TL: i got an amp and subs need to know how to hook them up while keeping the stock HU
#1
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i got an amp and subs need to know how to hook them up while keeping the stock HU
I have a 1000w amp and two subs in a box. so how do i hook them up while still keeping the stock HU. is there a way to use the same wires that go into the stock amp or do i have to get new wires and which ones would i have to get. Thanks in advanced and please im a noob so don't go all technical oh and this is on a 03 tl-s
#2
Drifting
Please search around. This topic has been discussed many many many times. It's the same for most cars, so you don't need to find one where someone has done it in your exact car.
#3
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Remove your factory subwoofer.
Either put in a LOC...or solder the speaker wires from there to an RCA plug and go straight to the amp.
I'm assuming you know how to run and connect your power/ground/remote wire.
Run remote turn on from accessory fuse under driver side.
Then you can turn your sub gain up and down using the factory radio.
Good luck!
Either put in a LOC...or solder the speaker wires from there to an RCA plug and go straight to the amp.
I'm assuming you know how to run and connect your power/ground/remote wire.
Run remote turn on from accessory fuse under driver side.
Then you can turn your sub gain up and down using the factory radio.
Good luck!
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#9
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i Connect My JL 1000/1 Amp and 12w7 into my stock head unit..
1.) all i did was wire tap the step down onto the factory sub
2.) with the RCA wires i connected the STEP down and Amp together for sound
3.) I believe remote wire can be tap in a few different places..but i connected my remote wire to the OEM Head Unit
and last u should know about power and ground
1.) all i did was wire tap the step down onto the factory sub
2.) with the RCA wires i connected the STEP down and Amp together for sound
3.) I believe remote wire can be tap in a few different places..but i connected my remote wire to the OEM Head Unit
and last u should know about power and ground
#10
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Yes,
reworded, but same concept.
A stepdown is also known as an LOC...or can use the solder the two leads to an RCA male end and run to your amp if you know how.
All the rest is the same although I find it almost too complex to have to get behind the headunit just for remote turn on when you can much more easily access the driver side kick panel for an ACC fuse (one that has power when the car is on ACC and NO power when off)
reworded, but same concept.
A stepdown is also known as an LOC...or can use the solder the two leads to an RCA male end and run to your amp if you know how.
All the rest is the same although I find it almost too complex to have to get behind the headunit just for remote turn on when you can much more easily access the driver side kick panel for an ACC fuse (one that has power when the car is on ACC and NO power when off)
#12
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Hmmm...only problem I've found with MOST of the electronics in the car is they all come on once the car is on...which obviously defeats the purpose if you're looking for a system kill switch.
My recommendation is go to the autoparts store and look for a basic disconnect switch that you can wire inline on the remote wire and mount it somewhere easily accessible, like the kick panel or under the driver knees (drill small hole in plastic and mount , just do it low so it's not visible). Voila! Easy!
Anyway...I sound all smarty pants but the first time I did I wired my remote to the factory radio too. lol. That's why I knew this way was much easier.
ALSO...
PS...
I figured this out after buying a new amp thinking my old one was fu*ked. The signal from the OEM remote wire to the oem amp is VERY low voltage so it won't turn on a big strong amp. The amp will light up and get power...it just won't turn on.
My recommendation is go to the autoparts store and look for a basic disconnect switch that you can wire inline on the remote wire and mount it somewhere easily accessible, like the kick panel or under the driver knees (drill small hole in plastic and mount , just do it low so it's not visible). Voila! Easy!
Anyway...I sound all smarty pants but the first time I did I wired my remote to the factory radio too. lol. That's why I knew this way was much easier.
ALSO...
PS...
I figured this out after buying a new amp thinking my old one was fu*ked. The signal from the OEM remote wire to the oem amp is VERY low voltage so it won't turn on a big strong amp. The amp will light up and get power...it just won't turn on.
#13
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I am installing a pair of subs into my car and I am going to be using the factory HU.
I am unsure what the stepdown and LOC is...
the previous owner of my car had subs in the trunk and they had a controller to adjust the amp mounted on the driver side kick panel; well the controller is still there and I am wondering if there would be a way to hook that up to the amp, would I need a certain kind of amp?
#14
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Probably...usually those are remote gain knobs are from a particular amp, or linedriver/crossover. Check the brand. Unless it controlled signal strength.
Honestly though...if you take your signal from the stock sub wires...you can control your bass volume using the headunit. Which is cleaner IMO.
A stepdown/LOC is a line output converter. It allows you to crimp onto stock wires and then has a plug for your RCA's. I recently changed my setup to a set of speaker wires I soldered onto an RCA male end that I ran direct to my sub amp. Perfect.
Honestly though...if you take your signal from the stock sub wires...you can control your bass volume using the headunit. Which is cleaner IMO.
A stepdown/LOC is a line output converter. It allows you to crimp onto stock wires and then has a plug for your RCA's. I recently changed my setup to a set of speaker wires I soldered onto an RCA male end that I ran direct to my sub amp. Perfect.
