Lowering Gain on specific speakers
Lowering Gain on specific speakers
Can I wire a power resistor in series with a speaker to permanently lower its gain? I want to set my fade to neutral so my rear 6x9s will play at full volume but I don't want my rear speakers pulling the soundstage back. How would I calculate the db to ohm relationship?
Originally Posted by tinter
Can I wire a power resistor in series with a speaker to permanently lower its gain? I want to set my fade to neutral so my rear 6x9s will play at full volume but I don't want my rear speakers pulling the soundstage back. How would I calculate the db to ohm relationship?
The door speaker is around 4 ohms. Add 4 ohms for -3dB. For -6dB, I'd use 12 ohms in series.
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/ind...25043&pid=1243
and
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/ind...25043&pid=1251
Is this system stock?
Originally Posted by tinter
thanks,
no its with your speaker kit.
Is 15w rating enough? I thought the oem amp was putting out around 20w a channel?
no its with your speaker kit.

Is 15w rating enough? I thought the oem amp was putting out around 20w a channel?
Sounds a whole lot better than the oem. The only issue I have is with the tweets being way too bright but I have less than an hour on them, I'm guessing they'll soften with more use.
The 6x9s are amazingly clean if only I could lower the volume on the rear door speakers. I don't think -6db is enough though. I was thinking -9db or even as low as -12db. I'll try the 20 or 25ohm resistors and see what kind of difference they make. I may just end up disconnecting them but for 65 cents a resistor I will try it out and see.
The 6x9s are amazingly clean if only I could lower the volume on the rear door speakers. I don't think -6db is enough though. I was thinking -9db or even as low as -12db. I'll try the 20 or 25ohm resistors and see what kind of difference they make. I may just end up disconnecting them but for 65 cents a resistor I will try it out and see.
^^
FYI, my tweeters were bright to begin with but it turned out that the series caps for the xovers were for the CL and not the TSX. Once the TSX ones were used then the system sounded much better to my ears.
FYI, my tweeters were bright to begin with but it turned out that the series caps for the xovers were for the CL and not the TSX. Once the TSX ones were used then the system sounded much better to my ears.
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I think the tweeters were changed. There's no longer a capacitor. I'm not sure if bright is the correct word for it. It's more like when you hear voices you can hear the "air" sound quite noticeably. "ssssssh" sounds are more noticeable than I would like them to be but maybe that's normal?
Originally Posted by tinter
I think the tweeters were changed. There's no longer a capacitor. I'm not sure if bright is the correct word for it. It's more like when you hear voices you can hear the "air" sound quite noticeably. "ssssssh" sounds are more noticeable than I would like them to be but maybe that's normal?
I kind of know what you mean. When my car is stationary my system sounds fine (maybe still just a tad bright). But, when moving, the road noise tends to mask the lower frequencies and so I'm left with hearing more of the highs unless I turn up the volume. Also, I still have the OEM speakers in the rear doors so I'm not sure how the sound from those interacts with the rest of the Avincar system.
Originally Posted by jlukja
Can you recall if it sounds the same as my system when you heard it?
I kind of know what you mean. When my car is stationary my system sounds fine (maybe still just a tad bright). But, when moving, the road noise tends to mask the lower frequencies and so I'm left with hearing more of the highs unless I turn up the volume. Also, I still have the OEM speakers in the rear doors so I'm not sure how the sound from those interacts with the rest of the Avincar system.
I kind of know what you mean. When my car is stationary my system sounds fine (maybe still just a tad bright). But, when moving, the road noise tends to mask the lower frequencies and so I'm left with hearing more of the highs unless I turn up the volume. Also, I still have the OEM speakers in the rear doors so I'm not sure how the sound from those interacts with the rest of the Avincar system.
I think it should be fine after it breaks in though.
Originally Posted by elduderino
Great, thanks!
The speakers do need some break-in time. Even more than a couple of hours!
As much of an improvement as it is over stock, I can't help but want to tweek my system, just to see if I can make any improvements. I've been living with these speakers for several months, and definitely appreciate the improvement.
When I measured recently (with my test CD and sound level meter), it seems to me that the tweeters are pretty bright. Perhaps Elduderino has some ideas on what else can be done, since a series resistor is out of the question? (Either that, or maybe I need to re-enable my rear door midranges.
