ATTN : SilverKnight or other audio gurus

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Old 02-03-2002, 12:04 PM
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ATTN : SilverKnight or other audio gurus

"Skyline" SAN FRANCISCO CD70 RECEIVER

Innovation 2001 Design & Engineering Showcase Honoree


KEY FEATURES

STANDARD FEATURES
180W Hi-Power KeyCard™ CD DigiCeiver™ with CD Changer Control


45 Watts (Max.) x 4-Ch
4-Ch Low Impedance Preamp Output @ 5V w/Sub Output
DSA Digital Sound Adjustment / Automatic Self Adjusting EQ
DNC Dynamic Noise Covering / Combats Long Duration Ambient Noise
Calibrated Microphone Included
Internal Pink Noise Generator for Sound Measurements
User Adjustable 7-Band Digital EQ with 3 Memory Banks
Selectable EQ Presets for Different Music Types
DigiCeiver Codem D All-Digital Tuner including RDS & Sharx™ Adaptive IF Switching
Improved Multicolor Dot Matrix Display with Animation & 2-Tone Faceplate
Selectable European & USA Tuning Modes
24 FM / 12 AM Presets Including 6 FM / 6 AM Travel Store Presets
2-Tone DIN Flip Panel Faceplate with Stealth Type KeyCard Holder
Softkey Design Controls Improve Ease of Use
RDS Radio Data System with Station Call Letter Display
Station Naming, Radio Text & Preset List
Digitally Processed AM Interference Suppression
12/24 Hour Clock
Blaupunkt's Exclusive BP-1 CD Deck with 3-Beam Holographic Laser Pickup & 1-Bit/32X Oversampling Digital Filter
DMS plus CD Naming, CD List, Scan, Mix, Repeat, Peak Level Meters & Last Position Memory
Menu Options including: 6-loudness Levels, Adj. Scan Scan Time, 3 Hi-Cut Levels,
Loc/ DX Level Selection, STM, Clock, & Aux-In for MP3 / MD / DVD
High-Pass and Low-Pass with Selectable Slopes
Selectable Outboard Amplifier Turn-On Delay
Subwoofer Output with selectable freq @ 80/100 Hz
Includes Handheld RC 10H Infrared Remote - Thummer III or RC09 (both optional)
Defeatable Internal Amplifier
Controls Optional CDC A08 & IDC A09 CD Changers

San Francisco CD70 STEP UP FEATURES
180W High-Power KeyCard™ CD DigiCeiver™ with CD Changer Control & Remote
Includes all the benefits of the Hamburg CD70 plus:


DSA Digital Sound Adjustment / Automatic Self-Adjusting EQ
DNC Dynamic Noise Covering / Combats Long-Duration Ambient Noise
Automatic Pink-Noise Generator for Sound Measurements
Calibrated Microphone Included
Improved Multicolor Dot Matrix Display with Animation & 2-Tone Faceplate
User Adjustable 7-Band Digital EQ with 3-Memory Banks
Selectable EQ Presets for Different Music Types
Handheld RC 10H Infrared Remote Included
36 Station Presets
Station Naming
Radio Text
Preset List & CD List
5-Volt Level Preamp Output
Subwoofer Output with Selectable Freqs @ 80/100 Hz
High-Pass and Low-Pass with Selectable Slopes
Longer Duration Amp Turn-On Delays for Upgrade Flexibility (0 to 8 seconds)
Defeatable Internal Amplifier via Menu

[QUOTE]
So I could keep the stock speakers and amp, and just put this in and still maintain all of the above features? What aabout the stock steering wheel audio controls? Sorry, I am a novice about car audio.
Old 02-03-2002, 12:31 PM
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Due to lack of info on stock amp and speakers, I cannot say anything for sure. I could say "YES" but keep in mind that you will not get any sound quality or volumn improvement. Here are the reasons.
Since Bose wrote to Ronnie738 saying the stock amp put out 25w per channel (assumed Max or Peak output), besides, I really doubt the amp is capable of receiving high voltage input. Therefore, It would not do you any good if you keep the stock amp. About stock speakers, from what I saw (made of papercone) and hear (weird impedance), I dont see the point of keeping them.

