Question about tapping remote wire
Question about tapping remote wire
Ok. the wire you tap into off the stock amp is yellow/white correct? Tried that, and I still don't have any power to my amp! Everything else has been done, I can't figure it out.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
there are two wires that are white/yellow. make sure you tapped into the wire that has dominant yellow with a white stripe. the other one is more white with a yellow stripe.
http://silverknight.clickhere2.net/sound.html
http://silverknight.clickhere2.net/sound.html
Originally posted by icy CL
there are two wires that are white/yellow. make sure you tapped into the wire that has dominant yellow with a white stripe. the other one is more white with a yellow stripe.
http://silverknight.clickhere2.net/sound.html
there are two wires that are white/yellow. make sure you tapped into the wire that has dominant yellow with a white stripe. the other one is more white with a yellow stripe.
http://silverknight.clickhere2.net/sound.html
IF I can't get any power to the amp from this, then what do you think it could be?
There are 3 power connections on an amp.
BATT: connect to battery.
REMOTE: connect to a wire that is turned on when the head unit is on (can be connect to ignition wire which is on when your car is running).
GND: connect to the body of your car via a short route available.
If you have made all three connections and your amp doesn't turn on, check the following.
1. Fuse
2. Make sure your remote wire and power wire are "hot" (the voltage should be at least 12v).
3. Ground cable is connected securely to the body of the car.
If all of these conditions are met, kiss your amp good bye.
Good luck.
BATT: connect to battery.
REMOTE: connect to a wire that is turned on when the head unit is on (can be connect to ignition wire which is on when your car is running).
GND: connect to the body of your car via a short route available.
If you have made all three connections and your amp doesn't turn on, check the following.
1. Fuse
2. Make sure your remote wire and power wire are "hot" (the voltage should be at least 12v).
3. Ground cable is connected securely to the body of the car.
If all of these conditions are met, kiss your amp good bye.
Good luck.
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Originally posted by SilverKnight
There are 3 power connections on an amp.
BATT: connect to battery.
REMOTE: connect to a wire that is turned on when the head unit is on (can be connect to ignition wire which is on when your car is running).
GND: connect to the body of your car via a short route available.
If you have made all three connections and your amp doesn't turn on, check the following.
1. Fuse
2. Make sure your remote wire and power wire are "hot" (the voltage should be at least 12v).
3. Ground cable is connected securely to the body of the car.
If all of these conditions are met, kiss your amp good bye.
Good luck.
There are 3 power connections on an amp.
BATT: connect to battery.
REMOTE: connect to a wire that is turned on when the head unit is on (can be connect to ignition wire which is on when your car is running).
GND: connect to the body of your car via a short route available.
If you have made all three connections and your amp doesn't turn on, check the following.
1. Fuse
2. Make sure your remote wire and power wire are "hot" (the voltage should be at least 12v).
3. Ground cable is connected securely to the body of the car.
If all of these conditions are met, kiss your amp good bye.
Good luck.
Silver - what's your opinion, is it better to ground to the chassis or back to the battery?
Originally posted by lowpost
it'll probably help you to buy a test light also - they're cheap and can tell you what wire is live
Silver - what's your opinion, is it better to ground to the chassis or back to the battery?
it'll probably help you to buy a test light also - they're cheap and can tell you what wire is live
Silver - what's your opinion, is it better to ground to the chassis or back to the battery?
Originally posted by SilverKnight
Chassis only, please. I'm at work so this is all I could type but I can guarantee you no one would recommend to tie ground to the battery terminal.
Chassis only, please. I'm at work so this is all I could type but I can guarantee you no one would recommend to tie ground to the battery terminal.
I've heard opinions either way. My first two systems were grounded back to the battery and I never had any problems, even with the Soundstream Class A amps which are notorious for noise if not grounded properly. Some installers I've talked to told me that most installers ground the amps to the chassis only because it is easier/convenient and it's just more of a pain to run a 4 guage ground from the battery to the trunk. But give a choice, they would groun to the battery becasue it was cleaner, circuit-wise. Now none of my systems were load heavy/competition systems so I don't know if that makes a difference.
Is there a specific reason why you don't recommend grounding to the battery?
I have to agree with what you said.
1. Convenience.
2. The ground cable comes from the battery terminal may pick up noises from the alternator or noises from other wires (unless you use high quality wire and route it away from vehicle's wires).
1. Convenience.
2. The ground cable comes from the battery terminal may pick up noises from the alternator or noises from other wires (unless you use high quality wire and route it away from vehicle's wires).
Originally posted by SilverKnight
I have to agree with what you said.
1. Convenience.
2. The ground cable comes from the battery terminal may pick up noises from the alternator or noises from other wires (unless you use high quality wire and route it away from vehicle's wires).
I have to agree with what you said.
1. Convenience.
2. The ground cable comes from the battery terminal may pick up noises from the alternator or noises from other wires (unless you use high quality wire and route it away from vehicle's wires).
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