I am putting a Rockford Fosgate P8002 2400watt peak 800x1 @4ohm, 400 x2 @2ohm 200x2 @4ohm, with 2 Alpine SWR-1241D, the R series 12" sub's.

Im not sure how i want to wire them, i was thinking of getting best buy to do the installation for 100- 150 can bux.

Any comments ? (got a good price on the subs and the amp on eBay)

Jeremy

 

what about the mids and highs???

 

Um, you want Best Buy to touch your car?

I'd say your bass will overpower the rest of the system, so I would hate it personally.

 

His bass won't overpower the rest of the system. You may want to atleast think about getting a decent frontstage though.

The subs are 300 RMS and 1000 watts max. From what I heard the type-R's sound pretty good and clean. Your gonna want to wire it as a 4 ohm load. Bridge the amp 800x1 @ 4 ohms so each is getting 400W. Wire the two 4 ohm DVC's like so:





Make sure you get or build the recommended enclosure and if it's ported make sure you tune it correctly.

 

You want him to put 800W to two 12" subs and you don't think it will outrun the rest of the system? Only if you turn the amp gain down and squander power.

And yeah, use the right box. Always crucial for small sealed woofs.

Hey, lightbeing, how should he tune that vented box?

 

I agree with you on the bass overpowering the stock "system"...but the amp gain isnt a "power adjuster", so it wont regulate the amps output power, only the amps sensitivity to the input voltage from your headunit

 

depends on what he has for his speakers really, We don't even know if they are stock or not. 800 watts isn't all that much power going into those 2 subs. I'm sure he will need to balance everything out but overall I do not feel that those subs will be too much bass. Those are nice clean sounding subs.


And the tuning will depending on the cuft of the enclosure, usually want to keep it in the 30-35 hz range.

 

OK, guys, two things:

1) When you turn the input gain down on the amp, you do not reduce its total potential power, true - but you DO reduce the power it puts out with a given input signal. So if you turn it down to match levels, you limit how much power you can get out of it using that signal source, right? Q.E.D.

2) Tuning of a ported box depends on the volume, (don't forget driver and port disp.) but even more on the port. How many installers know how to verify porting freq? Tune a ported box? Have the gear to do so? BTW, lots of times a tuning freq of 40 or even 45 is optimal, rather than picking 30 or 35, which creates its own side effects. The porting power unloading doesn't happen until 1/2 octave below the tuning frequency. So for 45, you lose power handling at 34... and for 40, you lose power handling at 30. How often does anything come through down there? And do you have a subsonic that makes it irrelevant?

800 watts isn't much power, and "nice, clean" sounding subs don't overpower stock speakers... looks like we'll agree to disagree on this one.

 

how come everyone thinks the gain control is some kind of volume control?

 

Hey, sorry, Yea i still have the craptacular Bose speakers from the '03 TL-S BTW.

I was thinking of upgrading the speakers in the doors a little later, but probly go with the cerwin 6 1/2" V-MAg speakers, they hit down to 25 Hz, lol

yea, and thanks for all the comments guys, yea i might just get best buy to wire the amp to the car, i dont really like taking apart the interior, but i did look at a cetain sticky about dismantleing it, i would just feel safer with someone else doing it, i met one guy and he said he had worked on TL's of my year before.

Thanks, Jeremy

 

If you find someone who has worked on TL's before then you should be ok. Thats what I did. I looked around till I found a shop who has - the owner actually has a '03 TLS, so they knew what they were doing. good luck with everything.

 

Yea, i am just a tad worried about the amp actually putting out oo much power, seeing as these are 300rms subs and this amp puts out 800 (400x2), i will see what best buy thinks and of course back it up with a good second opinion

Jeremy

 

You won't have a problem pushing 400 watts into each Type R. They can hadle much more than that while still sounding clean and last you a long time. Good luck with the install.

 

Sweeet, thanx for the info, i heard they were good from peeps revies on different sites, good to hear it from a SENSIBLE mind (ACURA OWNER)

:P

Thanx Guys, Jeremy

 

Also, has anyone had any experience with those Cerwin V-Mag series speakers?
Do you know if they are too deep to fit in the door and still have room for the window?

These are the only nice 6 1/2" car door speakers that hit lower than 35Hz
I couldnt believe Vega was able to get a 6" speaker down to 25Hz, lol

Thanks, Jeremy

 

Not sure what spec you're looking at, but you need to know two things about that point:

1) No door speaker plays down to 35 Hz meaningfully. Teach a baby not to cry - it's just impossible...

2) Specs are used to lie to you sometimes. Was there a stated deviation? A freq response spec (such as 35k-35 Hz) is actually meaningless without a +/- deviation (such as -10dB). Audio standards say that for speakers, you should look at the -3dB deviation. I will guarantee that that 6" in a car will be measured to play "flat" down to about 80 Hz at -3dB, maybe.

Having helped write those specs and seen what the marketing department does, I have to warn you - believing in 90dB 1w/1m efficient 6" speaker, or believin in 128dB sirens, or 200 watt door speakers - those are all lies or at best misleading statements.

You can get great front midbass by going with a good speaker (CV usually doesn't sound good - take it from a former CV rep), but worry more about 75-150 Hz and less about35, IMO.

 

K cool man, thanks for the advice, and the knowledge

Jeremy