hey guys, im planing to add a alpine subwoofer on my 2000 TL. Do i need to do anything special to get it to work? sorry im a noob haha. Also would i need to get a new radio to make this work?? thanks

 

you will need wire/amp/line out converter(if you want to keep the stock radio)

if you want i can help you out on prices for all of it and walk you through a bit.

 

yeah could you please if you have time thanks

 

ok ill start off with what you will need for an amplifier install

http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-ft-4-Gaug...ht_1443wt_1037
power/ground cable. good stuff for the average car

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STINGER-SGN1...ht_1598wt_1270

this is what you will use to get the signal input from your rear speakers to your amp.

hopefully you already have a decent amp. if not i can assist you with some choices.

i have a bit of experience on my hands when it comes to CA

 

oo i see thanks ill be getting those, also i got 2 12 inch alpines type rs. whats an good amp for those??. does the 2nd gen tl have an amp already in it? from the bose system. i need about 1000 watts right?

 

you always want to power aftermarket subs with an aftermarket amp.

i suggest the hifonics brz1200(151$)for 1200rms but make sure you do the big 3. (search on here)

 

oo is that better then the Alpine MRP M1000??? cause i see one on cr for $$100

 

bout the same

 

oo i see thanks for all your help i should have everything by this weekend

 

np man

 

I am running 2 Alpine Type R (The NEWEST ONES) SWR-1223D subs in a 4 cubic foot ported box powered by a Kicker ZX1000.1, birth sheet says it pushes a whopping 1200 RMS at 2 ohm. So each type R is getting exactly 600 RMS. IT SURE POUNDS!!

I would highly suggest/reccomend you ditch the BOSE SYSTEM COMPLETELY and at the very least get a new deck and new door speakers, even if you do not amp them.

Personally, I HATE ho/lo (line-out) converter. For the simple fact that the stock system does not let you equalize the sound to your speakers separately from your subs. Line-Out converters are good for simple cheap subs but with louder subs like the type R's you want SUB CONTROL!!!! You want to be able to turn up or down the bass on your speakers without turning up/down the bass to your subs or vise versa.

With an aftermarket deck, it separates the LO signal and the Hi singal with in the deck, giving off a cleaner sound with the ability to adjust as you please.

I would HIGHLY suggest you do thee BIG THREE upgrade and get a second battery or at the very least replace your main battery with an Optima or Kinetik.

I am running 1600 RMS (1200 to subs and 400 to speakers) and with 0 gauge through out the whole car, the big three upgrade and my JUICY Kinetik (1800) battery in the front I still got slight dimming. JUST THIS week I added my second battery and WOW the difference it make.

My entire system NEVER drops any lower than 13v and takes unwanted stress off the alternator.

If I were you this is what I would do/buy in this order:
1. Aftermarket deck (Includes dash kit, wiring harness, and RCAs)
2. Amp Kit (or make your own, I.e. power wire, ground wire, fuse and fuse holder and remote wire)
3. Door Speakers (even if you decide not to amp them)
4. Sub Amp (Alpine > Hifonics) ANY DAY!
5. Install subs

just my 2 cents. pm me if any special or particular question. check out my pics so you have an idea