hemoglobin23

Audio gurus, please help me out...I want to add a sub to my stock system, but have no clue how to approach this...A shop I went to said I would need to buy a new head unit to accomplish this upgrade, but from reading some threads on the board...there is no need...

I know, I know...there are tons of threads here pertaining to this topic, but I find that they are vague and not specific...I guess I want this issue settled once and for all...

Here is my plan:

Keep everything stock, but simply add 1 12" JL W3 (and amp to power it).

I am concerned with distortion, and sound clarity...How would I get the best sound from stock speakers, while adding the sub at the same time? How would I wire this puppy? What extra parts do I need?

It would be AWESOME if you guys could provide step-by-step instructions on this task...

Hope someone kind enough would help a fellow TLer out...THANX in advance...

Brewboy

Remove rear seat for access to stock amp. Unplug wiring harness to stock amp. Remove stock amp (optional) and stock sub(best practice) - leave wiring harnesses in place. The wiring harness that you unplugged from your stock amp contains an orange wire - this is your remote power turn-on for your new amp, so splice into it and extend it to your new amp. Run new fused power cable from battery to your new amp. Ground new amp to body. Inside the same wiring harness to your stock amp there is a twisted pair wrapped in a puke brown shield, splice into the two wires inside the brown shield with some 22 gauge twisted pair(long enough to reach your new amp) and solder (1) RCA connector to the other end. (Polarity doesn't matter) This RCA is your mono input to your new amp. Connect new amp to new sub and have fun.

Brewboy

Ah shucks hemo

[/B][/QUOTE]
do u think I would notice any sound degradation from this setup? Will I get better sound by changing the head unit? [/B][/QUOTE]

No sound degradation but by using the sub preamp output you will have some volume attenuation after about 3/4 volume on the HU due to the Bose EQ. Not a problem, just set your gains appropriately.

Unless you have a very revealing speakers and amps (if they're still stock then you don't), you won't get a better sound by changing the HU. For better sound, you should upgrade the door speaks and amp before the HU.

[/B][/QUOTE]
THANK YOU SO MUCH... [/B][/QUOTE]
Your welcome

Brewboy

Congrats Hemo. Glad I could help. It should take you a couple of weeks to tune the system in. There are a number of variables to work with but only change one at a time. Hopefully you removed stock sub. Can vary the sub firing angle, most ppl here fire towards the rear. First, get your gain adjusted to where you want it, then you can slowly raise/lower your xovers to suit your music style.
I would say to start at about 85Hz and adjust accordingly using the same music/album/tracks you are familiar with every couple of days. Don't worry too much about it if you are going to upgrade your fronts soon because you will have to re-tune it all over again. I think the funnest(sp?) part is tuning it in. Have fun!

hemoglobin23

brew...thanks again for the help...However, I have one question....
what is the pros/cons of removing the stock sub...the stock sub is currently still working in my setup...Do you think that the stock sub hinders the overall performance of the new sub?

thanx

Brewboy

I am assuming the whole idea of installing a new sub was because the stock sounded muddy and maybe not loud enough. So now you running you new sub with good beats but you still have that muddy sounding stock sub still playing and probably doesn't keep up with your new sub. I would definetly remove it! It will also open up an 8" hole in your rear deck to act as a quasi port for your new sub. You can also add dynamat to your rear deck and trunk lid then stuff polyfill between the rear deck/lid and rear deck/lid covering or at least just the polyfill for sure, about $2/lb at a fabric store(only need a couple of lbs). This is all part of the tuning process. Do what sounds right to you.

cschaul

I have the new amp hooked up, but cant figure out how to get to the battery from inside the car for the amp power cable. I see u guys were suiccessful in it, how did u get it through to the battery? I ran my amp power cable up the passenger side of the '02 tl. Any advice would be much appreciated!!!


chris

Brewboy

There is a grommet with a wire bundle way up above the emergency brake pedal. It comes out down behind the strut housing in the engine bay. It's a beetch but can be done. You have to make a new hole in the grommet on the engine bay side(very carefully to not cut other wires). Push your finger thru it from the cabin side and gently guide a coat hangar with a small looped end to not cut any wires. Once thru, pull it back with a strong piece of pulling string. Then use the string to pull in your new power cable. Also can use some liquid dish soap for a pulling lubricant.

hemoglobin23

egg...

Everything is OEM except for the sub and amp that powers the sub....It sounds WAY better than I had expected...Although I am sure that it would sound better if I had changed out everything...

Brew is to thank for my audio experience, and I suggest you follow his suggestions contributed to this thread...I followed all his suggestions, and it worked out extremely well...I have to say that on a scale of 1 to 10 my audio experience is a 10.5. I only wished I had a different enclosure for the sub, and a more powerful amp...HOWEVER...I am definitely not complaining since I have some bumps now that sounds great for a starter system...Only spent $330 for the setup.

