dorrington

yeah i thought that would get your attention...

first off, I haven't done this, but I plan on doing it, and after a little research on the net I think it should work.

you see, apparently our navi's work through an RGB connection, that is how AVelectronic's unit (as well as vsolkov's) connect to the navi. As luck would have it, I came across this product:
http://www.lik-sang.com/info.php?cat...roducts_id=266 .
It is an RGB cable for playstation 2 that uses a european connector called SCART. You see, the PS2 can be switched to RGB mode through the setup menu. Why buy an RGB converter that converts from analog to RGB, when you can retain RGB all the way through? Since the PS2 operates in RGB and there is no need for converting signals, this would actually give superior resolution to ANY RGB converter, including AVelec. In theory, at least, a setup like this should have superior resolution to any other method of connecting a PS2, even in your home (yes, better than s-video, etc.) Unfortunately, its not plug and play, but the SCART signal can be seperated into the red, green, blue, their respective grounds, and the requisite SYNC signal as well as its ground. To complicate things, however, it is a composite sync signal that cannot be used by our navi's RGB. There is however, a sync seperator called the LM1881 that isolates the SYNC signal needed. A circuit needs to be built, but it is fairly simple. For info on the LM1881 and the circuit, go here: http://www.gamesx.com/misctech/lm1881.htm
or
http://www.hut.fi/Misc/Electronics/f...rgb/scart.html
After the SYNC is seperated, it should be fairly simple, the connection should be similar to vsolkov's unit, or any other RGB converter. The total cost of all these materials should be less that $15 or so.


To further cheapen things, an inverter is not needed with the PS2, but it can be converted to 12v DC for REALLY cheap. See here for info/how-to; go to projects/mods, then PS2 adapter:
http://asdffdsa.net/

Now, I havent built completely new cicuits before, but for this cheap I will attempt it. Is a breadboard an OK way to go? If anyone is good at it, do you think you could build me a nice PCB with all the needed components? Any other comments, suggestions, input, or criticisms are greatly appreciated.

Castles_Saloon

As in the gamesx link, they were able to conceal the circuitry quite easily. You probably don't even need a breadboard. If you can connect up the circuit and verify it functions, you can glue it down with epoxy inside the connector head of the cable. it would be concealed and should rather immune to physical shock if you glued it good. A pcb with the circuit layout you want would be expensive. If you want something cleaner than a breadboard, then you can look at etching out your traces to make a psuedo pcb.

But for cheap, all you need is a soldering iron, electrical components, wire, glue, solder of course, cabling and some play time...

Hope it helps

dorrington

well in the link the connector is to a serial type input. Since the SCART connector would be discarded, I would have to place the circuit in between the PS2 output and the RGB to the navi. I would think any random plastic box should work though (maybe a small project box from radio shack for ~$2)


Just so you all know, this could be done just as easily with an XBOX or Gamecube, in the same way. Dont know why I like using those colors, jeez....

elduderino

The fundamental issue that I see is that you have found a basic way to get a PS2 to emit an RGB signal, but you have not come up with a way to INTERRUPT the RGB signal from the Navi brain in the trunk to the LCD panel.

What you need is a monitor switch type device to switch between the various RGB signals. Perhaps one could be modded to have a front-mounted switch...

dorrington

to switch monitors you just need a relay and a switch mounted up front...i guess that's an extra, what, $6-7?

http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/show...ht=rgb+install

elduderino

You want to try switching RGB+sync with one relay? Good luck, pal.

As much as I am not a fan of vsokolov, a solid-state switching device is far better than relays in switching video in a car...

dorrington

well...on that link in worked for e_lectro without problems...both signals are RGB, is it not the same? I didn't even know that vsokolov's had a solid state swtiching device.
what do you think the problem would be?

elduderino

My bad... I was thinkin about a standard aftermarket relay - SPST - a 4PST is kind of like 4 relays in one case. If you told an installer to use a relay he would think you meant SPST... sorry.

