bluedemon73

Can anyone tell me what is the differences? any pic of the two?

thx

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Enclosure I am guessing u are saying a sealed box. Sealed box is a small box. Bandpass is huge box that is ported wit plexy glass in the front of the box. They are neat lookin boxes but if tight on space the bandpass is not for u.

Austin519

dnd2984:
"Enclosure I am guessing u are saying a sealed box. Sealed box is a small box. Bandpass is huge box that is ported wit plexy glass in the front of the box. They are neat lookin boxes but if tight on space the bandpass is not for u."

Ha ha sorta Depending on how you do it.

Bluedemon73:
You have three basic models, the third model having a few submodels.

Sealed box:
-Just what it sounds like...a plain, simple box. Hole are cut in the box and the subs mounted and sealed in them.
-Smallest box size
-Usually the most acoustically "accurate" design (though not necessarily"
-The easiest to build
-The cheapest to build
-Doesn't look particularly interesting
-Cannot be ported into the cabin = trunk rattle
-The lowest SPL (sound pressure level) box

Ported box:
-A sealed box with holes cut into it to which tubes are inserted into the box. The ports act like virtual woofers and thus (among other factorS) lead to more SPL levels.
-Medium box size
-Tuned correctly, almost as accurate as sealed box (in some cases as accurate)
-Medium build difficulty
-Medium price range
-More things can be done with the box and ports to look more "professional"
-Cannot be ported into the cabin = trunk rattle
-Medium range SPL

Bandpass box:
-A combination of a sealed and a ported box "glued" together, with one half of the sub in the sealed side and one half in the ported side. Will pass a band of frequencies, usually from 20Hz-100Hz
-Largest box size (anywhere from 50% bigger to twice as large as sealed)
-Tuned correctly, as accurate as sealed box within it's pass band range
-Good door speakers usually needed to make up for the loss in midpass
-Highest price range
-The most professional looking box designs, with all types of plexiglass and other types of materials used...subs mounted backwards, sideways, etc.
-Can be ported into the cabin = NO trunk rattle
-Most efficient design for bass response
-Subs totally enclosed within box = less likely to be damaged

If I am ever going for SPL or SPL is important for me, I choose bandpass. If SQ is my biggest concern, or I need a lot of midbass, I choose ported. I almost never choose sealed unless space is an issue. The great thing about a bandpass box is that you can feed the port through the rear deck, thus totally eliminating bass wasted by being absorbed into the trunk, and any destructive waves. You also pass the sound directly into the cabin, thus reaching the loudest SPL and not worrying about trunk rattle at all.

There are also multiple types of bandpass systems...my preference is with 2 sealed/1 ported versions for ease of installation and design...though I think the 1 sealed two ported versions look better.

Try this site, which should give you a more in depth explanation:
http://www.diysubwoofers.org/

Austin519

bluedemon73

Austin,

You are the man. Thanks for the info. I have one additional question for you.

The Alumanpro BP10 sub/box

Is that a port box?
Would you recommend this box?

thx

Austin519

Bluedemon73:

That box is a bandpass box. That's actually what the BP stands for, BandPass. And if you like AlumaPro subs, they built that box specifically for it...so yeah it's a good box for the sub. However there are much more powerful ones...and of course getting the box built or better, building it yourself, is always cheaper than buying a prefab.

Austin519