Instructions for install shop on preamp output
u can say that again... 
04-30-2006 | 03:20 PM
#162
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 55
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I finished installing today. Sounds great. ZERO problems, ZERO noise ...nothing. But the guy at alpine did say the PXA-H701 should handle the preamp just fine.
I'm more than happy with the sound coming out of the factory radio ....actually it sounds incredible.
I'm more than happy with the sound coming out of the factory radio ....actually it sounds incredible.
09-16-2006 | 05:24 PM
#163
10th Gear
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Sorry for bringing up an old post, but can somebody post or send me a picture of how they connected the 1Male to 2 Femail RCA cable to the HU pre-amps?
I know which wires to tap to, but I'm confused as to how to strip/cut the RCA cable. Basically, I don't understand this part of the instructions:
If you can't post the pic here, can you send it to: cloudsofsmoke@hotmail.com
Thanks! and this thread rocks! I used a LOC for my rear sub's signal, and it sounded like crap. The factory amp boosted the bass too much, so if I do this RCA mod, I'll be really happy.
I know which wires to tap to, but I'm confused as to how to strip/cut the RCA cable. Basically, I don't understand this part of the instructions:
Take 2 1M to 2F RCA "Y" adapters. Chop the Male ends off. Strip back the outer insulation 1". Wrap the shield into a strand away from the center dielectric. Strip back the center dielectric 1/2".
Thanks! and this thread rocks! I used a LOC for my rear sub's signal, and it sounded like crap. The factory amp boosted the bass too much, so if I do this RCA mod, I'll be really happy.
Last edited by toxoviper; 09-16-2006 at 05:27 PM.
09-16-2006 | 06:35 PM
#164
Thread Starter
VP Electricity
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,617
Likes: 8
From: Portland OR US
Oh, I don't mind 
The best results are obtained by using twisted-pair RCA Ys. I describe it there with coaxial, but twisted pair is much better.
Also, if you are using metal ended RCA connectors, make sure they can't touch metal or each other!
Any more questions, email me at acurazine at avincar dot com.
The best results are obtained by using twisted-pair RCA Ys. I describe it there with coaxial, but twisted pair is much better.
Also, if you are using metal ended RCA connectors, make sure they can't touch metal or each other!
Any more questions, email me at acurazine at avincar dot com.
09-17-2006 | 05:51 PM
#165
10th Gear
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
I just need to tap into the Rear Speaker Pre-amp wires, so I believe I only need one RCA-Y cable (2Female to 1 Male).
Should I splice the L&R (+) Rear speaker outputs to the single Male RCA's (+) end, and the L&R (-) Rear Speaker outputs to the single Male RCA's (-) end?
Should I splice the L&R (+) Rear speaker outputs to the single Male RCA's (+) end, and the L&R (-) Rear Speaker outputs to the single Male RCA's (-) end?
09-19-2006 | 09:20 PM
#167
Thread Starter
VP Electricity
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,617
Likes: 8
From: Portland OR US
Sigh. You really are the first person in two years to have this particular misunderstanding.
If you get a 1-M-to-2-F "Y" cable, and you cut the male end off at the split, you have TWO FEMALE RNA CONNECTORS WITH WIRES COMING OUT!
The whole reason to use 1-male-to-2-female connectors in this situation, as I said originally, is simply to get 2 female RCA connectors with wires coming out!
You are NOT summing them together with the Y cable.
If you get a 1-M-to-2-F "Y" cable, and you cut the male end off at the split, you have TWO FEMALE RNA CONNECTORS WITH WIRES COMING OUT!
The whole reason to use 1-male-to-2-female connectors in this situation, as I said originally, is simply to get 2 female RCA connectors with wires coming out!
You are NOT summing them together with the Y cable.
11-15-2006 | 01:18 PM
#168
Hello elduderino,
Do you know if this pre-out is applicable to Honda Accord 2003-2007? I was thinking it might be due to teh fact it also comes with the stock 6 disc changer and TSX is just a European accord.
