View Poll Results: Are new 6x9's worth drilling holes out?
Yes, drilling the existing holes slightly bigger is OK



12
60.00%
No, I want it to be perfectly factory replacement



8
40.00%
What are you talking about?



0
0%
Voters: 20. You may not vote on this poll
replacement 6x9 woofers
replacement 6x9 woofers
I'm looking at having some replacement 6x9 woofers made. They would probably sell for about $90 a pair, and they wouldn't look real flashy, but they would sound good and work fine (the protos have been in our car for a couple months).
THey have one issue - like many aftermarket 6x9s (I'm told) the holes don't quite match up with the Honda Acura hole pattern, and to install them you need to drill very slightly larger holes in the R deck and use machine screws and nute to mount them. The MB Quarts fitOK , but I'm told by a couple of installers that many others nowadays don't, and if I drilled out these speaker frame holes to line up, I'm worried that there wouldn't be enough material around the screw head for the mounting to work right.
Now, when I did the 6x9 replacement in the TSX, I was using a 1/4" driver ratchet to R and R the 6x9 mounting screws, and I stripped a couple and had to do this anyway. The R deck metal is really flimsy and so the factory screws strip it with little force.
So here's my question: If you were able to buy 6x9 woofers for this car for $90 a pair, would this hole issue be a problem? Or would you be OK with this 15-minute-tops bit of work? (Put on safety glasses, climb in trunk, drill 8 holes, fold down seat, drop in speakers, insert machine screws from top, reach underneath to tighten nuts onto machine screws...)
THey have one issue - like many aftermarket 6x9s (I'm told) the holes don't quite match up with the Honda Acura hole pattern, and to install them you need to drill very slightly larger holes in the R deck and use machine screws and nute to mount them. The MB Quarts fitOK , but I'm told by a couple of installers that many others nowadays don't, and if I drilled out these speaker frame holes to line up, I'm worried that there wouldn't be enough material around the screw head for the mounting to work right.
Now, when I did the 6x9 replacement in the TSX, I was using a 1/4" driver ratchet to R and R the 6x9 mounting screws, and I stripped a couple and had to do this anyway. The R deck metal is really flimsy and so the factory screws strip it with little force.
So here's my question: If you were able to buy 6x9 woofers for this car for $90 a pair, would this hole issue be a problem? Or would you be OK with this 15-minute-tops bit of work? (Put on safety glasses, climb in trunk, drill 8 holes, fold down seat, drop in speakers, insert machine screws from top, reach underneath to tighten nuts onto machine screws...)
Before I answer, yes, I did vote
Being an installer, I have to mod things everyday, so drilling some holes for a decent set of speakers is no big deal if you ask me
Besides, I can't remember the last time a speaker, let alone a 6 x 9, of any brand, matched up perfectly to factory holes unless, of course, you're using cheap OEM pioneer replacements.
Being an installer, I have to mod things everyday, so drilling some holes for a decent set of speakers is no big deal if you ask me
Besides, I can't remember the last time a speaker, let alone a 6 x 9, of any brand, matched up perfectly to factory holes unless, of course, you're using cheap OEM pioneer replacements.
I wouldn't mind drilling at all. If I have to drill bigger holes I would actually prefer to drill them in the non oem locations. This way I could still put in the factory 6x9's if ever needed.
I think if you want them to appeal to more people though then you should definitely get them made so that the holes all line up and there is no drilling. There are a lot of newbs who would get scared when they hear the word "drill"
That way a lot of the noobz who normally don't DIY would still be able to install themselves and the woofers would probably be a little more popular.
Even though I have a sub, I'll probably still be interested in a set.
So with these new 6x9 woofers.
How many watts RMS will they be?
How bad would they sound if I left them hooked up to the OEM amp?
I think if you want them to appeal to more people though then you should definitely get them made so that the holes all line up and there is no drilling. There are a lot of newbs who would get scared when they hear the word "drill"
That way a lot of the noobz who normally don't DIY would still be able to install themselves and the woofers would probably be a little more popular.
Even though I have a sub, I'll probably still be interested in a set.
So with these new 6x9 woofers.
How many watts RMS will they be?
How bad would they sound if I left them hooked up to the OEM amp?
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The ones I have lined up at present probably would do OK with the OEM amp, but are not as good sounding as the MB Q 269's... but would be lots cheaper. I would ahve to do like 500 pcs to get the holes fixed, tho.
I am working on a set with longer throw than the 269's, perfect hole lineup, 1.5" VCs, and similar cone/surround material. Those will probably NOT do well with the OEM amp - probably too heavy and inefficient. But we'll see.
Oh, probably 100w-150w RMS with a HP filter at 50 or so, probably 75w RMS full-range for the current ones, and I'm thinking for the better ones 200W RMS with the xover and 100W full range.
I am working on a set with longer throw than the 269's, perfect hole lineup, 1.5" VCs, and similar cone/surround material. Those will probably NOT do well with the OEM amp - probably too heavy and inefficient. But we'll see.
Oh, probably 100w-150w RMS with a HP filter at 50 or so, probably 75w RMS full-range for the current ones, and I'm thinking for the better ones 200W RMS with the xover and 100W full range.
Originally Posted by Tsx536
I wouldn't mind drilling at all. If I have to drill bigger holes I would actually prefer to drill them in the non oem locations.
500 pieces. Yeah doesn't sound like it's worth it to get the holes changed.
I understand what you said above ^^ Basically I'd just be drilling bigger holes into the OE locations.
So do you have a timeframe for these yet?
I understand what you said above ^^ Basically I'd just be drilling bigger holes into the OE locations.
So do you have a timeframe for these yet?
Most class D amps are mono. I wouldn't run them mono, they are too far apart and you can still get stereo seperation from them (even though the facotries run with a mono signal into the stereo amp chip).
Most class D's are also bigger than I would run to a pair of 6x9's... I wouldn't go over 100 watts most of the time.
Most class D's are also bigger than I would run to a pair of 6x9's... I wouldn't go over 100 watts most of the time.
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