God is mad at me.........
God is mad at me.........
I got everything in today, powered it up, and no sound.
The light on the US acoustics amp didn't even come on. The JBL sub amp seems fine.
I checked the power and remote inputs to the amp and both were receiving >12 volts. Both fuses checked out with my ohmmeter. I don't know what else to troubleshoot.
This is infuriating!! It worked the last time I had it installed. I built a new amp rack, installed it again, and now it seems to be dead.
If you can think of anything I might have missed during my troubleshooting process, PLEASE let me know!
Hell, it all boils down to power. I know it's getting it at both the main and the remote since I checked them at the amp's terminals using the amp's ground terminal for my ground connection. What else could be wrong?????
My frustration level is massive right now! I can only imagine how long it will take to get a replacement from the manufacturer. This fvcker hasn't even played an entire song yet!!!
The light on the US acoustics amp didn't even come on. The JBL sub amp seems fine.
I checked the power and remote inputs to the amp and both were receiving >12 volts. Both fuses checked out with my ohmmeter. I don't know what else to troubleshoot.
This is infuriating!! It worked the last time I had it installed. I built a new amp rack, installed it again, and now it seems to be dead.
If you can think of anything I might have missed during my troubleshooting process, PLEASE let me know!
Hell, it all boils down to power. I know it's getting it at both the main and the remote since I checked them at the amp's terminals using the amp's ground terminal for my ground connection. What else could be wrong?????
My frustration level is massive right now! I can only imagine how long it will take to get a replacement from the manufacturer. This fvcker hasn't even played an entire song yet!!!
Nope, missed it last week. Watched it on TV instead.
The voltmeter is telling me that the amp should be turning on. 12V to main, 12V to remote, ground is good. Looks like bringing an amp into my house becomes the death of it. Two amps dead in two weeks.
Maybe I need to rethink the brand. A lot of bang for the buck is a good thing IF the unit has longevity.
The voltmeter is telling me that the amp should be turning on. 12V to main, 12V to remote, ground is good. Looks like bringing an amp into my house becomes the death of it. Two amps dead in two weeks.
Maybe I need to rethink the brand. A lot of bang for the buck is a good thing IF the unit has longevity.
OK, I just got a big piece of sh!t pie handed to me. I did as dnd2984 suggested, which I should have done to begin with, and found out that I had miswired the ground and the remote inputs to the amp. Thanks for the quick slap dude! 
Rewired them and I'm in sound! Major sound!!
I forgot about the Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS) pricipal and just assumed that the gear was bad. I'm an idiot.
Well, now that I see things are working properly, I have a lot to do. I'm tired of my console sitting in my garage.
Thanks all.