Thanks
Do you know if this pre-out is applicable to Honda Accord 2003-2007? I was thinking it might be due to teh fact it also comes with the stock 6 disc changer and TSX is just a European accord.
Thanks
11-16-2006 | 11:56 AM
#171
Thread Starter
VP Electricity
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,617
Likes: 8
From: Portland OR US
Originally Posted by funkbro2
So are you saying RCA outs can be created from the Accord headunit?
This is basically what I am interested in, so that I don't need to add a head-unit to add amp w/o using a Line Out Convertor
This is basically what I am interested in, so that I don't need to add a head-unit to add amp w/o using a Line Out Convertor
I'm saying that the Accord diagram I saw had speaker-level outputs and no preamp level outputs.
But I've never done an Accord and I haven't researched it much.
If you get a wiring diagram on your car and email it to me I'll look at it, though.
11-16-2006 | 12:41 PM
#172
Damn! lol.
I don't have the car yet but I was pushing for an Accord becuase i was hoping the TSX conditions applied
If I get an accord I will obtain a wiring diagram! Is there any way to tell what frequencies a headunit pushes out at speaker level? That would be important if I have to look into LOC's
I don't have the car yet but I was pushing for an Accord becuase i was hoping the TSX conditions applied
If I get an accord I will obtain a wiring diagram! Is there any way to tell what frequencies a headunit pushes out at speaker level? That would be important if I have to look into LOC's
11-17-2006 | 01:55 PM
#175
Thread Starter
VP Electricity
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,617
Likes: 8
From: Portland OR US
Originally Posted by 20ACURA06
Does Anyone Have Pics Of How To Take The Stock Out?? How To Get Behind That Stock Radio?? Appreciate Any Help
Why would you want to take the stock radio out?
Ive done dozens of iPod installs and maybe a dozen amp upgrades and I've never taken that radio out...
11-18-2006 | 10:45 AM
#176
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by elduderino
No, but I have pics on how to turn off Caps Lock.
Why would you want to take the stock radio out?
Ive done dozens of iPod installs and maybe a dozen amp upgrades and I've never taken that radio out...
Why would you want to take the stock radio out?
Ive done dozens of iPod installs and maybe a dozen amp upgrades and I've never taken that radio out...
hehehe my caps bothered you!!! well do you have the pics or not? i need to get behind that stock!!!
thanks
11-18-2006 | 11:03 AM
#177
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by elduderino
(print and give to install shop)
Most installers haven't come across an OEM head unit like this, and most haven't seemed to believe the car owner that this can be done - so here's a writeup for you explaning that...
THIS IN-DASH CD CHANGER HEAD UNIT HAS 4 NORMAL PREAMP OUTPUTS!
It does NOT have RCAs on it, but the electrical signal is the same - it is not any funky balanced or DC-clamped signal or anything like that. It's a normal single-ended RCA signal without the RCA plugs. These wires have been tested with an oscilloscope. The output is the exact same level as a non-4V head unit.
The head unit also has NO equalization - flat response from 20-20k at any volume. In short, it's a great head unit, and many amps have been added to it with no noise and great sound quality. It''s actually very easy to do - so don't make it harder by ignoring this info and having to re-do your work, OK?
LOC's will add noise, both engine noise and background hiss. This is bad.
However, we have seen some engine noise if the mid/highs amp gain is raised very high. In these cases we have seen a line driver installed in the OEM amp location mentioned below solve the problem.
(IF YOU ADD A GLI FOR ANY REASON, DO NOT SET IT NEAR THE AIRBAG ECU IN THE FRONT CONSOLE AREA, IT IS A KNOWN NOISE EMITTER! The coil inside your GLI will pick up noise here! Also, do not set passive speaker xovers near this ECU)
Instructions:
Pull pocket and console around shifter. The OEM amp is a black box with a 20-pin harness and a 14-pin harness (it has "Made By Pioneer" on the bottom.) The 14-pin has a usable Remote Turn-On wire and the wires you need for RCAs. The 20-pin has speaker wires.
