did anyone do anything about the rear deck vibrations? it's annoying the hell out of me and i was just wondering what my options were.
for anyone with OEM spoilers. does anyone think putting silicon around the outer edge of the red part of the spoiler would help dampen it? (the red part where the brake light is).

 

mine did and i cascade matted the whole thing a few times over...i also found my liscence plate rattleing so i took the frame off, cascaded the back and bolted that sucker down...

 

It sounds dumb but you gotta get someone to sit in the trunk and then check to see where the rattling is coming from. My guess is its the tension bars that lift the trunk lid.

 

oh man, you wouldn't believe what I saw at my local installer. he had 'dynamat' license plate frames. then again, maybe you guys have seen it before but it caught me by surprise!! lol! but now that I think of it .. yea.. it makes plenty sense cuz I have a damn license plate that wouldn't stop rattling in my old car and it looks like it might happen on the new one too.. maybe this could be the source of your rattles too?

 

It was the tension bars in my trunk. The rear deck lid rattled too. I just pounded on it, and it eventually went away.

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Rosewood 97 3.2 TL Premium
-HID Headlights
-PIAA 1400X Platinum Series Fogs
-Clifford Solaris Alarm w/Remote Start
-Alpine Deck 7862
-Punch 800 Amplifier
-Obcon Custom Prefab Box w/Fosgate HX2 subs
-MB Quart Mids Front/Rear
-Infiniti Tweets
-10% Tint
-Factory Spoiler to be ordered!

 

Dynamat license plate frames are worthless. adding mass to the licence plate is not going to stop it from rattling agianst other objects. A cheeper and more effective fix is to use a peice of 3M double sided adhesive foam tape between the two surfaces that rattle together.

Also, I applied two layers of a generic dynamat extreme(that I got off of ebay for 1/10th the price, and thats exactly the same stuff) on the entire underside of my rear deck. I did'nt do this to cure rattles, I did it to lower the resonant frequency of the rear deck and to further seal off the back wave of the sub cone from canceling the front wave. This provides for tighter, more accurate bass response.

If anybody is interested in learning more about the facts, not rumors, about car audio, then visit www.carsound.com and go to the forums. There are industry experts that post and also answer questions. Their expertise is proven by the many car audio contest (sound quality and SPL) wins. Another great site to visit is www.autosound2000.com. Here, you will find only facts, proven by physics, by degree'd professionals namely Richard Clard and David Navone.

Knowledge is King. Don't fall for the marketing hype - Especially served up by Dynamat.


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99' LGM, H&R Sport Springs, Comptech sways, 37% Platinum+, AEM SRI, Inspire tailend, Gigalux bulbs: BW 401 front corners and BW 501 rear blinkers, Polarg M-6 reverse lights

Our reality is only a faint shadow of the truth

 

The license frame is not the problem (at least in my case). My Alumpapro sub hits so hard that it rattles the trunk latch - the part where the deck lid hooks up to that piece of metal when you close the trunk. I have my whole trunk Dynamated and a bunch of foam stuffed into the deck lid (behind the logo and lettering) and the latch is the last rattle. Can't really put anything therre cuz I don't want my lid to get stuck. Any suggestions?

 

Oh, before I got a new sub my stock sub rattled too. But not the rear deck or torsion bars - it was the sub itself. It vibrated so much that it rattled. Guess it couldn't handle the Tupac

 

Tupac's shaking it from beyond the grave

Also check that no wiring is rattling, duct tape seems to be favorite in competitions...worked for me in my Maxima, the trunk release cable would resonate at certain frequencies.......pain in the ass...

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"Now you see that evil will always triumph, because good is dumb." --Dark Helmet

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