ok, i attempted to intall a 10" sub and a RF amp to my stock bose HU last night. I got everything wired as i read (ORNG=R/TO,BLU/GRN=+,ORNG/BLU=-) and i turned it on and the amp didnt cut on. Do i have to connect the connector back to the stock amp for it to work? cuz i didnt...well my dad made me put everything back, but i sneakily left the power wire run so i could try it again later. i HATE that feeling, when you cut if on to test it out and it doesnt work...

 

Need more info to help you.

The quick basic requirements of your RF amp:

1) Main power wire run to the BATTERY (10g wire MINIMUM)
2) Main ground wire (<1.5 ft. in length) run to a properly prepared grounding point (10g wire MINIMUM)
3) Remote turn on lead from the HU (either the A3 GRN/RED or the A1 ORN - - check with a voltmeter/test light...or someone may respond to this to clarify things)

That's it. Amps are very simple beasts. The above mentioned connections aren't negotiable. They are must haves. If you've got the proper power and ground wires, maybe you just haven't gotten the proper remote turn on lead.

Good luck.

 

you didnt answer my question. i know car audio, and i think i know what my RF amp needs. The power is good, the ground is good but no power. Now, through the process of elimination, i know its the R/TO. my question was...after ive tapped the R/TO wire in the stock amp, do i need to connect it back to itself (i had separated it for ease of tapping)?

 

please help, i need to get this done and my car put back together. Do i have to reconnect the stock amp for the orange remote turn on wire to work? Is the orange wire the remote turn on?

 

 

I don't think there is any reason why you should have to re-connect the the remote wire to itself. I completely removed the stock sub amp and mine works fine. It is possible that your amp needs more juice from the trigger wire to power up the amp.
If that is the case then you will need to add a relay that is triggered by the orange wire but sends system voltage directly from the battery to the trigger input on the amp.


Good luck,
Iggy

 

hey thanks iggy.
i got a question. i got power to the amp but i get no music. i tapped the bass (+) and bass (-) lines (BLU/GRN and ORN/BLU) coming out of the stock amp. did i tap the wrong ones. i went from there to the positive and negative leads going into my RF Highlevel imputs. Maybe im missing something?

 

I didn't mean to come across to you as condescending in my previous posts. I guess I saw your "newbie" badge and thought I could offer some basic help. While I don't doubt you know car audio, I have installed car audio gear for over 15 years. So, I'm also no dummy when it comes to this.

Maybe I'll be able to offer you a bit more help this time than I did last time. Everyone here wants to help you.

OK, you've got a good 12V power supply to the amp and a good ground to the amp....based on what you've stated previously.

The only thing the amp needs is a 12V remote input to fire it up. Have you tested the remote input using a voltmeter to make sure it's firing up when you power up the HU? This may sound rudimentary but that is all that is missing. If your main power supply and ground is good....you know, you checked them both...then all that is left is the "kick" from the remote lead.

You shouldn't have to reconnect the remote wire to get juice. If it's kicking out the juice, then that is all that's required. Your best bet is to fire up your system with everything hooked up and then test the remote input to your amp using a voltmeter. Obviously, if you're not getting 12V, then your amp isn't going to turn on.

It sounds like you're not getting the 12V from the remote lead. You'll know in 2 seconds if you check with a voltmeter.

Iggy is the man when it comes to understanding which wires do which for the stock HU/Amp.

I opted to ditch the entire stock system for an aftermarket one. Any way you slice it, your amp isn't turning on. It will take a grand total of 5 minutes to figure out which lead does so.

Just my $0.02.

I live in your neck of the woods. Garner is about 2 miles from Raleigh. I'd be happy to help you in any way that I can.

Cheers,
Pete

 

ok thanks bozzchem. yeah, i eventually got power to the amp but no music. yeah, i can't PM, so if we could exchange phone numbers or somehting privately that would be great. Yeah, im thankful for all the help i can get.
Matt

 

I see your problem. blu/grn & orn/blu are line level inputs to the stock amp. these need to go to line level inputs on your amp as well. You will need to get some rca jacks to put on the ends of your signal wires. Otherwise, you could just tap off the speaker wires that go to the stock amp and plug those into your high level inputs.

Iggy

 

ok, so which wires do i need to tap to go intomy high level inputs? The black/white and white/green wires? I tried this and still no sound, and im running out of wires to work with. Thanks so much for your help. i do have spare rca's lying around, if i were to go ahead and use those instead of using the high-level, how exactly would i do that?
thanks again so much
matt

 

Based on your earlier reply, you had cut the remote turn on wire going to the stock amp which means it is no longer turning on. If the stock amp isn't on then you won't get speaker signals out of it.

My reccomendation would be to tap the line level signal(BLU/GRN,ORNG/BLU) and put an rca plug on the end of your new patch cord.


BLU/GRN=+, which will go to the center post, ORNG/BLU=- will go to the other post. You can use either crimp type or solder type which is always prefferable. If your amp requires two rca plugs for the sub input then you will need a "Y" connector. The sub signal is mono so this won't hurt anything.

Igster

 

by center post what exactly do you mean. BTW i have RF RCA's which are red.

 

OK, you want to add an aftermarket amp/sub setup to the Blose system.

You've got a proper main power and main ground to your amp. All you need is a remote turn on to make it all happen.

Keep in mind that the Blose system is VERY unfriendly towards "intruders" (non-Blose) components.

If you've already got your amp supplied with the proper power and ground, you can always opt to use a fused +12V input to act as your remote lead. This is common in situations where the remote lead of the HU is blown from trying to "kick start" too many optionaly accessories. (Which is why I ALWAYS use a relay rather than the HU).

OK. So, the power lead to the amp is good. The ground is good. That leaves one thing out...the remote turn on lead. This is where your voltmeter becomes priceless. When you turn on your HU, if you're not getting +12V at the turn on/remote wire of your amp, nothing else matters.

Iggy and Southbound are the champs when it comes to this. They have figured out every nook and cranny of the Blose system.

All I can tell you is that if you wish to retain the stock HU, you need to determine...using a voltmeter...which wire will give you the +12V kick you need to power the amp.

If you would like more personal help, email me at bozzchem@hotmail.com

Give me your phone number and we can discuss how to fix your problem. You probably live close enough to me that I can help you fix it personally.

Your call......

 

alright, whenever you are free one weekend id like to get this install done. If we could get together that would be great. so this weekend is no good, im beach-bound, but maybe after like 7 or so on any given weekday of maybe next weekend. you tell me when youre free and ill post my cell #, then once you've seen it ill delete my post. BTW, thanks so much for helping me out, after all i am new to the Acura Audio world, its great to have someone offer a helping hand.
Matt

 

Tell you what, don't post anything personal. I don't know if you have PM ability (since I'm not totally sure how the hierarchy of this board operates) so I'll PM you. I think you will be able to respond to my PM since I know I can do so.

I'm typically pretty busy on the weekends, but I really enjoy this sh!t. I love to see someone get their system rocking!

Keep in mind, I do have a fee.........beer!

 

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