Trust Brew is my advice, and things will work out...

Hope this thread has helped some people on a budget, and want some loud sounds in their cars.

BTW, I was tweaking the sub/amp settings in my underground garage, and the manager (who is a cool guy) came down, and asked if that thumping was my car...I honestly did not think the sounds would travel up two floors from the garage, but it did...He said he was trying to take a nap, but the "rumble" kept waking him up...


Sorry this turned out to be so long...

Brewboy

You do not need a LOC. Tap into the two wires in the sheath with another twisted pair cable long enough to reach your amp. On the other end of your new cable, solder (1) RCA connector to it. Polarity does not matter- 1 wire to pin, the other to shield. Assuming your amp is bridgeable and having read manual for mono operation, for most amps you connect RCA to your amp's left input and your sub to the outer most speaker outputs, usually L+ and R-. Make sure you amp's switches and such are set for mono/bridged operation and your sub are wired correctly(ohm wise) to match your amps specs.

xjp122x

Just wondering, does leaving the stock sub hooked in with the new setup add a significant amount of bass? I was thinking about doing the same thing when I get my eclipse aluminum sub.

neuronbob

Thanks for this thread, just found it. I am looking to add some bass, in the form of a subwoofer. The bass on the basic Bose system is just not enough even to enjoy Holst's "Mars", or George Duke (both with VERY wide range of frequency, including lots of bass).

Sounds like it's not very expensive, either! I don't want to replace the stock system, just make it sound better.

Austin519

Just to interject my 2 cents here:

hemoglobin23:
"I have one JL12W3 in a sealed box, and bot does that thing hit!!! I followed Brewboy's instructions, and it worked out AWESOMELY!!!!! I have a Rockford Fosgate 250a2 with the sub, and it works wonders"

I have run two JL 12w3's as well...off of an RF 800a4 bridged to 2 ohms. You have a pretty badly underpowered sub my friend. Yeah I'm sure you're thinking "nuh uh...the site says 250W continuous". First off that's continous rating, second JL underrates their stuff, and third you're not (or shouldn't be) running the amp at full capacity...only 75%...so you're probably getting only 240 watts out of it bridged since RF's amps are always more than the tag says. With that in mind, you ideally are looking to throw 250*sqrrt(2) of wattage at the sub, which translates to 353 W. Using an RF H400a2 would give that to you, running at 75% (best scenario)...so not to rain on your parade...but that's my first suggestion. By the way...I get 400a2's...at least the old series model which I prefer...at $150 (assuming my guy has some left). I get the 12 w3's at $110....

Second suggestion...ditch the sealed box. Go with a bandpass reflex, or ported reflex box (second choice). The w3's do absolutely phenomenal under both conditions, and there is a noticeable difference between those and sealed. But beware, the bandpass must be tuned precisely, so unless you get a professional to build it correctly, get a ported box, or build a ported box.

As for upgrading your components, and this goes for all the guys here who asked that Q, after testing the staging today with my new components...I would have to say that the JL XR650CX...6.5" coaxials are a GREAT component upgrade...and pretty much drop ins. That'd go great with your JL 12w3 too...and they only cost $200 shipped from where I get them for a pair. Just realize that if your bass in the back is hitting too hard, then you're gonna be severly lacking in midbass to make up for that...and you may want to install some small subs, such as the JL 8" free air's, crossed at a higher frequency, to make up for it.

A tweaking idea I am going to implement...time delay. By adding a time delay unit inline with your signal, you create the impression of your car being larger and sounding...how do I explain this, fuller than it really is.

The Bose HU is okay...although you will find a good many better HU's out there...plus you can get rid of the satanic Bose EQ that they used to make up for frequency holes in their speaker setup.


Jav:
See above for my component suggestions...as for a good 10" or 12" sub...get a JL 10w3 or 12w3...or an Infinity 10 or 12 perfect...or if you have the cash...get what I have...JL 12 w7 .

xjp122x:
"Just wondering, does leaving the stock sub hooked in with the new setup add a significant amount of bass? I was thinking about doing the same thing when I get my eclipse aluminum sub."

Running an eclipse, trust me when I say you won't even hear the stock sub.

