Need help with audio installation
#1
Burning Brakes
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Need help with audio installation
hello guys. I tried searching but i couldnt find any answers. I tried asking for help in audio section and didnt get any reply. But my question is I have a JL 10w3v3 SUb and a JL 250/1 AMP and I want to hook it up on a stock deck. What materials would I need for this installation? I already have the ground wire only. I know i need high lo converter? What brands are good? What else would I need? Any help would be awesome. Thanks
#2
Just chillen..
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163661
You already posted in there, but thats the easiest way, dont be scared!
You already posted in there, but thats the easiest way, dont be scared!
#3
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by FL3.2TL
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163661
You already posted in there, but thats the easiest way, dont be scared!
You already posted in there, but thats the easiest way, dont be scared!
#4
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (4)
u dnt need a real thick gauge of wire to power 250 watts...get an 8guage amp kit and its not a hi lo converter its called a line out converter...ive had the one i bought from walmart for years and it has a massive gain on it...its pretty nice...its abotu the size of a cell phone and its blue the brand is scosche...ur amp may have one built in to it already, if so it will say high input
#5
Just chillen..
No, alright let me break it down for you: "
For the JL Amp, I would run the following: 4Gauge Power Wire, 4 Gauge Ground Wire, and 1 speaker wire for the REM
For the LOC: Line Output Converter, you will have a set of two wires = 4 wires. Choose two of those wire, I can careless which color you choose as long they both are the same color, one is postive, one is negative. 3 way splice the subwoofer stock wire, so you can add those wires in. 3 way splicing is, from the connector and the end of the sub ( in the middle somewhere just cut and run extended wires to the LOC ). Get it?
For your REM ( Remotre turn on wire ), you run it to the fuse box
For your power: Run it to the battery
For your ground: Find a bolt somewhere in the trunk, and bolt it down
For your RCA cables: One end of the LOC to the AMP ( meaning the RCA go from the LOC to the AMP )
For your subwoofer: Run speaker wire to the amp
The bass of your sub will hit at the same time as the factory sub hits. Thats why the LOC gets used in place.
Place of purchase: Walmart, Best Buy, Circuit City, its around $20, get any brand, doesn't matter. They all do the same thing.
Anything else?
For the JL Amp, I would run the following: 4Gauge Power Wire, 4 Gauge Ground Wire, and 1 speaker wire for the REM
For the LOC: Line Output Converter, you will have a set of two wires = 4 wires. Choose two of those wire, I can careless which color you choose as long they both are the same color, one is postive, one is negative. 3 way splice the subwoofer stock wire, so you can add those wires in. 3 way splicing is, from the connector and the end of the sub ( in the middle somewhere just cut and run extended wires to the LOC ). Get it?
For your REM ( Remotre turn on wire ), you run it to the fuse box
For your power: Run it to the battery
For your ground: Find a bolt somewhere in the trunk, and bolt it down
For your RCA cables: One end of the LOC to the AMP ( meaning the RCA go from the LOC to the AMP )
For your subwoofer: Run speaker wire to the amp
The bass of your sub will hit at the same time as the factory sub hits. Thats why the LOC gets used in place.
Place of purchase: Walmart, Best Buy, Circuit City, its around $20, get any brand, doesn't matter. They all do the same thing.
Anything else?
#6
Burning Brakes
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Thanks that helped alot ^
Well this is what I will purchase today.
-Stinger SWKH8 8 gauge amp kit.
Power Kit for Amplifiers up to 600 Watts
20 feet of 8 ga. HPM Blue Power Wire
3 feet of 8 ga. HPM Clear Ground Wire
1- Platinum Plated Water-proof AGU Fuse Holder
with 60 Amp AGU fuse
5 feet of Protective Wire Tubing
17 feet of 18 ga. Amplifier Remote Turn-on Wire
Full Assortment of Platinum Plated
Terminals and Hardware
-Scosche LOC80
-Stinger RCA 12' Bullet Series
Is this accurate? Is this what I only need to buy? Then I will bring it to a shop to install.
Well this is what I will purchase today.