I'd still prefer solid-state to relays... i've switched a lot of things with relays, bu I hate visual artifact video noise, and I would be worried about the relay contacts being a point of interference reception... but as part of the overall DIY nature of this project, it fits in just fine...

dorrington

I will probably use the relay first. If its not good enough I will seek some other alternative to switch between the two sources. Resolution is an issue, b/c as I said before this setup SHOULD (in theory) give the best possible resolution able to display on the navi screen, because the signal is never converted, whereas with an rgb converter, the signal is converted twice (RGB->composite->RGB; in most instances)

dorrington

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/

see the bit on relays...a VSA swtich could be set up using this cicuit...that would look niiiice....

elduderino

Not sure which circuit you mean, but make sure not to leave a relay coil eergized with ACC off...

dorrington

right...on a similar note...how do you think I should wire the playstation? Directly to the battery (with an in line fuse) with 8 or 10-gauge power/ground?. Is there a way I can wire the power into the the ACC so it turns on with the car like a remote turn on lead? I figure I might need another relay that is switched when the ACC is on. This would be nice so I don't have to remember to turn it off.

the circuit I was referring to was "Push Button Relay Toggle Circuit With One Transistor". I suppose power would have to come from ACC. If I figure it out with the power wire for the playstation, maybe I can just tap all the power leads off from that?

Thanks alot for you help eluderino; i am pretty new to this stuff, but I am trying to learn.

elduderino

The PlayStation technically should be powered by ACC... but you might end up with a problem when playing with the car off, and then starting the car, as ACC drops out during cranking, and you would lose your game.

You could use a timer circuit to turn off the PS2 power n seconds after ACC goes away, but it would have to reset if ACC comes back.

When I get home I'll look at the retained ACC power circuit in the TSX in the manual...

dorrington

Is there an ACC lead large enough to support the playstation's power needs? It only requires 12vdc @ 3 A, so it might actually be enough...

I was thinking if I hooked a relay up to the the ACC to switch it, I could run a power/ground to the battery and "create" an ACC for the playstation?? Running the wire back now would just give me a little flexibilty later I think...

dorrington

k...i got a another question now...

I was browsing the boards and came across this page:
http://acura-tsx.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10375

e_lectro posted that on the 20 pin connector, the sync signal is a composite sync signal...that would make all the LM1881 business unnecessary...and it would make a pretty straighforward install as far as the video signal goes.

dorrington

k...I need some help...

can somebody explain to me how the wires from the dvd nac unit in the trunk are routed to the LCD screen? What I mean is, is there a way to intercept the signal closer to the front seats (thats where I'll probly be mounting the PS2)? Will the wires be the same as the ones listed for all the RGB converter installs?. I think I'll use the ACC power from the factory amp per eld's suggestion.

Anybody got any other good ideas for where to mount the ps2? I thought about disassembling it, but thats just a bit too extreme for what I want to do...I think

dorrington

well I did everything and plugged it in...theres a signal there (I put in gran turismo 3 and I could see cars racing around and read some words) but the signal is shakey and hardly viewable. I am pretty sure its the sync, I probably messed up the LM1881 circuit along the way somewhere. I'll try to figure out exactly what the problem is later. The soldering on the chip all looks decent, I am thinking its the power supply to the chip I have (a 9v batt) thats somehow not powering it right....i dunno...

elduderino

Do you have an RGB monitor? You could compare it on that...

dorrington

no...that would make life nicer, huh?

I know its the sync signal though, because I pulled out that lead and the image stayed pretty much the same (lots of scanning/flickering). I'm not sure if its the soldering, if my wiring's wrong (the grounds get a little confusing), or if the LM1881 was damaged somehow (I did all the soldering at my desk, right by a computer screen, so maybe it was damaged by static). I've got an extra IC, so maybe Ill just start all over...

I grounded everything to the upper 'ceiling' in the trunk while I was testing it out...is that good enough for a temp ground? Maybe thats why its not working. Also, the LM1881 needs 5-12V power, so I used a 9V battery. Only the + side is connected though, and the IC is then grounded, is this right??

elduderino

The - terminal would be the reference gnd for the IC... it's not on.

dorrington

well theres two grounds on the IC (see: http://www.gamesx.com/misctech/lm1881.htm )...one for the Rset and one other ground (-9v?) . I've got both those tied together, along with the normal signal ground and then grounded in the trunk. I just meant that the 9v battery is only connected using the positive terminal...this wont work?

dorrington

eld...not sure what you meant...what do you suggest??

elduderino

In order to have a complete circuit, the electrons have to be able to make it from one terminal of the battery to the other. If the (-) terminal of the 9v battery is not common to the chassis, then the chassis is not "ground", relative to the 9V battery (+) terminal.

Bonus point - electrons flow from the (-) terminal to the (+... irrelvant, but it reminds us that without a complete circle, no electrons flow.

I will incommunicado for a week or so.. check when I get back...