Power CAP
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Power CAP
hey guys, I have one last question about my audio set-up, and then I am all set. I already purchased everything I need and scheduled and install for next Friday. So for the "lucky" Chicago guys, they will be able to hear my system.
My question is this. The installer is telling me that I need a power CAP. He wants to sell me one for 320 bucks, he says is 5 farrat. I don't really know too much about it, but for those who have 2 amps, do you all use power CAPS, or are you getting along fine without one. Also, has anyone upgraded their alternator? If yes, can you give me some details. Thanks.
P.S. I have 2 JL audio amps. 450/4 and 500/1, and one 10w7 sub.
My question is this. The installer is telling me that I need a power CAP. He wants to sell me one for 320 bucks, he says is 5 farrat. I don't really know too much about it, but for those who have 2 amps, do you all use power CAPS, or are you getting along fine without one. Also, has anyone upgraded their alternator? If yes, can you give me some details. Thanks.
P.S. I have 2 JL audio amps. 450/4 and 500/1, and one 10w7 sub.
#2
5 farad? I have never heard of one that big. You sure it wasn't 0.5 farad? If it is, it shoud not be $320. Should be under a hundred bucks for a half farad cap. I have a 1 farad capacitor for my two amps, and they draw more current than yours. I would definitely recommend getting one, keeps your lights from dimming and makes sure the amps get all the power they need. Check them out on crutchfield. One farad should be fine.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-KorGTl1...arch=capacitor
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-KorGTl1...arch=capacitor
#4
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Yes, there are 5 Farad caps. However, 5 Farad would be an overkill. BTW, "Power CAP" is a brand . Without a cap, you will experience dimming lights. I havent install my cap in and my lights are dimming whenever I crank up the system with
JL 350/4 and JL 500/1
JL 350/4 and JL 500/1
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Yeah, the guy said 5 farrots. and he made sure I understood that it was a good one. He said the original price is above 500, but he was hooking me up. I don't know how much he was hooking me up, but if I need one, that's what I would get.
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I'm running a 10W7 and 500/1. No cap and no dimming lights unless I crank it to the point where my ears start ringing.
A 1.0 farad cap should be sufficient. Go with a 2.4 farad cap if you want to spend the extra cash.
And, if you have money to blow, get a yellow optima deep cycle battery.
Upgrading the alternator will probably be most effective...and probably the most expensive.
A 1.0 farad cap should be sufficient. Go with a 2.4 farad cap if you want to spend the extra cash.
And, if you have money to blow, get a yellow optima deep cycle battery.
Upgrading the alternator will probably be most effective...and probably the most expensive.
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After I installed 3 amps - for 2 subs, and all my mids, my alternator died on me while driving. Luckily I stalled in front of a Honda dealership. They took out my alternator, sent it to an electrics shop, had it rewound and had a different rectifyer put in. The bill was about $230 CDN (R&I labour and rebuild) My battery was damaged after that too. Had a dead cell or something - would start sometimes, then be dead 5 minutes later, but replaced that too. Now I have no problems at all.
#10
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THE real deal on caps is that they are really useless crap. a capacitor stores the energy from the battery and once the bass hits and draws that energy from the cap, the cap is now half or more discharged and now needs to recharge, which takes a while. is anything, buy a second battery, i recommend a stinger dry cell battery w/ an isolater. these batteries have more amperage and are like a shitload of caps. this will cost you less and actually do the proper job that you need it to do. a cap will not keep constant voltage to your amps for then to put the claimed wattage, with a second dry cell battery, you will be able to supply the proper constant voltage.
also ask the guy selling you all the stuff if he has a cap in his car.
when he says no, you will know why.
what shop/ store?
also ask the guy selling you all the stuff if he has a cap in his car.
when he says no, you will know why.
what shop/ store?
#11
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A cap is a quick resolution for mild light dimming (too much current drawn) only. If your interior lights are dimmed at every single bass note, then a rewound alternator is much needed.
RR32CLS,
How long would you define "a while"? If "a while" is defined in normal standard meaning minutes or seconds, then I would recommend you to take ELET101 or something... The time to charge a cap is measured with ms (milisecond) for big capacitors.
RR32CLS,
How long would you define "a while"? If "a while" is defined in normal standard meaning minutes or seconds, then I would recommend you to take ELET101 or something... The time to charge a cap is measured with ms (milisecond) for big capacitors.
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Some of you guys are almost all the way right..... A cap is supposed to rapidly charge and discharge power for the amplifier. If it's further than about 12 inches away from the amp, meaning more than 1 foot of wire, there is no point in doing it. It supplies quick bursts of power for you amplifier, and the goal is to get it to respond as opposed to your alternator. Yes it can help with dimming lights, but if you really want to prevent dimming lights, put a cap on the light. Think of the cap like the tank of a Toilet, it releases quickly, but takes a while to fill up.
The problem with a lot of the huge farad caps is that they are all wired in series, meaning more impedance, and a slower discharge, defeating the purpose of having a cap. As far as adding a second battery instead, remember that a cap discharges faster than a battery, and you alternator will have a lot easier time refilling the cap than a Second Battery.
Basically, a cap is a bandaid for an electrical system that is a bit lacking, you're usually better off rewinding your alternator, but most people just assume that a cap is going to fix it. A cap doesn't fix anything, it just bandaids the problem, the problem is still there..... Hope that all makes sense, if anyone disagrees feel free to put up your response, and any evidence that you have to the contrary...
The problem with a lot of the huge farad caps is that they are all wired in series, meaning more impedance, and a slower discharge, defeating the purpose of having a cap. As far as adding a second battery instead, remember that a cap discharges faster than a battery, and you alternator will have a lot easier time refilling the cap than a Second Battery.
Basically, a cap is a bandaid for an electrical system that is a bit lacking, you're usually better off rewinding your alternator, but most people just assume that a cap is going to fix it. A cap doesn't fix anything, it just bandaids the problem, the problem is still there..... Hope that all makes sense, if anyone disagrees feel free to put up your response, and any evidence that you have to the contrary...
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A capacitor supplies your car audio amplifiers full power through stabilization of the vehicle's charging system. Voltage fluctuations caused by extreme load peaks (deep bass notes) are compensated for through the use of a cap.
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definatly sounds like overkill. but if you aren't planning on installing any more aftermarket electronics, i think the dry cell better would be too much. yes, the dry cell is more effective as far as cost (anticipating future installs) but it is not space effective. go with a 1.0 cap and you'll be fine. stop letting the installer dig through your pockets. remember, its still your car.
#16
the 5 fard cap that he is selling you is the alumapro and if you ask me i would say it is by far the best cap on the market... yes they are alittle more expensive than the cheap 1 farad caps but they more advance... but $320 is a little high.. you can find them on ebay for about $200... i agree that caps dont help much in the realm of dimming lights but they do help in sound quality... they will supply the extra voltage needed during a musical peak to prevent the amp from clipping the signal... no for the comment that caps discharge fast and charge up slow.. i would have to disagree... a cap will charge and dischange based on the RC time constant... it takes 5 time constants to charge a cap up fully... and will also take 5 time constants to discharge a cap fully...
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Originally posted by John*K
FPAEP -
Where did you go for the install?
How much does it usually run for a "better alternator?"
FPAEP -
Where did you go for the install?
How much does it usually run for a "better alternator?"
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