That were the reason why I said "you are heading in the wrong direction on a one-way street." since most ppl replace stock amp+speakers and keep the stock HU.

Hope it helps. Good luck.
Old 02-05-2002, 01:27 PM
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Originally posted by SilverKnight
Due to lack of info on stock amp and speakers, I cannot say anything for sure. I could say "YES" but keep in mind that you will not get any sound quality or volumn improvement. Here are the reasons.
Since Bose wrote to Ronnie738 saying the stock amp put out 25w per channel (assumed Max or Peak output), besides, I really doubt the amp is capable of receiving high voltage input. Therefore, It would not do you any good if you keep the stock amp. About stock speakers, from what I saw (made of papercone) and hear (weird impedance), I dont see the point of keeping them.

That were the reason why I said "you are heading in the wrong direction on a one-way street." since most ppl replace stock amp+speakers and keep the stock HU.

Hope it helps. Good luck.

What he said!

I have the stock HU and ditched the speakers and amp...and now its sweet!
Old 02-05-2002, 02:26 PM
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Originally posted by SilverKnight
Due to lack of info on stock amp and speakers, I cannot say anything for sure. I could say "YES" but keep in mind that you will not get any sound quality or volumn improvement. Here are the reasons.
Since Bose wrote to Ronnie738 saying the stock amp put out 25w per channel (assumed Max or Peak output), besides, I really doubt the amp is capable of receiving high voltage input. Therefore, It would not do you any good if you keep the stock amp. About stock speakers, from what I saw (made of papercone) and hear (weird impedance), I dont see the point of keeping them.

That were the reason why I said "you are heading in the wrong direction on a one-way street." since most ppl replace stock amp+speakers and keep the stock HU.

Hope it helps. Good luck.
Being the car audio prodigy that I am, I would persume to say that the Bose amp more than likely puts out 25 watts per channel RMS, not peak or max. If your system is similar to they system in my Legend then I am almost 99% certain. But yes they are made of papercone, and yes they have, not necessary weird, but low impedances. But they Bose system is a very high quality system. They components sets they use are usally the weakest part of the system. The amps and head units are top of the line. Your amp will accept high level inputs. Thats how its is run from your headunit. Your head unit acts as a pre-amp for the main bose amp, which is usally hidden behind the rear passenger seat. The way the system is ran actually makes it very convenient to do upgrades. But no stereo shop that knows what they the are doing will let you know that. But having worked on my own personally, I'm speaking from experience. I would be more than happy to make some suggestions that I'm positive would help you to achieve the type of sound that you want.

Allerick B.
Old 02-05-2002, 05:23 PM
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Originally posted by CL_Terminator


Being the car audio prodigy that I am, I would persume to say that the Bose amp more than likely puts out 25 watts per channel RMS, not peak or max. If your system is similar to they system in my Legend then I am almost 99% certain. But yes they are made of papercone, and yes they have, not necessary weird, but low impedances. But they Bose system is a very high quality system. They components sets they use are usally the weakest part of the system. The amps and head units are top of the line. Your amp will accept high level inputs. Thats how its is run from your headunit. Your head unit acts as a pre-amp for the main bose amp, which is usally hidden behind the rear passenger seat. The way the system is ran actually makes it very convenient to do upgrades. But no stereo shop that knows what they the are doing will let you know that. But having worked on my own personally, I'm speaking from experience. I would be more than happy to make some suggestions that I'm positive would help you to achieve the type of sound that you want.

Allerick B.
From what you post, I'm pretty sure you are not familiar with the system in our CLs. The head unit is not Bose's but rather Pioneer's. I know this because I saw the label on the unit itself. With all the BS from Bose (you can verify it on their website FAQs page), I doubt the number they gave one of our members is RMS. I dont know what you got in your Legend nor can I argue with you about that system but I know for sure what are in my CL and how "good" they are.

EDIT: It seems to me that you are a BOSE employee or a BOSE fan. Well, I'll post the stock amp pic. I hope you can tell that worthless 1lb piece of junk BLOSE amp puts out 25w x 4 rms
Old 02-06-2002, 01:38 AM
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Bose.

I just got my '99 Cl and I love the bose system. I've had alot of cars and this system is by far better than any i've had in the past. Also, I highly doubt bose would put an amp that peaks at 25w.