-Stinger SWKH8 8 gauge amp kit.
Power Kit for Amplifiers up to 600 Watts
20 feet of 8 ga. HPM Blue Power Wire
3 feet of 8 ga. HPM Clear Ground Wire
1- Platinum Plated Water-proof AGU Fuse Holder
with 60 Amp AGU fuse
5 feet of Protective Wire Tubing
17 feet of 18 ga. Amplifier Remote Turn-on Wire
Full Assortment of Platinum Plated
Terminals and Hardware
-Scosche LOC80
-Stinger RCA 12' Bullet Series
Is this accurate? Is this what I only need to buy? Then I will bring it to a shop to install.
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#9
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You should really just get a new head unite with 3 sets of RCA outputs front rear and Sub, that are 4 volts.
Not sure about how much it will run you since i have been out of the car audio loop for a while now, But from my experience it is the most important part of the system it is what is producing the signal that your amp is going to amplify. Using those converters just adds noise to the system on top of that you are starting off with a not so good signal using the stock headunite.
Usually the first time you get a system all you want is a amp and sub i did the same thing and you probally will be happy with the setup for now. Once you add components and another amp you will definetly hear the noise through the tweeters.
Then you will upgrade the headunite and come to realize how they are the foundation of your audio system, and that will be the first thing you buy in your next system.
If you do want to get a new one let me know i dont mind searching around for a good one for a good price.
Anyway good luck.
Not sure about how much it will run you since i have been out of the car audio loop for a while now, But from my experience it is the most important part of the system it is what is producing the signal that your amp is going to amplify. Using those converters just adds noise to the system on top of that you are starting off with a not so good signal using the stock headunite.
Usually the first time you get a system all you want is a amp and sub i did the same thing and you probally will be happy with the setup for now. Once you add components and another amp you will definetly hear the noise through the tweeters.
Then you will upgrade the headunite and come to realize how they are the foundation of your audio system, and that will be the first thing you buy in your next system.
If you do want to get a new one let me know i dont mind searching around for a good one for a good price.
Anyway good luck.
#10
Burning Brakes
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i dont wanan go through all that trouble beacuse i have Navi. it will look ugly. i just wanna have a clean look. I know i will be satisfied with this setup because I am not looking for anything strong. just something alil more noticeable than the stock unit in my car right now. I need help buy a RCA. What brand is good and how long would i need it for a TL?
#11
Burning Brakes
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Will this be good enough for my TL? The brand is Tsunami 8 gauge amp kit. I will be also purchasing the LOC.
Includes:
* 20' RCA Gold Patch Cord
* 20' 8 Gauge RED POWER CABLE
* 2' 8 Gauge BLACK GROUND CABLE
* 16' 18 Gauge BLUE REMOTE TURN-ON WIRE
* 16' 18 Gauge BLACK GROUND WIRE
* Maxi Fuseholder with 50 Amp Fuse
* 6' 1/4” Split Loom TUBING
* PUSH-IN GROMMET
* HARDWARE:
* (2) 8 GAUGE 5/16” RING TERMINALS
* WITH BLUE & WHITE SLEEVES
* (2) 4” BLACK WIRE TIES
* (2) RED VINYL BUTT CONNECTORS
* (2) RED VINYL #10 SPADE CONNECTORS
* (4) 8 X 3/4” PAN HEAD PHILLIPS SCREWS
* 10 4” BLACK WIRE TIES
Will this sound good on my car?
Includes:
* 20' RCA Gold Patch Cord
* 20' 8 Gauge RED POWER CABLE
* 2' 8 Gauge BLACK GROUND CABLE
* 16' 18 Gauge BLUE REMOTE TURN-ON WIRE
* 16' 18 Gauge BLACK GROUND WIRE
* Maxi Fuseholder with 50 Amp Fuse
* 6' 1/4” Split Loom TUBING
* PUSH-IN GROMMET
* HARDWARE:
* (2) 8 GAUGE 5/16” RING TERMINALS
* WITH BLUE & WHITE SLEEVES
* (2) 4” BLACK WIRE TIES
* (2) RED VINYL BUTT CONNECTORS
* (2) RED VINYL #10 SPADE CONNECTORS
* (4) 8 X 3/4” PAN HEAD PHILLIPS SCREWS
* 10 4” BLACK WIRE TIES
Will this sound good on my car?