)
I'm really happy with the performance of the 6x9s. It's not quite sub-replacement, but pretty close.
As much of an improvement as it is over stock, I can't help but want to tweek my system, just to see if I can make any improvements. I've been living with these speakers for several months, and definitely appreciate the improvement.
When I measured recently (with my test CD and sound level meter), it seems to me that the tweeters are pretty bright. Perhaps Elduderino has some ideas on what else can be done, since a series resistor is out of the question? (Either that, or maybe I need to re-enable my rear door midranges.
)I'm really happy with the performance of the 6x9s. It's not quite sub-replacement, but pretty close.
Alrite I disconnected the rears, set the treble to -3, the bass to -3, and fade to -3 and now it sounds amazing! I get a nice band pass to my doors with this setup so now I can play it extremely loud with almost no distortion at all. I have to say it again, sounds amazing!
OK... If you decide you want to knock the highs down, a 4 ohm Lpad would be my suggestion.
But remember, this system isn't intended for loud - it's intended for good. Loud is a bonus, but if it doesn't sound perfect loud, that's not its intention. FOr loud, we recommend you do an amp upgrade.
But remember, this system isn't intended for loud - it's intended for good. Loud is a bonus, but if it doesn't sound perfect loud, that's not its intention. FOr loud, we recommend you do an amp upgrade.
It gets loud enough for me most of the time. I could see where someone might want some lower, harder-hitting bass from a sub, but I think the vast majority of people would be stoked with this upgrade. I think I practically sold a couple of sets just demoing to the local TSX crew.
(Well, they seemed impressed!) I came from having a sub, and I know it's not the same level of bass, but I'm pretty satisfied with it anyway.
As for the highs, I love the clarity of the tweeters, but maybe I'll try some l-pads. Thanks for the ideas!
(Well, they seemed impressed!) I came from having a sub, and I know it's not the same level of bass, but I'm pretty satisfied with it anyway. As for the highs, I love the clarity of the tweeters, but maybe I'll try some l-pads. Thanks for the ideas!
I figured I might as well resurrect this old thread... After putting this project aside for a while, I recently started researching l-pads a bit more, as I still wanted to dampen the tweeters somewhat. I didn't like most of what I was finding, until I saw that you can make a non-adjustable l-pad with a couple of resistors!
This website has some more info. and a calculator: http://www.lalena.com/Audio/Calculator/LPad/
I played around with values, and came up with 1ohm and 12ohm resistors for a 2.5db drop. 3db would have been my limit, so this was close enough.
Listening to a few songs, the soundstage is still high enough, I think, and there is still plenty of sound coming out of those tweeters. But, it's a bit more controlled and not as harsh; I think I'm going to like this mod. I feel like I can hear the voices more clearly; with less treble it's also kind of like increasing the bass and midrange. So, I guess there's some danger you can throw things off somewhat, but so far, I think it's working out well. I think it's much closer to the balance I was looking for.
This website has some more info. and a calculator: http://www.lalena.com/Audio/Calculator/LPad/
I played around with values, and came up with 1ohm and 12ohm resistors for a 2.5db drop. 3db would have been my limit, so this was close enough.
Listening to a few songs, the soundstage is still high enough, I think, and there is still plenty of sound coming out of those tweeters. But, it's a bit more controlled and not as harsh; I think I'm going to like this mod. I feel like I can hear the voices more clearly; with less treble it's also kind of like increasing the bass and midrange. So, I guess there's some danger you can throw things off somewhat, but so far, I think it's working out well. I think it's much closer to the balance I was looking for.
I did a quick test with my test CD, and the tweets are still bright relative to the rest of the system, so I think I could have gone even further with the sound reduction. Oh well, I think I'll listen to it as-is for a while, since it sounds good.
Originally Posted by tinter
Can I wire a power resistor in series with a speaker to permanently lower its gain? I want to set my fade to neutral so my rear 6x9s will play at full volume but I don't want my rear speakers pulling the soundstage back. How would I calculate the db to ohm relationship?
fixing a resistor inline with the speaker wire to your 6x9's to lower "gain" (which isn't correct, it's Voltage) will usually have adverse affects on sound quality. just fade and forget.
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