ncstatesman

I just got my new TL-S last saturday and I'm happy with everything except the Bose Speakers - for lack of a better term, they just don't have any 'bite'- I'm not usre how to explain it, but the bose speakers are analagous to trying to cut a steak with a butter knife - they just don't have enough 'edgei to them.

I want to keep the CD changer and the radio, so given that, is this problem fixable by just by just replacing the Bose speakers with some other brand, or is the radio/Cd changer part of the problem? I really don't want to mess with the dash, so I want to keep the radio/CD.

I'd like to keep the cost of the speakers and sub well below $80o and i'm not looking for a big bass sound - any suggestions?

tls988

I asked the same question last month and here is the link for that discussion:
http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showt...?threadid=29429
I had a wire shop replaced my OEM front and rear door speakers with Polk EX365 2-way (4 ohm). Although the Polk EX365s are not 2 ohm like the Bose but they sound just as loud as the original. In addition, stronger bass and higher frequency response than the Bose paper cone full-range speakers. I selected the Polk EX365s because they played louder than the other speakers that I listened with the same input power at the audio store (probably because it has a 92 db sensitivity spec).

ncstatesman

tls988, thanks for the advice . . . I clicked on the link you gave me, but it is no longer accesable - that's a shame because I'm sure the was some good info on there.

Did you keep the factory radio and CD when you went to the Polk speakers?

Did you keep the Bose woofer, if not, what did you replace it with?

So how does it sound now, was it a big improvement?

I like the 92dB spec - that's pretty good!

Thanks!

Kam

I am also looking into changing the woofer and adding an amp. for it. I found out that you would have to get what is called a Free Air Woofer and I know that Kicker has a good one that's available. The series would be FD series. I think that Panasonic also has one that's available. The problem/question that I am having is which amp. do I choose? There's quite a few out there but there's a few no name brands that are also quite capable and are a lot cheaper. So I am still looking into the amp. situation and until I find the best available for value and quality then I am going on with this mod. Just very picky with what I get I guess.

Master-G

tls988:
The reason that they sound as loud as the original is because the Bose speakers are also rated at 4 ohms! Since I've heard people say that they are from 1 ohm to 8 ohms, I e-mailed Bose about this and they were able to confirm the 4 ohm rating.

Interesting tidbit.....They also informed that that the amp is putting out 12 watts (100 watts for sub) and the sub amp is running a 1/2 ohms!

Master-G

tls988:
The reason that they sound as loud as the original is because the Bose speakers are also rated at 4 ohms! Since I've heard people say that they are from 1 ohm to 8 ohms, I e-mailed Bose about this and they were able to confirm the 4 ohm rating.

Interesting tidbit.....They also informed that that the amp is putting out 12 watts (100 watts for sub) and the sub amp is running a 1/2 ohms!

tls988

ncstatesman

I replaced the front and read door speakers only. The Polk have more bass, treble than the stock speakers. I don't want to replace the stock HU, Amp and CD player at this time because I want to save some money for spoilers, sway bars...

If you select 'search' and search with 'door speakers', you may find the old discussions about replacing the factory speakers.

Van

I wouldn't suggest you to go with a free air sub, because the original one is only 8 inches. It really depends on what kind of bass you like. My friend put 2 Kicker competion in his trunk, and a Kicker ZR240 amp. It sound very loud. Plus, it doesn't take that much place. If you go on ebay, you should be able to find very good deals, and it will cost you way under 800$. Good luck...

Kam

Hey tls988 the site that you posted for the insertion of the aftermarket woofer and alternation of the torsion bars is currently out of order. Is there some way to retrieve this thread??? I am trying this install this weekend.

tls988

Kam,
I just searched in the Forums with 'door speakers' and found my discussion opened back in December. Here is the link:
http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showth...=door+speakers

Kam

Thanks tls988 for the info. I did get alot of info from that thread but I really was looking for the change out of the OEM subwoofer to an aftermarket one like the free air subwoofer by Pioneer. I was also thinking about adding an amplifier for that woofer alone. I think I read that there is a factory amplifier for that woofer behind the rear passesenger seat. Hmmm... Does this mean that I have to remove this or what???????

