When I do the EQ bypass... what do I do with the cut wires? Just cap them or does something special have to be done?

Thanks!

 

I believe you just don't cut them, you have to reattach them to a different wire (cut elsewhere) to complete the circuit. Do a search...it's your FRIEND.

 

I know they get reattached on the EQ side.. but what about the wires of the HU side? Do you just leave them hanging?

 

oh i'm not sure about that...but i read the instruction once...Iggy did it..he even have diagrams and everything...I dont' remember cuz I never thought of doing mine...but do a search, you'll find it.

 

I saw Iggy's posy and his diagram but it is not clear what he did with the other ends...

Matt

 

On the EQ side of the cut wires...

1. Tie the left EQ input to the left EQ output

2. Tie the right EQ input to the left EQ output

3. Tie the two common wires together.

NOTHING ends up tied to actual chassis ground during the EQ
bypass...

The inputs and outputs are balanced and floating from hard
ground. A lot of trial and error was done, to come up with the
above configuration. This method keeps the "sub" amp inputs
behaving correctly, and keeps the left and right signals from
picking up engine noise/whine/thumps, etc.

BE PREPARED TO LOSE AROUND 12DB OF SIGNAL AFTER
DOING THIS BYPASS! The sound will be much flatter and
correctly equalized for good speakers WITH tweeters...
However, the volume will drop. If you are adding an
aftermarket amp, this will be no problem, as you will have
sufficient voltage gain to make up for the signal loss. If you
are keeping the stock HU/AMP, then you might not be able to
turn things up as loud as you would like. I performed the
bypass in my TLS WITH THE STOCK headunit amp... I ended
up un-doing the bypass because of the loss of volume.

Others have tied the cut wires together in different ways,
but this was the only way that Iggy and I could both agree
made the sub amp behave correctly, and produce no weird
engine/electrical noise problems. It does seem to knock the
volume down a bit more than some other methods, though?

Good luck!
Southbound

 

Just to make sure that I was clear about the EQ bypass
wires...

You will cut 6 wires to perform the bypass...

1. Left Headunit out to EQ in (WHT)
2. Right Headunit out to EQ in (RED)
3. Left/Right Headunit out "common" wire between units
(BLK)

4. Left EQ out to Headunit in (ORN)
5. Right EQ out to Headunit in (BLU/GRN)
6. Left/Right EQ out "common" wire between units (ORN/BLU)

Connect them the same way on BOTH sides of the cuts.

FROM THE "BLACK" HEADUNIT CONNECTOR, You will end up
with 6 bypass jumper connections... 3 on the Headunit side,
and 3 on the EQ side.

HEADUNIT SIDE
Left Headunit OUT (WHT) to Left Headunit IN
(ORN)-(originally fed back from the EQ)

Right Headunit OUT (RED) to Right Headunit IN
(BLU/GRN)-(originally fed back from the EQ)

Left/Right Headunit "commons" tied together (BLK to
ORN/BLU)

EQ SIDE
Left EQ OUT (ORN)to Left EQ IN (WHT)
Right EQ OUT (BLU/GRN) to Right EQ IN (RED)
Left/Right "commons" tied together (ORN/BLU to BLK)

Hope this is now clear... if not, you shouldn't be trying the
mod... You don't want to smoke anything in the process. Be
sure to insulate all of these jumpers REALLY well.

Good Luck!
Southbound

 

Thanks Southbound... thats exactally what I needed to know.

Matt