And the size of an amp really doesn't matter how many watts it can put out. It does in a way, but it depends on how your running it. I used to have an autotek stealth xs-1500.1 which isn't a very big amp, but it did 1500w (bench tested at 2001w), people were really suprised when I told them how many watts I was pushing out of a small sized amp.

Shay
Old 02-06-2002, 02:51 AM
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I've tried many things with my stereo and I can tell you that our 25Wx4 RMS or peak amp is not very high quality. Sure, small amps can put out a lot of power, but what about weight? This thing weights like 2lbs and most of it is probably the metal casing! Sure, the HU is a fat deck w/ indash 6, but to get some good sounding tunes, you gotta gut it all out. IMHO of course.
Old 02-06-2002, 07:49 AM
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Originally posted by CL_Terminator

Your amp will accept high level inputs. Thats how its is run from your headunit. Your head unit acts as a pre-amp for the main bose amp, which is usally hidden behind the rear passenger seat.
The headunit puts out 500 mV. Not sure how many watts. But, that is low level. Run high level inputs to the stock amp and it won't last very long.

I don't think anyone has run low level inputs from an aftermarket head unit to the stock amp. But, someone has to be first.

The head unit would be the last thing I would replace on my system. Replace the amp and speakers first.

BTW: that head unit looks nice!
Old 02-06-2002, 12:15 PM
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Originally posted by ronnie0738
I've tried many things with my stereo and I can tell you that our 25Wx4 RMS or peak amp is not very high quality. Sure, small amps can put out a lot of power, but what about weight? This thing weights like 2lbs and most of it is probably the metal casing! Sure, the HU is a fat deck w/ indash 6, but to get some good sounding tunes, you gotta gut it all out. IMHO of course.
I agree with you. Size does not 100% (yet an important factor) contribute to the output power but weight does. There is no way (at least for now) you can get a high performance amp that is light and small.
Old 02-06-2002, 04:27 PM
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Originally posted by Bluto


The headunit puts out 500 mV. Not sure how many watts. But, that is low level. Run high level inputs to the stock amp and it won't last very long.

I don't think anyone has run low level inputs from an aftermarket head unit to the stock amp. But, someone has to be first.

The head unit would be the last thing I would replace on my system. Replace the amp and speakers first.

BTW: that head unit looks nice!
I don't have an aftermarket head unit, but I did hook an a-b switch into the input on the factory amp and have an AudioControl 4.1 installed on one of the channels with a PS2 hooked to it. The 4.1 puts out a 13v signal.

I have had this hooked up for 2 months, use it all the time, and have no problems whatsoever. Sound couldn't be cleaner.
Old 02-06-2002, 04:51 PM
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Originally posted by SilverKnight


From what you post, I'm pretty sure you are not familiar with the system in our CLs. The head unit is not Bose's but rather Pioneer's. I know this because I saw the label on the unit itself. With all the BS from Bose (you can verify it on their website FAQs page), I doubt the number they gave one of our members is RMS. I dont know what you got in your Legend nor can I argue with you about that system but I know for sure what are in my CL and how "good" they are.

EDIT: It seems to me that you are a BOSE employee or a BOSE fan. Well, I'll post the stock amp pic. I hope you can tell that worthless 1lb piece of junk BLOSE amp puts out 25w x 4 rms
Never did I say that the head unit was Bose, I said it was high quality. And yes I am a Bose fan, but no, I am not an employee. I don't know how much you know about car amplifiers and things as such. But my bose amp is more than capable of putting out 25 watts RMS. I can't tell you about your system, but it can't be too much different from mine. Your Bose amp (if its like mine) is composed of 4 seperate smaller amps. Your amp is wired from the head unit using conventional wires, not patch cords. From there the amps sent the amplified signal to the respectable components. If is a very high quality setup, and it is capable of producing 25 Watts RMS. Your system consist of the Head unit (pre amp) the amplifier (which is actually 4 small dedicated amps )and your 8-speakers, actually 9 for the CL, I think. Size and weight does not determine the quality of your amplifier. Bose has a very high reputation, and wouldn't put their name on a sh*tty system. A lot of thought has gone into the system, regardless of what you might think of it.