Take 2 1M to 2F RCA "Y" adapters. Chop the Male ends off. Strip back the outer insulation 1". Wrap the shield into a strand away from the center dielectric. Strip back the center dielectric 1/2". Now connect these directly to the wires below:
(Note: Each - is across form each + in the plug)
Right Front:
B4, Blue + (center of RCA)
B7 Red - (shield of RCA)
Left Front:
B1 Red/Blue + (center of RCA)
B8 Yellow - (shield of RCA)
Right Rear:
B6 Lt Green + (center of RCA)
B13 Purple - (shield of RCA)
Left Rear:
B3 Blue + (center of RCA)
B10 Pink - (shield of RCA)
B7 Yellow/Green is the 12V Remote Turn On wire. It can safely run two amps. Do not short it out, it also powers the FM amp in the C pllar (but it is powered with sources other than FM, don't worry).
B2 Brown/Yellow, B9 Gray/Blue, B5 Brown, and B12 Gray are extra shield grounds that are grounded inside the amp. You probably should ground them (although it doesn't seem to make any difference.)
Here's a wiring diagram:
http://www.shinzu.com/tsx/images/repair/tsxaudio2.jpg
(The author is a veteran of the 12V industry of almost two decades. He has been the manager of tech support for a major 12V manufacturer, he helped write the MECP tests, and he has written numerous articles for Car Audio and Mobile Electronics magazines. None of that means he's right about this... but he is.)
Verified instructions on using the preamp outputs of the Acura TSX.
Most installers haven't come across an OEM head unit like this, and most haven't seemed to believe the car owner that this can be done - so here's a writeup for you explaning that...
THIS IN-DASH CD CHANGER HEAD UNIT HAS 4 NORMAL PREAMP OUTPUTS!
It does NOT have RCAs on it, but the electrical signal is the same - it is not any funky balanced or DC-clamped signal or anything like that. It's a normal single-ended RCA signal without the RCA plugs. These wires have been tested with an oscilloscope. The output is the exact same level as a non-4V head unit.
The head unit also has NO equalization - flat response from 20-20k at any volume. In short, it's a great head unit, and many amps have been added to it with no noise and great sound quality. It''s actually very easy to do - so don't make it harder by ignoring this info and having to re-do your work, OK?
NO LOC's ARE NEEDED!
LOC's will add noise, both engine noise and background hiss. This is bad.
However, we have seen some engine noise if the mid/highs amp gain is raised very high. In these cases we have seen a line driver installed in the OEM amp location mentioned below solve the problem.
(IF YOU ADD A GLI FOR ANY REASON, DO NOT SET IT NEAR THE AIRBAG ECU IN THE FRONT CONSOLE AREA, IT IS A KNOWN NOISE EMITTER! The coil inside your GLI will pick up noise here! Also, do not set passive speaker xovers near this ECU)
Instructions:
Pull pocket and console around shifter. The OEM amp is a black box with a 20-pin harness and a 14-pin harness (it has "Made By Pioneer" on the bottom.) The 14-pin has a usable Remote Turn-On wire and the wires you need for RCAs. The 20-pin has speaker wires.
Take 2 1M to 2F RCA "Y" adapters. Chop the Male ends off. Strip back the outer insulation 1". Wrap the shield into a strand away from the center dielectric. Strip back the center dielectric 1/2". Now connect these directly to the wires below:
(Note: Each - is across form each + in the plug)
Right Front:
B4, Blue + (center of RCA)
B7 Red - (shield of RCA)
Left Front:
B1 Red/Blue + (center of RCA)
B8 Yellow - (shield of RCA)
Right Rear:
B6 Lt Green + (center of RCA)
B13 Purple - (shield of RCA)
Left Rear:
B3 Blue + (center of RCA)
B10 Pink - (shield of RCA)
B7 Yellow/Green is the 12V Remote Turn On wire. It can safely run two amps. Do not short it out, it also powers the FM amp in the C pllar (but it is powered with sources other than FM, don't worry).