Austin519

blu_rain3

I followed the same instructions from the listing from brewboy, hooking up my remote wire to the orange wire near the stock amp as well as opened the puke brown wire to find two wires which I was to splice into with some 22 guage wire and run to my rca's. I did all of that and as the quoted my amplifier clearly turns on and has power but no sound! I've read and re-read almost all of the posts about making this work and can't seem to find any help. If you have any ideas, opinions. anything, please help. I have two MTX 12' subs in a ported box with the new mono Sony 1100 watt amplifier.

blu_rain3

I followed your instructions for the install and my Sony Xplod Mono 1100 watt amplifier clearly has power but is giving no sound. My remote wire is hooked to the orange wire and I opened the brown wire to connect my rca wires to those. Now the only thing I can see that I have not done is the whole solder thing? Would this be an issue? I bought some 20 guage wire and used that to splice into the two wires that were in the puke brown shield. From their I ran that wire to the rca's which I cut in half, and spliced the end of that 20 guage wire into the ends of the rca. Still no sound! If you can think of something I missed or anything please help. It's the second time I've taken apart my backseats in a week and I don't want to go for 3 if I don't have to. Please Help!

JDacTL

i was just reading this too. i am planning on installing my amp and subs soon. idk whether im gonna pay to get it done or do it myself. while i have installd systems before. never off of a stock HU. so i ahve 1 question for brewboy? or ne1 else that knos the answer. with my power kit i have a rca cable. (because i had aftermarket HU in my previous cars). can i cut 1 end of them off n splice them to the wires in the puke brown wrap? i did not quite understand your description of that. if you could explain a little better for me that would b great thanks.

special e. dition

I used BrewBoys technique to pull the power wire through the FW. Great! Now I need to know if I can do what JDac is suggesting above! Any answers A/V Gurus?

j.weems

This is the method I used when correcting my sub/amp install last week, but does anybody else get interference that matches the engine revs when splicing into the audio signal going to the Bose amp? My signal from here also pops very loud when I turn off the car or turn on/off the HU or change sources. I set my LPF to match what was coming out of the Bose EQ and the x-over sounds good, I just can't get rid of some of the pops and interference below 250Hz . . .

Should I use a transformer, like a DI box to eliminate the noise, or do I have a grounding issue?

Scratchin' my head here . . . .
Thanks

Mr3lite

if you have an 07 type s then you must disconnect the rear ANC.. located in the rear dome lights..

this only pertains to 2007 ACURA TL TYPE S OWNERS

Mr3lite

this will eliminate all"extra" hissing, whinning, thumping etc...

eggyhustles

holy thread bump

on1wheel01

yea what i was thinkin

ATLTL33

Thanks dude. This helped so much.

rescuewindow13

Would this powered sub work in my '00 TL? If so, would it be hard to install and set up etc? Thanks!

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R250...10.html?tp=114

eggyhustles

Would it work? sure..

would it sound good? no.

fourthmeal

I don't think it would sound awful, RF has been on a huge turnaround lately and this might be a decent product. However, if you give yourself a budget of $300-400 and build your own box (or hire a pro), you'll get better performance.

rescuewindow13

i like the fact that its a powered sub so i dont have to worry about amps matching speakers and wiring all that crap... i guess simplicity is what im looking for and thats why i picked that one.. would it be better with 12" speakers or should i look for an entirely new setup? Thanks for your help! audio is not my thing

temka101

I have a pair of kickers and I was planning on doing the same thing in my CL-S, and I just had one question to add on. Would you be able to control the subs through the stock stereo? Because some songs have crazy bass and I would just like to turn them down a bit. I'm new here so any help would be greatly appreciated

Acurastunna

Does any one have the diagram to hook up my after market unit to the steerining wheel audio control?

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

Stunna to be able to use steering wheel controls with an aftermarket headunit you need to order an adapter from crutchfield or the likes then it's pretty easy to install. Everyone asking about keeping the stock sub in place when adding aftermarket sub/s consider this: make it a mid bass speaker. If you already have an aftermarket headunit and wires ran to the back it's not a hard thing to do then you will have stronger mids which is nice. One last thing that you could do is replace it with an aftermarket 8" sub. The factory sub is 9" and is 2ohms just for a heads up. The factory amp is 100w but that's at 2ohms so it will only give u 50w at 4ohms. The only 8" sub I found shallow enough to fit is made by Pioneer. It's TS-SW8. Right now that's what I did. W the factory amp it's just a bit louder and deeper than stock. I ordered a small amp that should fit behind the seat and out of sight. I'm hoping this will be enough I avoid getting a bigger sub w box. I'd like to avoid this if possible because too many thieves in this city. I don't want any extra attention.

Sener

Thanks so much for this post. Got the stock amp working with a aftermarket radio & sounds alot better now then before! didn't want a box taking up space in my trunk which i use often. ^_^

03TLNewDriverJDMStyle

I have 2 orange wires and I can't seem to find a puke brown twisted wire! Please help pm me if possible