Help!!!!

systek

you dont have to remove it, cause its not in the way. it is just a little bigger than your hand...generally speaking and is sandwiched between metal and the back seat. if you get a small sub, you could probably use that amp instead of buying another one...try it before spending more money on a sub amp.

Kam

Hey Systek, I found out that I do not need a free air subwoofer and that I can install a woofer that is used in ported enclosurers but I am not sure. Have you heard of anything like this? Is it possible? Let me know if you or anyone has heard of this sort of application and how it sounded?

Master-G

The problem with the factory sub amp is that it's only pushing out 100 watts at 1/2 ohms (confirmed by BOSE). So even if you install a 1ohm sub, you're only going to have 50 watts of power, which probably isn't enough to adequately power a higher-end subwoofer.

Kam

Yes but I was going to install an aftermarket amplifier as well. And the question still stands, "Does the subwoofer HAVE to be a FREE AIR or can it be a REGULAR ONE that is used in PORTED enclosures ex. the pioneer 10in DVC model.
Master-G thanks for the info on the wattage and ohms on the OEM sub.

Master-G

Kam:
If your're adamant about putting a sub in the factory location, then you will need to stick with a free-air type.

I know that you may not want to do this, but I would highly recommend that you go ahead a put your aftermarket sub in a box instead of trying to put one in the factory location. You may think that a box will take up too much space but in fact some subwoofers actually need very little. Take, for example, the Image Dynamics IDQ 10. At most it will only need 0.60 cubic feet in a sealed box and can actually go as small as 0.30! ID subs have some of the best sound quality on the market and can get pretty loud too! You can check out their stuff by clicking here.

Just to give you an idea of how small even a 0.60 cubic feet box is, you could install it in the very back of your trunk and still have plenty of room to remove the flooring that covers the spare tire.

But if you still want to go with installing a sub in the OEM location, keep in mind that it may end up costing a lot of time and money in order to get it looking and sounding right. Just something you might want to think about.

"Note to self....I wonder if everyone has gotten the info about the Bose sub. <looks at my previous THREE entries>"

Kam

Thanks 'G' I will be looking into those ID woofers. But a piece of me still wants the stock look

systek

i got that, but i was simply giving him logical advice....some lower end subs would be just fine w/50 watts....

Master-G

I wasn't making a sarcastic remark to anyone. I just thought that it was funny that I made three posts (including the double post ) that talked about the Bose sub. I guess I need to read the whole thread so that I won't repeat myself.

Brewboy

If your not looking for heavy bass, DEI makes an 8" midbass driver(part #3084) with inverted magnet that only needs 2-1/2" mounting depth. Don't know anything else about them nor how they sound or if they are intended for IB. Not very much info on them, they are rather new. Also maybe a 8" Morel or Vifa driver for a stock location replacement with an aftermarket amp would probably sound better then stock sub. Might need to add a small baffle to decrease mounting depth.

DJREKKA

if i install an amp for subs, can i use the signal off the bose amp im the trunk instead of running new wires

Brewboy

Yes, but it would be best to use the pre-amp signal going into the Bose amp. Why take the signal after the Bose amp when it has added its distortion/noise to the signal? Directions for using the pre-amp signal have been talked about before, just do a search.

DJREKKA

i thought the bose amp for the sub was in the trunk, thats why i said that. thanks for the info.

wv5b

If you place a good quality sub. in a box and do the job right and have some pretty deep bass, will the vibration affect the Nav system?? Can it handle all the bass without so much vibration the dvd won't read?

Mr Hyde

Anyone have any info on these subs as factory direct fit replacements using an additioanal amp?



http://www.illusionaudio.com/illusion/Driversx.html

systek

they arent factory replacements for any car... all u can do is ck the mounting hole diameter and hope it fits our car...plus they are far from being a freeair sub...very nice higher end sub though