I have everything tapped and plugged in. The power and remote are good b/c the light comes on and off when only one are removed. The RCAs are good b/c their is noise from the sub whenever i touch the RCA output on the amp. And.... the ground is good b/c I accidently sparked it when I moved my amp and the ground wire popped out.

Any help or suggestions would be a blessing and appreciated.

Thanks,

Kevin

 

check the polarity on the sub!!!

 

KrazyKrust:
Woohoo debugging! As much fun in car stereos as in computer software (complete sarcasm here).

Ok so your amp is on...and it turns on and off with the car...so you know your remote and power wires are cool. So that means your problem lies in one of 3 things: your wiring, your amp, or your sub. Now if your sub is brand new I seriously doubt that is it. So the second choice is your amp. Again, if it's brand new I doubt it. So your best best is to start on your wiring.

Now how easily you can debug depends on what you have to work with. If you have a CD player with a line out that's a good start. Go grab a broken pair of headphones, or go to Radio Shack and get a 3.5mm (1/4") jack that terminates in 2 wires and plug that into the CD player. Now either cut the headphones off, or if you got the Radio Shack one, then plug it into the amp. If you hear your music, then it's the wiring between the stock wiring and your amp. If not, then that's not the problem. Make sure to check your wiring between your sub and your amp. The right polarity (though you'd still hear sound), and that it's all connected and not touching anything else (grounded). If you have another sub...try hooking it up in place of the one you have. Do the same with another amp and the same wiring if one is available. Good luck.

Austin519

 

ill bet you 10 bucks if you put a volt meter on that remote wire if it is comming from the stock HU you arent getting 12 volts. the stock HU turnon is weak. i have seen several amps where the light comes on but there is not enough voltage present to actually turn on the amp. try turning the system on and temporarly toughing the +12 battery connection to the turn on wire at the amp. even a paperclip will work and see if the amp comes on.

 

preludeshfan:
"ill bet you 10 bucks if you put a volt meter on that remote wire if it is comming from the stock HU you arent getting 12 volts. the stock HU turnon is weak. i have seen several amps where the light comes on but there is not enough voltage present to actually turn on the amp. try turning the system on and temporarly toughing the +12 battery connection to the turn on wire at the amp. even a paperclip will work and see if the amp comes on."

But he said already that his amp light DOES come on

Austin519

 

Austin read this sentance again>>
i have seen several amps where the light comes on but there is not enough voltage present to actually turn on the amp.

in other words just because the light is on does not mean the amp is ACTUALLY on. i have seen a personal experience where a friend and i went through 3 amps and couldent figure out why they "looked" like they were on but werent and they worked on a bench. weirdest **** i ever seen! use a volt meter and check before you assume it is bad.

 

preludeshfan:
Wow...I've never had an amp do that. To do that the light would have to be wired in before the turn on transistor. That's really weird. So you're saying that the remote light is on but it doesn't flip the relay in the amp? Screwy man. But I believe you.

Austin519

 

yea as a matter of fact the JL 500/1 was a perfect example. the light came on and there was no sound. i bridged a wire from the batt connection to the remote turn on and it worked so since i just had it in there temporary i just left it on all the time. i dident drive my car for about 3 days and the battery was almost dead

 

preludeshfan:
Weird man...weird. I have never had that happen with a JL amp...I guess I have just missed that voltage window. Oh and KrazyKrust didn't have the amp hooked up to the sub he told me over IM. Hee hee hee...

Austin519

 

now that is priceless....jajaja

 

Yeah that felt really good after I had redoing and reattaching every single wire in the car, I finally realized that I never attached the dam sub to the amp. A minor brain fart that costed me 2 days of frustration and would have eliminated my brain anurism (the anurism was so bad I forgot how to spell anurism!!!).

Thanks for all of your encouragment. ha

If anyone needs help with their systems feel free to ask for advice! (sarcasm)

Nevertheless the sub is hooked up and the stock is removed and it sounds great. Extra bass adds a whole new level to audio.

I just want to thank Austin519 and Brewboy for their posts that helped me out so much. IF you just had wrote in your post to attach the speaker to the amp! j/k

Thanks again.

 

KrazyKrust:
Heh heh...actually be happy dude...if this is all the worry you have in your sound system you're golden . But, and I feel like I have to do this...I'll quote my first reply to you...

"Make sure to check your wiring between your sub and your amp."

Heh heh...but again man, I'm glad that's all it was.

Austin519

 

austin is right...that was an easy costless(is that a word???) things could have been worse, like when my cmp15 arced between the two tinsel leads and got fused together...that was horrible, it burned my amp too...damn mtx says its got protection circuits....that dont work...

 

check fuse and turn on wire.. REM.. prob not enough power going in... that happened to my frined's civic...