Big 3??
10-08-2008, 05:07 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Big 3??
I've been wanting to do the big 3 ever since I realized that my 2.0 farad cap isnt enough for my 1000 watt amp at loud volumes (lights dim).
Just out of curiosity, How many of you guys have done the big 3 for your audio system? Has it made a noticeable difference? Please provide pics if you have. Just want to get an idea on how I should run the wire from the alt to the batt. Thanks
Just out of curiosity, How many of you guys have done the big 3 for your audio system? Has it made a noticeable difference? Please provide pics if you have. Just want to get an idea on how I should run the wire from the alt to the batt. Thanks
10-08-2008, 11:30 AM
#2
i have.. running 1600ish rms to the subs, 500ish rms to the speakers.. with just a bettery upgrade and big 3, no dimming
cap is a waste of money imo..
as for running the wire, just run it however you can that will make it look stealthy (thats if u're anal about seeing the wire), and away from anything that may become hot
cap is a waste of money imo..
as for running the wire, just run it however you can that will make it look stealthy (thats if u're anal about seeing the wire), and away from anything that may become hot
10-08-2008, 11:58 AM
#3
i have.. running 1600ish rms to the subs, 500ish rms to the speakers.. with just a bettery upgrade and big 3, no dimming
cap is a waste of money imo..
as for running the wire, just run it however you can that will make it look stealthy (thats if u're anal about seeing the wire), and away from anything that may become hot
cap is a waste of money imo..
as for running the wire, just run it however you can that will make it look stealthy (thats if u're anal about seeing the wire), and away from anything that may become hot
I could not have said it better myself.
10-08-2008, 03:32 PM
#4
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What kind of battery are you running?
10-08-2008, 05:33 PM
#5
Whats the big 3? I'm guessing battery, alternator, ???
My boss also told me something people forget is to upgrade the ground wire going from the negative battery post to the chassis. Is that going to help at all? I thought it would since usually that wire is usually pretty small and looks corroded like hell.
My boss also told me something people forget is to upgrade the ground wire going from the negative battery post to the chassis. Is that going to help at all? I thought it would since usually that wire is usually pretty small and looks corroded like hell.
10-09-2008, 08:52 AM
#7
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If u already have the yellow top, def do the big 3. I plan to do mine this winter, I have all the wires sitting in my garage
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10-09-2008, 01:07 PM
#9
depends how big your engine bay is, and how you want to run your wires?
Take some string and run it, cut it, measure it, and add an extra foot or so, since the wire isn't as flexible as the string.
You might want to consider kicker hyperflex and/or knukonceptz kollosus fleks for your choice of wiring.. High strand count + flexible + looks good
Take some string and run it, cut it, measure it, and add an extra foot or so, since the wire isn't as flexible as the string.
You might want to consider kicker hyperflex and/or knukonceptz kollosus fleks for your choice of wiring.. High strand count + flexible + looks good
10-09-2008, 02:32 PM
#10
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1 guage is a bit ridiculous, you don't need more than 4 guage, I used a measuring tape to figure out how long I needed, and bought extra 
10-09-2008, 09:52 PM
#13
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my stock wires are like 8 guage
10-10-2008, 11:24 PM
#15
Pro
Thread Starter
Im running an alpine MRP-M1000 and MRP-350. It only dims if I have it at loud vols and it dims even more if I have the A/C on but its not super bad. The the 1000 watt amp should be efficient, its a mono class D amp.
10-11-2008, 05:27 AM
#16
sorry I'm learning so bear with me, do you add another ground from the batt. - to the chassis, or upgrade to a thicker gauge than stock? Then upgrade the alt + to batt + wire? and then add another ground for the alternator? just wanna be sure, thanks
10-13-2008, 02:47 AM
#20
anyone? google turns up results that are a bit vague for me, sorry.
10-14-2008, 12:53 AM
#23
Pro
Thread Starter
Although this is not necessary it is recommended. A fuse is only needed for the ALT to (+) Batt. in the case that the wire becomes loose and falls off.
10-18-2008, 08:58 PM
#25
this is what i did, i had some 0ga lying around, so i used that as well as some 4ga.
0ga from alt to chasis
0ga from battery to eng block
0ga from battery to chasis
4ga from throttle to battery
4ga from manifold to battery
i went a bit over board, but i dont have dimming and i did notice my car to have better starting up, better throttle response, and all around better elctrical flow.
if you still have dimming than unfortunately you may have to up the alt. or deal with it.
0ga from alt to chasis
0ga from battery to eng block
0ga from battery to chasis
4ga from throttle to battery
4ga from manifold to battery
i went a bit over board, but i dont have dimming and i did notice my car to have better starting up, better throttle response, and all around better elctrical flow.
if you still have dimming than unfortunately you may have to up the alt. or deal with it.
10-18-2008, 09:12 PM
#26
this is what i did, i had some 0ga lying around, so i used that as well as some 4ga.
0ga from alt to chasis
0ga from battery to eng block
0ga from battery to chasis
4ga from throttle to battery
4ga from manifold to battery
i went a bit over board, but i dont have dimming and i did notice my car to have better starting up, better throttle response, and all around better elctrical flow.
if you still have dimming than unfortunately you may have to up the alt. or deal with it.
0ga from alt to chasis
0ga from battery to eng block
0ga from battery to chasis
4ga from throttle to battery
4ga from manifold to battery
i went a bit over board, but i dont have dimming and i did notice my car to have better starting up, better throttle response, and all around better elctrical flow.
if you still have dimming than unfortunately you may have to up the alt. or deal with it.
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