TL: Need help with Full Audio Facelift
04-07-2010, 12:28 AM
#1
Need help with Full Audio Facelift
Hello people on the internet, 
So after much time researching on the net, asking different people (I’d like to especially thank eggyhustle, ihatecars, princelybug and kingofpain for all of their help! You guys are awesome!) and actually listening to different components, I have purchased the items below for some audio upgrades on my 06 Acura TL:
Image Dynamics CTX65CS components (front speakers)
Alpine PDX 4.100
JL 10w1v2, 4ohm, SVC subwoofer
Alpine MRP-M500 amplifier
I actually have the subwoofer and monoblock amplifier set up in the car right now, so I purchased a “Stinger SPD570 Car Audio Power and Ground Distribution Block” as well so I won’t have to run another set of power/ground lines. In wiring the subwoofer, I thought it was fairly simple having done it only for the second time in my life … now comes the problem though.
I understand that I can use the distribution block for the power and ground, which is great. However, what can I do with the RCAs in order to lead them to the second amplifier as well, designated for the speakers? Also, for the remote line, would I be able to simply t-tap it to the remote line that is already currently connected to my subwoofer amp?
As for wiring the speakers themselves, I think I understand what the crossovers are there for, but how do I go about wiring those? Also, if I want to power my rear stock speakers with my PDX amplifier as well, do I just tap some wires into the existing stock wires and hook them up to two of the channels of the amplifier (for left and right rear)?
I think those are all that I’m stuck on for the moment, so thank you in advance! Hopefully all this time, effort, sweat and money will all be worth it in the end!
So after much time researching on the net, asking different people (I’d like to especially thank eggyhustle, ihatecars, princelybug and kingofpain for all of their help! You guys are awesome!) and actually listening to different components, I have purchased the items below for some audio upgrades on my 06 Acura TL:
Image Dynamics CTX65CS components (front speakers)
Alpine PDX 4.100
JL 10w1v2, 4ohm, SVC subwoofer
Alpine MRP-M500 amplifier
I actually have the subwoofer and monoblock amplifier set up in the car right now, so I purchased a “Stinger SPD570 Car Audio Power and Ground Distribution Block” as well so I won’t have to run another set of power/ground lines. In wiring the subwoofer, I thought it was fairly simple having done it only for the second time in my life … now comes the problem though.
I understand that I can use the distribution block for the power and ground, which is great. However, what can I do with the RCAs in order to lead them to the second amplifier as well, designated for the speakers? Also, for the remote line, would I be able to simply t-tap it to the remote line that is already currently connected to my subwoofer amp?
As for wiring the speakers themselves, I think I understand what the crossovers are there for, but how do I go about wiring those? Also, if I want to power my rear stock speakers with my PDX amplifier as well, do I just tap some wires into the existing stock wires and hook them up to two of the channels of the amplifier (for left and right rear)?
I think those are all that I’m stuck on for the moment, so thank you in advance! Hopefully all this time, effort, sweat and money will all be worth it in the end!
04-07-2010, 08:06 AM
#2
Drifting
Where are the RCA's coming from for your sub amp? Are you using an aftermarket deck? LOC? What? That will determine how you wire those.
For the remote wire, you can daisy chain off the sub amp. Just run a wire from the sub amp's remote turn on to the 4 channel remote turn on. Since it's 2 amps, you should be fine. I'm about to run 3 amps and a crossover this way. I've been doing it with the crossover and 2 amps for awhile now and plan on adding the 3rd amp soon, and doing it the same way.
For the crossovers, they should have 3 connections, 1 labeled "Input" 1 labeled "woofer" and one labeled "tweeter". The "Input" gets speaker wire from the amp. The "woofer" gets speaker wire to the mid of the component set. The "Tweeter" gets speaker wire to the tweeter of the comp set.
I wouldn't mess with running the amp on stock speakers. You should really focus on your front stage, and maybe back doors. I haven't had rear speakers in my CL in over a year, and I'm not going back. If you really wanted to amp your rear speakers, I'd run all new speaker wire though. It'll keep things much safer in the end. Stock speaker wire is maybe 20ga, which won't handle current as well, and will heat up. This is bad for wire. It means more resistance, which means less power.
For the remote wire, you can daisy chain off the sub amp. Just run a wire from the sub amp's remote turn on to the 4 channel remote turn on. Since it's 2 amps, you should be fine. I'm about to run 3 amps and a crossover this way. I've been doing it with the crossover and 2 amps for awhile now and plan on adding the 3rd amp soon, and doing it the same way.
For the crossovers, they should have 3 connections, 1 labeled "Input" 1 labeled "woofer" and one labeled "tweeter". The "Input" gets speaker wire from the amp. The "woofer" gets speaker wire to the mid of the component set. The "Tweeter" gets speaker wire to the tweeter of the comp set.