Rewired them and I'm in sound! Major sound!!
I forgot about the Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS) pricipal and just assumed that the gear was bad. I'm an idiot.
Well, now that I see things are working properly, I have a lot to do. I'm tired of my console sitting in my garage.
Thanks all.
Its ok we all do dumb things
(sometimes). I cant Fckin deciede which damn subs I want to use. THis is what I have so far. Type Rs in the front and back, Cda 9815 unit and fosgate 550x and 500bd amp. I am one of those guys that likes to keep everything one brand, So I was thinking all alpine speakers and RF amps. I hooked up one Diamond Audio Sub I have for the RSX up in the TL and it sounds nice, And I know the Diamond and the Type R alpine subs probally sound the same. The only subs I also would use would be ALpine or Kicker. I am tryin to think of a combination that will give me the best output,
2 type R 12s in a sealed box
2 Type R 10s in a vented box
or 1 L7 in a vented box
I sold my L5 and the box with one amp for $520
(sometimes). I cant Fckin deciede which damn subs I want to use. THis is what I have so far. Type Rs in the front and back, Cda 9815 unit and fosgate 550x and 500bd amp. I am one of those guys that likes to keep everything one brand, So I was thinking all alpine speakers and RF amps. I hooked up one Diamond Audio Sub I have for the RSX up in the TL and it sounds nice, And I know the Diamond and the Type R alpine subs probally sound the same. The only subs I also would use would be ALpine or Kicker. I am tryin to think of a combination that will give me the best output, 2 type R 12s in a sealed box
2 Type R 10s in a vented box
or 1 L7 in a vented box
I sold my L5 and the box with one amp for $520
Thanks again for the "slap"!
Now, on to your dilemma. I think you're comparing apples to oranges. Sealed vs. vented is a HUGE difference. With the sealed box, you'll get a smaller footprint while losing some of the heavier hits at the tuning frequency. However, the vented boxes are typically MUCH bigger and IMHO sloppier sounding.
I'm a total sealed box guy. I've tried vented and bandpass but found that I prefer the accuracy I got from the sealed box. Since I'm only into metal, I'm not looking to impress someone with the boom. I just want subs that can keep up with a band with dual bass drums pounding.
Another issue to consider is the area of a 12 vs. a 10 sub.
A 12 has a 113 in. vs a 10's 78.5 in. total area. Pretty big difference. You can build a box with the 12's sealed or the 10's ported. I'd personally go with the 12's sealed.
Just my opinion. Vented enclosures tend to get really large really fast and the SQ drops quicker than sh!t.
If it were me, and the loss of trunk space isn't an issue, I'd go with the dual 12 setup. I know the L7 is a "mack daddy" sub, but I doubt it could compete with two 12" Type R's.
Again, just my own personal thoughts. It's your ride and your $$$$.
Let us know what you do!!
Now, on to your dilemma. I think you're comparing apples to oranges. Sealed vs. vented is a HUGE difference. With the sealed box, you'll get a smaller footprint while losing some of the heavier hits at the tuning frequency. However, the vented boxes are typically MUCH bigger and IMHO sloppier sounding.
I'm a total sealed box guy. I've tried vented and bandpass but found that I prefer the accuracy I got from the sealed box. Since I'm only into metal, I'm not looking to impress someone with the boom. I just want subs that can keep up with a band with dual bass drums pounding.
Another issue to consider is the area of a 12 vs. a 10 sub.
A 12 has a 113 in. vs a 10's 78.5 in. total area. Pretty big difference. You can build a box with the 12's sealed or the 10's ported. I'd personally go with the 12's sealed.
Just my opinion. Vented enclosures tend to get really large really fast and the SQ drops quicker than sh!t.
If it were me, and the loss of trunk space isn't an issue, I'd go with the dual 12 setup. I know the L7 is a "mack daddy" sub, but I doubt it could compete with two 12" Type R's.
Again, just my own personal thoughts. It's your ride and your $$$$.
Let us know what you do!!
OK its gonna be a sealed box whether its 10s or 12's. I am leaning more toward the 10s right now. I like a variety of music and type R 10s can get pretty low. Only being 19 people think I dont have to use my trunk but due to my parents owning couple of small businesses I sometimes have to make weekly trips to the wholesalers for laundry supplies. When I had the L5 in the vneted box I had to take it out everyweek to go shopping!!! And If I get the 10s I only need to give them about .8 cuft of air to each woofer.
Then another thing. I honestly did get the vented 3.0cu ft box to get attention and impress friends. Which now I think about it was really gay.
Then another thing. I honestly did get the vented 3.0cu ft box to get attention and impress friends. Which now I think about it was really gay.
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I personally would agree with Bozz that sealed is the way to go. Takes up less room and just sounds alot tighter. True, ported does require less power to hit the same levels but, sealed is so easy to build and work with. I just looked in the Crutchfield mag and it says the Type R 10" will work in as small as .5 and the Type R 12" .7. That is roughly 1.00-1.50 cubic feet for a pair of either subs. That is tiny. It is just amazing how small of space good sealed subs will work with. I think about the only exception is the W7. They still require a pretty big box.
Just my .02.
Bozz....glad you worked out the problem. I would hate to think you had to buy 2 amps in a month.
Just my .02.
Bozz....glad you worked out the problem. I would hate to think you had to buy 2 amps in a month.
Originally posted by dnd2984
Then another thing. I honestly did get the vented 3.0cu ft box to get attention and impress friends. Which now I think about it was really gay.
Then another thing. I honestly did get the vented 3.0cu ft box to get attention and impress friends. Which now I think about it was really gay.
I think you'll be very happy with your choice to go with sealed 10's or 12's. I can tell you that my 12's hit really hard and as low as I'd want them to. They are also very tight which is what I need for the type of music I listen to. You don't get a lot of low deep booming from metal.
I bought a set of 10's to do a compare. With my amp rack flush, the box with the 12's doesn't take up near as much space as I originally thought it would. ~1.0 cu.ft. per sub. The 10's can go in a 0.6 cu.ft. per sub box.
The sub box project will come after I ditch the Polks and put the ID 5.25 mids in the rear. I have to cut the front doors to get the 6.5 ID mids in but I KNOW it will sound better. The 5.25s will be good for rear fill but sound rather thin to be the "main" speakers.
Thanks AcuraX2. I was ready to scream when there was no sound. The saddest thing is how you never think you've miswired something. You're so careful and everything....then you realize what a dumba$$ move you made. Luckily I didn't fry the amp in the process.
It was dnd that prompted me to go out and give it all one more look before buying a new amp...I wasn't going to wait for this one to be fixed.....
hey, dnd, tell everyone what you got and who hooked ya up 
btw all, a ported box can and will sound just as good as a sealed box if cooked up just right w/the right sub for the job. i heard a friends 300M w/2 12" mass subs in a ported box and he is a metal man....that b!tch rocked and it rocked loud. it played loud, low and accurately. it was insane how well it sounded! so dont think that vented is always boomy cause a book isnt always what its cover suggests
also, who said metal doesnt play low? some of my favorite bass heavy songs are from korn and tool. plus who could forget metallica's black album???

btw all, a ported box can and will sound just as good as a sealed box if cooked up just right w/the right sub for the job. i heard a friends 300M w/2 12" mass subs in a ported box and he is a metal man....that b!tch rocked and it rocked loud. it played loud, low and accurately. it was insane how well it sounded! so dont think that vented is always boomy cause a book isnt always what its cover suggests

also, who said metal doesnt play low? some of my favorite bass heavy songs are from korn and tool. plus who could forget metallica's black album???
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just recheck all the wires it can be something small that can be doing that