#14
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (4)
Yea thats 8 gauge. 8 gauge is good for teh amount of wattage u are pushin...now if u plan to add other amps in the future...u should get 4 gauge so that u can tap a distrubution block to it & make 8 gauge wires run from the block to watever amps u have...alos a headunit would make a world of diff with the sound of everythng...but they are pricey
#15
Prick of the month
Have you checked the 2nd gen TL section here?
https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/%2A%2Aaudio-video-diy-info-faq-all-models-%2A%2A-299065/
https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/%2A%2Aaudio-video-diy-info-faq-all-models-%2A%2A-299065/
#16
night ridah
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Originally Posted by friskoplayer
hello guys. I tried searching but i couldnt find any answers. I tried asking for help in audio section and didnt get any reply. But my question is I have a JL 10w3v3 SUb and a JL 250/1 AMP and I want to hook it up on a stock deck. What materials would I need for this installation? I already have the ground wire only. I know i need high lo converter? What brands are good? What else would I need? Any help would be awesome. Thanks
#19
2008 NBP TL
Originally Posted by FL3.2TL
No, alright let me break it down for you: "
For the JL Amp, I would run the following: 4Gauge Power Wire, 4 Gauge Ground Wire, and 1 speaker wire for the REM
For the LOC: Line Output Converter, you will have a set of two wires = 4 wires. Choose two of those wire, I can careless which color you choose as long they both are the same color, one is postive, one is negative. 3 way splice the subwoofer stock wire, so you can add those wires in. 3 way splicing is, from the connector and the end of the sub ( in the middle somewhere just cut and run extended wires to the LOC ). Get it?
For your REM ( Remotre turn on wire ), you run it to the fuse box
For your power: Run it to the battery
For your ground: Find a bolt somewhere in the trunk, and bolt it down
For your RCA cables: One end of the LOC to the AMP ( meaning the RCA go from the LOC to the AMP )
For your subwoofer: Run speaker wire to the amp
The bass of your sub will hit at the same time as the factory sub hits. Thats why the LOC gets used in place.
Place of purchase: Walmart, Best Buy, Circuit City, its around $20, get any brand, doesn't matter. They all do the same thing.
Anything else?
For the JL Amp, I would run the following: 4Gauge Power Wire, 4 Gauge Ground Wire, and 1 speaker wire for the REM
For the LOC: Line Output Converter, you will have a set of two wires = 4 wires. Choose two of those wire, I can careless which color you choose as long they both are the same color, one is postive, one is negative. 3 way splice the subwoofer stock wire, so you can add those wires in. 3 way splicing is, from the connector and the end of the sub ( in the middle somewhere just cut and run extended wires to the LOC ). Get it?
For your REM ( Remotre turn on wire ), you run it to the fuse box
For your power: Run it to the battery
For your ground: Find a bolt somewhere in the trunk, and bolt it down
For your RCA cables: One end of the LOC to the AMP ( meaning the RCA go from the LOC to the AMP )
For your subwoofer: Run speaker wire to the amp
The bass of your sub will hit at the same time as the factory sub hits. Thats why the LOC gets used in place.
Place of purchase: Walmart, Best Buy, Circuit City, its around $20, get any brand, doesn't matter. They all do the same thing.
Anything else?
#20
night ridah
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Brampton Ontario Canada
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if you want to hook it up to a stock deck, you will need a line inverter, this basicly takes a feed from one of your speakers, and supplies two new feeds, 1 for the speaker you just disconnected and another to the amp. with your car model and year , and the fact that its a sub you want to install, the easiest one to take the feed from would be from the factory subwoofer in the back. best buy, and future shop could help you with that. jus ask for a "line inverter", any brands good, prices from $15- $60. i would recomend getting a cap, and a 4 guage wire kit as well.
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