I wouldn't mess with running the amp on stock speakers. You should really focus on your front stage, and maybe back doors. I haven't had rear speakers in my CL in over a year, and I'm not going back. If you really wanted to amp your rear speakers, I'd run all new speaker wire though. It'll keep things much safer in the end. Stock speaker wire is maybe 20ga, which won't handle current as well, and will heat up. This is bad for wire. It means more resistance, which means less power.
04-07-2010, 01:30 PM
#3
Awesome, first reply. Thanks for the response!
I am currently using a LOC ... would a multi-channel LOC to replace this be a possible solution? Also, thanks for the clarification regarding everything else. What gauge wiring do you suggest for the crossover/speakers???
Thanks in advance mattastick
I am currently using a LOC ... would a multi-channel LOC to replace this be a possible solution? Also, thanks for the clarification regarding everything else. What gauge wiring do you suggest for the crossover/speakers???
Thanks in advance mattastick
04-07-2010, 01:47 PM
#4
Drifting
Yes, you can get up to 4 channel loc's that I know of. You might be able to get a 6 channel, but I have no idea.
As for wiring, I believe that you can never use too small of wire. For example, a buddy of mine uses 4ga speaker wire for his subs, and I don't see a problem with it. His amp accepts it, so he might as well. Plus he's running over 5kws. That being said, I run 12ga speaker wire for all of my speakers, but I have rather long runs to them. 16 ga should be plenty for you.
As for wiring, I believe that you can never use too small of wire. For example, a buddy of mine uses 4ga speaker wire for his subs, and I don't see a problem with it. His amp accepts it, so he might as well. Plus he's running over 5kws. That being said, I run 12ga speaker wire for all of my speakers, but I have rather long runs to them. 16 ga should be plenty for you.
04-07-2010, 06:45 PM
#7
I'd only be running 200W rms bridged with the PDX though, while the mrp is rated at 300W rms
16awg it is! Thanks! Any particular loc's you would suggest?
^Any brand in particular you have in mind?
Thanks again guys!
Yes, you can get up to 4 channel loc's that I know of. You might be able to get a 6 channel, but I have no idea.
As for wiring, I believe that you can never use too small of wire. For example, a buddy of mine uses 4ga speaker wire for his subs, and I don't see a problem with it. His amp accepts it, so he might as well. Plus he's running over 5kws. That being said, I run 12ga speaker wire for all of my speakers, but I have rather long runs to them. 16 ga should be plenty for you.
As for wiring, I believe that you can never use too small of wire. For example, a buddy of mine uses 4ga speaker wire for his subs, and I don't see a problem with it. His amp accepts it, so he might as well. Plus he's running over 5kws. That being said, I run 12ga speaker wire for all of my speakers, but I have rather long runs to them. 16 ga should be plenty for you.
Thanks again guys!
Trending Topics
04-08-2010, 07:16 PM
#14
Drifting
The crossovers on the components will take care of crossing over the top end of the mids and the bottom of the tweeters. What you'll need is a filter to cut off the lower end of the mids, which you should be able to do on the amp. The top end cutoff on the subs with the amp as well.
10-27-2010, 10:59 PM
#16
So nearly half an year of lagging on my audio project due to family-related complications, graduation, work, etc. I have recently been trying to finish my set-up.
First of all, I currently have a set of ID CTX65CS components for the front doors (4ohm, 100W RMS), an Alpine PDX 4.100 to power all four door speakers (stock rear speakers), a JL 10w3v3 subwoofer (per some recommendations by AZ members), and an Alpine MRP-M500 monoblock amp to power the sub. I have the amps and sub mounted along with 4AWG power and ground connections split through a distribution block to the two amps. As for the components, I am waiting on some sound deadening material (edead45) from Elemental Designs as well as a couple of MDF rings to hold the speakers.
Just FYI, I actually PM'ed "king of pain" regarding these questions, but I just noticed that he hasn't been on the forums for a while, so I'm sure he's been busy.
Nonetheless, my question is regarding my RCA connections. I understand that I should just utilize a multi-channel line output converter (connected to the factory amp's output wires) for both amps, but I was just wondering if there was a particular multi-channel LOC that you guys would recommend.
Also, I've been reading about this concept of having "active fronts" with just "rear fill" in terms of adding aftermarket speakers ... would you guys also recommend that I rather bridge my ID components in the front doors to run a higher RMS?? I've been reading about this whole concept of "active fronts" and "rear fill" only, and supposedly according to another member, the ID's could use more than the rated 100W RMS power ... any thoughts???