B2 Brown/Yellow, B9 Gray/Blue, B5 Brown, and B12 Gray are extra shield grounds that are grounded inside the amp. You probably should ground them (although it doesn't seem to make any difference.)
Here's a wiring diagram:
http://www.shinzu.com/tsx/images/repair/tsxaudio2.jpg
(The author is a veteran of the 12V industry of almost two decades. He has been the manager of tech support for a major 12V manufacturer, he helped write the MECP tests, and he has written numerous articles for Car Audio and Mobile Electronics magazines. None of that means he's right about this... but he is.)
Here's a wiring diagram:
http://www.shinzu.com/tsx/images/repair/tsxaudio2.jpg
wiring diagram website is not working. any other place i can look at.
12-06-2006 | 03:17 PM
#180
Cruisin'
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by elduderino
(print and give to install shop)
Most installers haven't come across an OEM head unit like this, and most haven't seemed to believe the car owner that this can be done - so here's a writeup for you explaning that...
THIS IN-DASH CD CHANGER HEAD UNIT HAS 4 NORMAL PREAMP OUTPUTS!
It does NOT have RCAs on it, but the electrical signal is the same - it is not any funky balanced or DC-clamped signal or anything like that. It's a normal single-ended RCA signal without the RCA plugs. These wires have been tested with an oscilloscope. The output is the exact same level as a non-4V head unit.
The head unit also has NO equalization - flat response from 20-20k at any volume. In short, it's a great head unit, and many amps have been added to it with no noise and great sound quality. It''s actually very easy to do - so don't make it harder by ignoring this info and having to re-do your work, OK?
LOC's will add noise, both engine noise and background hiss. This is bad.
However, we have seen some engine noise if the mid/highs amp gain is raised very high. In these cases we have seen a line driver installed in the OEM amp location mentioned below solve the problem.
(IF YOU ADD A GLI FOR ANY REASON, DO NOT SET IT NEAR THE AIRBAG ECU IN THE FRONT CONSOLE AREA, IT IS A KNOWN NOISE EMITTER! The coil inside your GLI will pick up noise here! Also, do not set passive speaker xovers near this ECU)
Instructions:
Pull pocket and console around shifter. The OEM amp is a black box with a 20-pin harness and a 14-pin harness (it has "Made By Pioneer" on the bottom.) The 14-pin has a usable Remote Turn-On wire and the wires you need for RCAs. The 20-pin has speaker wires.
Take 2 1M to 2F RCA "Y" adapters. Chop the Male ends off. Strip back the outer insulation 1". Wrap the shield into a strand away from the center dielectric. Strip back the center dielectric 1/2". Now connect these directly to the wires below:
(Note: Each - is across form each + in the plug)
Right Front:
B4, Blue + (center of RCA)
B7 Red - (shield of RCA)
Left Front:
B1 Red/Blue + (center of RCA)
B8 Yellow - (shield of RCA)
Right Rear:
B6 Lt Green + (center of RCA)
B13 Purple - (shield of RCA)
Left Rear:
B3 Blue + (center of RCA)
B10 Pink - (shield of RCA)
B7 Yellow/Green is the 12V Remote Turn On wire. It can safely run two amps. Do not short it out, it also powers the FM amp in the C pllar (but it is powered with sources other than FM, don't worry).
B2 Brown/Yellow, B9 Gray/Blue, B5 Brown, and B12 Gray are extra shield grounds that are grounded inside the amp. You probably should ground them (although it doesn't seem to make any difference.)
