything brand new. I Love my system but I wouldn't spend two grand on sound...let alone five grand.. For example the subs I have were brought to a buddy of mine (by the company Concept) because he was competing in the finals and these subs were given to him just in case his matching 15's blew. I guess him being in the IASCA finals (placed 2nd by the way with 157.??dbl) was good enough advertizement to validate free speakers, I'm sure that's why he got the subs for free, he got the subs during the comp, after they saw how well he was doing )... I co-incidently got them off of him for a 150 each push shipping just before Christmas... they were sitting in his garage for months and extra Christmas money was needed.. Either way I got away with a crazy deal....

If I add a battery to the trunk or up my stock alternator, I automatically disqualify myself for the street classes in the upcoming DBDRAG Season (got to have stock alternator and no battery in the trunk). I'm not going to "jump into the pool with the big boys without checking the water first.." I think I'll see what I'm hitting with an UPPED stock battery (Turbo Start or a Yellow Optima), then I'll up my alternator and add a battery to the trunk to see what the rear poterntial of the TL is... Iam used to tweaking the system for extra DB.. I don't want to go all out and have little to nowhere to adjust.

Oh yeah.. more pics.. I was busy today too...

don't worry the cap is not mounted, just sittin there

elduderino

Do you have to take out your MDF changer/preamp fascia to change your tailight bulb?

ResidualFreedom

The MDF on the top of each side can be removed so I can get to each brake light and I'm also leaving enough room for the car jack to be removed from it's stock position..... I don't have a spare tire but I want to be able to jack the car up if I do get a popped tire.. Then I'm calling one of the Toronto crew for a spare tire....lol

StreetEffectz

Lookin' good so far....does the trunk lid close? The side enclosures look high enough in the pics that the bar from the trunk would hit, no? Could just be camera trick.....looks good none the less

ResidualFreedom

The wood is cut to allow the hunge to pass by without hitting.. I know it looks semi-butchered.. I would have made the wood alot cleaner if I wasn't planning on covering all the wood with brushed aluminum..

Thanks for the positive comments...

ResidualFreedom

Considering my amps are going to be mounted where the stock tire is, I'm a little concerned about the heat of the amps.. By the way I've got my concept 5 channel amp on it's way soon, so the amps will match eachother and the brushed aluminum plate I'm covering all the wood with.

I'm going to be cutting two openings on either side of the plexi opening and putting in two 2inch x 2inch fans one facing up and one down to circulate air.

As well, I have decided to mount the amps raised off the board to allow the air to circulate around the whole amp. I drilled holes through the board, ran bolts (with washer and lock washer) up through the board, attached two nuts on the top side of the board, popped on the amp, and that leaves a perfect ammount of threads to attach one of those "pretty" nuts to the top to cover the top, a regular one is on now. The regular nuts below won't be visable once the amp is installed.




ONLY ONE MONTH TO THE TORONTO MEET!! I'M GOING TO BE FINISHING THIS MONTH!!

dark inspire

lookin good so far Pat