Hey Iggy... I just found some awesome scans you made of some pages in you shop manual.. I was wondering if you had any pages that show how to get the door panels off...

I know I could od it on my own by trial and error.. but I'd prefer if I could take my baby apart w.o any damage whatsoever!! Your manual seems to be the answer!!

I would really appreaciate if if yuo could upload them...

P.S. What did you do with the cut wires on the EQ side of the harness when you did the bypass?

Thanks in advance!

MAtt

 

hey Matt,
there is a TL FAQ that shows you how to take apart your door panel. Click on Forums faq (on your left side there) and scroll down to how to take apart door panel. Can't go wrong with pictures

 

TL-S nut,
On the EQ side of the cut wires...

1. Tie the left EQ input to the left EQ output

2. Tie the right EQ input to the left EQ output

3. Tie the two common wires together.

NOTHING ends up tied to actual chassis ground during the EQ bypass...

The inputs and outputs are balanced and floating from hard ground. A lot of trial and error was done, to come up with the above configuration. This method keeps the "sub" amp inputs behaving correctly, and keeps the left and right signals from picking up engine noise/whine/thumps, etc.

BE PREPARED TO LOSE AROUND 12DB OF SIGNAL AFTER DOING THIS BYPASS! The sound will be much flatter and correctly equalized for good speakers WITH tweeters... However, the volume will drop. If you are adding an aftermarket amp, this will be no problem, as you will have sufficient voltage gain to make up for the signal loss. If you are keeping the stock HU/AMP, then you might not be able to turn things up as loud as you would like. I performed the bypass in my TLS WITH THE STOCK headunit amp... I ended up un-doing the bypass because of the loss of volume.

Others have tied the cut wires together in different ways, but this was the only way that Iggy and I could both agree made the sub amp behave correctly, and produce no weird engine/electrical noise problems. It does seem to knock the volume down a bit more than some other methods, though?

Good luck!
Southbound

 

Just to make sure that I was clear about the EQ bypass wires...

You will cut 6 wires to perform the bypass...

1. Left Headunit out to EQ in (WHT)
2. Right Headunit out to EQ in (RED)
3. Left/Right Headunit out "common" wire between units (BLK)

4. Left EQ out to Headunit in (ORN)
5. Right EQ out to Headunit in (BLU/GRN)
6. Left/Right EQ out "common" wire between units (ORN/BLU)

Connect them the same way on BOTH sides of the cuts.

FROM THE "BLACK" HEADUNIT CONNECTOR, You will end up with 6 bypass jumper connections... 3 on the Headunit side, and 3 on the EQ side.

HEADUNIT SIDE
Left Headunit OUT (WHT) to Left Headunit IN (ORN)-(originally fed back from the EQ)

Right Headunit OUT (RED) to Right Headunit IN (BLU/GRN)-(originally fed back from the EQ)

Left/Right Headunit "commons" tied together (BLK to ORN/BLU)

EQ SIDE
Left EQ OUT (ORN)to Left EQ IN (WHT)
Right EQ OUT (BLU/GRN) to Right EQ IN (RED)
Left/Right "commons" tied together (ORN/BLU to BLK)

Hope this is now clear... if not, you shouldn't be trying the mod... You don't want to smoke anything in the process. Be sure to insulate all of these jumpers REALLY well.

Good Luck!
Southbound

 

I saw that section in the FAQ.. but the pictures arent that great

 

Errrr...okay...there are two screws you have to remove...one in the door opener and one under the arm rest. Take them out using regular philip screw driver. Grab the bottom portion of the panel and pull it out..work your way to the top then lift the panel straight up...partially take out the door panel and disconnect all plugs...take the door panel out..that's it.

 

Cool.. that's all I needed to know... wasn't sure how the fasteners held the panel in... just didn't want to break one of them.

Matt

 

There is ONE more step that you must take in order NOT to break anything...

The Door opening handle assembly must be taken off BEFORE the door panel is COMPLETELY removed.

Take the two screws out, then start removing the bottom of the door panel. There are only snaps that hold the bottom and sides of the door panel on. These snaps are fairly indestructable. You don't really have to be too careful about pulling on the edges of the door panel.

Once you have the bottom half loose, you can lay on the ground and look up and use your arm to reach up and disconnect all of the electrical connectors. Just remember that they all have some sort of strain relief locking tab involved.

Before pulling the top of the panel off of the top lip of the door frame, you must first take apart the door handle assy. Slide it either forward or backwards (I can't remember which way right now) and then it will pull out from the door frame, that it is hooked into. Once you have the assy loose from the door frame you can disconnect the electrical connector for the door locks, and you must disconnect the mechanical linkage that actually connects to the door latch. This linkage, is a 1/8inch round metal rod that is inserted into a hole on the back of the door handle assy. It may take some needle nose pliers to reach it well... There is a swivel snap locking clip that keeps the rod seated in the assy. Simply rotate the snap around away from the rod, and then lift the rod out of its hole. The door handle assy. will now come out in your hand. After it is removed you can now lift the door panel up and off of the top lip of the door frame.

A quick tip that I learned the hard way... PUT SOME PROTECTIVE TAPE ON THE SAIL PANEL AND THE WINDOW SILL NEXT TO THE DOOR LOCK! You must "wrestle" the door panel off and back on the top of the door frame, and it is REAL EASY to scratch the sail panel, etc. while doing this. The chrome strip has sharp edges and I scuffed up my first sail panel If you protect the areas with some tape before removal you can save yourself that trauma. Once back in place, remove the tape and you're ready to ROCK!

Good luck!
Southbound

 

TL-S Nut,

You may have allready pulled it all apart by now, but in addition to Southy's usual explicit directions I would add that it is easier to get the panel off when the window is down all the way.

Cheers,
Iggy

 

I agree with everything else that has been said. I would also add that if you want to work on the speakers, the windows need to be up. And for you to be able to put the windows up, that door's windows switch must be plugged in. I usually run the windows all the way down, take the door panel off, and then put the windows back up before removing all of the connectors.

David

 

Excellent point,
Definately a good idea to lower window first, get the panel out of the chanel, raise the window and THEN diconnect wiring. Install panel in reverse of the above.

Iggy