AGPSuperstaR

alright, here's the deal. im about to do my own custom audio installation but im a newbie at this...ahhaha...im getting the audiobahn a2300hcq amp to power the audiobahn 1208Q woofers, for the highs, im getting MBQ PSD216 for the front and probably the Polk DX6 in the back. A Coustic amp will push my highs. alright, i need to know a few things:

1.) do you think im going to need a cap and battery?, or do just need an alternator (prob 160 amp) and some caps? im scared that my battery will drain a lot because of amps.

2.) i see that a lot of custom set-ups have like fuses and terminals and stuff like that but i don't know what they are for. what do i need for my install to make it sound good?

3.) is it possible that i use one 2 gauge power wire from the battery to some type of link that will split power wires into the two amps?

Please help me out because i need some help in my installation. All the help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, AGP

DniCeE TL

Change you're Speakers POLK SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Southbound

AGP,
Could you please provide more data regarding the power output of your subwoofer amp and the rating of the subwoofers. Do the same thing for the door speaker amp and MB quarts speakers. Obviously we all know a lot about the DX6s.

Some people may know the specs of your equipment from the top of their heads... but it would help a lot of us to help you if you still quoted them.

Since you ARE adding ALL new amps, then you ARE open to a LOT more speaker choices. You are definitely in for a LOT of work here, if you are truly new to the process. Be prepared to bypass the stock EQ before adding the extra amps and also be prepared to do some custom spacer and door panel work if you choose the speaker of personal choice rather than the speaker that readily fits and sounds decent. Also the custom wiring and acoustic sound dampening will be a BIG part of your project.

WHATEVER YOU DO... Ask around and learn about properly fusing your new power wire(s)!!! If you avoid this step, you could burn your car up with one pinched wire!!! FUSE IT AS CLOSE TO THE BATTERY AS POSSIBLE!

Also, while the above post told you to change your speakers... they didn't give you much help with another recommendation... NOT MUCH HELP THERE! So do some evaluations by yourself. I personally feel that the Polks would sound just fine especially as rear fill. (Unless you're hitting them with more than 100watts) For the fronts... you do have a lot more options with another amp pushing them. AS LONG AS MONEY IS NO OBJECT AND YOU DON'T MIND A LOT OF WORK.

You should also tell us what kind of price range you are trying to hold the entire project to (if any)... that would also allow a lot of other nice people here to give you REAL advice. While I have been involved with a lot of relatively easy and inexpensive speaker replacement mods... I'm not that current with today's hot aftermarket amps, and TOP OF THE LINE speakers... However, you have come to the right place. The guys here are great! Many have done as you are advocating... Pitch the ENTIRE Bose system and start from scratch! I'm sure that there are a lot of impressive systems out there by members of this board...

Good Luck!
Southbound

shawhite

well AGPSuperstar i would have to agree with everything that southbound stated above but i will give you a couple of my suggestions as well.... for the speakers i would probably go with jl audio all the way around maybe jl xr componets in the front and xr coxial in the rear.... as for the cap question... yes you will deffinately need a cap or two but i dont think a new alternator or battery is needed... as for the 2gauge wire... yes you can run 1 2 gauge wire to the back and then run it thru a distribution block to sperate it as needed (ie 2 4 gauge.... etc)..... but like southbound mentions earlier i believe it would be a wise idea to make sure you have a fuse as close as possible to the battery....

AGPSuperstaR

these are the specs on the system...
Highs:
MB Quart PSD 216
Specs:
Impedance: 4 Ohms
Frequency Response: 38-32k
Sensitivity: 87 dB
Power Range: 60-130 watts
Crossover Freq: 2500Hz Hz

Woofer Amp:
Audiobahn a2300HCQ
A2300HCQ MASSIVE AMPS

300 watts x 2 @ 4 ohms stereo
600 watts x 2 @ 2 ohms stereo
1200 watts x 2 @ 1 ohms stereo
2400 watts x 1 @ 1 ohms mono

(2) 12" Audiobahn 1208Q woofers
12" 1500 WATTS RMS POWER AUDIOBAHN SUBWOOFER
FLAME COMPRESSION SUBWOOFEr
MASSIVE 280 OZ DOUBLE STACKED MAGNETS
DUAL 2 OHM VOICE COIL
CHROME, CHROME AND MORE CHROME
2" PHAT FOAM SURROUND
STAMPED BALANCED ALUMINUM CONE
EFFICIENCE IS 91DB
3" 4 LAYER ASV VOICE COIL
1/4 OHM OPERATION

High Amp:
Coustic 480QE
Remote Subwoofer Level Control Ready ; Dimensions: 11 (W) x 2-3/8 (H) x 14-3/8 (L) Rated Power@ 14.4V (0.1%THD) 4 Ohm Stereo 4 x 60
Watts ; Rated Power @ 14.4V (0. 1 % THD) 2 Ohm Stereo 4 x 120 Watts ; Rated Power@ 14.4V (0.2% THD) 4 Ohm Mono 2 x 240 Watts

Those are the speakers that i'm using. Do you guys need any more information? Please tell me what else do i need for the whole system. Thanks guys

AGPSuperstaR

oh yea, i dont know what to use for the rear coaxials yet so any input on that would also be appreciated...thanks...AGP

AGPSuperstaR

by the way, im not going to use the stock HU, im going to customize a Pioneer DVH-P7000, which is a DVD receiver into the arm rest. that's going to power the tv's in the visor and a 13" flip-down. AGP

shawhite

hold up let me make sure i am reading this right..... you are not using the stock head unit but you are leaving it in ther car.... why????? if you are going to custom mount the receiver into the armrest then why not remove the stock radio and put in a tv or something or even put the aftermarket radio where the stock one goes...

AGPSuperstaR

oh my bad...im going to custom mount a 7" screen in that location...

AGPSuperstaR

anyone??