if your saying that each time you connect your power cable the fuse pops then at some point along your power wire is contacting ground. sometimes when running cable in tight places, it is possible the plastic cover can get torn and the wire is exposed and is in contact with a grounding point.

 

I was thinking the same.... Like I couldn't understand why it was doing what it was doing... Maybe I should try the oem ground spot... Thanks...

 

I have the wire ends covered(electrical tape)

 

needs to be

alt to pos batt
batt ground to engine
batt ground to frame. thats #1

#2 is how can you mess it up lulz. make sure its a 250 amp fuse on 0 gauge wire. i dont fue mine at all and never had a problem. but its a good thing you did

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wilIVPerpE

feel free to check out some of my vids. craziest ive personally done is a 151

 

I know man... I was thing the same thing... A 30 min project turned to be like 3 hrs... I tried to figure out what the heek was going on... Went through a 250a and a 300a... I thought be easy.. Got everything together all happy then plug everything back.. SPARK SPARK... The 300a caught on fire!!!! July4th under my hood... Hahah

 

try to make sure its all like i said. i never had a problem. and MAKE DAMN SURE YOUR STOCK WIRES ARE STILL CONNECTED!!!!! just sayin...

 

It's not the ends that could be your problem.
It's the wire covering, the insulating shell that when pulling it threw and around the metal body gets skinned to expose the bare wire.

Did you use a gromet going threw the fire wall ?
If your still having issues pull all your power wires and inspect for damage.

 

Didn't run anything threwq the firewall. I only have the amp power wire running all the way back and that's not giving me any problems. I'll try again after I get my car back form the shop(busted oil pan). So the alt positive is the one with the hard plastic in it am I correct?

 

It will be the biggest wire coming off the alt.

How are you running your power wire from the battery to the amp in the back ?
If your not going threw the firewall,Are you going under the car ?
I'm totally confused now.

 

its the big 3. not a damn wire should leave the engine bay. OP if you are having such a hassel that your car is throwing sparks i can show you every point i ran mine . one thing you NEED to look at is the exhaughst manifold cover. your terminal may be toughing it a hair and causing the melt down. its a tight fit between that and the alt. check it and get back with me and be ready to tear stuff out if that is not the problem because i personally want to know where every wire is ran and what it looks like being there. also if you didnt crimp your wires( i use a hammer for all my 2/0) that could cause a bad connection to the ground which in turn could throw sparks when you start..

 

Yea I made sure I used a hammer to hammer it down... The terminals ain't coming off... Hahah I'll check that manifold... And it be GREAT HELP if you can provide those pictures of the connection points...

 

mines a 1g but you will get the idea. ill go get them now.

 

battery pos.



batt ground to frame



ground to engine



where i ran it to the alt
















hope it helps.

 

I'm just thinking of solutions where he is grounding out.
And since he can not figure out how to run 3 basic wires I assume he would have a problem even running one power wire properly.
And antonio ,what the hell kind of mess is that you have ?
Surprised you were not in op position with all the ruckus.
Clean that stuff up.
Looks like a bunch of left over wire to complete your wiring.
comming off the alt to run along the radiator support,double
Grounding to the manifold tripple

 

I ran exactly how you ran your + wire... My engine ground I ground it to the bottoms of the engine where the oem one runs... And I ground the other one to the strut tower bolt with paint scrape off...

 

I just snap pics of my grounds for you in the dark.
I removed my alt to battery wire since I was starting to go lighter with the car and am not using my system right now.
But for that follow the oem one and do it in black so it does not look stupid.
Ground to support

looks like I need to reposition one of my end covers or get a new one I can see my wire.
Ground to front of trans

 

dude i can care less what it looks like. try again but when i compete things can go wrong and need replaced fast. no reason for me to make it a show car. shit happens lol. between that and it being an unfinished ride i dont care for how it looks..

 

just noticed thats where i placed it. deffanitly moving that in the morning.

i just found a bolt and had a show to hit up so i made it work :p

 

All those places ya showing me is where I'm connecting it.... Maybe it's shock tower ground....

 

any newz?

 

Not yet. Car going back to the body shop... Will update after I get it back... But thanks for your help..

 

between you and this forum the problem will be soolved. no one likes a car fire..

 

yea thats why i love this forum... very helpful people... even though sometimes some are pretty douche hahah

 

you get that anywhere lol.

 

car out yet?

 

Nope should get it by this weekend..

 

Not the most detailed picture.

I used KnuKonceptz 0 gauge wire for my big 3 and Streetwires 0 gauge for my amp kit.

For the big 3, I used a 150A inline ANL fuse and mount the fuse/holder to the side of the battery case (the little black casing around the battery) and ran that from my + terminal, to the fuse, on top of the ratiator and down to the + on the Alt)
I used a dermel to sand a bear surface where the OEM neg chassis ground was and gounded it there. And then grounded the other wire to the block, where the OEM ground was.

I soldered all connections and I am using a Kinetik 1800 battery. LOVE the batt but Im still getting some dimming on about 1600~ watts RMS. I plan to add a small Kinetik Batt in the trunk to get rid of dimming completely but I left my stock + from the batt to the alt too, could be a reason im still getting dimming.

 

i get dimming with an ap1500 and a big 92ah batt(rear) with 2/0 all in the car.... you really will never stop it unless you get hid lights. i dont drop below 13 though on the brightside. and also with our CL's there is an eld sensor you need to bypass so the alt charges full time . real easy to do.

 

Get HID lights? I have HIDs in all 4 housings (lows and fogs). I meant dimming as in my dome lights and gauge clusters or tail lights when breaking.

I know that I dont expect to get rid of ALL dimming, just as I expect not to get rid of ALLL the rattling. But I want the second batt to keep me above 13 at all times. I drop to about 12.7 with lights on and Bass HITTING!

Does the TL have this ELD sensor?? Hmm interesting...can you explain more?

 

usually hid lights will store power and keep them from dimming idk how they work tbh

the eld sensor shuts the alt off while driving to save gas. to find out if you have one look for this


that green/red wire and the solid black one need to be connected with a 820 ohm resistor and left unplugged. i charge at 14.4 cold and 14 hot now. and fans turn on then i lose like .5v and lights are .2v....

here is my build log if you want a peek at what i run. the amp is only temp

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-a...l-rebuild.html



yeah i know my car is dirty. its made to get loud not stay show car lulz.


if you need help or have questions go ahead and ask. if i know it i will help. but i wont lie and say i know 100% of everything

 

Oh no I AM VERYYYY confident in my skills and knowledge about audio.

Thank for you the knowledge on this ELD sensor. Ill take a look under my hood. This harness is located in your FUSE box under the hood correct?

 

yes sir

 

And HIDs ONLYYY use more power at start up but while they are on they consume less power than Halogens. My HIDs DO NOT dim just any other bulb hahah.
And my Lowbeam HIDs are aftermarket CANBUS Ballasts, meaning they have capatitors inside the ballast to store energy. But thats besides the point.

Yeah check mine out too. tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=840299