Big 3 Upgrade Questions
07-22-2005, 12:19 PM
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Big 3 Upgrade Questions
I read about the "Big 3" upgrade and had a few questions...
The person who did the write-up I read said to leave the original OEM wiring in as well (after all electricity follows the path of least resistance). My question is, is this necessary? I'd ratehr replace the wires to give the engine bay a more clean look.
Also, When you upgrade the alternator to battery feed wire you should go through the fuse box to prevent battery explosion during a short. Must you go through the fuse box? Or can you just install an "in-line" fuse (don't know if thats the proper term) like the ones used on amp power lines near the battery?
Your answers are greatly appreciated!!
The person who did the write-up I read said to leave the original OEM wiring in as well (after all electricity follows the path of least resistance). My question is, is this necessary? I'd ratehr replace the wires to give the engine bay a more clean look.
Also, When you upgrade the alternator to battery feed wire you should go through the fuse box to prevent battery explosion during a short. Must you go through the fuse box? Or can you just install an "in-line" fuse (don't know if thats the proper term) like the ones used on amp power lines near the battery?
Your answers are greatly appreciated!!
07-22-2005, 01:37 PM
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1) I would lose the OEM wiring.
2) The fuse is to cover the ass of the writer. In all the years I've worked on cars I've never seen a fuse or fusible link on the battery/alternator lead. Besdies, you can't run that through the OEM Fuse Box. Routing the wire to a location where a fuse holder could be installed would actually subject the wire to more risk of damage/short than just going straight from the battery to the alternator.
3) No fuse. But since your fuse, if present, is there to protect against deadshorts, NOT against alternator output draw, I'd go like 200A. But that's just me...
2) The fuse is to cover the ass of the writer. In all the years I've worked on cars I've never seen a fuse or fusible link on the battery/alternator lead. Besdies, you can't run that through the OEM Fuse Box. Routing the wire to a location where a fuse holder could be installed would actually subject the wire to more risk of damage/short than just going straight from the battery to the alternator.
3) No fuse. But since your fuse, if present, is there to protect against deadshorts, NOT against alternator output draw, I'd go like 200A. But that's just me...
07-22-2005, 03:07 PM
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yea the write-up i saw was not done on a TSX and it seemed like their OEM wiring went through a fuse box when it went from the alternator to the battery but they said an external fuse could be used and place it close to the battery end to protect the battery.
they seemed to know what they were doing but in the end it didnt look to pretty
i just plan on replacing the OEM wires with 4awg wire...do you think that will suffice or do you think i would want to use 1/0awg...it just seems so bulky
they seemed to know what they were doing but in the end it didnt look to pretty
i just plan on replacing the OEM wires with 4awg wire...do you think that will suffice or do you think i would want to use 1/0awg...it just seems so bulky
07-22-2005, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by elduderino
What's in there now? I expect 4Ga would give you a big jum up... but make sure you use the same on the ground side...
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07-25-2005, 07:43 AM
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the write-up i saw was 1/0 awg...looked kinda crappy imo...there were these three big thick blue wires running across the engine bay...wasn't an amazingly clean look
07-28-2005, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by artmcd88
the write-up i saw was 1/0 awg...looked kinda crappy imo...there were these three big thick blue wires running across the engine bay...wasn't an amazingly clean look
07-29-2005, 09:31 PM
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How many watts you planning to run. I would suggest 1/0 anyways. It won't hurt and it will be inplace just for any possible future upgrades. No you don't need to keep the factory wire. The writer did that because it could only help the current flow and let's be honest, he wasn't going for the cleanest look.
07-31-2005, 09:03 PM
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yea I understand the whole path of least resistance thing...my system will probably run at about 1000 watts but peak is 1400
ill be sure to keep the "big three" at least the same if not a bigger gage than the power for my amps
ill be sure to keep the "big three" at least the same if not a bigger gage than the power for my amps
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