I've been looking at This amp to power my components and coaxials, and then i'm going to bridge the 5th and 6th channels for a sub.. But there are a few things i don't understand.

- It shows different RMS ratings for 12.5v and 14.5v, i have no idea what this means.

- I chose a receiver with 5 volt RCA outputs because i heard that helped with distortion and noise. Will i need any special RCA's or anything else for this?

- If i listen to rock and techno, what size coaxials would be best for my rear? 6x9 or 6.5? Also, i'm looking for a very tight, not "rattly" sound from my sub. What size sub would be best? I also heard sealed would give me the type sound i'm looking for. I'm not looking for loud bass at all, just tight and precise.


Sorry for all the questions

 

JL and a few others rate their amps at a realistic input voltage of 12.5 volts. Use the 14.4 volt spec to compare the JL to other amps rated at the “fox in charge of the hen house” CEA rating of 14.4 volts.

No special RCAs are needed for the 5 volt deck.

Pick speakers that you like the sound of, if you find 6x9s that you like buy them.

jeff

 

rated power at voltage, its all about how much power your car gives to the amp, on my YA, just like yours (assuming youre in a 2.x) will give 1 amp around 14V on 4ga. inputs and 4V pre-outs according to my amp, usually a reputable company will rate at 14.4 and 12V, but these numbers are all RATED output, under load things change, like the difference between rated HP and actual WHP

you dont need any sort of special interconnects for high voltage pre-outs I used the same set on my old 2V units, and my newer 4V unit.. but I will suggest paying the extra for a good set of ZeroNoise sets or similar shielded designs

with a sub in the back the rear speakers are there for 1 thing, fill....... the fronts take care of the higher frequencies and the rears usually take low-mid range frequencies, so cone size really doesnt matter, hell if you get good enough of components up front you wont need the rear unless you ever have rear seat passengers that you really care about

Subwoofer boxes aer basically like this:
Sealed = more response and tighter bass across a wider frequency range
Vent/port = a balance, sacrifice crispness for more bass at a smaller frequency range
bandpass= Smallest frequency response and loudest bass

you start to get into the complex stuff like Isobarics and 4th order (and the like) boxes, which you really dont wanna deal with in your case

 

Rated power is how much output power (watts) an amp can delivery into a load (speakers) at a specified power supply voltage and speaker impedance.

Rating an amp at the higher 14.4-volt level generally yields higher and mostly unrealistic output power ratings. A typical car electrical system is about 13.8 volts. Rating an amp using a 12.5-volt is more accurate since car electrical systems seldom see 14.4 volts under load.

Without getting to technical, just compare amps using the same voltage level into the same impedance. Don’t mix the numbers or you won’t be comparing apples to apples.
Don’t compare an amps 12.5-volt specs to another’s 14.4 volt spec, likewise don’t compare the 2 ohm numbers with 4 ohm numbers.

The input voltage from the HU 2volts, 5volts have nothing to do with output power. Expensive interconnects are a waste of good money, so are the real cheap ones.

jeff