Here's a wiring diagram:
http://www.shinzu.com/tsx/images/repair/tsxaudio2.jpg
(The author is a veteran of the 12V industry of almost two decades. He has been the manager of tech support for a major 12V manufacturer, he helped write the MECP tests, and he has written numerous articles for Car Audio and Mobile Electronics magazines. None of that means he's right about this... but he is.)
Verified instructions on using the preamp outputs of the Acura TSX.
Most installers haven't come across an OEM head unit like this, and most haven't seemed to believe the car owner that this can be done - so here's a writeup for you explaning that...
THIS IN-DASH CD CHANGER HEAD UNIT HAS 4 NORMAL PREAMP OUTPUTS!
It does NOT have RCAs on it, but the electrical signal is the same - it is not any funky balanced or DC-clamped signal or anything like that. It's a normal single-ended RCA signal without the RCA plugs. These wires have been tested with an oscilloscope. The output is the exact same level as a non-4V head unit.
The head unit also has NO equalization - flat response from 20-20k at any volume. In short, it's a great head unit, and many amps have been added to it with no noise and great sound quality. It''s actually very easy to do - so don't make it harder by ignoring this info and having to re-do your work, OK?
NO LOC's ARE NEEDED!
LOC's will add noise, both engine noise and background hiss. This is bad.
However, we have seen some engine noise if the mid/highs amp gain is raised very high. In these cases we have seen a line driver installed in the OEM amp location mentioned below solve the problem.
(IF YOU ADD A GLI FOR ANY REASON, DO NOT SET IT NEAR THE AIRBAG ECU IN THE FRONT CONSOLE AREA, IT IS A KNOWN NOISE EMITTER! The coil inside your GLI will pick up noise here! Also, do not set passive speaker xovers near this ECU)
Instructions:
Pull pocket and console around shifter. The OEM amp is a black box with a 20-pin harness and a 14-pin harness (it has "Made By Pioneer" on the bottom.) The 14-pin has a usable Remote Turn-On wire and the wires you need for RCAs. The 20-pin has speaker wires.
Take 2 1M to 2F RCA "Y" adapters. Chop the Male ends off. Strip back the outer insulation 1". Wrap the shield into a strand away from the center dielectric. Strip back the center dielectric 1/2". Now connect these directly to the wires below:
(Note: Each - is across form each + in the plug)
Right Front:
B4, Blue + (center of RCA)
B7 Red - (shield of RCA)
Left Front:
B1 Red/Blue + (center of RCA)
B8 Yellow - (shield of RCA)
Right Rear:
B6 Lt Green + (center of RCA)
B13 Purple - (shield of RCA)
Left Rear:
B3 Blue + (center of RCA)
B10 Pink - (shield of RCA)
B7 Yellow/Green is the 12V Remote Turn On wire. It can safely run two amps. Do not short it out, it also powers the FM amp in the C pllar (but it is powered with sources other than FM, don't worry).
B2 Brown/Yellow, B9 Gray/Blue, B5 Brown, and B12 Gray are extra shield grounds that are grounded inside the amp. You probably should ground them (although it doesn't seem to make any difference.)
Here's a wiring diagram:
http://www.shinzu.com/tsx/images/repair/tsxaudio2.jpg
(The author is a veteran of the 12V industry of almost two decades. He has been the manager of tech support for a major 12V manufacturer, he helped write the MECP tests, and he has written numerous articles for Car Audio and Mobile Electronics magazines. None of that means he's right about this... but he is.)
does this apply to the 2007 TSX as well?
thankz
12-29-2006 | 03:29 PM
#181
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Wiring diagram hosted on my site.
I will try to remember never to delete this directory, but I would download the image for safe keeping.
http://seanberry.com/acura/04tsx_audiosystem.jpg
I assume this is the same diagram that was mentioned in the initial post, but this link is still functional.
Happy wiring.
http://seanberry.com/acura/04tsx_audiosystem.jpg
I assume this is the same diagram that was mentioned in the initial post, but this link is still functional.
Happy wiring.
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