#17
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so today I recieved the wiring kit in the mail, so I went and looked in my trunk where I can connect the ground wire, and I notice that the OEM subwoofer wasn't even hooked up, the wires were connected to wires that were probably from the old setup from the p.o. and when it was removed they never hooked the oem sub back up!!
#18
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Wow...
I thought there was a lack of bass WITH the sub connected...I can only imagine. Did the p.o. bother putting the sub back in at least? If so, connect it and see if you're satisfied (doubtful). But since it's easy you might as well!
When you take out the trunk floor facing the front of the car from the back...to the left right when you get to the seat back you'll see a perfect bolt for grounding.
I thought there was a lack of bass WITH the sub connected...I can only imagine. Did the p.o. bother putting the sub back in at least? If so, connect it and see if you're satisfied (doubtful). But since it's easy you might as well!
When you take out the trunk floor facing the front of the car from the back...to the left right when you get to the seat back you'll see a perfect bolt for grounding.
#19
Like a BOSS
#20
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Hmm...it was my first attempt and I didn't take pics...
but I CAN tell you it's easy.
Cut one side of an RCA wire off and strip back the shielding...it will reveal the wires on the outside...pull that back and then strip back part of the clear shielding on the indside that will reveal your 2nd set of shielding.
Positive speaker wire gets soldered to the inside and negative to the outside wires.
but I CAN tell you it's easy.
Cut one side of an RCA wire off and strip back the shielding...it will reveal the wires on the outside...pull that back and then strip back part of the clear shielding on the indside that will reveal your 2nd set of shielding.
Positive speaker wire gets soldered to the inside and negative to the outside wires.
#21
Like a BOSS
Hmm...it was my first attempt and I didn't take pics...
but I CAN tell you it's easy.
Cut one side of an RCA wire off and strip back the shielding...it will reveal the wires on the outside...pull that back and then strip back part of the clear shielding on the indside that will reveal your 2nd set of shielding.
Positive speaker wire gets soldered to the inside and negative to the outside wires.
but I CAN tell you it's easy.
Cut one side of an RCA wire off and strip back the shielding...it will reveal the wires on the outside...pull that back and then strip back part of the clear shielding on the indside that will reveal your 2nd set of shielding.
Positive speaker wire gets soldered to the inside and negative to the outside wires.
Im going to assume the pos. and. neg are the two wires going into the stock sub, so I can use the factory bass knob
#24
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I'm probably going to rerun one too...I like the idea of being able to kill sound altogether when I want complete silence in the car.
PS...
You need 1 RCA end...just 1.
Cut back the shielding on it and you'll see what I'm talking about...there shielding...then wire...then another shield and an inner wire. Outer one is neg...inner one is positive. And yes, splice onto your subwoofer wires and you can control your amp via the stock headunit!
PS...
You need 1 RCA end...just 1.
Cut back the shielding on it and you'll see what I'm talking about...there shielding...then wire...then another shield and an inner wire. Outer one is neg...inner one is positive. And yes, splice onto your subwoofer wires and you can control your amp via the stock headunit!
#25
Like a BOSS
I'm probably going to rerun one too...I like the idea of being able to kill sound altogether when I want complete silence in the car.
PS...
You need 1 RCA end...just 1.
Cut back the shielding on it and you'll see what I'm talking about...there shielding...then wire...then another shield and an inner wire. Outer one is neg...inner one is positive. And yes, splice onto your subwoofer wires and you can control your amp via the stock headunit!
PS...
You need 1 RCA end...just 1.
Cut back the shielding on it and you'll see what I'm talking about...there shielding...then wire...then another shield and an inner wire. Outer one is neg...inner one is positive. And yes, splice onto your subwoofer wires and you can control your amp via the stock headunit!
you lost me at the 1 RCA part. . .
you need a red RCA and a Black RCA (2 wires) to send signal to the amp
#26
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no sir...you don't.
Sub signal is mono...not stereo
meaning you can run 1 RCA to either the the Left or Right channel and get full bass.
1 rca needs 2 speaker wires to make it work. so take the 1 red one...and follow the instructions. You'll see what I mean.
Sub signal is mono...not stereo
meaning you can run 1 RCA to either the the Left or Right channel and get full bass.
1 rca needs 2 speaker wires to make it work. so take the 1 red one...and follow the instructions. You'll see what I mean.
#28
Like a BOSS
#29
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Trust me...if you read my other threads...that route would have been MUCH easier. You must not have a 3G or you'd know there aren't many viable/easy aftermarket headunit routes to go down. Plus, a line driver will mostly deliver more signal voltage than any aftermarket headunit out there.
#31
Cant you use a relay?
#32
Also let me get this correct....if i were to only use one lets just say the red plug on the RCA cable, i dont need the black plug at all on either sides meaning that when plugging into the amp i just use the red? the Black plug is out of picture totally?
And on the end of the RCA cable the red plug i would strip the wires and solder the outer wire to the equalizer unit (base -) and the inner wire unit (base +) and that's it?
And on the end of the RCA cable the red plug i would strip the wires and solder the outer wire to the equalizer unit (base -) and the inner wire unit (base +) and that's it?
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