TommyTL

Ok I need everyones expert opinion. I need you to tell me what amp would suit my situation.


Pioneer 10" Sub speaker with box 500watts rms
97 TL with original stock stereo system and speakers

Looking for a good quality amp that will allow me to use its features if I decide to upgrade to a better head unit.

Any recommendations will be appreciated. Please be specific. thanks!

kegrun

Go with a JLAudio 500/1. It will have enough power for that sub. And then some.!!

Kegrun

Austin519

TommyTL:
There's no real need to go with a JL 500/1. Those amps are only really "helpful" with high impedances...aka the 6 ohm range...because of the regulated voltage. Not only that...but you're powering a Pioneer, and a 10" at that. I'd say to go with a good Kenwood or Precision Power or Rockford Fosgate amp.

Austin519

TommyTL

So would u recommend me buying a mono amp for the sub? And then any other upgrades will require another amp? Is that how it should be ..2 separate amps?

preludeshfan

personally i wouldent reccomend any of the JL amp unless you have a major electrical system upgrade. i ran a JL 500/1 in my tl on a pair of 10's in one of my power mouse boxes for about a week and that damn amp about killed my alternator. even with a stock 105 amp alternator that amp was pulling my electrical system down to 12 volts from 14.1 ( i have a voltage display on my escort 8500) i have an amp in my car now that has more power than the JL and my lights dont even flicker.

fahoumh

isn't that what a cap is for? Sorry, I really don't know much about audio stuff.

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

Nope, the cap just helps when the amp needs a burst of power. Either way, the amp is still pulling a lot of juice.

fahoumh

so how would you fix this problem w/ a high-powered amp?

StreetEffectz

High Output Alternator or have your alternator rewound

SuperDave

The JL 500/1 is an efficient class D amplifier. Class D (also known incorrectly as Digital amps) is a new class of amplifiers that don't require as much juice to provide power to your subs or midbasses. Class D gives a lot of power without needing an upgrade to a stock electrical system. As with everything, you don't get something for nothing. They are only useful for subwoofers or for low-passed midbasses. Above 250 Hz. or so, they start to produce a lot of distortion. If you go to JL's website JLAudio 500/1 you will notice that its frequency response is only 5-500 Hz instead of the normal 20-20000 Hz. I have heard decent things about this amplifier although I don't have any particular feelings for or against JL Audio. I say it is a decent amp that will provide good power without taking much, will run cool, and probably sound good. Good luck.

David

hurricanevez

the most important thing to look for in an amp is its signal to noise ratio not brand name, for subs you want an amp with a 115db signal to noise ratio or higher, this ensures the clean crisp sound you want from a ten and makes the bass tone easier to adjust, second is the amps lowest stable ohm load, an amp that is stable in 2 ohm mono is preferable especially if you plan or need to add more subs, this low ohm load also enables you to have a smaller amp pushing the same wattage as a bigger amp but pulling less current from your battery and alternator, most speaker companies overrate their speakers power handeling capabilities, (for various reasons), a speaker that says it can take 500 watts rms will sound perfect at around 300 rms, 500 watts on a 500 watt speaker will pop the tensil leads, ive poped them before

SuperDave

hurricanevez,

I agree that you shouldn't look at brand name but at the specifications when choosing equipment. However I have some issues with some of the specs. you are recommending.

A signal to noise ratio of 115db is almost impossible to get from a reputable manufacturer in the car audio environment. Two high end amplifiers, Nakamichi and McIntosh only have 103 and 102db signal to noise ratio respectively.

I will agree with you that it would be good to get a amp that is stable into 2 ohms. However, when you bridge two channels into one as is often done for subs, not many amplifiers can go down to 2 ohms bridged. Many audiophiles also argue that an amplifier doesn't have much dynamic headroom when run at 2 ohms.

As far as a subwoofer that handles the power as specified, it depends on the quality of the sub. High quality subs should actually handle more than they are rated for depending on the manufacturer. I would also say that an amplifier that puts out 500 dirty watts would probably blow a high quality sub when it could actually handle 1000 clean watts.

I agreee that brand doesn't matter but I would recommend a manufacturer that has a decent reputation over a no name amp. Check out reviews at http://www.carreview.com and http://www.epinions.com/elec-Car_Stereo

Not trying to start a flame war or anything. I agree with much of what you said but I am trying to throw out other opinions that I have read on car audio forums.

David