I've been reading up on Alpine PDX's switch settings, and supposedly just bridging the amp also requires using a RCA y-splitter ... so confusing, especially for a noob like me @___@ (http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...4-100-a-2.html)
ANY HELP IS MUCH APPRECIATED!!!!
First of all, I currently have a set of ID CTX65CS components for the front doors (4ohm, 100W RMS), an Alpine PDX 4.100 to power all four door speakers (stock rear speakers), a JL 10w3v3 subwoofer (per some recommendations by AZ members), and an Alpine MRP-M500 monoblock amp to power the sub. I have the amps and sub mounted along with 4AWG power and ground connections split through a distribution block to the two amps. As for the components, I am waiting on some sound deadening material (edead45) from Elemental Designs as well as a couple of MDF rings to hold the speakers.
Just FYI, I actually PM'ed "king of pain" regarding these questions, but I just noticed that he hasn't been on the forums for a while, so I'm sure he's been busy.
Nonetheless, my question is regarding my RCA connections. I understand that I should just utilize a multi-channel line output converter (connected to the factory amp's output wires) for both amps, but I was just wondering if there was a particular multi-channel LOC that you guys would recommend.
Also, I've been reading about this concept of having "active fronts" with just "rear fill" in terms of adding aftermarket speakers ... would you guys also recommend that I rather bridge my ID components in the front doors to run a higher RMS?? I've been reading about this whole concept of "active fronts" and "rear fill" only, and supposedly according to another member, the ID's could use more than the rated 100W RMS power ... any thoughts???
I've been reading up on Alpine PDX's switch settings, and supposedly just bridging the amp also requires using a RCA y-splitter ... so confusing, especially for a noob like me @___@ (http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...4-100-a-2.html)
ANY HELP IS MUCH APPRECIATED!!!!
10-27-2010, 11:09 PM
#19
eggyhustles, I've actually been looking at the JL cleansweep too ... your opinion on that?? Again, I'd have to think about my funds first tho loll
Any other processors you would recommend (bang-for-the-buck preferably)???
PS: I know the favorites out there seem to be the JL cleansweep and RF 3sixty.2, which probably mean they're pretty damn effective/good ... but then again, not sure if the $400 price tag can be justified in my case lol (even IF I save up for it loll)
Any other processors you would recommend (bang-for-the-buck preferably)???
PS: I know the favorites out there seem to be the JL cleansweep and RF 3sixty.2, which probably mean they're pretty damn effective/good ... but then again, not sure if the $400 price tag can be justified in my case lol (even IF I save up for it loll)
Last edited by crzygosu87; 10-27-2010 at 11:14 PM.
10-27-2010, 11:29 PM
#21
Wait ... which one are you referring to? loll the JL cleansweep processor or that 4channel LOC? I'm assuming the loc lol
Thoughts on the JL cleansweep? I'll be doing some searches rite now ...
EDIT: Search yielded NUMEROUS threads about the JL cleansweep ... seems the unit doesn't allow the user to set EQ and crossover points while the RF 3sixty.2 does ... bummer ...
EDIT2: MTX req5 seems like another option that some members are using ...
Thoughts on the JL cleansweep? I'll be doing some searches rite now ...
EDIT: Search yielded NUMEROUS threads about the JL cleansweep ... seems the unit doesn't allow the user to set EQ and crossover points while the RF 3sixty.2 does ... bummer ...
EDIT2: MTX req5 seems like another option that some members are using ...
Last edited by crzygosu87; 10-27-2010 at 11:40 PM.
10-28-2010, 10:21 AM
#30
I'd rather sell you my 3sixty.2 so I can buy a JBL MS8 or Audison BitOne.
3sixty.2's are noisy sonofabitches. Throw in a PDX amp and a head unit that remains stock (did I catch that right?) and I think you are going to be in for a nasty surprise.
Active is the way to go. 3sixty.1 is not active in the same way.
If you do go with the RF processor, a laptop does best.
3sixty.2's are noisy sonofabitches. Throw in a PDX amp and a head unit that remains stock (did I catch that right?) and I think you are going to be in for a nasty surprise.
Active is the way to go. 3sixty.1 is not active in the same way.
If you do go with the RF processor, a laptop does best.
10-28-2010, 12:00 PM
#33
Well I've installed 4 3Sixty.2's that I can recall, and I own 2.
It needs a very hot signal but will clip if you go too hot. You also need amps that are very sensitive because even though it will push out a hot signal, the signal to noise is abysmal. So the incoming signal needs to be hot, and you need to turn down the output gains and thus crank the gains of the amps. It goes counter to the logic we know about setting gains correctly.