Allerick B.
Old 02-06-2002, 04:54 PM
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Re: Bose.

Originally posted by Shay
I just got my '99 Cl and I love the bose system. I've had alot of cars and this system is by far better than any i've had in the past. Also, I highly doubt bose would put an amp that peaks at 25w.

And the size of an amp really doesn't matter how many watts it can put out. It does in a way, but it depends on how your running it. I used to have an autotek stealth xs-1500.1 which isn't a very big amp, but it did 1500w (bench tested at 2001w), people were really suprised when I told them how many watts I was pushing out of a small sized amp.

Shay
He's right SilverKnight. Its all about how its wired and ran. Not the size or weight.
Old 02-06-2002, 05:05 PM
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Originally posted by Bluto


The headunit puts out 500 mV. Not sure how many watts. But, that is low level. Run high level inputs to the stock amp and it won't last very long.

I don't think anyone has run low level inputs from an aftermarket head unit to the stock amp. But, someone has to be first.

The head unit would be the last thing I would replace on my system. Replace the amp and speakers first.

BTW: that head unit looks nice!
The output from the head unit is low level. But a lot of people confuse low level with patchcords. The level is the voltage at which the signal is being passed along between the head unit and amps. 500mV is low and it can't be converted directly into watts. But this low level is sent via conventional wires not patch cords. The higher the voltage output, the louder the amp is capable of playing. Yes you could sent a Higher level input to the factory amp. And it would play louder, but its point of Harmonic distortion would be lower. So it balances itself out.
Old 02-06-2002, 05:11 PM
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Originally posted by SilverKnight


I agree with you. Size does not 100% (yet an important factor) contribute to the output power but weight does. There is no way (at least for now) you can get a high performance amp that is light and small.
I disagree with you. 90% of the weight is most amplifiers is heatsink. The actually components are light weights. What exactly to you consider to be "high performance?" 'Cause high performance doesn't not necessary mean high power. High performances stereos are based more of thier quality of sound and components rather than the rated output of the amplifier.

Allerick B.
Old 02-06-2002, 08:50 PM
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Originally posted by CL_Terminator


I disagree with you. 90% of the weight is most amplifiers is heatsink. The actually components are light weights. What exactly to you consider to be "high performance?" 'Cause high performance doesn't not necessary mean high power. High performances stereos are based more of thier quality of sound and components rather than the rated output of the amplifier.

Allerick B.
Exactly, the heat sink contributes most of the amp's weight. the more power an amp puts out, the more heat is generated => bigger heat sink => more weight. Therefore, I dont see how a 1lb amp would put out 25w x 4 rms.
I dont know about you, but if I hear someone says "performance" car, I would think of speed, how fast the car is not how luxury it is. If I talk about "high performance" amps, then I talk about output power not sound quality. I believe we were talking about the output wattage of the Bose amp, right? :P
Old 02-06-2002, 09:49 PM
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FYI, i'm not trying to prove my point by lying or anything, but my autotek was made to be flush mounted, so it had a huge heat sink. It was all chrome but it still didn't have much weight behind it.

Gosh I miss that amp.
Old 02-07-2002, 11:38 PM
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Originally posted by SilverKnight


Exactly, the heat sink contributes most of the amp's weight. the more power an amp puts out, the more heat is generated => bigger heat sink => more weight. Therefore, I dont see how a 1lb amp would put out 25w x 4 rms.
I dont know about you, but if I hear someone says "performance" car, I would think of speed, how fast the car is not how luxury it is. If I talk about "high performance" amps, then I talk about output power not sound quality. I believe we were talking about the output wattage of the Bose amp, right? :P
Yes, when you hear "performance car" you think of how fast it is and how its been modified, blah blah blah. When you hear "performance stereo," your looking at bottom line the quality of the sound. No necessary the ouput of the amp. Rockwood can build at 500 Watt amp just like anyone else, but its not considered a performance amp. Its a knock-off. When it comes to Performace stereos. Its the quality that counts. If you have the quality, then the sound well quality by default. High power does not mean high performance. Just like High Horsepower doesn't mean that is any faster than some car with less power. Yes your CL-S does have more power than my Legend. But with my tranny My car if faster. There is more to take into account than just the Watts or Horsepower.

Allerick B.
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