zax123

Hi guys,

So I've assembled all the pieces for my sound system conversion in my TL. Here are the pieces, then I'll ask the question:

Amps:
1 x JL Audio 300/4 - 4 channel 75W/channel amp
1 x JL Audio e4300 - 4 channel 45W/channel amp
1 x Boston Acoustics GT22 - 2 channel amp (bridges to 1 channel @400W)

Speakers:
2 x Boston Acoustics Z6 6.5" components (for front channels)
2 x Boston Acoustics Pro60 6.5" components (for real channels)
1 x JL Audio 5.5" XR525 Co-Axial (for center channel - I'll get it in there )
1 x Boston Acoustics G510 10" subwoofer

So here's my problem. I ordered the two JL Audio amps from eBay, but I ordered a 300/4 and an e2150 (2-channel). They sent me an e4300 by mistake. So now I am going to have to bridge a couple channels to be able to take advantage of the extra power I have.

So my options are:

1. Bridge 300/4, pass 150W to each of the Z6s
Use 2 of the e4300 channels for the Pro60s and 1 of the e4300 for the XR525
Bridge the GT22 for the sub

2. Bridge the e4300, pass 90W to each of the Z6s
Use 2 of the 300/4 channels for the Pro60s and 1 of the 300/4 for the center
Bridge the GT22 for the sub

Any other combination possible... I think I'll use the GT22 for the sub though cuz it has enough power and I'm putting Boston with Boston.

Any comments, suggestions, help would be very appreciated. Thanks guys.

Rob

phipark

Well, if you were trying to accomplish a true 5.1 system, then #2 would be ideal.

However, my choice would be #1 and ditch the rear and center channels for imaging.

Frink

When you're dealing with the horrible acoustics of a car, a center channel will greatly improve imaging. Using time correction and balance can only do so much. As far as the rears go, you do not have to use them unless you want a 5.1 system for DVD or DVD-Audio. I would include them w/ a low pass filter so you have a little more mid bass from the rear and then put them to a flat response for DVD. All in all, very nice system

StanMan

looking at rms values for the speakers
- front z6 handles 400w (not sure if rms)
- center xr525 handles 60w rms
- rear pro60 handles 125w rms
- sub g510 handles 450w rms (is this svc or dvc???)

the most interesting discovery is the potential of the e4300 to output more power, in general and over the 300/4, if the system voltage is kept higher than 14.5v.

if possible
- run fronts on the e4300 bridged to output 220Wx2
- run center and rear on 3 channels of the 300/4 (75W each)
- run sub on gt22 (275W vs. 390)

if not likely to maintain 14.5v
- run fronts on the e4300 bridged (150Wx2)
- run center and rear on 300/4 (75W each)
- run sub on gt22
~> you could switch the 4 ch amps around, but you would only get 45W to center and rear while fronts are unchanged

zax123

StanMan, I'm tending more towards your suggestion. The only thing I feel about it is that the 300/4 is a better amp and I'll be missing out on using its awesomeness in my front channel. I'm sure the e4300 is still a great amp, but I don't have enough experience with all this equipment to know exactly what to do...

I'm not sure what svc or dvc is though... you asked about the sub up there. I have the 2ohm version of the sub, so my GT22 can output 400W at that level which should be awesome for the sub.

Oh and just wanted to add that I'm keeping the stock head unit in my 3G TL so I do have DVD-Audio and have a few DVD-Audio discs that play in 5.1, so I'd like to keep true 5.1 as much as possible.

StanMan

i agree too. how about the following then?
- bridge the 300/4 down to 2 channels to power the fronts with 150W each
- bridge two channels of the e4300 to power the center with 150W (12.5v)
- run the other two channels of the e4300 in stereo to power the rears with 45W each (12.5v)
- run the sub off the gt22

that should be good for rears as they are just for fill and main role is for the 5.1 anyways.

StanMan

svc and dvc is the number of VoiceCoils on the sub - Single or Dual. according to BA, the voicecoil is only rated as 4 ohms. since you mentioned you got the one that is 2 ohms, you probably have the DVC sub because you only have one sub.

StanMan

[QUOTE=StanMan]
- bridge two channels of the e4300 to power the center with 150W (12.5v)
QUOTE]

i couldn't edit so disregard the above as the center can only handle 60W. you will leave one channel unused on the e4300 and run the center and rears at 45W each then.

zax123

Hey Stan,

Yeah, I realized that the XR525 can only handle 60 watts. I think 45W will be plenty in any case. I've read reviews saying that the e4300 puts out more that 45W per channel, so maybe that's true.

I'm doing exactly what you suggested. I've started building the sub-floor and started running some of the wires. Going to be a BIG project.

Here's a question I had. I have 4 gauge power cable. I was thinking of running two 4 gauge leads from the battery. One with an 80A fuse for two amps and the other with a 40A fuse. I bought a 1F capacitor. Should I run both leads into the capacitor and then both out again, or should I run only the 80A lead into the capacitor and leave the 40A lead "un-capicatored"? I feel like running both and in and out would defeat the purpose of having two leads but a local installer told me to do it that way... what do you think?

StanMan

i think it's better if you get a (fused?) distribution block for splitting your power cable and not run two leads from the battery; something like one 4g in, two or three 4g out. as for the cap, which amp(s) are you trying to buffer? if you place the cap before the dblock, you'll buffer all amps. if you wanted to buffer both 4 channels, you can get a 2-way block, double up on one lead for the 4 channels and then split off the cap to them. if you want to buffer just the sub amp, install between block and sub amp.

StanMan

forgot to ask, will your amps accept 4g inputs? if not, you'll definitely need a block (now 4g in, 8g out) or get cable terminals called reducers to transform 4g to 8g. btw, getting a block that can directly accept the wire ends will cut down on costs because you will not need to buy ring terminals.

zax123

yeah all 3 amps accept 4G inputs. I think I'll buffer the sub and 300/4 amp. The e4300 is only using 3 channels and is only a total of 135W. So I was thinking I would run 2 4Gs from the battery. One for the e4300 with 40A fuse and one for the other two. The one that goes to the other two, go to cap first, then to a 4G => 2 x 4G distro block that I have. From there to the two amps. What do you think?

StanMan

so you already have a 2-way distribution block? if so, i would run one 4g feed from the battery to this block. from the block, one feed goes directly to the e4300. the other connects to the cap first and then splits to the 300/4 and gt22. not only will it be easier to run one main wire as well as needing only one firewall opening, you'll save some money too! this works if your amps are all fused internally. if not, the block that splits to the 300/4 and gt22 should be fused! instead....4g from battery to the FIRST 2-way block (needs to be fused if e4300 is not); one direct feed to e4300 and the other to the cap which will then connect to the SECOND (fused) 2-way block and finally the 300/4 and gt22.

zax123

hehe. Before getting your message, I ran the power lineS from the engine compartment. I ran two. One for the e4300 (fused at 40A at the battery), and one for the other two (fused at 80A at the battery). The second one will go to the cap and then a distro block and split to the GT22 and 300/4. I could use just one of them, but I kinda cringe at running potentially 120A on one 4G. I know it's rated for 150A but...

Thank you so much for all your help!

StanMan

np. cool, that works too. add some pix if you get a chance.