Best processor in the biz right now is the MS8. It ain't cheap, but it sets itself up, has 8 channels of capability, amplifiers built in per channel (20W for fill or whatnot), and binaural microphones on a headset to listen to the environment and adjust itself. $560 is the best price I've seen on it.
eDead.. well where to begin? Elemental has a bad past, but moving past that I have used their V1SE product and had to scrap an entire deadening project (meaning, peel it all off and start over) because the product really has no stick, and no damping properties. When dealing with deadening, there are many things to consider. You can learn a great deal about deadening materials at www.sounddeadenershowdown.com and buy there too if you want.
It needs a very hot signal but will clip if you go too hot. You also need amps that are very sensitive because even though it will push out a hot signal, the signal to noise is abysmal. So the incoming signal needs to be hot, and you need to turn down the output gains and thus crank the gains of the amps. It goes counter to the logic we know about setting gains correctly.
Best processor in the biz right now is the MS8. It ain't cheap, but it sets itself up, has 8 channels of capability, amplifiers built in per channel (20W for fill or whatnot), and binaural microphones on a headset to listen to the environment and adjust itself. $560 is the best price I've seen on it.
eDead.. well where to begin? Elemental has a bad past, but moving past that I have used their V1SE product and had to scrap an entire deadening project (meaning, peel it all off and start over) because the product really has no stick, and no damping properties. When dealing with deadening, there are many things to consider. You can learn a great deal about deadening materials at www.sounddeadenershowdown.com and buy there too if you want.
Last edited by fourthmeal; 10-28-2010 at 12:00 PM. Reason: grammar owns
10-28-2010, 12:14 PM
#34
Hrmmm ... very interesting ... I'll see what other 3sixty.2 users have to say about this noise concern as well. Thanks for the heads-up.
Yeah, I've been reading Mr. Skytech's installation of the JBL MS8 in his car ... seems like it's one of the top-of-the-line processors out there today ... including the Audison Bit1(?). Nonetheless, they're both out of my budget, and I don't think I'm enough of an audiophile to be able to warrant their price tags even in the future. Given the 3sixty's noise concern, would you recommend another processor that might sacrifice some adjustability (I honestly don't think I am enough of an audiophile to care for time alignment to match optimum settings for the driver's seat) for a decent price ... ? Eq and crossover capabilities is all I need I suppose(?)
I am still considering it, but I'm still open to other options as well.
Yeah, I've been reading Mr. Skytech's installation of the JBL MS8 in his car ... seems like it's one of the top-of-the-line processors out there today ... including the Audison Bit1(?). Nonetheless, they're both out of my budget, and I don't think I'm enough of an audiophile to be able to warrant their price tags even in the future. Given the 3sixty's noise concern, would you recommend another processor that might sacrifice some adjustability (I honestly don't think I am enough of an audiophile to care for time alignment to match optimum settings for the driver's seat) for a decent price ... ? Eq and crossover capabilities is all I need I suppose(?)
I am still considering it, but I'm still open to other options as well.
10-28-2010, 01:02 PM
#35
Drifting
Only noise i've encountered with the 3sixty is a slight hiss when the volume is at 0. Besides that, the unit has worked perfectly.
I actually prefer it over the ms8 since the ms8 doesn't let u manually tune. It also gives you a complete flat signal which is bad for us pro audio/spl oriented guys.
If i were you, i would get a processor that'll let you tinker with it... That way, you can learn the ropes instead of having the unit do the work for you.
I actually prefer it over the ms8 since the ms8 doesn't let u manually tune. It also gives you a complete flat signal which is bad for us pro audio/spl oriented guys.
If i were you, i would get a processor that'll let you tinker with it... That way, you can learn the ropes instead of having the unit do the work for you.
10-28-2010, 03:45 PM
#36
Only noise i've encountered with the 3sixty is a slight hiss when the volume is at 0. Besides that, the unit has worked perfectly.
I actually prefer it over the ms8 since the ms8 doesn't let u manually tune. It also gives you a complete flat signal which is bad for us pro audio/spl oriented guys.
If i were you, i would get a processor that'll let you tinker with it... That way, you can learn the ropes instead of having the unit do the work for you.
I actually prefer it over the ms8 since the ms8 doesn't let u manually tune. It also gives you a complete flat signal which is bad for us pro audio/spl oriented guys.
If i were you, i would get a processor that'll let you tinker with it... That way, you can learn the ropes instead of having the unit do the work for you.
MS8 allows manual tuning, and LOTS of it.. The Alpine unit works more the way you are describing FYI.
10-28-2010, 03:46 PM
#37
A couple www.minidsp.com boxes might be the cheapest way to do it.
10-28-2010, 04:37 PM
#39
Exactly, I thought that's what you are alluding to though. You have control over the EQ.
Well Andy Wehmeyer is one of the main brains behind the MS8, and the epic thread in DIYMA gets dirty with the unit. You own it, you have an advantage over me here.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...essor-172.html